Areópoli “City Of Ares”… Mani Region, Peloponnese

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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Friday, 29 July 2022… Left Pirgaki Studios in Kardamýli around 07.00 hours to go wait for the 06.15 hours bus heading south from Kalamata. When it arrived at 07.25, I was informed it would take me to Agíos Nikón, not Oítylo, a little closer to my destination. Then, 15 minutes into my ride, I was told to get off in Stoúpa and take another bus a couple of minutes away. That bus duly arrived 10 minutes later, empty, however, it did deliver me to Agios Nikón around 08.25 hours… phew!

Until I arrived in Agíos Nikón I had no idea that it is only a tiny mountain village… no taxis and no buses to Areópoli. Only one thing to do… hitchhike. A very nice lady supplied me with paper on which to write “OÍTYLO” “AREÓPOLI” “Parakalo” (Please). Fortunately, it was my lucky day. The second car to pass by did a turn around, bringing me all the way, even driving through the narrow cobblestone alleyways of Areópoli wanting to take me to my accommodation. That didn’t quite work out, however, I had less than 300m to walk to Aróma Avlís Apartment (Perfumed Courtyard). At E129.60 for 2 nights (NZ$105 per night) it is the most expensive accommodation of my travels, however, it is worth the extra… very traditional and comfortable.

The lovely couple who picked me up this morning were Christina (Greek) and Giuliano (Italian). They live near Milan, however, are currently holidaying in Greece, staying in Stoúpa and today, their last day, decided to drive back to a beach south of Areópoli, they first visited on Monday. Such an awesome couple, I cannot thank them enough for their kindness.

Dropped off my luggage at the apartment and went to have my first look around Areópoli since the 1970’s. It was and still is one of the most beautiful and colourful small towns in Greece. In the evening I ate at Spáka by Plateia Athanaton, strolled down lively Kapetan Matapa Street, the main road of the old town, finishing up eating a tub of pistachio icecream in the Square.

Saturday, 30 July 2022… This morning a visit to the local weekly Laïkí (Farmers Market) was, as always, delightful. Couldn’t resist returning to the same Bakery as yesterday for another Hortópita (Greens Pie) before checking out Kastro Mavromichalis, then visiting the nearby Pyrgos Pikoulaki Museum where the exhibition is called “Stories of the Religious Faith of Mani”.

When I arrived yesterday, my host Grigórios recommended Kozouni near Plateia Athanaton… he said it’s where the locals go for homestyle cooking when they don’t feel like cooking at home. Kozouni is only open from 12.00 – 18.00 hours and yesterday I left it too late to go. However, today I got a takeaway from there and really enjoyed it.

Tomorrow I move on… 08.30 hours bus to Gytheio where I’ll spend some 10 hours before catching Seajets ferry boat “Aqua Jewell” to the island of Kythira, my last stop before Crete.

Spectacular Taxiarchon Church
Roadside in the mountain village of Agíos Nikón
Aróma Avlís Apartment
Aróma Avlís Apartment
Aróma Avlís Apartment… have to remember to duck my head!
Aróma Avlís Apartment
Aróma Avlís Apartment
Aróma Avlís Apartment
Garden… Aróma Avlís Apartment
Hermes… resident at Aróma Avlís together with Grigórios and 4 cats
Statue of local hero Petrobeis Mavromichalis who raised the first revolution flag during the Greek War of Independence against the Ottoman Empire in 1821
Marking the point where the Revolution Flag was raised on 17 March 1821
Bakery… Areópoli where I bought the most delicious Hortópita (Greens Pie) for brunch
Taxiarchon Church
Taxiarchon Church
5-storied bell tower… Taxiarchon Church
Note the beautiful crochet curtains
Wall fresco… small church on the main square… Areópoli
Main Square… Areópoli
Main Square… Areópoli
Areópoli architecture
Tsimova Rooms
Bukka Home Bar
Small church… Areópoli
Even the local hospital in Areópoli looks the part
In the evening, delighted to find the door of Taxiarchon Church open
Kapetan Matapa Street… Areópoli
Kapetan Matapa Street… Areópoli
Kapetan Matapa Street…Areópoli
Cliba8 Cocktail Bar
Taxiarchon Church and Tower
Outside Bukka Home Bar… Kapetan Matapa Street, Areópoli
Kapetan Matapa Street, Areópoli
Greengrocer… Kapetan Matapa Street
Laïkí (Farmers Market) Areópoli
Laïkî (Farmers Market) Areópoli
The young woman told me her family make everything they sell
Olives Olives Olives
Vlýta… delicious cooked and served with olive oil and lemon
Laïkí (Farmers Market) Areópoli
Kastro Mavromichalis
Kastro Mavromichalis
Kastro Mavromichalis
Areópoli
Areópoli
Pyrgos Pikoulaki Museum
Marble templon 12th century
St. John the Baptist detached wall painting. Late 13th, early 14th century
St. John the Baptist despotic icon from a templon. Late 18th century
Wood-carved processional cross. 2nd half of the 19th century.
Wood-carved cross

2 Comments

  1. Comment by Jean:

    The Intrepid Traveller soldiers on…no transport let’s hitch hike! Thanks Helen once again for a virtual visit around amazing places. XO

  2. Comment by Helen Grubner:

    Jean, you are very welcome! I arrived last night on Kythira… another challenging day yesterday. Blog to follow. XO

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