Easter Weekend in Greece

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By Helen Grubner | Filed in Uncategorized | 2 comments

Saturday 4 May-Monday 6 May 2024

IMPORTANT NOTE: CURRENTLY ONLY 2 PAGES ON MY WEBSITE ARE SHOWING CONTENT… Home Page and Blog. I’m endeavoring to resolve the issue with WordPress. Grrr 😡

Due to fatigue, a slow start to the day Saturday. I have no doubt the previous few days travelling had caught up with me. It was late morning before I made my way back along the beachfront and up to the family home.

When Vasilis’ mate Odysséas arrived, a pre lunch aperitif of Tsikoudia was called for. A distilled clear spirit containing 40% to 65% alcohol by volume and made from what remains of grapes pressed in wine making, Tsikoudia is reputed to be medicinal when consumed in small quantities.

Katina’s cooking is second to none and I always relish every mouthful consumed at the family table, of course, accompanied by a glass of red wine. Boureki… Greek Vege Pie with a wonderful salad, it’s not uncommon for me to forget when I have had ample sufficiency.

Took a sleeping tablet and retired early that night. Apparently, it rained heavily, but I heard nothing. Easter Sunday morning and the weather left much to be desired… 18°C but it felt much cooler. Fortunately, it did clear later in the day. I have spent many an Easter in Greece and this year, understandably, has been by far the quietest. No crowd of extended family and friends around the table… only Katina, Kostoúla, her sister Johanna, husband Antonis and me. I expect the scene at Vanna and Roma’s would have been more lively, however, almost everyone had left by the time I arrived there late afternoon. Another early night for me.

This morning, I left Revekka Rooms around 0900 hours to walk to the Bus Station, via a bakery. Caught the 1000 hours bus to Elafonissi… a beautiful world renowned beach with pink sand located in the south western corner of Crete. The ride there through stunning mountains, dotted with small villages, reminded me of why I love this island with a great deal of passion. But for the wind and the crowds, a perfect excursion. On the 1600 hours bus returning to Kastéli, I sat next to Carolina, a lovely woman from Canada with whom I had much in common and we chatted all the way. When we arrived back in Kastéli, the very obliging bus driver was happy to let me off near the family home. Later this evening I will make the 15 minute walk back to my comfortable room at Revekka, thus ending a very satisfying day.

Elafoníssi
Spanakópita… spinach and cheese pie
Pink sand
View towards south western coast, Crete
Mountain village between Kastéli and Elafoníssi
View towards Rodopou, east of Kastéli
Tzanakaki Square, Kastéli
Archeological Museum of Kastéli
Kostoúla in charge
Lamb chops… Easter Sunday
Yummy cake from Chania
Katina’s yummy sweet
Katina and Johanna with Pascáli and Zíta 
Pascáli
Parapódi
Kostoúla’s daughter Katerína
1 of 3 outside dogs at the family home
Animal Farm
Rabbit hutch. Cockerel with his hen
Egg producers
Bouréki… Greek Vege Pie and Salad
Mealtime in the Apothíki… storeroom
Leon

My Return to Kastéli and the Family

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By Helen Grubner | Filed in Uncategorized | 2 comments

Thursday 2 May-Friday 3 May 2024

I oniy had a short stay in Athens, mainly to recover a little after my journey from New Zealand. Yesterday, up early and out by 0800 hours to walk back to Kerameikos Station and take the Metro to the Port of Piraeus.

I’m not sure when or why, after years of flying from Athens to Crete, I decided this time to take a ferry. Anek Lines the ELYROS… massive boat and fully booked like all ferries during Greek Easter. The scheduled 1000 hours departure from Gate E3 became 1100 hours and the 1800 hours arrival more like 1900 hours. Greeks love to talk and of course, they were feeling excited about returning home to their beloved Crete for Easter celebrations with families. The occasional scrap between dogs added to the noise levels. Nothing else to do on the economy deck but people watch, play on my phone like everyone does these days and from time to time, move out into the sun to warm up.

Our late arrival in Chania meant that by the time I took a bus into the city and walked from the drop off point to Xtel Bus Station, I had missed the 1900 hours bus to Kastéli. The next bus and last one for the day was at 2130 hours. My host had messaged to say my key would be left in a flowerpot at Revekka Rooms, their sister hotel opposite Kissamia Rooms, the hotel I had booked. Retrieved the key no problem, however, confusion reigned when I discovered my hotel wasn’t ready for occupation. A group of, I assumed to be Albanian workers, barbecuing on the street, got involved. A call was made and only when Chrissa came did I discover that Costas had omitted to tell me I would be staying in Revekka, their sister hotel. But, Costas did message me earlier saying he would upgrade me to a bigger room for free… nice one and had said “You are not a tourist but a friend of Crete” 🥰

Good Friday in Greece and the supermarket opened at 1100 hours, enabling me to buy a few provisions. In more than 40 years, this is the first time I haven’t stayed in the family home. Before leaving NZ, I learned that the family matriarch Anna, in her 104th year now, sadly is bedridden. Therefore, I felt it best that I find alternative accommodation.

Around midday, I walked along the beachfront and up to the family home, a walk which will be repeated many times over the next 12 days when I will go to see Anna and spend time with my family.

I’ve not long arrived back at my lodgings from Roma and Vanna’s (Anna’s eldest granddaughter) where I got to catchup with another branch of the family. All in all, a day to remember.

On my balcony
ELYROS
Journey from Piraeus to Chania, Crete
View from my balcony
Revekka Rooms… my home for 13 nights
Church opposite Revekka
Kastéli beachfront
View of Gramvoussa from Kastéli
View of Rodopou from Kastéli
With Yani’s youngest… 6 year old Orestes
New mum… the cat, not me 🤣
The other new mum with her babies
Anna’s granddaughter Kostoúla
Countless budgerigars
Grouse… there are a pair in the budgerigar enclosure
Yani teaching 10 year old son Yani how to peel a prawn
Brothers Yani and Orestes
Potted colour at the family home
Family home, Kastéli
Cool vibes in Kastéli
Roma and Vanna
Metó (great great granddaughter of Anna’s)

Protomagia… May Day, Workers Day in Athens

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Tuesday 30 April-Wednesday 1 May 2024… I don’t ever remember landing in Athens under such an overcast sky, as was the case yesterday. Caught the Metro from the Airport to Kerameikos Station, walking the last 650m to my apartment in Thiseio. It had been 40 hours since leaving my home in New Zealand… I was totally exhausted but relieved.

Slept fitfuĺly last night, however, wanted to make the most of a full day in Athens so up and out early. I know the city here reasonably well and love to wander. Headed first for Monasteráki then on to Syntagma Square. Made my way down almost to Omonia Square before returning to Syntagma and on to the Plaka and Anafiótika… a tiny area on the slopes of the Acropolis. Settled by people from the cycladic island of Anafi in the 1800’s, it is located in a metropolis but with the feel and look of a Greek island.

On the 1st of May in Greece, it is traditional to pick wildflowers and make them into a wreath to hang on your door. It is also a public holiday but with public sector employees striking throughout Greece and protests along with demonstrations planned in the capital, the police presence was very noticeable today.

As is customary in Greece, I returned to my apartment for an afternoon siesta, venturing out again around 1900 hours for dinner. After walking a mere 600m, I found Senso where I enjoyed Yemistá (stuffed vegetables)  a red wine and a great view of the Acropolis.

Monasteráki Square
Kouloúria… Greek Sesame Bagels
National Archeological Museum
Greek Parliament… the Old Royal Palace
Plaka
Plaka
Bougátsa… Greek Pastry filled with Semolina Custard
Plaka
Acropolis Hill
Anafiótika
Anafiótika
Mount Lykavittos
Church of Agios Georgios of the Rock
Anafiótika
Ancient Agora
Mount Lykavittos
The Acropolis
Very windy up on Areopagus Hill
🚿 in my apartment… took some figuring out
The view from my evening dining table
Yemistá

Last Days In Greece For Now

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Sunday-Wednesday, 21-24 August 2022… Relaxing Sunday at home with family, reminiscing over the joyous and happy time we all spent at the baptism the previous day and sharing a simple but oh so delicious lunch.

Monday Kostoúla dropped me off at Plaka beach where I met up with Vanna. Had my last swim for now, before lunch at their house, time with Odysséas and Metó, the sweetest children, then a lift back home with Roma.

I’m feeling somewhat anxious about my upcoming trip back to New Zealand. Never mind that Anna read my Greek coffee cup and could see a very clear road ahead and lots of money coming my way… haha 🤣 among other things.

Tuesday lunch… when asked, I requested my favourite meal of all – Yemistá (stuffed vegetables). I don’t even want to talk about how I felt farewelling Anna, Katina, Vasilis, Maria and Katerina who were all at the house when I left around 16.00 hours with Kostoúla who so very kindly drove me to Chania Airport. Light rain as we boarded the aircraft and a noticeable drop in temperature… preparing me for what lies ahead.

Stayed overnight near Athens Airport at Garden’s House in Spata. The cutest little accommodation setup you’ve ever seen… like a little cottage, very clean, comfortable and quiet – lovely! Costas, the owner of Garden’s House, picked me up last night from the Airport and today his wife Georgia returned me for a reasonable fee. Check out time was 11.30 hours, however, I was able to stay on until 14.00 hours.

Thunderstorms all around Athens… fortunately, made it into the terminal before the rain set in. With hours to kill and hunger pangs… first stop Flocafé for a Club Sandwich and a glass of wine.

At 23.00 hours I farewell Greece for now. What a ride it has been… I hope many of you have enjoyed sharing my journey.

With some of the clan at the baptism on Saturday.
Tuesday morning… Kastéli
Dear Anna… love her dearly ❤
Sunday lunch… Choriátiki Saláta, Patátes Tiganités, Keftathákia, Gavros
Odysséas with their goat and chickens (all named)
Metó with Bijou and kitten
Metó
Anna reading my Greek coffee cup
My Greek coffee cup
Yemistá… straight from the oven
Yemistá… with potato slices removed showing stuffed vine leaves and courgette flowers
Chania/Athens flight
Garden’s House, Spata… last night’s accommodation near Athens Airport
Garden’s House
Garden’s House courtyard

Den Ypárchoun Lógia… Words Don’t Exist

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Saturday, 20 August 2022… What fortunate timing to be on Crete for the baptism of brothers Michalis and Constantinos… sons of Chrissoúla’s daughter Xristiána, Anna’s granddaughter.

The Greek Orthodox baptism is a lengthy, beautiful ceremony, where the child, sponsored by a godparent, officially becomes a Christian. Much festivity surrounds this very important event, attended by family and friends of both the parents and godparents.

Following the baptism at the church, everyone heads to a venue to celebrate… sharing a meal, as well as music and dancing. For me it was a wonderful opportunity to catch up with many more family members in Chania… thanks to Kostoúla who picked up Katína and I from Kastéli and delivered us home safely around 02.00 hours.

Being a part of this family is a great privilege and not something I take for granted. I will be very sad to leave them on Tuesday… I don’t know what else to say.

With Anna’s daughters Chrissoúla, Kiki and daughter-in-law Katína
Baptism of brothers Michalis and Constantinos
Chrissoúla with grandson Michalis
Xristiána with her son Michalis
Chrissoúla with daughter-in-law Ariána
Chrissoúla with granddaughters Chrýsa and Anni
Michális
With Kostoúla
Yani and Maria
Veronica and Ariána
Xserotígana… a traditional Cretan wedding and baptism sweet
Family table at the celebratory feast
Yani and Maria with sons Ioánni and Orésti
Traditional dancing at the feast following the baptism
Ioánna with her nephew Orésti
Maria and Yani

The Week That Was In Kastéli Kissámou

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By Helen Grubner | Filed in Uncategorized | 2 comments

Monday-Friday, 15-19 August 2022… Many days this little house with a big heart is full, inside and out, with family, friends, dogs and cats. Greeks tend to talk a lot and all at the same time… it can be difficult for me to get a word in edgeways. After a meal (and they seem to be never ending) I quite like escaping to the kitchen sink. The more dishes there are to clean, the happier I am… sounds strange I know.

Often the only place to find peace and quiet is at the beach. You can’t imagine how much I enjoy my mornings there… sun, sea and strolling along the water’s edge where I spend hours musing over the thousands upon thousands of beautiful pebbles.

Monday afternoon’s siesta was disturbed by the very loud meows of our very pregnant cat who in true form, eventually took herself off, not to the spot carefully chosen for her by Vasilis but rather to one of her own choosing… inside a discarded 20kg heavy paper sack. By Tuesday we would discover 3 new additions to the feline family… sadly, only 2 survived.

Tuesday began as most days do in Kastéli with time spent at the beach, lunch, siesta, shower, then downstairs for my afternoon coffee. What a surprise to find Anna’s daughter Kiki here, visiting from Chania… I hadn’t seen her for maybe 10 years. Together with her late husband Sifi, Kiki lived in Germany for many years, where their children and grandchildren still live. However, many are currently holidaying on Crete and today for the first time in almost 40 years, I got to see Kiki’s daughter Voula and son Yani again, as well as meet their children for the first time.

Had a wonderful catchup with Kiki while the families enjoyed time at beaches nearby and Katina put together a meal for everyone. Multi lingual conversation… Greek, German and a little English, finishing our evening back in the courtyard.

I never come to Kastéli without visiting the cemetery where Costas and other family members have been laid to rest. Walked up the hill Thursday morning before the intense heat of the day… lovely views of the town from up there too.

Not many days left now… Tuesday I fly to Athens and late Wednesday I begin the long journey home.

Kastéli Kissámou… our house extreme right
Voula’s daughter Maria, friend Yani, Anna, Voula
Yani’s sons Daniel and Sifis, Maria
Tsikoudiá… the Cretan Spirit
The small fish Gavros are the cheapest and tastiest you’ll find in Greece
Anna’s husband Vasilis and sons Yani and Costas
Family tomb… Kastéli Kissámou cemetery
Parthenos Monastery… Kastéli Kissámou
Kastéli Kissámou
Kastéli Kissámou… the 2 large buildings are schools
Kastéli Kissámou

Daily Life In Kastéli Kissámou

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By Helen Grubner | Filed in Uncategorized | 2 comments

Week ending Sunday, 14 August 2022… as portrayed in Images.

Our yard in Kastéli (Mulberry tree hiding external stairs)
Our  home in Kastéli (stairs to bedrooms/bathroom)
View from the house up to the road
Our courtyard… sadly, the grapes this year are no good. The family won’t use pesticides.
Yánni and María
Katerína, Kostoúla, Orésti
Orésti and Ioánni
Orésti
Ioánni
Díctamos (origanum dictamnus)… Endemic to Crete, during the years of my cottage industry Hellenic Herbs, the flower of Dittany of Crete was my logo.
Budgerigars enjoying their daily rations of Glistrída (purslane)
Glistrída (purslane) often added to a Greek Salad
Some nights the majority of the budgerigars choose to sleep clinging to the wire.
Around 21 June (the longest day) Valsamóchorto… St Johns Wort is gathered, packed into jars with olive oil, covered with black cloth and left in the sun to infuse for 40 days. The strained oil is used to treat wounds and burns.
St Johns Wort after 40 days infused in olive oil
Infused St Johns Wort Oil… from yellow flowers comes this beautiful colour
Fakés… Lentil Soup
Kotópolou Kokkinostó (chicken in red sauce), lettuce and cucumber salad with walnuts and pomegranate seeds, the best chips in the world!
Bouréki (Greek Vege Pie) and Salad
Fasolákia (green beans) with potatoes, courgettes and corn
Pebbles on Kastéli beach. Most people flock to nearby Bálos, Falásarna or Elafoníssi… beautiful beaches, however, same sun, same water here and only a 10 minute walk from home.
Kastéli Kissámou Beach

First Weekend In Kastéli Kissámou

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By Helen Grubner | Filed in Uncategorized | 2 comments

Saturday, 6 August 2022… Sacrificed going to the beach this morning, to allow me to go and see a travel agent about my Sky Express flight from Crete to Athens. I’ve been unable to Manage My Booking online… turns out, what I thought was a zero in the reservation number is actually a capital O! Enjoyed a walk around the town at the same time.

The Feast of the Transfiguration is celebrated on 6 August, that is today and those on a strict fast, which precedes 15 August, are allowed to eat fish on this day and so everyone eats fish.

After siesta, sitting in the courtyard having our afternoon coffee… first Maria, then Katerina (Anna’s great granddaughters) arrived. In the evening visited Vanna (granddaughter) and Roma… transported there by Vasilis on the back of his motorbike. When we returned to the house around 11.45 hours, Vasilis and a friend were off to listen to live Cretan music where, no doubt, much drinking would take place. They asked me to join them and I was oh so tempted. However, declined the offer… thanking myself in the morning for allowing good sense to prevail.

Sunday, 7 August 2022… Caught up with a few family members today. Anna’s granddaughter Kostoúla came to visit us from Plataniás… so lovely to see her. Maria, her daughter was here too for lunch… Pastítsio – yum, yum! Later in the day Katerína was back and ‘Ioánna (sister of Vasilis and Kostoúla) came from Chania.

Here we have 5 dogs… Leon and Parapóthi are allowed inside, as well as 5 cats, one of whom is pregnant. Then, of course, there are the uncountable number of budgerigars (has to be more than 100), chickens and one solo rabbit. From daybreak the roosters are crowing, the cicadas are singing and the budgerigars are chirping… it’s such a different life here in Kastéli Kissámou.

Our beloved Anna ♥… 102
Kastéli Kissámou Platéia (Square)
Kastéli Kissámou Platéia
Eleftherios Venizelos Statue
I’ve admired this property in Kastéli for many years
Hellenic Roman Necropolis (cemetery) 1st-4th Cent. AD
Outside the Municipality of Kastéli offices
Psária (fish) with Vlýta
Leon
Budgerigars
Parapóthi with 1 Moggy
Pregnant Moggy
Vasilis with 2 Moggies
Budgerigar feeding time
Vasilis with his niece María
Katerína with Katìna (her grandmother) and Anna
Katerína and María (sisters) with Parapóthi
Odysséas and Metó (great great grandchildren)
Bijou with kittens… @ Vanna and Roma’s
Bijou
Pastítsio
Katína, Anna, María, Kostoúla (mother of María and Katerína)

Thursday, 4 August 2022… My arrival at the family home in Kastéli Kissámou going on 02.00 hours set all 5 dogs barking and woke up Vasilis who greeted me at the door.

For many years when I have come to visit, I have had a made up bed in Anna’s room which I’ve been ever so grateful for. Imagine my surprise when Vasilis ushered me upstairs and showed me to his room, all cleaned and ready for me to stay in while he will sleep on the sofa downstairs… you know the feeling when you can’t thank someone enough.

I’m also feeling very blessed right now… here I am once again with my Cretan family whom I’ve known since 1981. Anna who is now 102 and doing remarkably well is cared for by Katina, a daughter-in-law and mother of Vasilis.

Visited the Vodafone store this morning… fingers crossed all my telephone woes will be a thing of the past and yes, there is even a cheap ‘Made in China’ shop here where I purchased a new trolley case for E40 (NZ$65 approx.).

Enjoyed my first meal here today where our main meal is usually had midday. It has always been customary for Anna and I to partake of a small glass of wine at mealtimes and to that end, nothing has changed. Katina’s Greek Salads are legendary and she cooks amazing, delicious food.

At the moment Vasilis is working on an old traditional stone house in a nearby village. He arrived home for lunch shirtless… why, because it was used to carry figs, picked off a tree in the village, nothing artificial nor chemical has been anywhere near them and they are truly to die for… as sweet as honey!

After lunch is always siesta time… evenings are often spent in the company of others. Tonight Vanna (Anna’s granddaughter) together with Odysséas and Metó (great great grandchildren) came to visit. Typically, bedtime is around midnight.

Friday, 5 August 2022… Today like many to follow, began with my habitual large mug of Greek coffee… by 10.00 hours I was at the local beach. Back home around noon for another delicious lunch… Keftedákia (meatballs), Yemistá (stuffed vegetables) and Greek Salad. Siesta and a quiet evening, however, I expect the weekend maybe a different story.

First lunch in Kastéli
Village figs… delicious!
New installation since I was last here
View from my room
Kastéli Kissámou waterfront
Kastéli Kissámou
Gramvoúsa Peninsula
Rodopoú Peninsula
Kissámou Bay
Keftedákia, Yemistá, Greek Salad

Quiet Time For Reflection

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Monday, 1 August 2022… Kaló Mína (Good Month) seems to echo about on the first day of the month in Greece.

After yesterday’s trials and tribulations, today has been one of chilling out. Had my coffee in my room as I do whenever it is possible, heading out around 09.00 hours in search of a Bakery. Settled for Bougátsa, a Greek breakfast pastry with Semolina custard between layers of phyllo… yummy! Returned to my room at Porfýra with a few provisions before heading out again for a walk around Potamós.

Unfortunately, there is no longer a bus service operating between locations on the island so without a car, I am somewhat limited as to where I can go… even the nearest beaches are some 6km away. However, after more than 2 months on the road, I am actually quite happy to sit back and reflect for a couple of days.

Ventured out late afternoon to find somewhere to have lunch/early dinner. In the Square, I came upon Taverna Panáretos. Thoroughly enjoyed Makarónia me Kimá (spaghetti bolognaise) with a quarter kilo of the house white wine.

Tuesday, 2 August 2022… My first stop this morning… a jewellers to get a broken clasp replaced on a chain but, unfortunately, nowhere to get a new wheel on my trolley case or buy another one.

It is cooler today, like 29°C with a welcoming breeze. Visited Astikón for a late breakfast… eggs and bacon and a cappuccino. Established in 1908, Astikón is open every day from 08.00 – 03.00 hours for coffee, food or even late night drinks when there is often live music… really cool vibe!

An afternoon on the terrace sunbathing and doing Code Crackers. In the evening went back to Taverna Panáretos for dinner.

Wednesday, 3 August 2022… Had my hosts arrange for Manos, the lovely but crazy taxi driver who drove me to Potamós on Sunday, to pick me up this morning at 11.00 hours and take me back to Diakófti. What I didn’t know prior was that Manos hails from Diakófti and his mum runs the local Mini Market. He took me to meet her and I was able to leave my luggage there for the day.

Diakófti is the main ferry Port of Kýthira. There is also a lovely beach and two shipwrecks… the Nordland shipwreck (off Prasonisi Island) and the beached Shipwrecked Fishermen of Kýthira.

Seajets ferry boat “Aqua Jewell” was scheduled to depart Diakófti at 19.20 hours and arrive at Kissamos 23.15 hours. Accordingly, I had arranged for family to pick me up from the Port. However, in reality we left Kýthira at 20.53 hours and arrived on Crete at 01.30 hours. With no data on my phone and no Wifi on the boat, I couldn’t contact family. Seeing a deserted Port, they had been and gone by the time I arrived… fortunately, I managed to get a taxi.

Extremely happy to be here.

The Shipwrecked Fishermen of Kýthira (Nordland shipwreck off Prasonisi Island in the distance)
My home for 3 nights… Porfýra, Potamós, Kýthira
My room… top left hand corner
Bougátsa
There are loads of DIY opportunities in Potamós
Note: food bowls for the stray animals
Potamós
View from Potamós to nearby village
Makarónia me Kimá
Astikón… Potamós
Astikón… Potamós
Breakfast at Astikón
Potamós
Diakófti Beach
Diakófti Beach
Diakófti Beach
Diakófti surrounds
The Shipwrecked Fishermen of Kýthira (Krítamo in the foreground)
The Shipwrecked Fishermen of Kýthira (passing ferry and Nordland in the distance)
Unidentified flowers (like daffodils) growing in the sand
Diakófti
Seajets “Aqua Jewell”
Seajets “Aqua Jewell”