Itisallgreek2me

Place where Ali Pasha found shelter and was put to death in 1822

Ioannina is a beautiful city in north western Greece, with traditions and a history going back centuries.  Following a good night’s sleep on my first night at Matsa Pension, I was out and about early yesterday morning for a walk beside Lake Pamvotis – taking the first of 90 images that I would clock up for the day.  On my return I answered the doorbell to a Dutch lady and her daughter who decided to take a room for the night so I was no longer alone there.

Ventured out once again for a walk around the beautiful area of the old castle of Ioannina, a bizarre, maze like layout of the castle’s streets which were allegedly designed to confuse pirates.  They certainly confused me and more than once I lost my way completely.  By 1400 hours I found myself on one of the small motor boats which run every half hour in summer to the islet of Nisaki – the little island on Lake Pamvotis.  Earlier in the day when I had asked an old man I saw fishing by the lake, did he eat the fish he caught, he said no, he gives them to a church priest.  When one arrives on the little island, immediately you see three water tanks stationed at a lakeside taverna, one containing live eels, another small freshwater crayfish of some kind and the third, large carp like fish and goldfish.  My point being, in view of the lake being a mass of algae green waters, I personally would not want to risk eating fish which may have come from there.  Instead I chose to eat lamb at a lakeside taverna and even that was not so good.  In Greece, when you need to use a knife instead of just your fork in one hand and a chunk of bread in the other as I did, it usually means the meat is a little tough.  I fed bread to the sparrows and one lucky cat enjoyed all the bits remaining on my plate.

After lunch I took a walk around part of the island and of the six monasteries there, I visited only one – The Monastery of St. Nicholas (Spanou) or Philanthropinon from 1292.  A very tiny little Greek lady somewhat reluctantly unlocked the door for me.  I do not think she could be bothered with visitors in the heat of the day, however, it was well worth seeing, the first chapel I can recall viewing with unrestored frescoes and they were in exceptionally good order.  I also passed by the Cells of St. Panteleimon Monastery where Ali Pasha found shelter and was put to death in 1822 – that building has now been converted into a Museum.  With mainly slate roofed houses, souvenir and silverware shops, tavernas and cafes, the island is a very picturesque place to visit.

I returned to the city on the 1630 hours motor boat, then somehow managed to lose my way again in the old castle area of the town.  Earlier in the morning I had asked my hostess if she could find out what time the bus left today (Wednesday) for Monodendri, one of the 46 mountain villages which make up the Zagorohoria, where I had pre-booked accommodation via email at Archontiko Zarkada, a traditional guest house.  At 1900 hours, she informed me there was no bus to Monodendri until Friday but I wanted to come here today.  I would find a way, however, you will have to wait until I publish my next blog to read how I managed it.

Footnote:  For those of you who liked the sound of Anna’s Fig Bread, check out her comment on my last blog ‘Limnos, Agios Efstratios and Journey to Ioannina’.  There you will find the recipe for Ann’s Almond-Fig Bread.  Anna uses dried figs but I do not think they need necessarily be of the black mission variety.  Also, the Limnos flour is something special and bread made from it is quite yellow in colour, however, again this should not matter.

Helen on the island of Agios Efstratios

My four night stay at Demis and Anna’s in Myrina, Limnos came to an end last evening when Demis drove me down to the Port to await once again the arrival of ferry boat “Theofolis”.  Friday evening Anna made a loaf of her delicious Fig Bread from their own dried figs and ground almonds.  I am not sure of all the ingredients, however, she has promised to email me the recipe.  Under comments in my previous blog ‘Excursions and Explorations on Limnos’, anyone interested can find a link to Anna’s Purslane with Tomato recipe (see also photo in More Photos II).  

Awoke Saturday morning to learn that late the night before, Demis had recruited Tristan arriving off a ferry and Tristan was to occupy the other room for two nights.  24 years’ old, Tristan Stricker is a delightful young man from Bristol in England who set out from home not much over a month ago to cycle through Europe.  Initially, Tristan’s plan if the $’s allowed him, was to make it as far as Bangkok, however, indications were he probably would not go beyond Europe this time.  He writes a brief but amusing blog which currently does need updating, however, he maybe tending to that now whilst he is in Athens on www.crazyguyonabike.com – look under Journals and it contains many photographs of himself taken by setting his camera for 10 seconds before moving into position, on his bike, or whatever. 

For seven years Anna has wanted to visit the small island of Agios Efstratios.  With less than 300 inhabitants and a total land area of approximately 44 square kilometres, it lies 30 kilometres SW of Limnos.  From the early 1930’s to 1943 and again from 1948 until 1963 it was a place of internment for political exiles.  In the 1970’s it was again used as an offshore prison for political dissidents, including the activist and musical composer Mikis Theodorakis (Zorba the Greek) amongst others.  The 19 February 1968 earthquake (7.1 on the Richter scale) which hit Palaio Pedino on Limnos, also struck Agios Efstratios demolishing most houses. 

Yesterday, Anna and I took the boat “Anemos” to the island – first stop was for those who wished to jump in for a swim at one of the island’s many lovely beaches and then around to dock in the harbour of the town.  A walk about the charming little village and a visit to the Museum of Democracy – wow, a very moving experience.  Housed in a building which was originally the first school on the island and then, when Agios Efstratios was a place of exile for political internees it was used as an infirmary.  The building was abandoned after being severely damaged in the 1968 earthquake, however, between 2005 and 2007, it was completely restored.  Anna and I enjoyed a shared lunch at a local Taverna before heading to the beach then a dash to be the last to board at 1630 hours for the 2 1/2 hour boat trip back to Limnos. 

Once aboard the ferry boat “Theofolis” last night – late yet again, scheduled 0110 hours departure became around 0200 hours,  it was difficult to find a place to lie down and rest.  Feeling so tired on arrival in the northern city of Thessaloniki, I took a taxi to the Bus Station where it was 32 degrees C.  Arrived there at 1105 hours leaving me just enough time in hand to catch the 1130 hours bus to Ioannina.  I had anticipated the journey would take around 5 hours, however, with an amazing motorway all the way, we reached Ioannina by 1500 hours, a journey of only 3 1/2 hours.  Initially the landscape was one of brown fields and far reaching plains, until we reached the mountains, where the road takes you through a succession of lengthy tunnels – an amazing feat of engineering.  

Once in Ioannina, I walked and I walked in the hot afternoon sun, looking for a place to stay.  Eventually found Matsa Pension www.xenonas-matsa.gr where I am the only guest in one of four traditional studio apartments.   In August, almost everyone heads to the islands.  I knew this and that is why I am up here now in the north, doing my best to avoid crowds, heat and high prices.  My thoughts are to stay for just 2 nights, enough time to rest a little and organise my next stop – Zagorohoria, a network of some 46 villages in the mountains north of Ioannina.

Abandoned house For Sale - Palaio Pedino, Limnos

Began my day yesterday with a walk up the hill to the Kastro (Castle) of Myrina, Limnos.  Built over the rocky promontory, the foundations date back to classical times when it was the site of the Temple of Artemis.  The walls were built in 1186 by Andronicus Comnenus I then it was substantially rebuilt by the Venetians in the 15th Century and again by the Turks in the late 16th Century.  Today it is home to goats and gazelles, the latter having been known to come down and invade Demis and Anna’s garden.  This is not so surprising when you know what grows here.  Glistrida (purslane) which contains more Omega-3 fatty acids than any other leafy vegetable plant, is in abundance.  Today for lunch we enjoyed this leafy plant boiled, together with a delicious dish created by Anna with the Octapodi (octopus) a friend had given Demis earlier this morning and a salad.  Tortoises also visit the garden and help themselves to whatever takes their fancy, young bean seedlings were on their menu today.  

On returning to the house yesterday, Demis and Anna kindly offered to take me on a drive over much of the island.  They were also wanting to collect spring water, buy good flour and wine and pick figs from the trees on Demis’ 20 stremata plot of land.  With gentle rolling hills and mostly flat plateaus, in some kind of strange way, the island reminded me of New Zealand.  It was only when we arrived at or passed through one of the thirty or so villages and settlements that the landscape suddenly bore no resemblance to home.  We did not visit Moudros, the second largest settlement on the island but passed by Moudros Bay, famous for it’s role as the principal base for the ill-fated Gallipoli campaign in February 1915 so another connection with home – there is a street in one of the villages named Anzac Street.   

After leaving Myrina, the capital and port on the west coast, we came to the picturesque village of Thanos.  Because of the narrow streets, they have in places had to install traffic lights on two way roads to allow vehicles to have their turn in each direction.  At the lights on a steep incline in Thanos, when Demis attempted to move the car forwards, he managed to burn a little rubber, much to my amusement!  We stopped at the village of Repanidi to buy bread for lunch and at Kotsinas to walk to and view the Statue of Maroula, a memorial to commemorate her successful defending of Kotsinas Castle against the Turks in the Middle Ages.  

Earlier this year whilst Anna was back in Canada, Demis spent a month camping out at a beach near Kondopouli where he survived on whatever food he could find or what was brought to him.  Yesterday around midday, Demis, Anna, Rusty the dog and I had arrived at one of the other thirty or so beautiful sandy beaches on the island which was almost deserted, however, a lot more people had come by the time we moved on much later in the day.  On our homeward journey, we stopped in Palaio Pedino, a village severely damaged by an earthquake on 19 February 1968, leaving the residents homeless.  Many moved and rebuilt in what is now known as Neo Pedino but some houses have been restored, whilst others are up For Sale and patiently awaiting new owners to repair and love them.  Both Anna and I agreed, Palaio Pedino is an extremely charming, peaceful and quiet little village.  

It was then on to Portiano to visit Petra and Hein, a German couple from Bavaria who have restored a beautiful old traditional home.  We were invited to stay for a wine or two with mezes, a selection of appetizers or small dishes served with drinks, similar to Tapas in Spain or finger food.  A most enjoyable evening where a mix of three languages, Greek, German and English, were needed for us all to be able to communicate.  

Earlier we had stopped in Lychna to buy wine but, unfortunately, the lady was unable to supply us, I’m not altogether sure of the reason why.  We all forgot about buying the flour but we did collect the spring water at Kondias on our way home.  In spite of no wine nor flour but with spring water and only a small supply of delicious figs both in our tummies and bagged (apparently they are late ripening this year and smaller than usual), I can honestly say the day was one to remember forever.

Myrina Harbour - Limnos

My last day on the island of Oinousses was spent in much the same way as the day before, only I walked less and visited the Nautical Museum.  An interesting place, however, with no air conditioning on (I was the only visitor at the time and obviously I was not considered important enough to be kept cool) the heat in there I found to be unbearable and so my exit from the building was somewhat premature.

With inclement weather threatening and an early start yesterday, I thought it best to forgo “Julie and Julia” at the outdoor cinema and instead have an early night.  The ferry boat “Oinousses III” took me safely back to Chios, a place I would rather not have been, it did nothing for me, I felt it had no heart and no spirit, the only place to have affected me in this way in my 37 years of visiting Greece.  More or less parked myself at Artcafe where they have WiFi and where they kindly allowed me to leave my backpack all day.  Went off during the day to purchase my ticket, eat and to look for an optician as a lens had again come out of my glasses.  Alas, the news was not good – the only place they can be fixed is in Athens, it would take a few days and in any case, I’m not about to risk losing them so I will manage with the 10 Euro reading pair I purchased on Leros until I return home.

On one of my walkabouts I met a lady from Russia, I cannot remember what her name is in Russian – in Greek it is Elpida, which means ‘hope’ and we chatted away together in Greek for sometime.  Elpida is working for an elderly Greek lady she refers to as Yia Yia (grandma), cleaning and cooking etc.  She was very happy to have met me and I hope that she will get in touch with me one day.

It was very hot and noisy in Chios town and I was tired too and so in spite of having all day to write a blog, I chose not too –  perhaps more because of the affect Chios had on me.  When the hour finally arrived to make my way to the port, the bars and pavement were crowded.  Once on board I found a floor space to lie down, hoping to manage a little sleep, however, it was not long before a snoring neighbour forced me to move on and I curled up in a quiet corner of my own.  That was until we stopped over at Mytilini where there was an influx of new passengers and I was joined in my space by an extended Greek family with several snorers – base, treble and alto!  In spite of all this I managed a reasonable night’s rest.

Arriving at the port of Limnos, I expected to see several accommodation owners touting for business but none were visible.  As I began my walk into the town of Myrina, a Greek man spoke to me, asking if I was looking for a room.  I established that what he was offering was a room at a very good price, on the side of the Castro hill, overlooking the town.  Demis and Anna, who is Canadian, live here with their dog Rusty and ten cats and my room forms part of their home – with a wisteria covered terrace overlooking the town and harbour and Demis’ substantial vegetable garden.  In stark contrast to Chios, I feel completely at home here and I know that I will thoroughly enjoy the few days of my stay. 

It is interesting and intriguing to say the least – how things seem mostly to fall into place, how meetings come about and my needs are taken care of.  It is a very simple life that Demis and Anna lead here – without a doubt, for now I have found paradise.

Early morning scene - Oinousses Harbour

At noon Saturday, I happily left Chios Rooms, with enough time to spare to eat before catching the ferry boat ” Oinousses III” to the small island of Oinousses, famous for the significant number of ship owning families who originate from here.  With a cargo including hay bales, air conditioning units and fresh fruit and vegetables, we departed at 1400 hours, arriving just 50 minutes later. 

I had not pre-booked a room and knew it was going to be difficult – the Oinoussians are mostly well to do and not in the least bit interested in tourism, they don’t need to be.  Anyway, with the help of a local taverna owner, I procured what is for me a rather expensive, however, very nice studio apartment where I will treat myself to a 3 night stay. 

Oinousses is actually a cluster of 9 small islands with the majority of the some 1,000 permanent population living in the town of Oinousses.  The world famous ship owning families including Lemos, Pateras, Hadjipateras, Kallokis and Lyras live elsewhere for most of the year, only returning during summer.  Donations from them have assisted the island greatly to build the Stadium here and more.  From my observations, the people are quite happy to keep to themselves and since my arrival, I have yet to see another person who looks non Greek or who is a tourist or traveller. 

Despite the obvious wealth, there is much more I feel could be done to clean up the place.  Rubbish in the harbour waters and in places throughout the town and so many abandoned homes amongst the well maintained mansions.  The cats here would have to be the most timid and hungry that I have come across – cat fights are regularly heard and seen, it seems to be survival of the fittest.  Two privately owned tiny islands with churches sit across from the yacht filled harbour – overall Oinousses is a very charming island. 

This morning I set off early to walk along the coastal road to the beautiful Monastery of Evangelismos, founded in 1964.  The air was still and warm and the only sound was the chanting from the service in the church on the hill, which could still be heard long after I had left the town.  Picked and ate my first ripe figs from roadside trees, warmed by the sun – so delicious!  An abundance of wild herbaceous plants along the way, including young lavender seedlings, just oozing aromatic oils which made my fingers sticky when touched.  Returned via a hillside road and after some 4 hours walking, arrived at a deserted beach for a swim.  2 hours later it had become populated and so I left to walk back to the town for a taverna lunch, followed by a well deserved siesta. 

Presently the time is 2245 hours and I am sitting at Navtikos Omilos Cafe Bar at the harbour, no Internet connection at my studio apartment.  This is a young person’s hangout and as the music gets louder and the crowd grows, I’m feeling anxious to finish and move on.  Tomorrow evening at this time there is a screening of  “Julie and Julia” at the local outdoor cinema.  I would very much like to go, however, with an early start on Tuesday catching the “Oinousses III” back to Chios and then an all day wait until 2245 hours that night for the departure of the ferry boat “Theofilos” for the island of Limnos, arriving 0850 hours the following day, it maybe wise for me to retire early tomorrow evening.  Anyway, I still have one more day to enjoy here tomorrow.

Helen and Heran - The Square, Agios Kirikos, Ikaria

The first evening I was in Ikaria and sitting with my ouzo in the Square, there was a very young girl going from table to table, playing her piano accordion for the people, in the hope that someone might give her a little money in return – she did not come to me.  The second evening I was again sitting with my ouzo as the wee girl made her rounds and with one Euro ready in hand, I beckoned her over and asked her name and age.  Paraskevoula is only 5 years’ old and for whatever circumstances, finds herself on the street playing a repertoire including “Never On A Sunday” and all with one missing key. 

Also, that first evening, a very handsome motor yacht berthed at the harbour.  It was the 43 metre long ‘Hana’ – I can only assume those persons aboard are living a life I have yet to become accustomed to. 

Began the day yesterday returning early to the place I had eaten the night before, to look for a mum and her four kittens.  Mum looked quite healthy, however, her babies were thin and under nourished and two of them had bung eyes – one wee tabby especially and if I could have taken him home with me, then for sure I would have done so.  Anyway, I went back armed with a bag of cat biscuits, found three of the kittens who ate until their belly’s were swollen, then washed and began to play.  Later I came across the fourth kitten and he was extremely happy and friendly – attempting to help himself from the bag. 

It was a long day yesterday with the ferry ‘Theofilos’ arriving and departing late from Agios Kirikos and eventually I arrived in Chios at 2315 hours – 2 hours after the scheduled arrival time.  Heran and I sat drinking frappe’s in the Square until boarding and then we were out on the deck for the entire journey – two solo travellers sharing their experiences, lives and dreams.  I very much enjoyed Heran’s company as I am sure she did mine and Heran has promised to email me and keep in touch. 

As arranged, Kiwi born Don was there to meet me on arrival and bring me to Chios Rooms, located upstairs in a late 19th Century neoclassical mansion – with such high ceilings, I can only imagine the stud must be some 20 feet!  I have my own bathroom although it is outside the room and a balcony with harbour views.  Nearby, the cafe bar Satva pumped out very loud, base loaded music which I can only assume continued on until the wee small hours of the morning as at 0100 hours I had had enough and so popped a sleeping pill and I do not do that too often.  At the moment it is 2230 hours and so too early tonight yet to know if the whole dreaded saga will again unfold. 

Added to these woes is the fact that I am unable to connect to Chios Rooms Wireless and I am struggling, as it so happens, to keep a signal from cafe bar Satva’s unsecured wireless, making things very difficult for me.  So, there could be a change of plans – tomorrow I may leave Chios for quieter shores and the small island of Oinousses.  What a difference 24 hours can make!

The Square - Agios Kirikos, Ikaria

Kick started off my last evening on Samos with another Gyros and cold beer before moving on to Iliad Cafe Bar for a couple of ouzos – as some Greeks will say, we have two legs and we should, therefore, always have two ouzos!  Fortunately, business was not brisk on the night which afforded Kiwi Sandy plenty of time to sit and chat with me. 

Up early yesterday morning and managed to partake of at least some of my breakfast before fare-welling Despina and setting off to catch the 0720 hours bus to Vathi, from where the ferry “Nissos Mykonos” would depart for the island of Ikaria.  Quite a walk from the bus stop to the port where the ferry arrived at 0800 hours – a one hour turn around time with many vehicles and people to offload and board for the journey to Karlavassi (Samos), Fourni, Agios Kirikos (Ikaria), Mykonos, Syros and finally Piraeus. 

When we arrived in Agios Kirikos, the capital of the very mountainous island of Ikaria, the temperature was somewhere in the 30+ degree C range and with a strong wind blowing, I had an uphill walk to make to Maria Elena Pension where I believed I had secured a room via email.  Alas, the room had been given to someone else and so after some telephoning, I walked back down to the port and along the harbour to Akti Pension where the lovely owner Marsha greeted me and I secured my room for 2 nights at 10 Euro per night cheaper than the first Pension! 

In Greece they have Panagiria – traditional feast days celebrating Saints’ name days and other religious holidays.  Yesterday being 20 July, there was a Panagiri celebrating Profitilias in the village of Glaredes and I tried making my way there on foot last night, however, turned back after asking and being told many different things about how far I had still to go, fearing darkness closing in and not wanting to be alone somewhere I did not know.  An opportunity missed to revel with the Ikarians amidst village surroundings – traditional food, live music, non-stop dancing and copious amounts of wine (sounds like a bit of me huh?). 

This morning I hopped on a bus to Therma 2km east from Agios Kirikos.  Renowned for it’s therapeutic hot mineral springs that contain radium, since the 4th Century BC it has been a known centre of hydrotherapy.  Along the coastline there are many areas where radioenergic hot mineral springs flow into the sea from the shoreline, where it is possible to swim and bathe.  As I was sitting waiting for the bus back, I noticed a small boat arrive, it had come from Agios Kirikos and I hopped a ride back for one Euro. 

My room here at Akti Pension shares a bathroom and small kitchen with another room which was vacant last night, however, today saw the arrival of another intrepid traveller – her name is Heran and she is from Korea.  Heran has been 9 months travelling on her own in Iceland, United Kingdom, Spain, Italy and now Greece.  She will also catch the weekly ferry “Theofilos” tomorrow at 1645 hours – I will disembark on the island of Chios at 2115 hours, Heran will continue on to Mytilini, arriving there 0050 hours the next day.  From there she plans to fly to Paris via Athens and eventually travel on to the Netherlands.  Always good to meet up with another like minded soul. 

I am looking forward very much to my time on Chios, especially since this morning I found “Chios Rooms” on the Net.  Run by Don (Kiwi) and Dina (Greek), Don has this afternoon confirmed my room there and will be waiting to meet me off the ferry.  I plan to stay for at least 4 nights, maybe more.  My next blog will be from there.

Heraion of Samos

Samos is rather a large island and without wheels, I have not tried to see it all this time but rather I have been quite happy seeing what I can around Pythagorio by walking everywhere.  Yesterday morning after breakfast I left Hotel Pegasus to walk the seven kilometres to the Heraion of Samos, going the longer way there via the road.  On the way I discovered two sites worth visiting -firstly, the Archaeological Site of Roman Baths – Thermai and a short distance further on, on the other side of the road, an Early Christian Cemetery. 

The Heraion of Samos was one of the most important sanctuaries of ancient Greece and today it is protected as another UNESCO World Heritage Site.  The first Temple of Hera, built at the beginning of the 6th Century under the supervision of the architect Roikos and the artist Theodoros, was destroyed in an earthquake.  During the reign of the tyrant Polykrates, a new even greater Temple, the largest Greek Temple ever built, was started but never completed –  of which, only one column still stands today. 

The site of the town of Pythagorio was the site of the ancient city of Samos and because of the distance between the Temple and the City, they built a road – the Hiera Odos or Holy Road, which was decorated with many statues along the way. 

My return walk to Pythagorio was a little less arduous as I took the alternate route along the beach front road, stopping at Mare Deus Beach Bar for a welcome cold drink, a swim and a rest on one of their sunbeds which are free.  On my return to Pythagorio, I enjoyed a Gyros (pieces of moist and crispy roasted meat with tomato, onion, tzatziki sauce and chips, served in pita bread).  Always delicious and a cheap, budget option meal, yesterday’s Gyros, together with a beer, cost only 4 Euro. 

Tomorrow I leave Samos for the island of Ikaria.  It will be an early start for me as I need to be in Vathi to catch the ferry “Nissos Mykonos” departing at 0900 hours which will mean a bus from Pythagorio preferably at 0720 hours or if I want to cut it fine – 0755 hours.  I shall probably aim for the earlier time, even if that means I have to forgo my breakfast – pity, as it is included in my room rate and has been substantial enough to keep me going until later in the day.

Lykourgos Castle and Cemetery - Pythagorio, Samos

Having a Greek reputation to live up to I guess may have had something to do with the ferry “Nissos Kalymnos” being the best part of an hour late to pick us up yesterday from the island of Agathonissi.  Disembarked around 1400 hours at the port of Pythagorio on Samos island and walked in the searing heat to my pre-booked accommodation at Hotel Pegasus.  An older, traditional establishment, just off the harbour front in a mainly residential street – quiet, clean and comfortable. 

Samos is the 9th most populous Greek island, famous for it’s wine and the many men of genius it has produced.  Perhaps the most famous of all would be Pythagoras (580 – 500BC) the philosopher, mathematician and musician.  

During my stay on Agathonissi, Rena had told me about Sandy, a Kiwi lady with a Cafe Bar in Pythagorio – last night I went looking for her.  Not too difficult to find with a New Zealand flag and an All Blacks flag proudly displayed in the Iliad.  The moment I told her I was from Wanganui she had to sit down – her parents and older sister live there and Sandy used to too.  In 2000, Sandy’s Australian born Greek husband passed away and she made the decision to stay in Samos with her son and daughter as they were happy here.  This ex pat Kiwi is certainly a great ambassador for New Zealand and Greece – her bubbly and friendly personality I am sure would make anyone feel welcome at Iliad Cafe Bar.

This morning after breakfast at the hotel, armed with a roughly drawn map Despina had given me and good advice to stay on the roads because of snakes, I set off on foot to walk firstly to the site of an Ancient Theatre and then on to the Tunnel of Eupalinos.  At the site of the Ancient Theatre (which was not worth viewing) I met a Dutchman, an obvious nature lover, whose hobby it is to photograph birds.  He had left his family sleeping at their hotel and gone out early on his own.  During the course of our conversation I did say to him – he would love New Zealand.

In the 6th Century BC, Samos was ruled by the famous tyrant Polycrates.  During his reign, led by the engineer Eupalinos, a tunnel was dug through Mount Kastro to build an aqueduct to supply the ancient capital of Samos with fresh water.  With a length of more than one kilometre, the Eupalinian aqueduct was a marvel of ancient engineering, being the earliest tunnel in history to be dug from both ends in a methodical manner and is now part of UNESCO’s World Heritage Site, the Pythagoreion.  For an admission fee of 4 Euro, you are able to walk a reasonable distance into the tunnel where the air was so wonderfully cool.

Then taking the other fork in the road, I walked up to the Monastery of Spiliani, with the little chapel in a cave and splendid views of the town of Pythagorio.  Once back in the town, a visit to the Archaeological Museum of Pythagorio before continuing on to the beautiful Holy Church of the Metamorphosis.  After the great victory at Mikali on 6 August 1824 when the island was saved by a miracle, the leader of the revolution in Samos, Lykourgos Logothetis, decided to build the church as an expression of thanks and gratitude to Almighty God ,who blessed and gave the victory to the Greek fighters against the Turks.  Lykourgos Castle next door  was built in the beginning of the 19th Century.  

Is it any wonder I sometimes think – can it get any better?  The Greek glories of the Past, the Present and hopefully, the Future.

View of St George beach from my balcony - Agathonissi

A return to the very busy Ouzeri/Fish Taverna Xiliomodi on my last night in Patmos for fresh grilled fish with patates tiganetes and a glass of ouzo.  As tables were vacated, new patrons were waiting to immediately re-occupy them, such is the popularity of the establishment – certainly the finest I found in Skala.  When I arrived back at Villa Zacharo Hotel, my new friends Poppy, Margarita, Jacob’s wife Rula and her mum invited me to join them where they sat outside enjoying the coolness of the evening.  Before leaving Patmos yesterday, I met two French guys, both of whom command a similar level of understanding of the Greek language as I do, having spent a great deal of time here in Greece.  One of them relayed an interesting story to me about his I-Pod – when they arrived on Patmos it was not working, however, after he visited the Cave of the Apocalypse with it in his possession, it worked!  Jacob phoned ahead to Agathonissi and arranged a room for me here – I should look out for the German lady wearing a green cap who would be waiting for me on my arrival.  

As Jacob drove me the short distance to the port, he relayed to me a very interesting analogy of the Greek people and their outlook on life – what is important to them and in what order.  Firstly, their health.  Secondly, to always enjoy life and to care about others and thirdly, money.  I think this helps to understand why life here is so agreeable.  A little wait before commencing the two hour ferry ride to Agathonissi via the island of Arki, however, the age old occupation of people watching can always be put into practice.  The handsome port police (women too) in their uniforms and calf high laced boots – in general, a lot more travellers than I have seen up until now and on a very hot, windy day.  

Met in Agathonissi by Rena and we walked the short distance to my room above Cafe Yetousa – right on the lovely, lovely beach at St George, the village and only port on this beautiful island which is such a quiet and peaceful place.  Next door at Taverna Glaros, where the goat, cheese and vegetables are all locally produced and organic, I have been enjoying my lunches and dinner.  With the beach on my doorstep, it has also been an opportunity to work a little on the suntan and enjoy cooling off in the clear, blue waters.  A fantastic island for relaxing holidays but probably not somewhere I would choose to permanently live.  

Rena and her Greek husband Vangelis are raising four kid goats, two sets of twins who lost their mothers and Rena has just set off with their 13 year old daughter Katerina and a large container of milk to feed them.  Last evening I was speaking with Ingrid and Thomas, a Swedish couple from Stockholm who told me all the goat fences on the island make it difficult to follow paths (walking is the only way of getting around if you do not have wheels) and so it helped prepare me for my walk to Megalo Horio and Catholiko and return this morning.  

Refugees arriving on Agathonissi from Turkey at night under the cover of darkness continues, however, I understand the problem is now not as great as it was during the past couple of years when literally thousands of men, women and children were coming ashore and creating a humanitarian dilemma.  Often not having eaten for days and in need of food and dry clothing, they destroy their boats to prevent the authorities here from sending them back.  These migration flows are directed by smugglers and corrupt Turkish officials.  The EU are now sending people to work the border patrols and last night I watched as a patrol boat left port with the local port police and two men dressed in white tee shirts, navy blue pants and jackets.  Today they are all back in St George and I wonder if their mission was successful.   

Next week from 19-25 July the International Film Festival of Patmos will take place, something I missed out on by just a few days.  Never mind, tomorrow I move on yet again, this time to the island of Samos.