Itisallgreek2me

Spetses (See the Page "More Photos II" for more images - photos 1 - 20)

When I arrived in Athens back in April, at that time, I felt I had a home in Greece on the island of Crete and I still do believe that, however, I now also feel I have a home here on the island of Spetses.  Having realised my dream of travelling extensively throughout this wonderful country and with just 4 weeks’ remaining until I must leave for home, I am content and happy to be here on Spetses with Costas, knowing that I will have many magical memories of precious moments to take with me when I leave.

When I returned to Spetses 9 days’ ago, my intention was to stay here for a week, then return to Crete to see the family and my friends there, allowing myself a couple of weeks at the end to visit two or three of the Cycladic islands.  However, I am not yet ready to move on and will be staying another week, i.e. until next Friday.  That day I will leave for Piraeus, the port of Athens and take the overnight ferry to Hania in Crete, stay on Crete for 2 weeks, then back to Spetses for my final week in Greece – for now!

Summer has left and Autumn has arrived.  The days are filled with glorious sunshine and time spent at the beach is quite heavenly – the water is warm, salty and so buoyant, I do not think you could drown in it even if you wanted to.  The intense heat of the summer sun has gone making sunbathing a lot more comfortable and pleasurable.  In the evenings I wander on down to Bar Spetsa, often staying until closing and then Costas and I go out somewhere together for a quiet drink – I am in heaven!  Costas sometimes cooks but we often eat out too – English breakfast, pizza, traditional Greek, there are many very good restaurants and cafes.  One day I decided his garden was badly in need of some attention – embarked on a labour of love, clearing weeds and so on – now you are able to see the beautiful stoned courtyard showing the date 1895 – the year the original part of the house was built.  Back then it was probably a storehouse and the other rooms have been added on since.

I still hold firm my dream to one day retire to Greece.  If I am on my own when that time comes, then I believe Crete is still the most likely place that I would settle.  I do not believe Costas would ever leave Spetses and if we were to be together, I would equally be quite happy to settle here, however, I must leave time to take care of all.

Today on my walk down to the beach (the same route I take to go to Bar Spetsa at night) I decided to take photographs along the way so that you all can visualise Spetses – the Paradise I have found!  (Refer to the Page “More Photos II” images marked photos 1 – 20).

Fireworks display - "Armata" celebrations - Spetses

In Spetses town this weekend, all accomodation is fully booked and the Old Harbour is filled with boats, as visitors come to the island for the “Armata” festival.  Each year, the Saturday closest to 8 September is dedicated to celebrating the events of the Naval Battle of Spetses which took place on 8 September 1822, culminating with the historical re-enactment of the torching and sinking of the Turkish flagship in the harbour.  Normally a famous Greek singer will perform live and at 2200 hours there is a massive fireworks display by the harbour.  This year, the course of events was very much dictated to by the weather.

I awoke yesterday at 1015 hours to the sound of rain on the roof – heavy rain and then thunder.  By mid afternoon when we ventured out for lunch,  it appeared that the weather may have cleared enough for everything to take place according to the programme.  Unfortunately, that was not to be.  Around 2000 hours the skies opened – a huge deluge leaving the streets running torrents of water and there was some doubt as to whether or not the fireworks display would go ahead.  When I arrived at Bar Spetsa, the few early patrons were sitting on chairs and stools in a pool of water, outside the Bar the street was flooded and Costas was doing his best to sweep away the water – not a good beginning to the evening!  However, as people were still making their way down to the harbour, the powers that be obviously saw a window of opportunity and began the show of fireworks early and what a spectacular show it was.  Although many people were soaked to the bone, it seemed nothing was going to stop them from having a good time and I would guess the revellery continued on until daybreak.   Apparently last year conditions were not a great deal better.

So, apart from the events of last evening, I am just enjoying the precious days I have to spend here with Costas, every night a few hours in Bar Spetsa, dining out and going to the beach whenever possible.  A more private time on this amazing and wonderful journey – living my dream.

My handsome friends, Bob and Oliver, Costas' house - Spetses

I had travelled to Limni on Evia, expecting to spend a couple of days relaxing on the beach, before my much anticipated return to Spetses and Costas.  The first day we had rain and overcast skies.  Tuesday morning I headed for the nearest beach where I managed just two and a half hours of glorious sun, occasionally interrupted by clouds.  My host Maddi had kindly invited me to have lunch with her and her husband Stathis, it was Maddi’s birthday but I did not find that out until after my arrival.  We had lovely salmon wrapped in proschetto, three different salads and wine – all very healthy.  Maddi and I found plenty of things to talk about and it was not until 1800 hours that I returned to my apartment, with a pizza they had given me for my tea.  Many of the people of Limni began celebrating the Virgin’s birthday that night and the loud music continued until 0430 hours, unfortunately, affording one a minimum of sleep. 

Yesterday, in brilliant sunshine, I left Limni on the 1130 hours bus back to Chalkida.  In the mountains, not far out of Limni, crowds were coming and going from a church, the centre of Panagia (Virgin Mary) celebrations held every year on 8 September.  Some people boarded our bus to return to their villages, carrying pots of food, bread and bags of apples.  The driver had a conversation with one such passenger, an elderly lady dressed in black who was carrying a pot of food.  He was concerned she might spill it in his bus but she replied he had nothing to worry about, it was in a plastic bag and basically, shut up – speak only if I spill it!  Just another one of those moments of simple amusement.  

Arriving in Chalkida there was only time to buy my ticket, eat a little bread, a hurried toilet stop and on another bus bound for Athens.  I had telephoned Costas the night before to say that I could be delayed as the public transport workers were going to strike in Athens yesterday from 1100 to 1600 hours.  I arrived in the big city around 1520 hours, then learnt that I had a good 20 minutes walk in 32 degree C heat to the nearest Metro Station “Attiki”.  Managing to squeeze on to the first train out of there at 1600 hours, it took me only to Syntagma.  There the crowds were 10 fold, however, I made it on to another train to Monastiraki Station where I changed to the third train headed for the port of Piraeus.  With such a fight for bums on seats, once on the third train and able to take off my back pack, I was quite happy to stand.  In Piraeus, I bought my ticket for the Hellenic Seaways catamaran “Flying Cat 2” which I boarded at 1715 hours then telephoned Costas to let him know I would be arriving in Spetses at 1925 hours.

As expected, I received a warm welcome from Costas who was waiting at the port to greet me.  When we arrived at his house, two of his four cats (all rescued from the streets) namely Bob and Oliver, also extended a warm welcome – like I was a long lost friend.  Shortly after, Costas needed to go to work at Bar Spetsa but I followed about an hour later after I had had time to unpack, shower and change – it had been a long, sweaty journey.  Just like during my time here earlier this year, at the beginning of the evening we had time to sit and talk, then it gets busy.  I drank my two 5 Star Metaxa brandies on the rocks and my two bottles of water, retiring at 0100 hours.  Costas finished at 0500 hours, it can be as late as 0700 hours and he does this every day from the 1st of April until the 31st of October, year after year, which is very tiring.  Bar Spetsa is successful because of him, the music he plays, the atmosphere and the drinks – you will not find more generous servings anywhere, nor will you always find drinks true to the bottle label as you do in Bar Spetsa – it is such a great place!

As of 1 September, a new Law here in Greece supposedly forbids smoking in indoor public places – an interesting concept when the Greeks do whatever they want to do, not what they are told to do.  Apparently, there is to be some leniency during the first month, however, after that a 60 Euro fine for the perpetrator and a 600 Euro fine for the owner of the establishment.  From what I have observed in the first week, it ain’t going to work! 

Unbelievable weather here today on Spetses, still very warm.  Before meeting up with Costas at Bar Spetsa at 1400 hours to go out for lunch, I called in to see Susan at Mexis Studios, where I stayed earlier in the year.  Susan said she knew I would come back!  Since Costas does not have the Internet, Susan has very kindly said I can come here and sit in the garden anytime I want to go on line.  Costas and I, we had a yummy lunch at “Spetsiotiko” – a restaurant on the sea front – he has gone to sleep while I take time to write and update my blog.  Of course, tonight I will return to keep him company at Bar Spetsa.

Limni - Evia (Euboea)

Dining with Janet and Dimitris for the last time on Saturday night was a real treat.  If you are thinking that fish would be in abundance and cheap here, I can tell you it is neither.  However, a friend of Dimitris’ had given him a bag full of small freshly caught fish which Janet had beheaded and cleaned, then floured and fried – what I call “food to die for” – and what we did not manage to finish, well, the cats were waiting.  Then, not long after we began eating, Dimitris received a telephone call from his friend to say he had more fish to collect, which he did and they smelt like pure sea!  

Before taking the 1215 hours bus yesterday to the port of Linaria, Janet served our last Greek coffee together in the courtyard then walked with me to the bus stop and waited until I was on my way.  The same ferry “Achilleas” which had brought me to Skyros a mere five days’ earlier would take me the one hour 40 minute ride to Kymi, Evia (Euboea) and from there, a bus to Chalkida on the western side and another north to Limni.  When we arrived in Kymi it was raining, two Athens bound coaches were filling up with passengers and I was told by the driver to get on the first one.  There seemed to be much confusion but especially for me when a little way into the journey, I was told I must get off and wait to get on the other bus which would stop for me in Chalkida. 

Evia (Euboea) is the second largest Greek island in population and area after Crete.  During the last decade, they have suffered from the extremes of severe snowstorms and devastating forest fires.  Unlike Northern Evia (Euboea) the Southern region is quite barren, uninteresting and unexciting, at least as much as I saw of it yesterday.  I had been to Chalkida many years’ ago and had remembered how close it is to the mainland.  Since 411 BC there has been a bridge here across the Euripus Strait, where an extraordinary tide can change direction many times a day – a current like river in one direction that then changes to the other and no one really understands why.  Nowadays, there is also a modern suspension bridge further south.  I was in Chalkida for just 15 minutes before catching my fourth bus of the day, to Limni in Northern Evia.  I was told approximately two hours journey and when I could see the sea, I would know we had arrived.  The route there travels inland through forested mountains, interspersed with plateaus where cotton, grapes and vegetables grow.  There are grasslands and freshly cut hay and everywhere you look, you see beehives.  In many places in between villages there are also large roadside tavernas.  

Limni is a beautiful village sitting on a mountain slope overlooking the sea.  From Skyros I had emailed two places regarding a room and heard nothing, however, I had remembered the name “Eviali Apartments” www.eviali.com   In the town I asked for directions and eventually with those “Greek” directions I found my way here, where I have a nice apartment, 200 metres from the sea.  By this time it was 2000 hours and I was hungry so decided to go look for the super market – it was closed – ended up sitting at a seaside taverna for a meal.  Walking back later and my mobile rang – it was Maddi (from Sydney) and Stathis at Eviali Apartments inviting me to join them for dinner, the shame was I had already eaten. 

Somewhere on Evia, the British composer – Sir John Tavener, spends a great deal of his time.  His composition “Song for Athene” was performed at the funeral of Diana, Princess of Wales, in 1997. 

I came here hoping to spend a couple of days relaxing on the beach in sunshine before I head back to Spetses – bad luck kid, today it has been raining!  For now, the rain has stopped, however, there remains an overcast sky and it is the coolest day I have experienced for a very long time.  My fingers are crossed in the hope that it will clear later in the day or at least by tomorrow.

Anna, Janet and Dimitris at "Atherinis" - Skyros

I was sitting in the courtyard early on Wednesday evening, awaiting Anna’s arrival, when suddenly we heard the bus up on the road and Janet and I ran up the drive to meet her.  Just as had happened the previous night when I had arrived, Anna literally dropped her luggage in our room and we came down to the courtyard for a few wines and mezes.  

Amazingly, Anna and Janet share the same star sign “Aries” and were born in the same year (the one after me).  Both women had premonitions of a major world changing event just before the death of Princess Diana.  Anna’s hero is Mick Jagger – Mick is also Janet’s hero and in fact, some years’ ago she worked as a Girl Friday for The Rolling Stones and The Kinks had their office downstairs.  Actually, Janet has met so many music stars from the 60’s and 70’s, including Ian Anderson from Jethro Tull, my favourite band of all time and she says he is a lovely guy.  She has the same sentiments of Annie Lennox whom she once spent time with whilst holidaying on the Greek island of Corfu.  

There is almost always music playing here in the courtyard.  Last evening when I came down, there were candles glowing on every table, Janet said for about only the third time this year.  She never does anything unless she really feels it is what she wants to do – you cannot help but feel and be affected by the positive energy that is here at “Atherinis” – I have no doubt, it is a very special place. 

That first night Anna was here, we did not go to bed until the early hours of Thursday morning.  Thursday evening Janet and Dimitris invited us to have dinner with them – Lasagna, patates tiganetes, salad and naturally, plenty of wine.  Last evening the same thing happened again only this time it was a delicious chicken meal with a beetroot salad (including the tops), patates tiganetes and more wine.  The best fried potatoes I have ever tasted and Janet shared with us her secret way of cooking them.  Today Dimitris arrived home with small fish for tonight’s meal which it took Janet 1 1/2 hours to clean and all the neighbourhood cats turned up looking for their share.  A family of very clean rats, Ilias, his partner and babies live amongst the trees and on top of the courtyard roof, where they are able to find an abundance of fruit and nuts to eat.  They race along the upper railings, sometimes stopping for a short time to look and to listen. 

With such a feeling of belonging here, we have not ventured too far, however, on Thursday we went up to the town and found the Statue to commemorate the English poet, Rupert Brooke (3 August 1887 – 23 April 1915).  Although he never lived on Skyros, he died on a French hospital ship moored off the island and is buried here and the Skyrians see him as some kind of hero. 

That same day we spent a long time at the Manos Faltaits Museum.  Established in 1964, it is one of the oldest folk art museums in Greece with only the Benaki Museum in Athens being older.  The Museum embraces the history and culture of Skyros from the post Byzantine period to the present day and is housed in the residence of the “Faldai” family.  In the Gallery you can see a collection of representative paintings by Manos Faltaits, paintings in a unique style which cannot be easily classified.  In the shop, originals and reproductions are available for sale. 

I had hoped that while I was here on the island, I would get to see at least one of the ancient horses known as Skyrian ponies, however, it is not to be.  They are a protected species, their numbers are decreasing and although moves are in place to preserve them, it maybe too late.  They have small bodies, a relatively large head, big eyes and nostrils and a large, strong neck in comparison to their shoulder blades and chest.  With long hair, an arched back and a large belly, they are in various shades of brown and copper or the more rare white and grey. 

Sadly, I fare-welled Anna this morning at 0600 hours.  With the time constraints she has and an earlier ferry being available today, she was more likely to make it to the island of Hydra, without necessitating a night’s stopover in Athens.  When I came down to the courtyard around 0945 hours, Janet told me of the 7.1 magnitude earthquake back home in Christchurch and the plane crash at Fox Glacier which killed nine, including four persons from overseas.  It was and still is very hard to believe – only last night we were talking about the number of Greek islands which have suffered from earthquakes in our lifetime and I had said, not knowing then what had happened in the early hours of Saturday morning, that it was only a matter of time before a big one would strike somewhere in New Zealand. 

Tomorrow I leave Skyros for a stay of three nights in Limni on the island of Evia before returning to Spetses on Wednesday to see my friend Costas and to be part of the annual Armata Festival, celebrations in memory of the sea battle of Spetses – 8 September 1822.  As I pass through Athens, I will complete a circuit which has taken me all the way around mainland Greece and the Greek islands and with just six weeks of my journey remaining.

Looking down on the cubed, flat roofed houses of Skyros

Monday afternoon on Skopelos, the weather improved enough to allow me a final afternoon of relaxation and sun by the pool, the venue for that evening’s dinner.  A good turnout of some 18 or so, including French, German, American, Danish and of course, a Kiwi!  A delicious meal of barbecued meats and souvlaki, salads, toasted bread with a little olive oil and garlic, all washed down with either beer or wine.  After dinner there was an opportunity for those who wanted to learn a little Greek dancing.  Once again Sophie showed us all what a wonderful and generous person she is.

After spending six nights on Skopelos, yesterday came my time to leave and Sophie drove me to the port to catch the ferry boat “Achilleas” at 1345 hours, bound for the island of Skyros, via Alonissos and Kymi, Evia.  A pleasant 6 1/2 hour journey on a slow ferry, much like it always used to be in the old days.  A good number of passengers, however, not overcrowded and a beautiful, in fact, perfect day for sitting out on the deck.  A number of dogs also of various breeds, most of whom thought the territory should be theirs, and theirs alone, making their point known by barking whenever another canine creature came anywhere near them.  Not to be forgotten, also one or two cats in cages, letting the whole world know of their plight and a couple of caged birds too.

Shortly before our 2010 hours scheduled arrival on Skyros, a beautiful sunset.  Although partly obscured behind clouds, the perfect ending to our ferry boat ride.  We arrived at the port of Linaria where a bus meets the ferry to take people to the capital Chora, some 10-12 kilometres away.  I asked to be dropped off opposite the petrol station, 600 metres before the town, where Janet, who is English and Dimitris from Atherinis Apartments www.simplelifeskyros.com were awaiting me.  Immediately I knew that yet again I had arrived at a place which was where I was meant to be and that Anna too would feel she belongs here.  Literally dumped my belongings in our accommodation and went down to the courtyard for a wine (their own) with my new hosts.

Janet and Dimitris describe Atherinis as a peaceful oasis on a beautiful unspoilt island, where they create an atmosphere that is friendly, relaxed, informal and fun.  Situated 800 metres from the beach, the house and apartments are set in lovely grounds amid grapevines, olive and fig trees.  Janet was introduced to Reiki on the island of Skyros in 1990 and the lifestyle, values and upheld traditions of the people here inspired her to change her life and reiki helped her to achieve it.  She feels passionate about Skyros and reiki and loves to share both with others by facilitating classes.  On my first night here, there was much to talk about and share – I guess it was around three hours later when I returned to the apartment to unpack and sleep.

Unsure of what time Anna would arrive today, I had first to make a trip to the supermarket for provisions and then I was free to take a walk up to Chora.  Wandering through the cobbled paths and alleyways, lined with cubed, flat roofed houses, reminiscent of a Cycladic island and with so many small chapels, unintentionally, I found myself outside the doors to the Byzantine Monastery of Agios Georgios up on the Kastro.  I had read that the Monastery was fully operational until  it was seriously damaged in a 2001 earthquake, then subsequently closed.  Since that time a part of it has been restored and one monk resides there, however, only opening the doors for limited hours.  I photographed the marble lion inset in the stone wall – hopefully I will get to go back there with Anna.

From the far side of the town there are views up and down the coastline and to the long, sandy beaches of Molos and Magazia below, where most of the tourists are accommodated.  Early evening and I’m once again in the courtyard.  Certain that Anna will feel the same way as I do about Atherinis, I impatiently await her arrival.

The Swimming Pool - Sophie's place, Skopelos

As was anticipated, in the early afternoon of Saturday, I moved from my apartment (the largest in the complex) to my studio (the smallest in the complex) – very cosy and still with sea views, plus mountain views behind.  After lunch – self catering has become the normal and accepted form of eating and drinking for me these last few days – I made my way up the path, by the olive trees, passed the tennis court, to the swimming pool, 150 metres away.  Since Sophie lost Takis, her husband, suddenly 4 years’ ago, the busy restaurant by the pool has been closed.  The setting is really peaceful and tonight Sophie will grill some meats and put on a dinner there for some of her guests. 

Yesterday I decided to take the local bus and go check out Glossa, a town 30 kilometres north where the traditional style homes cascade down a hillside.  The journey there and back first takes you south to Stafilos and then heads north through pine forests and by many beautiful beaches on the west coast – an opportunity to see a lot more of the island.  It was in Glossa that I observed an old wooden balcony with it’s original toilet or “out-house” at one end (see More Photos II). 

Once exploring Glossa was over, I began my walk down to the tranquil fishing port of Loutraki 2 kilometres below, a hot walk beginning by taking the main road and finishing along an old path.  A picturesque little settlement offering accommodation, cafes and tavernas and a pleasant beach adjacent to the port.  Across the water the island of Skiathos can easily be seen and ferries call in to Loutraki port en route to Skopelos town.  The sea looked very inviting, however, with limited time until the next bus departure to Skopelos and not wishing to wait another two hours for the next one, I missed out on a swim.  In any case, the sun had left me feeling not so well and heading back was the best option. 

In the evening, as it so happened, Sophie was driving to Glisteri beach for a swim and asked me to join her.  I went along for the ride and to keep Sophie company and after her swim, she suggested we visit the taverna there for a drink.  We ordered two beers and a special Skopelos Cheese Pie – made with filo pastry and stuffed only with Skopelos feta cheese, it is rolled then curled into a circular shape and deep fried in olive oil – crispy and delicious!  The night was warm and without a breath of wind and it was very easy to sit there, relaxed and talking, for at least a couple of hours.  

Sometime during the early hours of this morning, the weather changed as it was forecast to do.  I awoke to window shutters banging and today so far, it is mostly cloudy skies and a slightly choppy sea.  Hopefully the weather will not put a dampener on our dinner tonight by the pool.

Advertising exhibition of paintings and ceramics by Ingrid Pintgen and opening night piano recital by David Lane

Originally planned for Monday evening, the 23rd, an excursion on The Glass Bottom Boat “Sporades Queen I” to the neighbouring island of Alonissos was postponed until Thursday, the 26th, due to high winds.  Of course, on Monday I was still staying in Damouhari on The Pelion.  The reason for the excursion was to attend the opening night of an exhibition of paintings and ceramics by Ingrid Pintgen, a Dutch lady and piano recital by David Lane who is English, at The Alonissos (Pirate) Museum in Patitiri.  The lovely Sophie who owns the accommodation where I am staying here on Skopelos, asked me if I would like to go with her and Stasi, a lady from Poland who has been living here for four years and works for Sophie.  As the cost for the boat trip was only 10 Euro, I decided it would be a great opportunity to see something of Alonissos and also, it would make a change from the usual things one does when visiting the Greek Islands.  

In perfect weather, we set off from Skopelos town, where cafes and restaurants, mulberry and plane trees line the harbour.  Departure 1830 hours, arriving at Patitiri just 35 minutes later.  Not a particularly charming settlement and I can only assume, that following the 1965 earthquake in which the island suffered heavy damage, new housing was hastily constructed with very little thought being given to character or image.  The one exception being The Alonissos (Pirate) Museum, founded in 2000 by Kostas and Angela Mavrikis, it is the largest privately owned museum on any Greek island.  A four-storey building displaying the cultural inheritance of the island, the museum also focuses on weapons and objects used in the early days by the pirates of the Aegean Sea.  

With a cup of wine in hand, there was plenty of time to look at all the museum exhibits and to view Ingrid’s exhibition of paintings and ceramics, before David’s piano recital began.  With limited seating on the balcony where he played, many of us chose to sit out in the Cafe on the balcony above and look down on what was happening below, the only drawback to this being, when he played quieter pieces, it was a little difficult to hear.  I kept company with Michael who lives on Skopelos and a relative of his – Amy, a delightful 17 year old who travelled alone for the first time to spend two weeks on Skopelos.  The magic of a red moon rising up from the Aegean Sea as we sat there on the balcony – a perfect compliment to the evening.  I promised to email Amy my photographs of this as she had never seen anything like it before.    

With 30 minutes to spare before returning to Skopelos at 2230 hours, I joined Ingrid, David and his wife Penny and a few others for a beer at a harbour front cafe then returned to my same seat on the top deck of the boat, meeting up once again with Sophie and Stasi.  With a warm wind blowing, our journey back to Skopelos allowed time for quiet reflection on what had been, a pleasant diversion.  

In need of a good walk (walkers will understand how it becomes an addiction) yesterday I set off to find the old back road to Stafilos beach, some four kilometres from Skopelos town.  A little overcast and a light breeze made for perfect walking conditions as a soldiered on along the dirt road with olive groves all around me and no distractions.  Passed two small churches and strange looking sheep, I believe sheep herds on the island belong to a distinctive group called a “Skopelos Sheep” breed.  

The beach itself I would rate average.  Typically infested with sunbeds and umbrellas costing 7 Euro for two persons, after a dip in the sea, I found a comfortable log to sit on in the sun for half an hour, before a second dip and my return to Skopelos town.  Fortunately, for me it was more about the walk than finding a nice beach – if I want the beach, I have it directly across the road from my apartment and there is also the swimming pool here which I have still to check out.  Maybe sometime later after I have relocated to my Studio room.  The weather today – well, it must have been made in heaven!

Skopelos town (I am intrigued by how this photo looks more like an oil painting)

My last day in Damouhari passed quietly.  I lounged on the beach for some time, the wind from the days’ before had all but gone and the Aegean Sea was calmer, however, still far too many rocks to contend with.  I kept good company for a while with a Greek couple from Piraeus and they invited me back to their accommodation for a wine but as it was some 8km away, I unfortunately had to decline, my legs had done enough walking those previous few days.

With only six nights until I must head for the island of Skyros, I decided to skip Skiathos, the most touristy of the three islands in the north Sporades group, and head straight to Skopelos, the fictional Greek island of “Kalokairi” in the movie “Mama Mia”.  With a full moon on my last night there and an early start to the day yesterday, Damouhari farewelled me with the most glorious red sunrise (see More Photos II).  Walked up the stony path to await my taxi from Kissos to take me to Mouresi 5km away up the mountain, via a winding road.  Set me back 20 Euro which I was not too pleased about, however, there was no other option.  After an hour’s wait in Mouresi for the bus to Volos, it eventually arrived and I made a special request of the driver to let me know when we reached the nearest stop to the port.  He forgot but I sensed it was close and when I approached him for the second time – yes, we were there.

I was hoping to make it in time to catch the Hellenic Seaways “Flying Dolphin XXIII” hydrofoil at 1000 hours and with only 20 minutes to get there, I thought I would give it a go.  Arrived at the dock, had to return back to find the ticket office (b….. expensive, 45 Euro) and only just made it on board before the ramp was taken away.  A speedy 2 1/2 hours to Skopelos, via Skiathos and Glossa, where I was met by Sophie who owns the accommodation where I had pre-booked a studio www.skopelosweb.gr/delsol/  A wonderful place it is here, 700m from Skopelos town and a pleasant walk along the harbour, where you will find rooms/studios/apartments and a villa, all in a delightful garden setting, complete with tennis court and swimming pool.

If I was happy to wait until later in the day, Sophie would upgrade me from a studio to an apartment for the same rate – actually the upstairs floor of the villa.  It was a worthwhile decision, I have everything I could need here – a large balcony off the bedroom with uninterrupted sea views as well as a side balcony, extremely comfortable king size bed, lovely bathroom and living area with kitchen so I have decided to do some self catering for a few days to save some Euro.  Until this morning, I had thought to stay for three nights then on to Alonissos.  Now I have decided to spend the six nights on Skopelos, however, I will have to move to a studio on Saturday.

The island of Skopelos is mountainous and reputed to be the greenest in the Aegean.  The economy relies heavily now on tourism and in Skopelos town, the charming capital and main port of the island, the narrow, cobbled streets climb up the hillside.  A steep slope, largely inaccessible to vehicles, however, there are more than enough of those in the streets below.  Stacked on the hillside you will find white washed houses with red tile roofs, wooden balconies and lace curtained windows and by law, new buildings must retain the old style.  There are many many churches and this morning I visited the 2,500 year old little church of St Nicholas, to light a candle and say a special prayer for my family, on this my dear Mum’s 93rd birthday.

Today I read that Skopelos is a matrilineal society and wealth is past on via the family line.  It is customary for the parents of each Skopelitan bride to provide the new couple with at least a house and a property which remains in the bride’s name.  This custom is particularly insular as in most other parts of Greece, especially on the mainland and Crete, wealth is patrilineal.

Self portrait at Fakistra beach, The Pelion

Damouhari – what a wonderful paradise I have found, especially here at Victoria Guesthouse where the family make you feel you are at home and all the guests and visitors to Victoria Cafe are so lovely and friendly.  I would be quite content to sit in the courtyard – eat, drink, talk with the people and write, however, there are many wonderful places to explore nearby.

Yesterday, I set off to walk to Papa Nero beach and the small settlement of Agios Ioannis, much closer to Damouhari than Tsagarada and in fact, the point where my bus terminated last Friday, if only I had known then what I know now!  Anyway, a pleasant walk to Agios Ioannis where I enjoyed a Hortopita (green vege pastry) for brekkie by the beach, followed by a walk back to the southern end of Papa Nero beach where I had no problem passing several hours, alternating from sun to shade under wonderful trees.  Unfortunately, for some reason unknown to me, the Aegean Sea here at present is producing massive waves at all the beaches, making swimming an activity only for those a lot braver or more stupid than me.  I fit in with the majority who are not venturing far beyond the waterline – just enough to cool down and feel refreshed later on.

Early this morning I set off to walk to Fakistra beach, the pathway to which begins along the very same route I arrived at Damouhari last Friday.  When I saw the cobbled path literally climbing uphill, I could not believe I came down that hill with my backpack and I believe it was only Helen’s sheer determination and stubbornness that brought her here.

The level of difficulty for this route which takes you along the coast, parallel to the sea,  is described as medium but for those who walk it, the spectacular views and scenery are rewarding.  Once you arrive at the pagoda, you follow a dirt road, leading once more to a path which meanders downhill through olive groves, eventually arriving at white rocks where the path continues uphill, through rocky terrain and low vegetation.  From this point, on a clear day like today, the islands of the Sporades can be seen, before you continue on downhill to a small hut.  From the hut, the path takes you once again uphill through thick vegetation this time and another dirt road.

It was somewhere here that Christina, her husband and her god daughter from France caught up with me on the path and together we walked on until we arrived at the side path which takes you to Krifo Scholio, now a tiny church and the sea cave of Panagia Megalomata full of stalactites.  During the Turkish occupation, Krifo Scholio served as a school, an allegedly clandestine school that helped Greeks maintain their language, culture and religion during the period of Ottoman rule.  According to what I have heard, children from Tsagarada and Mouresi made their way down there at night to read and learn, finding their way by shining small torches towards the ground.

Once back up on the dirt road, it is only a very short distance until you arrive at the ashphalt parking area above Fakistra beach where I farewelled my companions and made my way down the stone path to the wild, pebbly beach and turquoise waters.  Deserted other than for a young couple who were camping nearby in an olive grove, she was Greek, he was English, they met 4 months’ ago at a music festival and now live together in Ireland.  They left me alone in paradise!

Late last night, all I had been able to find to take with me today to eat, were two pots of creme caramel and a packet of sesame bread sticks.  I ate one of the creme caramel and half the sesame bread sticks before tempting fate in the wild waters.  Wanting only to refresh myself for the return journey, I sat down on a rock where soon the waters poured over me, throwing me off the rock and a hasty retreat to higher ground.  With the waves sounding like cannon fire as they crashed against the rocks, I left Fakistra to return to Damouhari from where I will reluctantly move on this Wednesday. 

Firstly, I must make my way back to Volos from where I will take a boat to Skiathos, with only six nights on the Sporades islands before heading to Skyros to meet up with my Canadian friend Anna for a few days.  Company will make a pleasant change from travelling alone.