Itisallgreek2me

Emborios, Nisyros

Began the day with a walk to the office to buy my ticket for the ferry boat Diagoras tomorrow – departing at 0750 hours, 1 hour 50 minutes later than usual, however, should see me arriving at the island of Astypalea around 1315 hours.  I had not planned anything for today, however, walked on to the harbour to see Michelle from Enetikon Travel as I was still hoping to visit Emborios before I leave.  Michelle was able to procure me a seat on a tourist bus travelling to the volcano which would drop me off as near to the village as it was safely possible to do so. 

The small crater-top village of Emborios lies some 8 kilometres south east of Mandraki and is a mixture of ruins and rubble and refurbished houses.  I explored one end of the village before reaching the square then sat on the balcony at Restaurant “Balcony of Emborio” for a well deserved frappe, with spectacular views of the caldera.  A party of six Greeks arrived soon after, ordering rizogalo (Greek rice pudding) and faskomilo (sage tea).

With very little sign of life – more cats I think than people, I wandered among the houses and ruins, making my way up to a church just out of the confines of the village then slowly back towards the square.  By then it was time for lunch, ordered Briam (baked summer vegetables – today a mix of aubergine, courgette, carrot, tomato and onion) – possibly the best Briam I have ever tasted and together with crusty bread and an ice cold Amstel beer, I was very satisfied.  A young couple arrived to join me on the balcony and when I saw that he was about to take a photograph of his companion, I offered to take one of them together.  This led to a conversation where I learnt they were from Russia and like me, work in real estate. 

It was around 1330 hours when I began my walk back towards Mandraki.  Some 40 minutes down the winding road a car stopped, it was the Russian couple – Liudmila and Timur and they offered me a lift back into town, dropping me off outside Hotel Romantzo.  They were staying on the island of Kos and had come to Nisyros for the day in a tour group, however, had rented a car to visit the volcano, Nikia and Emborios, as that is what they prefer to do.  Again, I have to say it is interesting how things happen if you believe in what is meant to be will be.  However, had I not offered to take their photograph, I would probably have had to make the long walk back to Mandraki and so, thank you Liudmila and Timur – I trust you will enjoy following my travels long after you arrive back home.

When I was working hard in New Zealand to save for this travel, motivated by my dream to be in Greece, it was for days such as today – my way of chilling out and tomorrow I will leave Nisyros feeling happy and content with the memories I have of this beautiful, quiet and peaceful, relatively unspoilt island.

Mandraki, Nisyros

Awoke this morning to a somewhat cloudy and cooler day which gives some relief – even a light shower around midday which took everyone by surprise.  Walking in the town, I noticed a memorial to Yanni Katsimatidis, killed in the terrorist attack in New York on 11 September 2001.  I can only assume he was from one of the island’s many families who have immigrated to America over the years, a number of others have made Australia their home. 

Revisited the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani built around 1400 AD.  As in most churches and monasteries in Greece, it is forbidden to take photographs, however, I managed one in the entrance to the Katholikon, the Monastery’s central church and another looking out a window as I descended the stairway into the church.  The Monastery sits atop a hill shared by the Spiliani Fortress, thought to have been built by the Knights of the Order of St John (1315).  The small Historical Museum of Nisyros can be found on the way back down, opening from 1100 – 1400 and 1900 – 2100 hours daily with an entrance fee of 1 Euro. 

Far more impressive and a must visit is The Archaeological Museum of Nisyros situated in the center of the town of Mandraki.  Exhibits cover the entire course of the island’s history down to the post-Byzantine period.  On the lower level in the last room of the Museum, plates from a 19th century ship-wreck in the vicinity of Nisyros are presented.  You can also view a short film referring to the excavation and the restoration of the acropolis fortification wall on Paleokastro.  Generally I am not a great fan of museums, however, I enjoyed this one immensely.  Once again, the taking of photographs is forbidden. 

Returned to Nostos Cafe for lunch.  I have still to try two local traditional products – Soumada, a non-alcoholic almond flavoured drink and Kanellada, a non-alcoholic cinnamon flavoured drink. 

I so easily become a creature of habit when I discover a Taverna that I like – tonight I was back at Kalikatsos for dinner, this time Soupies Krasates (cuttlefish in wine) served with rice and yes, my 1/4 litre red wine and bread.  There they serve you a wee plate of olives, pickled caper leaves and slices of cucumber to nibble on with the bread as you await your main meal and tonight Maria brought me a chocolate dessert to finish.  On my walk back I stopped to speak with a lady feeding cats and praised her for her kindness.  She was Greek, however, from Australia, here in Nisyros to oversee the renovations to the house that was once her mother’s home.  Said she would never dream of selling the house at any price which is how it always used to be and still seems to be here on Nisyros.

Entrance to Ancient Acropolis of Nisyros

Still recovering from yesterday’s paradisaical wanderings, I have been obliged to spend today in Mandraki and places nearby.  Early this morning the town was all but deserted – that would change when the boats of day trippers, mainly from the island of Kos, arrived to visit the volcano.  Usually they spend the few extra hours they have here at local sites and attractions, with taverna owners hoping some of the tourists will want to eat at their establishments. After breakfast at Cafe Nostos, I decided to take the century old trail up to the Paleokastro or as it is also known, the Ancient Acropolis of Nisyros.  Other than a groundsman, I had the entire site to myself.  With a history dating back 2600 years to 400 – 500 BC, it’s remains include Cyclopean walls that were made from massive blocks carved from the volcanic rock of the island.  It would have been almost impossible for the enemy to gain entry anywhere in the castle and the views from the hilltop are outstanding.  Although the terrain is rocky, the volcanic soil is fertile and there is a certain lushness and greenness to the land, even now with summer fast approaching.  

Returning to Mandraki town, it crossed my mind to return to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani, which was closed the other day.  Spoke with a family returning from there who told me something like 100 people had just ascended (no doubt day trippers off boats) so thought I would give it a miss and try again tomorrow.  I am free and I have more time.  

Came 1700 hours and unlike all you Kiwis back home, I had the luxury of watching live, at a respectable hour, the Paraguay versus New Zealand game in the World Cup 2010.  Viewed the first half here at Hotel Romantzo then wandered on down to a Cafe, with an ouzo for courage, to watch the second half on the bigger screen.  Alas, all the Greek customers were more interested in the Italian versus Slovakia game and the Italians made their departure in the same way as our All Whites.  I’m not really a soccer fan, however, always patriotic when it comes to my country.   

Decided to revisit Taverna Kalikatsos, no big waves to swamp us tonight.  Avoided sitting at a table where I thought I saw a scary looking spider wrapped around a table leg – when closely viewed I realised it was, in fact, a crab.  The clientele at Kalikatsos seem to be mainly Italians and intrepid travellers like me.  Andrea, the Italian waiter, fond of rolling a smoke and drinking his white wine as he serves, assists three very capable women – one who works only in the kitchen and two others who move amicably from table to food preparation.  I cannot help but feel for the older Greek couple with a Taverna next door who have had no customers on either of the nights when I have been at Kalikatsos.  

I ordered the Couscous with Vegetables and Haloumi (a traditional Cypriot cheese made from a mixture of goat and sheep milk and quite salty) with, of course, my standard 1/4 litre of red wine and bread.  As the sun set behind clouds and other diners were just arriving, I was ready to call it a day, other than having my website to update on my return to the hotel.

Helen in the Crater, Island of Nisyros

Began my day by visiting Michelle at Enetikon Travel to purchase a one way ticket on a tourist bus to the Volcano.  At 1040 hours we were on our way, travelling first along the coast towards Palli then up the winding, twisting road in the mountains and down into the caldera.  For all you kiwis following my journey or anyone else who has visited the thermal areas of New Zealand, you will well know the smell of sulphur in the air as it was today – I could easily have been in rotten old Rotorua! 

The caldera itself is 3-4 kilometres wide.  Although the volcano is active, it is not erupting – the last eruptions were in the 1880’s.  Stefanos, the biggest hydrothermic crater on earth is, obviously, the largest crater of the volcano and you can walk down into it – an amazing place!  The entire volcanic complex includes the seafloor between Nisyros and Kos, the island of Gyali and a part of Kos island. 

Left all the tourists in my wake as this intrepid traveller planned to walk from the volcano to the mountain village of Nikia.  Sought directions from a local in the volcano cafe – there were two options.  A path going directly up the mountainside from the caldera to the village without much in the way of views, the shorter route, or along the road on the other side of Stefanos until I came to a path on the left which would take me up over the ridge of the mountain with superb views of the volcano and out to sea – chose this way. 

Like yesterday, stripped down to bikini top and shorts – very hot in the midday sun, however, thankfully a very fresh breeze.  No trouble finding the path on the left which varied from carefully laid stones to a dusty track and yes, quite spectacular views in every direction.  It was only when I was nearing the village and hearing the chorus of cicadas as if welcoming me, that three other walkers, Germans I believe, passed me.  They had walked all the way from Mandraki and were planning to walk all the way back.  Not me, I would catch the 1430 hours bus from Nikia – what is more, it was free! 

One hour and twenty minutes after leaving the volcano cafe I reached the village of Nikia, a very quiet and peaceful place.  Having had only fruit and a frappe before leaving Mandraki this morning, I was hungry and ready for lunch.  Found the one and only Taverna in the village, ordered a well earned cold Amstel beer, katsikaki me patates (goat meat with potatoes) and delicious toasted bread, drizzled with oil and oregano, the latter ideal for soaking up all the yummy sauce and juices of the meal.  Replete, I walked a little more around the village until the bus arrived which delivered me back to Mandraki, tired and weary, however, feeling very satisfied with my day.  A short walk back to Hotel Romantzo for a well earned siesta. 

The walk through the Samaria Gorge on Crete was extraordinary, however, my walk today from the volcano of Nisyros to the mountain village of Nikia came close to equalling it – I wonder what I can do tomorrow that will be just as good.  Be sure to view the photographs – a selection from the 50 images I have taken today.

Palli, Nisyros

Today I have seen the sunrise and the sunset and now it is time to sit and write my blog as Greece play Argentina in the World Cup.  Only two Greek males watching the game live here in the hotel lobby, however, they are making enough noise for a large crowd which is a little distracting to me but nevermind.  

I set off from Mandraki shortly after 0630 hours this morning to walk to the small fishing village of Palli some 4km away.  Every day here the weather is hot, very hot, however, some days are quite unpleasant whilst others such as today, thanks to a breeze are pleasant.  To the north the small island of Gyali where pumice is mined is clearly visible then just a kilometre or so down the road you come to Loutra, famous for it’s spa springs with sodium and sulphur rich waters and a maximum temperature of 48 degrees C.   

Approximately one hour of walking and I arrived in Palli.  Ordered and enjoyed a particularly good frappe (iced coffee) at a harbour front taverna as all the yachties ate breakfast on board their yachts, then bought a delicious milopita (apple pie) from the local bakery and sat down on the beach to eat it.  I had come prepared to swim, however, after an hour decided to make my way back to Mandraki, wearing shorts and bikini top, hoping to maintain my suntan.  Also checked out Loutra on my return, however, made a decision to give a bath a miss, I think mainly because I simply did not feel inclined to shut myself away in a hot bath on my own.   

This afternoon I have walked a considerable number of k’s through the alleyways of Mandraki,  as well as making my way up the stairs to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani (Blessed Virgin Mary of the cave) only to find all doors closed which was disappointing.   Somehow it signalled to me that it was time to find a Cafe for an ouzo and to finish reading my book ‘Hotel du Lac’ by Anita Brookner – good read.  During daytime hours Mandraki is humming with all the day trippers who arrive by boat to visit the volcano, however, come evening and the place is very quiet – in fact, many tavernas do not bother to open and tonight I had to search to find a place to eat.  Settled on Taverna Kalikatsos – more Italian really than Greek but rather tasty, interesting food where I had a very good chicken souvlaki.  Situated right on the seafront, it is necessary for plastic blinds to be lowered when wild weather arrives otherwise the diners may encounter an unexpected shower.  Tonight came a close call as the waves pounded into the shore and over the wall on to tables and chairs where the waiter had been remiss in lowering a blind. 

Just now, Yiorgos came in to tell me he sighted an owl in the kitchen – coffee colour, however, it has gone into hiding somewhere.  We have tried in vain to find it – now off to bed as almost midnight.   Perhaps tomorrow I will visit the volcano.

'Silver Head' - Feast Day of Agios Nikitas of Nisyros

Unbeknown to me, I was arriving in Nisyros on a very important day – a religious celebration happening at the church opposite Hotel Romantzo, commencing on Sunday 20 June, my first day on the island and continuing on Monday 21 June, the Feast Day of Agios Nikitas of Nisyros, patron saint of the island. 

The afternoon began with a small group, lead by four young boys dressed in colourful robes and priests, leaving the church to walk through the town.  Around 1900 hours, just after the church bell had rung out in a deafening way, they returned leading a grand procession of church representatives, local dignitaries, army personnel and scores of islanders.  With crowds already waiting at the church, the service began and went on and on and on.  I have very little understanding of what it was all about – I believe the church representatives included those of the highest order as it was a very special celebration of something to do with Agias Nikitas, taking place for the first time on Nisyros.  The Feast Day is celebrated every year on 21 June, however, the ‘silver head’ held some special significance.  When the service eventually came to an end, in fact, even before then, the table of Greek sweets, brought along by the womenfolk,  was uncovered and the eating began.  I had been given a mixed plate of sweets earlier on, all of which I have devoured over the last 24 hours.

By 2230 hours the crowd was long gone – as I thought of bed, a few late stragglers were still arriving at the church but the hot night air was still and quiet and remained so until 0700 hours this morning when it began all over again.  I feel privileged to have been here at this time, however, I would like to understand more of what the celebration was all about.

Today I ventured out to walk around and discover the town of Mandraki where I am staying.  A maze of little alleys and the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani atop a rock at the western end.  I bought a bag of stone fruits – nectarine, peach and apricot, to enjoy at will, then a fish meal at Captains Taverna.  Tourists may have considered the fare to be enjoyable, however, for me it was very disappointing so I will not be returning there.  I had wanted to explore further and take more photographs but the heat got the better of me, came back to my room for a siesta intending to wander off again early evening – have not done so – there will be another day.

Footnote – Amazingly, my brain clicked in last evening telling me what a great opportunity a religious celebration in Greece would be to try out my video taking skills.  Shot a few short clips, I have copied them to my computer, now I need to figure out how I can open the files and copy them to my website.

Rhodes Harbour Sunrise

By the time I arrived at Taverna Kyma, Markello and the freshly caught cooked fish and cold beer were awaiting me.  Ate as much as I could, however, in the company of Greeks it doesn’t seem to matter how much I eat, it is never enough in their minds.  I enjoyed very much every mouthful.  With the ferry boat late in arriving, we had a little more time and after telephoning his wife Athanasia in Athens and us both speaking with her, I eventually said my farewell, leaving with a contact and a name of Rooms to Rent on the island of Kalymnos which for me is only a couple of island hops away.  Also, strict instructions that when I return to Athens, probably in October, I am to contact Markello with an invitation to stay with he and Athanasia in their home.  I want to take the opportunity to boast about my grasp of the Greek language.  Although Markello speaks and understands a reasonable level of English, we communicated mainly in the Greek language.  It was not until he asked me last evening just exactly where I was born, that he came to realise I was not born in Greece to Greek parents. 

Ferry boat Preveli finally departed around 2235 hours bound for Rhodos.  Nothing very much to do to pass the time and so I mainly tried to make myself as comfortable as I could in the lounge chairs to enable me to catch a few winks.  Just prior to our arrival at Rhodes, one of the crew commenced his duty of vacuuming the lounge area – took me all my time to control my laughter, partly I guess due to silly tiredness, however, I have never seen anyone use a vacuum cleaner in quite the same way – he would have to be a strong contender for a Mr Bean impersonator. 

0300 hours and the ferry boat docked at Rhodes harbour.  I could not see any sign of a terminal or somewhere suitable to sit out my 6 hours wait and so I began to walk into town.  5-10 minutes along the road, someone from behind asked me where I was from – it was Judy, born in New Zealand, however, when she has not been travelling the world, which she seems to have done a great deal of, Judy has lived most of her life in Australia.  She had a 5 hour wait for the boat to Turkey and so it was that we took the road together into the old part of town.  Found somewhere to sit out 2-3 hours and passed the time in conversation in which I have to say, Judy contributed 95% of.  Although there are two harbours in Rhodes, someone had told Judy her boat would leave from the same harbour we had arrived at earlier in the morning and I therefore assumed the same would apply to me.  So it was that we set off around 0600 hours to walk back to where we had come from, only to find very little sign of life.  When a taxi arrived to pick up a passenger, I approached and asked the driver where our vessels would be leaving from – to be told it was from the other harbour and would you believe, we had been sitting very near there and had walked all the way back for nothing. 

With the sun risen and the temperature rising we began our walk back yet again along the road we had just come, on the understanding if we found a taxi, we would go halves in the cost of transporting us and our luggage to the harbour.  Taxi found, 5 Euro later and I farewelled Judy by her boat bound for Turkey, before I was dropped off by the catamaran Express Dodekanisos, bound for Nisyros at 0900 hours – still a 2 hour wait.  Watched how others live partaking of their breakfast on the Super Yachts moored nearby.  Departed on time at 0900 hours – first stop the island of Halki.  I had tossed up in my mind about stopping off there – I have to say it looked amazing, I may have to put Halki on my itinerary for another occasion.  Next stop the island of Tilos then on to Nisyros my destination, arriving on time at 1145 hours. 

Having made a reservation on the Internet, I could see my accomodation Hotel Romantzo from the sea and in the searing midday sun headed straight there for a shower, change of clothes and general settling into my room for a planned one week’s stay.  A family run business and an older establishment than what I have generally become used to, however, my needs are adequately met and at 20 Euro per night I am not complaining.  

For the second time I find I am somewhere which does not exist on my travel map.  The first being Leonidio and now the island of Nisyros – I guess that says something for the obscurity of this place and I look forward to writing more as I discover the island over the next few days.

Olymbos, Karpathos

Up at the crack of dawn and one of the first to venture downstairs to the dining room for breakfast just after 0700 hours.  Bread arrived late (that famous Greek time) however, not a major.  Had packed and left the hotel soon after 0800 hours to pass by the office to buy my boat and bus tickets to Diafani and Olymbos, departing 0830 hours.  By boat is the best way to get to Diafani, today it was late by 25 minutes (again, Greek time) – travelling along a mostly rugged coastline with a sprinkling of small isolated villages and beaches.

After 1 1/2 hours we arrived at Diafani and for the dozen or so of us who were not in the Group, a mini bus was waiting to take us up to Olymbos, a mountain village where I had been told, time has stood still.  Before reaching the village, a stop for photographic opportunities and oh, that first sight of the village – stunning, awesome, breathtaking, amazing – all of those. 

Wandered about looking for all the old traditional aspects of the village and it’s people that I have read about for such a long time.  The older women still dress in traditional costumes, sometimes elaborately embroidered, with headscarves and some still wear the goatskin boots.  They bake their bread in outdoor communal ovens and although I did not see them, I believe there are still working windmills in which they grind their own corn.  In one Taverna a woman was busy preparing makarounes, a hand made pasta.  As I walked back towards our meeting point, I came across a very clever cat doing his work, for in his jaws was a snake.  Very much still alive, the cat had the snake by it’s neck.  When I asked one of the local women if it was a species for us to be fearful of, she answered no, however, added, would you like to wake to one next to you in bed?  A little later on, I walked back to that same Cafe/Restaurant to photograph a Greek man playing an ancient musical instrument Sofia told me is called a Sambuna although I have been unable to find out anything more about it on the Net.  Several times I saw an African worker with donkey going about his duties, transporting building materials and other requirements about the village.  Motorised transport can go only as far as the village boundary.

A very interesting hour or so, I spent in the company of Sofia at her Restaurant/Cafe.  I ordered an orange drink and after a while Sofia offered me a kourambiethes, i.e. a Greek butter cookie covered with icing sugar- quite yummy!  Although her husband spent 10 years in America, Sofia has been in the village all her life and adheres as much as she can to the traditional ways, like she has never cut her hair.  As we talked she busied herself working with needle and thread on a tablecloth for Christmas.  Apparently, visitors are few compared to recent times.  If I have one regret it would be that I never went to Olymbos years’ ago – still worth visiting, however, as we all well know, time has changed everything in the world.

From Olymbos, the mini bus took us back down to the seaside town of Diafani where we had time to relax – eat, swim or do whatever, before our boat left around 1700 hours to take us back to Pigadia.  Thinking the boat left at 1600 hours, I returned in good time and as it happened, Markello, the boat’s chief commando, asked me where I was from.  Unbeknown to me, Markello has had a desire for many years to emigrate to New Zealand and so it was that we struck up a lengthy conversation about Aotearoa and other things. 

Arrived back in Pigadia in time to purchase my ticket for the ferry boat Preveli, departing for Rhodos at 2155  hours, a couple of hours on the computer back at Sunrise Hotel where I also needed to collect my back pack, then a walk to the harbour to meet Markello – earlier he had invited me to join him at Taverna Kyma (Restaurant Waves) for some fresh fish and beer before leaving the island.

Pigadia, Karpathos

Aware that Greek time is anytime, I made sure I was awaiting the 1130 hours bus from Finiki to Pigadia from 1115 hours.  The bus arrived at 1125 hours, grumpy driver would not open the luggage compartment for me, meaning I had to struggle to place my back pack inside the bus.  Next came our conversation in Greek which roughly translated goes something like this.  Driver “Take that walking stick off the pack and where did you get it from?”  Me “What has it to do with anything – How much costs my ticket?”  Driver “2 Euro – Maybe it’s made from some wood you shouldn’t have.”  Me “It is not from Karpathos.”  Ignoramus!  Then, I found a camera on the floor by my seat – did not trust the driver to hand it to the authorities and so left it with the hotel staff in Pigadia to do so.

The winding scenic road took us first through Arkasa, then over the mountain range through the village of Menetes and down to the eastern coastal town of Pigadia.  Eventually found Sunrise Hotel, nicely appointed and with everything I have come to expect like a balcony with sea views – 38 Euro for the night which included buffet breakfast.  Something I had missed that morning so out in the heat of the day to find Taverna Elleniko for lunch.  Unbearably hot – back to the hotel and my air conditioned room for the duration of the afternoon.

Wanting very much to have a look around this little town, I took the opportunity early evening for a stroll, managed a handful of images and time once again to make a withdrawal from my Euro Travel Card.  I have learnt to look for the Bank of Piraeus as they do not charge me anything for the transaction, however, the National Bank of Greece charge 12.50 Euro for currency conversation.  Interesting, when my money is already in Euro.  Unfortunately, had to use the National Bank as no other in Pigadia.

A light cafe meal near the hotel and an early night, in the knowledge that the next day would be a big one – off to Diafani and Olymbos for the day, returning to Pigadia to catch the 2155 hours ferry boat to Rhodes on Saturday, in transit to the island of Nisyros – arriving 1145 hours Sunday.

Fox and I, Hotel Finiki View, Karpathos

My routine for the past 24 hours much the same as every day and night has been here in Finiki.  Finished working on the computer last evening then a walk down to the harbour and beach for dinner.  Chose Stifado – a meaty stew with beef and baby onions in a slightly sweet sauce containing herbs and spices.  With my usual bread and wine and watermelon to finish – delicious!  Today an early light lunch – toasted sandwich and vanilla milkshake, followed by some 4 hours at the beach – my fifth day in a row, therefore, requiring careful application of sunscreen.  My last evening meal at Restaurant Finiki View – Kalamari (far superior to those rings we eat at home) with fries, little salad and tzatziki, bread, wine and watermelon to finish.

Panayiotes and Maria operate the Hotel and the Restaurant assisted only by three Indonesians, 2 male and 1 female, whose duties include cleaning, room service, baggage handling, serving and helping out in the restaurant kitchen, in fact, all manner of works.  It is a pretty full on operation and Panayiotes and Maria are up and down the hill all night and day, he on his scooter, she in her car, between the hotel and the restaurant.

If you have travelled in Greece you will know what I’m talking about – if you have not, then you may well be surprised to learn something about the toilets and plumbing in this country.  Firstly, Greeks are fond of removing the plastic or wooden seat and lid, leaving one to sit directly on the cold porcelain bowl.  For some reason unknown to me, the plumbing consists of narrower pipes than those found elsewhere and the consequence of this, you must put your used toilet paper in a bin otherwise, flush it down the toilet possibly at your peril.  Occasionally, you still come across the squatter loos – porcelain tray with a hole to aim for and two large giant sized foot shapes either side, such as I found in the Samaria Gorge and which were particularly difficult for me to negotiate, bearing in mind the state of my knees and legs at that time. 

Thought I would share with you all an exert from an email I received today from Reinhard, the German I met in Kastelli on Crete.  I rather liked what he had to say.  “It was good to meet you at Petra and feel your true inspiration and love for Crete and the Greek myth.  I hope you will find many treasures and hidden sources of wisdom on your travels and that there will always be a warm wind from behind to help you up some stony tracks and a cold glass of water waiting for you when you are thirsty and weary from the heat.”