Itisallgreek2me

Location of "Victoria Guesthouse" (umbrellas in courtyard) Damouhari

The cobble-stoned path I had just descended is known as “Kagiolia”, constructed in the 19th Century in order to connect Damouhari port with Tsagarada and other villages of east Pelion.  These days it is known as a lovely walk leading to isolated beaches.  It is not normally used as an entrance way to Damouhari and certainly not carrying a heavy pack during the hottest hours of the day.

Wanting to be noticed by as few people as possible, I gingerly made my way along the path behind the beach.  Although intent on finding a room somewhere, no matter what it cost, I found myself discounting the first couple of establishments.  Then I saw the sign “Victoria Guesthouse” www.godamouhari.com  and a man from the Mini Market next door spoke with me.  He said, sorry, we have no room for tonight, however, from tomorrow we will have something available.  I think he must have felt sorry for me as when I asked if I could leave my pack there while I went on a search elsewhere, he took me upstairs where he showed me a room that could possibly be available. 

Greeks from Thessaloniki had made a booking, however, until then had not put in an appearance.  He would try to telephone them.  Meanwhile, he said I should rest a little in the courtyard where soon, cold water and a welcoming frappe were awaiting me.  The first telephone call, no reply – second telephone call around 1830 hours, no reply.  He said, if again at 1930 hours there is no reply, the room is yours.  If the people arrive, we will erect a tent for you to sleep in tonight, you will not find a room anywhere.  Meanwhile, please come to eat dinner with us – Victoria’s delicious Moussaka, salad and wine, followed by wonderful Crepes made by Christina, a lovely French lady staying here with her family.

Believing in what is meant to be, will be and remembering how many times, especially on this intrepid journey, everything has fallen into place for me, I was very happy although not surprised, when by 1930 hours, the Greeks had not shown and the room was mine, for as many days as I wish to stay.  Although at the top of my budget range, I love this place so much, I hope to stay for a week.  The business is run by a family who also own “Ghermaniko”, a traditional hotel close by.  Their dedication to making all guests and customers feel at home cannot be faulted.  What is more, this place and this family seem to attract the nicest of people.  Christina and her family from France, an Israeli family I met this morning who have today moved on to Makrinitsa, and many others.

Last evening Christina introduced me to Rainer Winter, the Director of a documentary titled “Manolis Drosos”, adding that a screening of the film was to take place last night here in the courtyard.  Filmed in 1983 in Damouhari, when it was still a fishing village and Mouresi, it is about Manolis, a local fisherman and typical figure of Damouhari in those days.  The film portrays Manolis’ philosophy of life, a simple fisherman and maybe the last popular philosopher in the area.  Of 90 minutes duration, it shows the beauty that is being lost and the way to maintain the authenticity that still remains.  As fatigued as I was, I came downstairs for the screening – wonderful viewing, so glad to have had the opportunity. 

Tuesday evening back in Makrinitsa, I noticed a Turkish lady with her young daughter, they were dining at the same Taverna as me.  On Wednesday I spoke to Elchin as they waited for a bus back to Volos and she mentioned that a friend of hers had recently been in Damouhari.  Last night as we waited for the screening of the film to commence, who should speak to me, none other than Elchin – it can be such a small world.  Elchin and I have had several conversations now, another intrepid traveller although she does have her 5 year old daughter with her.

Here in Damouhari there is the beach and then the port.  “Victoria Guesthouse” is located in the port, barely 10 metres from the sea, which in September 2007, was the setting for the harbour of the island where the “Mama Mia” movie story supposedly took place.  It is where Merryl Streep received her two old friends who came for her daughter’s wedding.  It was also the main setting for the song “Dancing Queen”.  They built a kind of wooden marina and the big abandoned building next door to “Victoria Guesthouse” was part of the set.  From all accounts, the visitors were co-operative and friendly and in particular, Merryl Streep the locals say was lovely – charming, very fit and active (do you think it could also be me who they are describing)?

Today I have not ventured anywhere, however, I will be staying on for at least a few days.  A spate of heavy showers this morning were welcomed by the locals and I, having kept me grounded, however, holidaymakers with just a few days will be pleased to see blue skies and sunshine now returning.  Yesterday was such a difficult day when I had need to focus my mind on arriving in a safe location and I did not bother to stop along the way for photographs.  Over the next few days, I will endeavour to retrace at least part of yesterday’s road, as well as explore the area so photographs will follow.

Made my final descent from the pagoda to Damouhari beach

Thursday in Makrinitsa I spent quietly, perhaps unknowingly building up courage and strength to help me on the road yesterday.  Farewelled Hotel Achilles at 0930 hours, purchased a hortopita (pastry filled with delicious greens) from the bakery next door, then set off slowly down the road to await my bus, which duly arrived on time at 1045 hours.  By 1130 hours I was back in the Bus Station of Volos, with a temperature of 34 degrees C and a two hour wait for the bus to Tsagarada.

I had not anticipated a journey of such duration, heading firstly down the West coast as far as Kala Nera, then a left turn along another twisting, winding, mountain road through olive groves, apple orchards and forests, eventually arriving in Tsagarada around 1530 hours.  Fortunately, I had scored the front seat, meaning my eyes could follow the contours of the road and this definitely helps equilibrium.  With a smoking, talking-on-his-mobile-while-driving ‘species’ of driver, is it any wonder there are a few near misses!

Tsagarada, where I had intended to stay, is made up of four separate areas and very sprawling.  I left the bus at Agios Paraskevi where in the Square, there is a 1,000 year old plane tree, possibly the oldest in the world.  Not long after my arrival, I spoke with a lady, also from New Zealand, however, she had a very English accent, having left Dunedin some years’ ago.  I tried to help her to find where it was she needed to go, however, I figured Anilio was some distance away and that whoever had told her to get off the bus where she did, had completely put her wrong.  I hope that she eventually made her way to the retreat she was looking for.  Gave her my card with website address so if you should be reading this, you may like to email me or leave a comment – I would be interested to hear how you made it to Anilio.

Loyal readers and followers may remember that at the end of my last blog, I wrote about probably moving on to Tsagarada, with beaches of the Aegean Sea in easy reach (well, they are not) or perhaps to one of those beaches.  As my search for a room in Tsagarada was proving difficult, I saw a sign and a walking track to Damouhari.  A passerby told me walking there would take me about an hour.  I decided I wanted to go there and I believed I had time.  The path was one of those old cobble-stoned ones, great whilst it lasted but unfortunately, as so often seems to have been the case, I arrived at the end with no clear direction of where to from there.  I could see the Aegean far, far away, below the mountain and cliffs I was descending, however, with no sign of a settlement or indication of where I should go.  So, with visions of sleeping out under a tree or on a beach somewhere, I carried on, eventually sighting a man of whom I asked the question, if I take this dirt road, will it lead me to Damouhari?  He was a visitor to the area and did not know.  He summoned a lady from the house who bought me a glass of cold water and told me yes, that road will take you to Damouhari, about 15 minutes walk! 

Past experience told me it would take me much longer and in fact, it was about 30 minutes before, there in the distance below, the sight of a beach and the village of Damouhari – Eureka! – I had found where I wanted to go.  Descending the stone-cobbled path was better than any gym workout.  I was feeling so hot, my clothes were wet and the sweat was dripping from my body on to the stones.  I was thinking to myself, who will want to rent me a room when I am looking so dreadful? 

Part II “Arrival and first night in Damouhari” to follow.

Mountain village of Makrinitsa - The Pelion

We are told the climate is heating up!  Certainly yesterday here in Greece, we suffered through one of the hottest days this summer and with high levels of humidity, the highest temperature recorded – 39 degrees C.  Although it is rare for Greece to experience a heatwave in August, way back in 1956, the temperature reached an astonishing 47 degrees C and some 600 people died.  Last Saturday 14 August, 41 degrees C was recorded in Athens.  The good news is, temperatures are expected to drop later in the week which hopefully will also mean, better sleep.  

In light of the above, I am forced to spend the greater part of the day in relaxation, not a bad thing when I can sit out on my balcony at Hotel Achilles and take in all that is happening in the Square below.  Early yesterday morning I enjoyed a lovely walk through the cobble stone paths of Makrinitsa, admiring the traditional stone built houses and mansions with their grey coloured roofs made from local slate.  The village extends from it’s lowest part at an altitude of 350m, to 700m at it’s highest.  With more than 50 water fountains in Makrinitsa, there are plenty of opportunities to refill your water bottle.  

Facilities and services are limited here and by far the greatest majority of the shops sell souvenirs and local products.  With over 1,000 species of plants and herbs with pharmaceutical and medicinal value to be found in the area, dried herbs and herbal teas are popular, as well as Pelion spoon sweets and jams, olive oil and herb flavoured vinegars.  

Today I have walked to the nearest village of Portaria – also beautiful, however, my personal preference would have to be Makrinitsa.  On the way back, I took a monopati (old path) next to a stream, up through a tree studded ravine of chestnut, oak, beech and poplar.  On reaching the top of the old path, I returned back the same way, passing a group of Greeks just setting out, who wanted to know if it was beautiful and how long would it take them?  Yes, I said, it was very beautiful, however, without good walking shoes (they were all wearing jandals) the path would not be so easy.  

Looking over now at the village of Portaria bathed in sunshine, it is difficult to imagine how in Winter, it can be covered in snow.  With the Ski Centre of Agriolefkes nearby, Portaria is a popular Winter destination.  After spending more than 2 weeks away from the islands and coastal mainland, I am feeling the need to get back to turquoise seas and beautiful beaches.  Therefore, I have in mind to move on Friday, either to Tsagarada, another beautiful mountain village of the Pelion, however, with beaches of the Aegean Sea in easy reach, or perhaps to one of those beaches.

Hotel Achilles, Makrinitsa (Helen's room, top left)

Sunday 15 August was to be as much as possible, a day of rest for me.  I’m afraid the intense heat of the day before, as I walked back to Kalambaka from the Monasteries of Meteora, had drained my level of energy and I felt a desperate need to recharge my batteries.  An early morning walk, to the Cathedral Church of St. Vissarion and the Byzantine Church  of the Assumption of the Virgin 9 – 11 Century, where the faithful were gathering to celebrate Panagia, was about my limit for the day.  

With temperatures predicted to soar above 40 degrees C, I decided this morning it was time to once again move on.  Departed on the bus from Kalambaka at 1000 hours, heading south to the city of Trikala, where I would catch the 1130 hours bus to the port city of Volos.  Travelling through the fertile plains of Thessaly, I was at a loss to know what was the plant which appeared to be the main crop in the area?  A little research since and I now believe it to be cotton.  1400 hours arrival time in Volos worked in nicely to catch my third bus of the day to Makrinitsa at 1430 hours. 

Built between 1204 and 1215 by the Byzantine family Malliasinon, Makrinitsa is a beautiful mountain village on The Pelion peninsular, often referred to as the Balcony of Pelion.  Approximately 17 kilometres from Volos via a twisting road, sitting in the Square of Makrinitsa offers panoramic views of Volos and the Pagasitikos Gulf below.  I had researched where I might stay before my arrival and so I came looking for Hotel Achilles on the Square.  Secured a room with a balcony on the 2nd floor, overlooking the Square – with it’s giant trees which are hundreds of years’ old.  I have this room until Friday for 30 Euro per night (without breakfast) and then if I wish to stay longer, for this price I must move to a room at the back of the building, however, the price will then include breakfast.  No Internet, however, I have registered on a Public Hot-Spot and ironically, the best signal and connection seems to be from here on my balcony. 

I had told myself I would never write in my blogs anything about the daily chore of washing clothes while travelling, however, I have become so adept with this, that I must write something.  Firstly, one should always carry a universal plug in Greece as frequently the hand basin does not have one.  Furthermore, any plug is not guaranteed to hold water long enough for you to wash your clothes as often, in spite of the plug seeming to fit, the water disappears down the drainpipe, as fast as it comes out of the tap.  My latest improvisation – placing a large plastic bag inside the wastepaper basket (I do not mean the container in which you must place your used toilet paper) sitting it in the handbasin and washing in that!  No clothesline? – hangers on shower rails are the answer. 

Tomorrow I will begin to explore my surroundings.  Although Greeks love to come and retreat in Makrinitsa, tourists do not come in droves – most have yet to discover this paradise which is well worth visiting any time of the year.

The Holy Monastery of Rousanou, Meteora

Friday 13 August saw me rise bright and early, keen to move on from Metsovo after a disappointing short stay.  No longer very traditional and I feel overrated.  Furthermore, I found the standard of food served, poor and expensive. 

Left my room at 0840 hours to take a 5 Euro taxi ride to the bus stop below the village, bound for the town of Kalambaka, situated near the famous Monasteries of Meteora.  There I met a lovely Greek lady, we started chatting and when the bus eventually arrived, sat together.  At first, we travelled along the Motorway and through some of the amazing tunnels I have previously written about, the longest 3.6km!  then back to the twisting roads.  

Arrived in Kalambaka late morning and found a room at Hotel Meteora www.hotel-meteora.com for 25 Euro a night, including breakfast.  A small room but quiet and with air conditioning, absolutely necessary as the heat here at present is almost unbearable.  Visited the Laiki (street market) to buy fruit then returned to Taverna Panellinion where my friend Doreen and I ate 6 years’ ago – great food and service.  Despite being hot and crowded, Kalambaka has a good feel – Panellinion will be my place of choice to eat and Hollywood Cafe is where I come to use the Internet. 

A good breakfast this morning before catching the 0830 hours bus to the Holy Monastery of the Great Meteoron, my plan being to visit four of the six monasteries on a slow walk back down to Kalambaka.  Studies suggest that the natural sandstone rock pinnacles were formed around 60 million years’ ago.  The first people to inhabit Meteora were hermit monks in the 9th Century, who lived a life of mainly solitude in caves, meeting only on Sundays and special days for worship and prayer, in a chapel built at the foot of a rock known as Dhoupiani.  

In 1344, Athanasios Koinovitis from Mount Athos brought a group of followers to Meteora and from 1356 to 1372, he founded the Holy Monastery of the Great Meteoron.  The monks were safe from political upheaval as they had complete control of entrance.  The only means of reaching there was by climbing long ladders which they could draw up whenever they felt threatened and baskets or large nets were used to haul up both people and goods.  

Of the more than twenty monasteries built, beginning in the 14th Century, only six remain today, each with fewer than ten inhabitants.  The Holy Monastery of the Great Meteoron is the largest and by far the most interesting one to visit and Varlaam, is the second largest.  St. Nicholas Anapausas has wonderful frescoes, decorated by the Cretan painter Theophanis Strelitzas in 1527.  There is a 2 Euro entrance fee to each Monastery, each one closes on a different day of the week and they all have different opening hours.  To enter, women must wear a skirt below the knees and men long trousers which are provided if you turn up in unacceptable attire. 

Today I visited four of the six monasteries, making it back to Kalambaka some five hours after leaving and I’m still recovering.  No problem with the legs but with the extraordinary heat, however, pleased to have had the experience.

Partial view of Metsovo and Pindos mountains

Metsovo is the centre in Greece of the Vlach people, who claim descent from Latin speaking Wallachians, of what is now Romania and originally, they were shepherds who followed their flocks.  With the vast majority of inhabitants of Metsovo being of Vlach origin, they are bilingual – speaking both Greek and Vlach/Aromanian.  Walking about the streets today, on occasion I heard a little of this strange sounding language.

As in all settlements in Greece, the Plateia (Square) is the centre of life and in Metsovo, that is most certainly the case with one corner seemingly reserved for the elderly Greek men, many of whom arrive and leave, assisted by their walking sticks.  Located next to the Plateia is the beautiful Church of Agia Paraskevi.  In conversation with the person on duty, I learnt that the Church and the massive tree outside, are both some 700 years’ old.

The architecture in Metsovo differs from anything else I have seen in Greece.  Featuring stone and woodwork, many of the houses are like Swiss chalet style and with Mediterranean tiled roofs.  Almost every available square metre of land in between and around the houses has been cultivated with thriving flower gardens and vegetable plots.  Public areas, in particular, are home to some very impressive trees.

I have always believed Metsovo to be a very traditional Greek village and I am sure it was and still is today, however, only up to a point.   Looking down the mountain on to the scared hillsides with motorways and new roads, one understands something of how in many ways, life here has changed.  Old Greece is vanishing!

Looking down into the Vikos Gorge from path to Monodendri

Following Sunday’s marathon trek, Monday became a self imposed day of rest for me and Tuesday, a day for milling around Monodendri and quiet walks.  First, I took the path marked ‘Grounia Place’ 10 minutes, pleasant enough, however, nothing in particular to see.  Second, I ventured down the path to the Vikos Canyon for 20 minutes or so – amazing views from an outcrop but far too hot for me and a return to Monodendri.  Third, a path marked ‘Agios Apostoli’ 15 minutes, again a pleasant walk but seemingly leading nowhere, however, sharing the path with me was a tortoise – I am totally in love with these creatures.    

Back in Monodendri, I decided to visit the Rizarios Handicraft Centre, where the embroidered and woven items for sale were beautiful but expensive.   Greek benefactors Manthos Rizarios 1764-1824 and his younger brother Georgios Rizarios 1769-1842, were born in Monodendri.  Orphaned at an early age, first Manthos and followed later by Georgios, moved to Moscow where they were involved in trade and made their fortunes.  Upstairs there was an impressive photographic exhibition of images, all taken in the area and no doubt, mostly with high quality photographic equipment.  

As with the majority of evenings spent in Monodendri, both nights I ate at the Taverna just off the square on the road to the village’s lower parking area.  They also have tables in the Square but I preferred the atmosphere at the Taverna – excellent food and service.  High season in Monodendri is in the Winter months but personally, I feel it would be well worth a visit in Autumn when the colours would be spectacular.  

Originally I had intended to stay 10 nights, however, without a vehicle, one is limited to the villages in the immediate vicinity and after a week, I felt ready to move on.  With no bus until Friday and hoping to avoid a repeat of the difficult road I had taken to get there, I spoke with the hotel owner, in the hope that he would find me a lift to Ioannina, or at least to a place where a bus would be available.  Cutting a long story short, this morning I hitched a ride in his father’s Mercedes, all the way to the Ktel Bus Station in Ioannina – yippee!  

Still unsure of where I would travel to today, I first asked at the ticket window if there was a bus to Lia (the village of Nicholas Gage and the setting for his great read “Eleni”).  Struck some rude guy who pretended not to know where Lia was and so I moved to another window, only to be told, Ktel have nothing to do with buses to Lia and that guy could not tell me from where I would find out.  So, I made an instant decision and purchased a ticket for the bus to Metsovo, leaving 45 minutes later at 1115 hours, arriving in Metsovo 1230 hours.  Travelling mainly along the E92 in order to drop off and pick up passengers in the villages, however, for a brief time, travelling on the A2 Motorway with it’s amazing number of very long tunnels.  

Located in the Pindos mountains at an altitude of 1160m, Metsovo is a favoured destination for Greeks in August, especially over this coming weekend – 15 August, a unique Feast Day in the Greek Orthodox Church.  The third most important religious holiday after Easter and Christmas, it is traditionally celebrated with church services and panigyria (festivals).  The entire country is virtually shutdown and everyone takes advantage of the long weekend to rest or light a candle for Panagia (Virgin Mary) whose ascent to the heavens is commemorated on this day.  Therefore, I knew I was arriving in a place, at a time when accommodation would be at a premium.  Fortunately, I found a room without much trouble but for 2 nights only.  The rooms are owned by the Apollon Hotel where it would cost me 50 Euro per night, however, the rooms are only 30 Euro per night.   

Two intense days should have me seeing all I want to see here in Metsovo and on Friday I will move on to Kalambaka near the monasteries of Meteora, where I do not expect it will be as busy.

The mountain village of Dilofo

Saturday, I spent quietly around and about Monodendri and catching up on my computer work.  Checked out a place I thought I could walk to yesterday – the mountain village of Dilofo at an altitude of 860m.  No cars allowed – 100 mansions, however, only 10 permanently inhabited – sounded interesting.  At 0900 hours I set off, having calculated it would take me about 1 1/2 hours to walk there.

30 minutes later I was in Vitsa at the top end of Vitsa Steps and at this point, a happy trekker.  A sign indicated a path to the right would take me to Dilofo – time required approximately 60 minutes.  Great!  A little further on I was to meet with my first direction dilemma of the day – red arrows on rocks indicating perhaps that I should take this other path off to the left, which I did, only to find out before too long, I had walked in a circle around to a point part way down the Vitsa Steps.  Oh well, these things happen, I would change plans and go to the Kokoris Bridge and on to the village of Kipi.

From the bottom of Vitsa Steps, the walk from Misiou Bridge to Kokoris Bridge was a beautiful one.  On reaching the Kokoris Bridge, there were no signs to indicate which way a traveller should walk to Kipi, I took the road which turned out to be the wrong way – now I was an unhappy trekker!  I walked and walked thinking that eventually there would be something to indicate to me my whereabouts and eventually, much to my delight and surprise, a road sign on the right, Dilofo 1km – the village I had in mind to visit when I first set out.

I have learnt not to take too much notice of the distances and/or times stated on signs, there seem to be many inconsistencies.  In this case, 1km to Dilofo was bullshit, it was further.  Never mind, 3 hours walking so far but I had reached Dilofo and it was truly beautiful.  I looked around a little before taking my place in the Square for a cold orange drink.  Anxious about how I would get all the way back to Monodendri in the afternoon heat, I asked for directions to the kalderimi or old path, the one which supposedly only takes 60 minutes to Vitsa.  A nice, kindly Greek guy then walked with me to the edge of the village where the sign said Vitsa 60 minutes.  Vitsa and Monodendri could be seen far away in the distance and the Greek guy said, keep going and Vitsa will be in your sight all the way, however, I would come to realise that quite obviously he has never walked the path or he would have known differently.  It was soon after that a momentary highlight in my day occurred – there sitting sunbathing in the grass were two tortoises which I managed to photograph, when the flies and other forms of airborne creatures left me alone long enough.

Once again, I was a happy trekker, believing I was now on the right road and in an hour or so, I would be back in Vitsa.  Not long, however, and all that changed when I came to a place where the road went in two directions, left and right and no signage.  First I took the road to the right – not feeling comfortable with my decision I returned up the hill and took the left road, a steep up and down washed out path which lead me in another big loop and a long way back to Vitsa – in fact, 2 hours and still another 30 minutes walk to Monodendri.  Finally made it back to Monodendri 6 hours after leaving, bought an ice cream and a bottle of water then retired to my room, tired but with a certain level of satisfaction. 

Any wonder that today I am resting!

Cliff walk, path to cave and old bridges, near Monodendri

The charming village of Monodendri is situated near the south end of the Vikos Gorge at an altitude of 1060 metres.  You will not find the colours of blue and white anywhere here – all grey slate and stone, with any new construction built to match the old traditional architecture.  Stone walls and fortress-like gates enclose the courtyards and beautiful stone homes whilst stone laid paths separate them.

Yesterday morning after fortifying body and soul with another of Archontiko Zakarda’s amazing breakfasts, I set off to begin exploring my surroundings.  I walked down to the Plateia (Square) where a path leads to the abandoned Monastery of Agia Paraskevi which was founded in 1412.  It is built on the edge of the Vikos Gorge and from the balcony the views are spectacular.  At the rear of the Monastery I noticed a sign showing the way along a path to a cave and old bridges.  In the beginning it was okay, I could cope with the relative narrowness of the path, however, it eventually became less of a path and more of a strip attached to the cliff face, with a pretty scary drop down on the other side.  (Click on to enlarge and study the photograph on the left and you will see, just below the middle of the image, the path I had to take to get to where I was standing).  A little further on from there and things became even scarier so myself and a Spanish couple all turned back, deciding we were not ready to risk our lives.

On the way back to Monodendri, I took a left turn down a path which lead me to, of all things, the local Sports Stadium.  There as in many places surrounding Monodendri, the scenery rivals our native bush in New Zealand, only here the landscape is one of mainly beech, oak, maple and fig trees.  Once back in the village I took another path by the Church of Agios Athanasios for a short walk to the Angelos Kitsos Theatre and return – after the previous day’s excursion, I felt I had done enough walking for the day and returned to my room before once again, we had a little rain and thunder late afternoon.

The temperatures here seem to drop to around 15 degrees C overnight from highs of around 30 degrees C during the day.  If I want to do any serious walking, which is mainly what I came to Zagori to do, then it is necessary to make an early start immediately following breakfast.  Today I began with a walk along a kalderimi (old paved footpath – from the Turkish word Kaldirim meaning footpath or pavement) in the mountains behind Monodendri.  In places not much of a footpath remains and the only guidance one has is from the red arrows and dots painted on rocks here and there or red ribbons tied to trees, a little like orienteering I guess.  Crazyguyonabike Tristan, who I met on the island of Limnos, gave me the idea of taking photographs of myself.  I had not given it a thought before this, however, you will see my first attempt on the More Photos II page – a hot, sweaty girl!

Two hours after leaving Monodendri I arrived back here, albeit in another place, by which time the bug had got me and I wanted to walk more and so I headed along the road towards the village of Vitsa.  It was not long before I met a lovely elderly Greek man who kindly offered to take me to Vitsa.  He well remembered the New Zealand soldiers here in 1940 who he said fought hard with the Greeks.  A cold drink in the Plateia (Square) and then I was off down the Vitsa Steps to view the Misiou Stone Bridge of Vitsa.  Constructed in 1748 AD, it is one of several single, double and triple arched bridges in the area, erected in the 18th and 19th Centuries.  Financed by local families, the bridges were named after them and formed part of cobblestone roads which linked remote villages until roads were built in the 1950’s.  A hot afternoon climb back up to lower Vitsa, upper Vitsa and on to Monodendri.  Tonight as with every night here, dinner out at one of the many tavernas and an early night to follow. 

With all this mountain walking, miraculously, I have not been stung by a bee or wasp, of which there are many.  My legs are fine, however, my feet do get pretty tired by the end of the day.  The greatest annoyance whilst walking are the flies which hang around as I become hotter, sweatier and dirtier.  If snakes are out there, I have not seen them, nor any Wild Boar, although the latter do appear frequently on local taverna menus.  As for the threatened species of Brown Bears, there are only 150 or so left living in the remotest parts of the Pindus and Rhodope Mountains.  Their survival hinges on one simple truth – if life on this planet is to continue, wildlife and human beings must co-exist.  My final words for today.

My King Size 4 Poster Bed at "Archontiko Zarkada", Monodendri

I was initially thrown by the news last evening of no bus to Monodendri until Friday, however, in true Helen style, this determined traveller wanted to come here today and so I found a way.  The information I was given last night stated I could catch a bus this morning at 0630 hours to Karies, then make auto stop (hitch hike) the 20 or so kilometres from there – Monodendri being approximately 40 kilometres from Ioannina.   

Packed ready everything I could before retiring to bed, then up at 0500 hours this morning and on my way by 0530 hours as I wanted to be sure of making it to the Bus Station in time.  In the cool morning air and darkness, it only took me 20 minutes to walk there with my pack which did not mean time on my side.  Wouldn’t you know it, in true Greek fashion, I was then told the bus departure time was at 0600 hours, not half an hour later!  I requested the driver to tell me when we had arrived at Karies as I was not familiar with the village.  There the bus stopped, the driver got out to open the luggage compartment for me and when I enquired as to the road I should take, he said I had been incorrectly informed, that in fact, I should have been on another bus which would take me to within 10 kilometres of Monodendri.  I then waited whilst he made a telephone call to the other driver and was subsequently told to wait right there and eventually another bus would come along and pick me up.    

It was not long and the second bus arrived.  When eventually it left me on the roadside, I began what I thought could be a very long walk.  Not a problem early in the morning as the air was cool and the sun had not yet risen, however, I did wonder how I would make the 10 kilometre distance should I be so unlucky as to have no one pick me up.  The first car to come along went straight on by, the second flew passed whilst I was otherwise occupied in the bushes.  My luck was in when the third car came along and much to my relief it stopped.  They were two young Greek guys and with a baby car seat and soft toys in the vehicle, I felt I was pretty safe.  They kindly took me as far as the village of Vitsa, at an altitude of 955 metres on a mountain slope near the Vikos Gorge.  From there I walked the final 2-3 kilometres to Monodendri.   

From what I have seen so far, the scenery is breathtakingly beautiful and I just love so much all the wild flowers that grow along the roadsides.  The only scary minutes were when I was met on the road by a humongous dog, snarling and gnashing it’s teeth, I was terrified but could only keep my head down and carry on walking and pray.  As it turned out, he was one of four dogs on the loose, their apparent owner nearby only concerned with his herd of cows he had grazing.   

Checked into my room on the ground floor at the Guest House “Archontiko Zarkada” – for those who are interested, the website  www.monodendri.com then click on the English version, will give you all the lowdown on this establishment.  I have to say, it is very good value.  The owner gave me the okay to have breakfast here this morning – it is included in the room rate, however, normally you only get breakfast after you have stayed the night.  What an exceptional breakfast it was and I felt I had more than earned it.  Pastries savoury and sweet, wholemeal bread, cheese, ham, hard boiled eggs, cereal, yogurt and honey, preserves, cake, loukoumi (Greek turkish delight), fresh fruit, juice, tea and coffee and more – it has kept me going all day.    

After breakfast I remembered to ask whether or not I needed a Password for the WiFi Internet which then led to a room change to the top floor as apparently, there is no connection downstairs.  Wait for it, this is luxury – a king size 4 poster bed, fireplace, TV, refrigerator, enclosed shower box (very rare in Greece) and a balcony with mountain views.   

I have yet to begin exploring the area although I have plenty of time, intending to stay for up to 10 days.  This afternoon around 1600 hours, we had serious rain and the thunder claps were louder than ever I have heard.  I have put on a jacket and feel I will have to dig deep into my pack for clothes not worn since the early days of my adventure.  Tomorrow I should be ready to go check out all that awaits me.