Itisallgreek2me

Sunday, 10 July 2022… Ever since reading ‘The Stars Over Paxos’ by John Gill, I’ve wanted to come to Paxos. I had to check out of my room in Parga by 11.00 hours so spent the best part of 3 hours having one last final look around before taking a taxi with Labros back to Igoumenitsa.

It was a nice feeling being back on a ferry boat, heading for yet another Greek island… this time Paxos. After some confusion my pre-booked taxi eventually arrived to take me to Lakka. Driven by a young woman, part of the family business, she drove like a rally driver along the narrow, windy island roads, even managing a phone call… these Hellenes are fearless. Not quite sure how but I seem to have scored the best room view wise at Vasiliki Apartments… worth all the steps to get to the 4th floor.

Located at the northern most end of the island, I took an early evening orientation walk around the village. First impressions… although a calm and relaxing environment prevails, it appears to cater mainly to the well heeled with prices to match. Whereas on Chalki, for example, I sat and watched the little fishing boats bobbing about in the harbour… in Lakka it’s a line of speed boats for hire.

Unfortunately, a much needed good night’s sleep eluded me as music blared up from down in the village until 02.30 hours and it wasn’t even my style of Greek music… grrr!

Monday, 11 July 2022… Not feeling much like rushing out early this morning, I made it in time to take the 11.00 hours bus to Gaios, the capital and main settlement of Paxos. While the majority of people seemed to be heading to a beach, I set out to walk to the Tripitos Arch (also known as Kamara). A natural rock arch which is actually part of a collapsed sea wall. You can walk across the top of it, but… not this girl!

Taking the mainly uphill road out of Gaios to Ozias, from there the route becomes less obvious, as first you walk along minor roads, eventually leading to a rocky path between stone walls and finally down a steep incline then, WOW… you see the breathtaking view! Few people get to see it from above as the majority prefer to take an organized boat trip, but… yuk, not my style of travel. With music blasting on board, on one boat today it was Michael Jackson’ ‘Billie Jean’.

Returned to Gaios at a snail’s pace, where I found a quiet Taverna away from all the hullabaloo to have lunch and wait for the 17.30 hours bus back to Lakka. Staying put tonight… so far, no repeat of last night’s music.

Friday, 8 July 2022… With the weather forecast predicting slightly cooler temperatures, partly cloudy skies and possible thunderstorms, today seemed to be the ideal day for getting out walking and visiting the Ali Pasha Castle.

The Ali Pasha Castle or Castle of Anthoussa was built by Ali Pasha, the Turkish governor of Ioannina, in 1814, above the picture perfect village of Anthoussa. Overlooking the entire bay of Parga, the walls of the Castle are still preserved and the views are impressive.

With Studios Spiros Parga located near the upper main road, it made perfect sense to head off that way this morning. Eventually arriving in Anthoussa, I enquired there as to the best route to take up the hill and chose the path over the road access.

By the time I made it to the top, it appeared that the forecast could well be correct as the skies darkened and scattered rain drops fell. Thinking it may well set in, I rushed to take whatever photos I could before making my way back down to Anthoussa, ending up at Cafe Bar Neon for another of those well earned cold beers.

Up at the Castle I had struck up a conversation with Ashley from the UK and whilst I was sitting at Cafe Bar Neon, Ashley and Lee arrived back in the village and also came for the same reason to Neon. Nikos, the very entertaining and most delightful owner of the place, made us all feel so welcome and it was such an enjoyable part of the day. Nikos’ cat “Bouncer” took a real shine to me too and the entire village had such a lovely feeling.

With plenty of time on my side, I decided to take the lower road back to Parga. So pleased that I did as the walk was spectacular… past the old watermill, giant olive trees, in fact, a sea of green. Stopped at Infinity on Valtos beach for a Greek Salad. By the time I reached my accommodation, I had clocked up around 10km for the day… many of those you could say had a moderate level of difficulty.

Saturday, 9 July 2022… Without a shadow of a doubt, today has been my quietest in 6 weeks. I’m still battling to sort out the changes to my travel plans either end of my Emirates flights home… a real pain in the proverbial.

Unfortunately, with the no buses on weekends scenario here, nothing else has turned up to get me back to Igoumenitsa tomorrow so the E55 taxi is booked. I can only do what one must do and by tomorrow evening, I should be settled into my apartment on the island of Paxos.

Thursday, 7 July 2022… The only passenger to board the 06.00 hours bus in Igoumenitsa, going to Parga, was me, although we zigzagged off the main road from time to time and picked up the odd passenger here and there. Grateful to be met at the bus station by my host Spiros, who took care of my luggage until later in the day.

Uppermost in my mind before leaving Igoumenitsa was that there are no buses between the two places on weekends and I need to return to Igoumenitsa on Sunday in order to catch my ferry to Paxos. The thought had crossed my mind that perhaps I could go to Paxos on one of the daily excursion boats from Parga? However, after going down to the pier this morning and talking to one of the captains, I now know it’s not possible, in fact, it’s forbidden… every passenger they take they must return. So, short of a miracle, it will be a E55 taxi ride on Sunday.

Enjoyed strolling about the town (clocked up more than 8km today) while the majority of the tourists were still sleeping off last night’s escapades, ending up at Valtos beach. Located in the bay on the other side of the Venetian Castle, I enquired about the cost of a sunbed and umbrella. They wanted E10… it’s a set he said, 2 sunbeds and an umbrella, no allowance for a sole traveller. Oh well, planted my towel on the pebbles at the far end of the beach and spent 3-4 hours in my own little paradise.

Spoke to a lady I noticed walking along the shoreline, picking up some things off the beach. Her name was Birgitta, she is from Denmark and since she was a little girl, she has collected pieces of glass off beaches all over the world. Birgitta told me how therapeutic she finds this hobby so I tried it today and you know what, Birgitta was right. Walking along the shoreline, having the occasional dip and searching for these little gems… any stresses and worries soon disappeared.

After making my way slowly back up the hill, I visited the Venetian Castle which had been closed earlier in the day, before checking into my studio apartment. The harbour was heaving tonight when I went down for something to eat and drink… I guess they all have to holiday somewhere.

Tomorrow’s weather forecast isn’t looking too great… partly cloudy and possible thunderstorms in the afternoon. It could be a perfect day for walking to Anthoussa and up to the Ali Pasha Castle.

Tuesday, 5 July 2022… In order to get from Litochoro to Igoumenitsa, I had first to travel back to Thessaloniki. Left Litochoro at 07.25 hours, catching my second bus from Katerini at 08.00 hours, arriving in Thessaloniki just in time to catch my third bus of the day to Ioannina at 09.00 hours. Made it with a minute to spare, thereby avoiding a 3 and a half hour wait for the next bus.

The Egnatia Odos Motorway, built at an estimated cost of E6.77bn, is quite simply a miraculous feat of civil engineering. Stretching across Northern Greece from the Turkish border in the east to Igoumenitsa in the west, 50% of that cost was spent on 90km of bridges and tunnels, the longest tunnel being 4.7km. There are countless numbers of these twin-bore tunnels, most of them in the Pindus Mountain range.

On leaving Thessaloniki, at first the journey takes you along plains where various crops and fruit orchards flourish. From Veroia, the climbing begins in earnest and it is not long before you are passing by fields of sunflowers growing on a plateau and the Amyntaio Power Plant. Forested with oak, fir, beech and pine and home to the endangered brown bear, the Pindus Mountain range is nothing short of spectacular.

A bit over an hour’s wait in Ioannina then on to the fourth and final bus of the day… departed at 14.15 hours, arrived in Igoumenitsa around 15.45 hours. Four buses – 422km – cost E46.30.

I was surprised to find that I could hop off the bus at the Port, right opposite my accommodation at Oscar Hotel. After a warm welcome, I settled into my air-conditioned room with a balcony and a view. Home for the next 2 nights… I’m not too bothered about the 36°C temperature outside.

However, what I am bothered about is the lack of buses in this part of Greece and as I have just found out today, that is going to seriously affect my plans over the next 10 days. Buggar… I have some work to do rearranging my itinerary.

Wednesday, 6 July 2022… the reason for my 2 night stay in Igoumenitsa was to make a day trip today to Lia, a tiny village near the Albanian border and scene of atrocities in the Greek Civil War in the 1940’s. Nicholas Gage wrote a very moving book ‘Eleni’ … a true story about his mother who was tortured and murdered there. Her last words to Nick were to leave for America and never return to Greece. However, decades later as an investigative journalist, he did return to seek out those responsible for his mother’s death.

Anyway, as I discovered yesterday, there is only one bus a week to Lia and that leaves Igoumenitsa at 05.00 hours on a Thursday, returning 15.00 hours. Of absolutely no use to me as in the morning I leave for Parga.

It is even hotter out there today than yesterday so I have mostly stayed in my room. Ventured out early to buy things to sustain me through the day as I worked through making changes to my plans. Included in those changes is an extra night back in Igoumenitsa next week so that I will be visiting Lia on Thursday 14th… yay! Other changes to plans will surface as the days roll on.

Sunday, 3 July 2022… The heat index here is somewhere between OMG and WTF so I am taking the opportunity to rest up for a couple of days in my lovely apartment, accepting that the walks I had hoped to do won’t be happening this time.

Meandered down to the centre of town late morning and finally managed to get some decent pics of the mountain. Sat for sometime at a table at Spitaki enjoying a cold beer. A number of the ultra endurance runners were out and about… like me, relaxing, recharging and reflecting. When the 32 hour time limit for the race was up at 04.00 hours this morning, 82 runners had completed the race, 2 more crossed the finish line within minutes after the deadline and 31 did not finish in the time. However, they all showed incredible strength of mind and body and in my opinion, no one failed.

Monday, 4 July 2022… Another scorcher, however, it was of necessity that I venture out to obtain information about bus timetables for tomorrow. The annoying thing here in Greece is that although all bus companies operate under the umbrella of KTEL, each area is a separate company and if like me tomorrow, you want to travel from A to B to C to D, A can only tell you the timetable from there to B.

So, I have had to do my own research online. Tomorrow I will catch the first bus at 07.25 hours to Thessaloniki via Katerini. If I make it in time to catch the 09.00 hours bus from Thessaloniki to Ioannina, then I will make my final destination Igouminitsa around 16.45 hours. Otherwise, it will be more like 20.45 hours… rather a long day.

Came out of the bus company office and noticed a street market across the road… always like a good street market me. Bought pastries from a nearby bakery, cooled down eating my Spanakopita (spinach pie) in the Municipal Park, returned to my apartment, having to venture out again to buy a pen when my one and only ran out… buggar!

Much of the remainder of the day, I have spent endeavouring to amend two flight bookings. You see, Emirates have changed my itinerary… now leaving Athens for Dubai 24 hours later than originally booked which takes me out to my maximum 90 days allowed in Greece. My travel broker has sorted the ongoing Dubai/Auckland flight, however, I have to deal with my Chania/Athens flight with Sky Express and Auckland/Palmerston North flight with Air NZ. It’s all proving to be a headache but I’ll get there.

Topped off my stay in Litochoro with a return visit this evening to Meze Meze restaurant. Remembering the delicious Pumpkin Risotto I had there 3 years’ ago, I had the same again and wasn’t disappointed.

Saturday, 2 July 2022… Left my apartment this morning to walk to Myloi, a little bit of retracing my steps from 3 years’ ago. Met up again with Grigori, the Park Warden who reminded me of how much he loves Olympus, before taking the easy, well constructed path to the waterfall and return.

Briefly considered walking part of the E4 trail, however, good sense prevailed… not wise in this heat. I had hoped to walk the upper part of the E4 from Prionia to Agio Spilaio and the Agios Dionysios Monastery but the 2 Euro each way shuttle bus to Prionia isn’t running and I couldn’t justify E50 for a taxi to get me there and back.

Decided to take a path down to the Enipeas River Canyon and return to Litochoro that way… thinking speed doesn’t matter, forward is forward. When I reached the bottom, the bridge I was expecting to see did not exist, only rocks with blue and red painted dots. Removed my shoes and socks to cross to the other side, returning to Lakkos and Spitaki for a large Amstel, club sandwich and wedges.

Today I followed live online the progress of the runners in the Olympus Mythical Trail race. Incredibly, the first runner home, a Greek, ran the 101km in 17h22m18s. The first female runner home, in overall 11th position, ran the race in 21h18m30s. Ali (Alistair Watson) the English guy I talked to yesterday, put in an amazing performance, coming home 10th in 21h18m.

I don’t know how they do it… I walked around 6km today and was exhausted. I’ve never experienced the kind of heat that we are having here now. I wonder… what will it be like in August.

Friday, 1 July 2022… An early start this morning from Thessaloniki… it was already 26°C when I walked the 1.5km to the Train Station. Caught the 08.15 hours train to Litochoro… the nearest town to Mt Olympus National Park and the home of the Greek Gods. No chance to capture images on the relatively fast one hour journey, however, I couldn’t stop marvelling at the fields of sunflowers and kiwifruit orchards.

Exited the train expecting to see taxis, waiting to ferry me the 7km or so to Litochoro but no one there. Fortunately, my host Kostas had given me the number for Dimitris, a local taxi driver who, when I called, was more than happy to come and collect me. Fare E10… can’t complain at that.

Met Kostas, left my luggage and established that he would message me when my apartment was ready around 12.30 hours. Walked down to the Enipeas River for a late breakfast at Spitaki, where I spent time during a one week stay in 2019. Today I showed the waiting staff a photo of me with a moggy I befriended there 3 years’ ago and asked if they recognized it and was it still living? Oh yes, although I didn’t see her today, she’s still about and her name is Margarita.

After breakfast I walked on to look for a path by the river I loved so much 3 years’ ago and very quickly I realized there was some event soon to take place. During a lengthy conversation with Ali (Alistair Watson) from London, I learnt that tonight at 20.00 hours, the Olympus Mythical Trail race, an ultra endurance mountain running race, held on the first weekend of July, will be starting and finishing from that location. Ali is taking part… a maximum of 200 athletes are eligible to participate after meeting very strict criteria.

The route is 101km long, designed mainly on a combination of paths of varying passability but also mountain dirt roads and the positive altitude reaches 6960m. The time limit is 32 hours. I have total admiration for all the athletes taking part. If you are interested in finding out more go to www.omt100.com

After spending a relaxing afternoon in my lovely apartment, I sat on my balcony with a plate of meze and a glass of wine… complimentary bottle in the fridge. This evening wandered down to witness the start of the big race, however, the almost unbearable heat of earlier today continues and the great Mt Olympus has been shrouded in cloud for much of the day.

I have come here with hopes of doing some lovely walks. If the weather gets any hotter, I don’t think I’ll be able to do it.

Thursday, 30 June 2022… Before beginning today’s walk up to Ana Poli, I had first to visit a Vodafone store to Top Up my phone. That done, I headed for the Atatürk Museum, birthplace in 1881 of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, much loved and respected founder of modern Turkey. 🇹🇷 I knew I was almost there when I noticed a number of police near the Turkish Consulate… doing very little, other than drinking coffee.

To gain entry to the three floor dwelling and courtyard, painted it’s original pink colour, you must ring the bell and get permission to enter. The large heavy door will be opened, you sign in and entry is free. Having spent a total of 3 months in Turkey 2019/20 and understanding how much Atatürk means to the Turkish people, I found my visit today very moving.

With the temperature soaring to around 35°C, the walk up to the Tower of Trigoniou was no mean feat. Built at the end of the 15th century, it is the Byzantine city walls most famous tower and today Mt Olympus could be seen in the distance. Entry costs E6, or E3 if you are from the EU and the same ticket will get you into the Heptapyrgion fortress.

Situated on the north eastern corner of the acropolis of Thessaloniki, the Heptapyrgion has towered over the city for more than 1,000 years. In the late 19th century it was converted into a prison which remained open until 1989. Viewing those tiny cells today… not a nice feeling.

Ana Poli was one of the only historic neighbourhoods to survive the Great Fire of 1917. Today I made my way slowly, down through it’s narrow winding streets lined with traditional houses… now relieved to be back in my air conditioned room. Tomorrow at 08.15 hours, I take a train to Litochoro.

Wednesday, 29 June 2022… Finally made it into bed this morning at 02.00 hours. Not certain, but I may have been ripped off by the taxi driver who bought me here. Normally I would ask first approximately how much but didn’t… E35 seemed a lot but nevermind.

My room isn’t anything to rave about really but the location couldn’t be better. With a balcony looking out over a large park and very very central. The first thing I heard this morning was the call to come buy bananas and cherries from a street vendor… E2.50 (NZ$4.20) for 4 lovely bananas and half a kilo of delicious cherries.

Managed to clock up 10km walking today in temperatures above 30°C. Went first to a bus station (wrong one for where I want to go) then to a train station and now have my ticket to travel to Litochoro on Friday by train.

I had a few places in mind that I hoped to see in Thessaloniki, however, I found a multitude of interesting things to look at today. Almost opposite my room is the beautiful Church of Panagia Chalkeon. A little further on the statue of Eleftherios Venezelos with a pigeon sitting on his head. Bey Haman… a Turkish Bathhouse, alternatively known as the Baths of Paradise. The ruins of a monumental marble fountain, probably built in the 4th century AD.

One of the main attractions in Thessaloniki is the Roman Arch of Galerius. Not far away, the Rotunda and Minaret… added during the Ottoman occupation. The archeological site of Caesar Galerius’ Palace. The White Tower and near the Beach Promenade just beyond, the Alexander the Great Monument and the Umbrellas Zongopoulos.

Walking back, I eventually came to Aristotelous Square and the Statue of Aristotle. I wandered through the Kaponi Market then passed by the Roman Agora on my way to the Church of St. Demetrius.

Tonight around 20.00 hours, I watched over my balcony as a large group of protesters went by on the street below. It has certainly been a very full and satisfying day.

Monday, 27 June 2022… My week on Chalki will soon be over as tomorrow my journey takes me North. As there is no beach in my schedule for the next 10 days, today I just had to spend at Ftenagia. Met up with Curly and Mandy around 10’ish for the walk over, staying at the beach most of the day. Dips in the sea and strong wind gusts made the heat more bearable and naturally, a break for lunch and cold beers in the Taverna.

Being my last night on Chalki, had to go out for dinner. I enjoyed the most delicious Moussaká at Valantis Restaurant before moving on to Apostolis Cafe Bar to meet up with Curly and Mandy. In due course, they arrived, then Mandy invited Linda who was sitting alone at the next establishment, to join us. A lovely farewell to Chalki for now… made it into bed at 01.30 hours.

When we have the courage to get out there and live our lives, we never know what to expect around the next corner. A chance meeting last Wednesday with Curly and Mandy has, I hope, led to a lifelong friendship. Thanks you two for sharing and making memories together.

Tuesday, 28 June 2022… Moved out of my home of the past week around 11.00 hours with time to kill until the departure of Dodekanisos Pride at 14.10 hours. Sat at Apostolis and had something to eat and drink, watching for the last time, the little boats bobbing about in the harbour. ETA Rhodes 15.25 hours… had planned to catch a bus to the airport. However, to cut a long and complicated story short, shared a taxi with an Italian couple, paying half the fare.

More time to kill until departure Sky Express 20.20 hours for Thessaloniki, via Athens, ETA 23.48 hours. Security at Rhodes Airport had a wonderful time taking everything out of my well packed day pack, then scanning it all for a second time… grrr! However, a mass display of Metaxa in duty free was to warm my heart soon after.

Finally boarded just as the sun was going down, however, late departure from Rhodes had me wondering… would I make my connecting flight to Thessaloniki?

I’ve made it in time… now waiting for boarding at Gate B22 in Athens. Hopefully taxi to my accommodation will all go to plan… phew! All this after a late night/early morning and a fair amount of imbibing yesterday.