Itisallgreek2me

Thursday 30 May-Friday 31 May 2024

After arriving from Tilos on Wednesday evening, it was off the ferry and then an easy 350m stroll to Roulas Apartments, of which there are three, but mine is the only one occupied at the moment. I have to say it is very cozy for one, but I’m not sure I would want to share the space with another for more than an overnighter. However, from the shared terrace, the views are amazing. I won’t have any problem living with the view for 6 days.

This may sound strange, but if you have been reading my Blogs, you will understand. I saw a huge cockroach on my walk to the apartment. If that means they are not spraying to exterminate them on Chalki, then I’m one happy camper.

That evening, chatting with the supermarket owner, I happened to mention that I thought things were rather quiet on the island, and I enquired as to how his business was doing. His response was that things weren’t too bad, thanks to the English. You see, the Brits are totally in love with Chalki, and many families have been visiting the island for several generations.

That night, I was almost asleep when,  some time after midnight, the silence was broken by a succession of extremely loud BANGS! Boom, Boom, Boom, and a whole lot more. Greek wedding traditions vary, depending on where the marriage is taking place, but I have to wonder if that wasn’t the reason for celebration.

I awoke on Thursday morning to be greeted once again by the amazing view from my terrace, the perfect location for breakfast. I had requested an umbrella, but I hadn’t realized there is an electric awning (or tent as Manolis called it), which provides shade. Mid morning, I walked the 1.3km to Ftenagia beach. Hired a sunbed for 4 Euro. Had my first swim of the season and enjoyed Kokkinistó Kotópoulo… chicken in red sauce for lunch at the beachside Taverna.

There is a water taxi that every day makes 3 trips to Kania beach. This morning, I had planned to catch the first boat at 1000 hours. However, just after 0900 hours, I was ready, and as I’m feeling much better, I decided instead to walk the 2.4km over the mountain. I am so pleased I did as I thoroughly enjoyed it. In 2022, they weren’t charging for sunbeds at Kania beach, but you were expected to have lunch in their Taverna. Now they are charging 4 Euro. Oh well, I did beat the boat passengers to a sunbed by the water. Another swim, and to be honest, considering tomorrow is the 1st of June, I think everyone is finding the sea to be quite cold. A delicious Kotópoulo (chicken) Souvláki for lunch helped give me the necessary strength to make the walk back to Nimpório, the town. I was knackered but, nevertheless, feeling somewhat pleased with myself.

Saturday 25 May-Wednesday 29 May 2024

Saturday, I made the 20-minute walk along the seafront into Livadia itself to buy provisions for my stay. I’m now able to self cater for breakfast and lunches, and there is also Faros Taverna just a short distance from here if I feel like going out for a meal.

There was a howling gale on Saturday. However, at least the sun was out, and I could sunbathe on my terrace in the afternoon. I even managed to lock myself out of my room when I was checking on my washing, and the door slammed shut. Antonis to the rescue. Sunday was calmer but mainly overcast and even a tiny bit of rain. I never left my room. I woke up Monday feeling much improved, negating all thoughts of visiting a doctor that day, but I did manage a walk into Livadia, followed by a lovely spell at the tiny beach nearby.

On Tuesday morning, I made a trip to Livadia with my host, Antonis. They were waiting on a new machine to arrive, and at the time, they were unable to take payment from my account and so I needed cash. Alpha Bank’s ATM was down, and instinct told me not to trust the ATM at the Post Office. We decided to cross our fingers and go back in on Wednesday. Such a beautiful day, I made the short walk to the beach by Faros Taverna, where sunbeds are free and delicious food is served in an idyllic Greek setting. I ordered Psarósoupa… fish soup for lunch. It went down a treat, however, didn’t compare at all with the yummy Psarósoupa prepared with love by Katina in Kastéli.

Wednesday morning and my hosts machine arrived, so I was able to pay my bill using my card, negating the need for another trip to the bank… yay! I made the short walk back again to Faros Taverna for lunch. Yummy 😋 Moussaká. Layers of potato, aubergine, and ground beef, topped with béchamel sauce. Being able to keep my room until 1545 hours was a godsend. Then Antonis drove me to the Port where I had arranged to meet up with Joél and Liz. By 1725 hours, with me on board, the ferry DODEKANISOS PRIDE was on its way to Chalki, arriving at 1805 hours. Now a new chapter is about to begin.

Because I haven’t been my usual adventurous self these few days, here are the links to four Blogs you may be interested in reading.  I wrote these whilst on Tilos in June 2022. Fingers crossed this works.

Tiny and Tranquil Tilos

https://www.itisallgreek2me.com/?p=7793

An Extra “Goat” on Tilos and Dwarf Elephants

https://www.itisallgreek2me.com/?p=7821

Pilgrimage to the Holy Monastery of Agios Panteleimon

https://www.itisallgreek2me.com/?p=7855

Abandoned Medieval Settlement of Micro Chorio, Tilos

https://www.itisallgreek2me.com/?p=7894

Thursday 23 May-Friday 24 May 2024

Thursday, my last full day on Kastellórizo and just two more adventures I had to do. In the morning, I headed down to Remezzo Cafe to take a ride with Geórgios to the Blue Cave… cost E15. I shared the boat ride with a family of 3 from Perth. They were already on board when Geórgios picked me up around 0830 hours, so I scored a seat on the bow. It was a very bumpy and uncomfortable ride. We arrived at the Cave only to find the sea was too high for the boat to enter. The only way was to jump in and swim. I’m not much of a swimmer, and I need to know my feet can touch the bottom. No way could I jump into water 6-7m deep. Disappointingly, I didn’t get to see inside the Blue Cave.

I had asked Geórgios if he could drop me off on St George Island and come back to pick me up later in the day. No problem, here’s my card, just phone when you are ready. St George Island is tiny and quite close to Kastellórizo. There’s a small church, a Taverna, and sunbeds you can hire for E6. The wind was slowly picking up so after 3-4 hours, I thought it best that I get myself back to Kastellórizo.

I hadn’t realized credit was low on my phone, and I couldn’t top up as there was no Internet Connection. I spoke to a couple from Turkey and asked if they wouldn’t mind making the call for me. No answer. I spoke to a man there with his son, also Turkish. He tried calling. Still no answer. Fortunately, I got back with the latter two people, sharing their water taxi, operated by Stavros. I explained my dilemma to Stavros and offered payment, but he wouldn’t accept anything. Thank you, Stavros.

Friday morning, I said goodbye to the island of Kastellórizo. I left my room in plenty of time to have breakfast at Meltemi Cafe, and then, walking to the Port, I met up with Joél and Liz, who had come to bid me farewell. It was such a nice surprise. Because of weather conditions in the Kastellórizon Sea, the departure of Blue Star PATMOS had been brought forward to 1130 hours. In itself, that wasn’t a problem. However, it meant sitting and waiting on board at Rhodes for 3+ hours and extending the journey by 2+ hours, almost 10 hours in total. That’s a lot of time to be twiddling your thumbs. Eventually, we left Rhodes… first stop Symi, next stop Tilos – hooray!

I had arranged with Despoina, my host, to pick me up from the Port and drive me to Marina Beach. I first visited Tilos in 2022 and got to see a lot of things at that time. This trip, I decided to stay a little out from the main town of Livadia to have peace and quiet, total R and R. Maximum exertion is going to be walking to the little beach nearby to swim and work on my tan or to the nearest Taverna to eat.

Tuesday 21 May-Wednesday 22 May 2024

Name Days are Feast Days in Greece. It is when the Greek Orthodox commemorates a particular holy person, normally a saint or martyr.   Orthodox churches are given the name of a saint. So, the churches have feast days on the days of the year associated with their specific saints. Greeks are usually given the name of an orthodox saint, and Name Days are celebrated as we would celebrate our birthday.

Tuesday, 21 May, was the Name Day of Konstantinos and Eléni and, of course, my name is Helen. The patron Saints of Kastellórizo also happen to be Konstantinos and Eléni. The pealing of church bells could be heard from early morning, and around 1100 hours, I witnessed a procession, just as I arrived at the Agios Konstantinos & Agia Eleni Church.

With a forecast high for the day of 30°C, I returned to my room early in the afternoon for siesta. I haven’t been feeling 💯 the past 48 hours, with symptoms akin to chemical poisoning, which I know well, having had 245T poisoning in the past. If you remember, Agent Orange, used in the Vietnam War, it contained 245T.

In the afternoon, when my host Peter knocked on the door, imagine my shock when I learned he had come to tell me someone was spraying a chemical pesticide in and outside the building to eliminate cockroaches 🪳 They even wanted to spray in my room. I voiced my concern and then shut myself in for the remainder of the day. Apparently, the guy has been on the job all around town. Is it any wonder that I have been feeling unwell.

This morning, a little before 0800 hours, I left my room to hike up the 400 steps and onwards to the Monastery of St George of Vouni and return. I was aware before setting out that the monastery would be closed. It was quite challenging, but I conquered, and I achieved what I set out to do. Conditions were mainly overcast and humid. Once up on top, a light breeze was welcomed. The steps were marked in increments of 50, and somehow, it helped to know how far I still had to go.

I had lunch out at Remezzo Café with my host Peter and Harvey,  an Australian friend of Peter’s. This morning, Peter saw two Loggerhead Sea Turtles in the harbour. I’m still waiting to capture that elusive Turtle image.

Tonight, I decided to try Lazarakis Restaurant for dinner. I enjoyed their Yemistá (stuffed vegetables). Not as good as Katina’s in Kastéli. However, possibly the best I’ve eaten at a  restaurant. What I have noticed on Kastellórizo is that all the restaurants seem to offer a complimentary sweet to finish off your meal. It’s a nice gesture that goes some way towards counteracting what I think are fairly high prices.

Sunday 19 May-Monday 20 May 2024

The best laid plans sometimes go wrong, and on Sunday morning, I didn’t set off as early as I had hoped to hike up to Palaeokastro. There was a heat haze hanging over the island, and conditions under foot meant I had to carefully watch every step as I made my way up the rocky path.

The earliest habitation of Palaeokastro Acropolis was the 6th to the 5th century BC. There are four small chapels and churches inside the fortress walls and a fifth just outside. It is a fascinating place, and anyone making the walk up is rewarded with spectacular views.

I often think of myself as one of the roaming goats when I am walking mountain pathways in Greece, probably because I feel so free. However, hiking back down the mountain yesterday, my right knee reminded me that it was only shortly before Christmas that I fractured my patella and my left knee has been prone to playing up for a number of years.

Shortly after arriving back to civilisation, I noticed three young people contemplating the stairs to the Monastery of St George of Vouni. I called out to them and asked where they wanted to go. Only here for the day from Kaş in Turkey, they were looking for the way to Palaeokastro, so I gave them directions. I carried on to walk to Mandraki beach, where I sat for a while and beachcombed, but no finds. Once again on the road, I bumped into the same trio… one had made it to the top, the other two not. They admitted they were not fit and ill prepared. 

By the time I arrived back at the harbour, I was famished and longing for an ice cold Kaiser 🍺 I returned to Meltemi Cafe Bar for lunch and who was there… none other than the intrepid trio. We got talking… Lila, Austin, and Camille, all three are writers. I loved meeting them. Lila and Austin will return to the USA for their wedding and then return to Europe. Camille has a more complex itinerary, the details of which I can’t remember.

I wasn’t feeling 💯 last night, so today has been more leisurely. Walked to the Lycian rock-cut Tomb (4th century BC), with its Doric facade carved out of the rockface, directly below the Knights Castle. It’s a historical landmark and the only Lycian Tomb in Greece, although there are many in Turkey. 

Exploring more streets and alleyways as I made my way back to the harbour. A perfect sunny day with a light breeze, being on the island of Kastellórizo is akin to being in paradise. I stopped by Alexandra’s Restaurant and asked if they could make me a small Greek salad, and they obliged. I find the serving sizes way too much for me, and I hate wasting food. I had the salad with Fáva (yellow split pea dip), crunchy crusted bread, and, of course, a 🍺 It was still too much for me, so I requested the leftovers be put in a container to bring back to my room for later.

Sitting by the waters edge, I spotted an endangered Loggerhead Sea Turtle (Caretta caretta) swimming in the harbour. He was too quick for me. Every time he surfaced, I was too slow with my camera. Hopefully, I’ll have another opportunity whilst I’m on the island.

Friday 17 May-Saturday 18 May 2024

Thursday night, I slept well… thanks to a wee Zopiclone tablet. An early rise Friday, allowing for a leisurely stroll, first to find a bakery then to the Port. I enjoyed my 3h 35m trip to Kastellórizo on the ferry Blue Star PATMOS.

Kastellórizo, or as it is officially known Megisti, lies roughly 2km off the southern coast of Turkey. OMG… it is absolutely beautiful 😍 I’m already in love with this Greek isle. I’m also in love with my accommodation… Castellorizon Pensione. One of the nicest places, if not the nicest place I’ve ever stayed and I’m here for 7 nights. Located in an old building, which has been renovated to a very high standard, it has only been open for 4 weeks. 

Friday afternoon, aside from the usual settling in and going out for provisions, I had to deal with yet another hiccup in my itinerary. Blue Star Ferries has changed the vessel and the timing of my trip on 4 June from Chalki to Rhodes, meaning I wouldn’t make my connection to Syros later that day. I found an alternative route from Chalki to Kos with a 9h 20m wait there, then catch the original ferry I was booked on to take me from Kos to Syros. This afternoon, Ferryhopper has confirmed that I am eligible for a full refund. On that promise, I have gone ahead and made my new reservations.

As a long stay guest at Castellorizon Pensione, a complimentary bottle of Prosecco was left in my fridge, and I enjoyed a large glass last night before strolling down to Alexandra’s for dinner. Makarónia me Kimá… essentially Spaghetti Bolognaise. Very nice it was, too. Finished off my meal with a complimentary Creme Caramel.

This morning, I left my room to explore, and when I noticed a lot of people at the Police Station, I realized they were all leaving on a boat for Kaş in Turkey. I did think to go for a day but then it just didn’t sit well with me. I’m so pleased I chose not to as a little while later, I met Joél and Liz up at the castle. The loveliest couple, Joél is French, but they live in San Francisco, and just like my encounters in Rhodes with Arinna and then Paul and Lucille, we clicked. Coincidentally, their next two stops are the same as mine… Tilos and Chalki.

It is very warm here today, so after my strolling, I headed to Meltemi Cafe Bar for an ice cold Kaiser 🍺 and a Club Sandwich with Fries… a good choice anywhere in Greece 🇬🇷

I was going to venture out this evening. However, I made an executive decision to stay put in my lovely room, finish off the Prosecco with some nibbles, and have a shower and an early night. Tomorrow morning, before the heat of the day, I want to hike up to Palaeokastro, an old Byzantine fortress.

Wednesday 15 May-Thursday 16 May 2024

Wednesday began with a walk, catching the first bus of the day to Chania and arriving there with just 10 minutes to spare. Second bus to Heraklion, then another two buses to Sitia… some 300km all up from the west to the east coast of Crete.

In Sitia, as I started to walk in the direction of the Port, I thought it was probably a good idea to have a late lunch/early dinner whilst waiting for my 1930 hours ferry departure for Rhodes. Spotted an idyllic setting at Zorbas where I sat down at a table in the sun by the waters edge. Ended up regretting my choice of eatery as the service there was appalling and when a loose top on a pepper shaker came off, exploding pepper over half of my salad, I was only offered another plate to put the inedible food on.

The uneventful but long and tiring journey on ferry boat PREVELIS took 11 hours. I couldn’t sleep and the aircon meant I was frozen to the bone. After arriving on Rhodes around 0630 hours today, I walked the 1.2km to my accommodation at Knights of the Old Town. They had messaged me to say I was welcome to leave my luggage at reception and if my room was ready, they would be happy to offer me an earlier check-in. However, I could find no reception area and no one to greet me. When I eventually called them, they apologized and said someone would be here around 8. Finally, at 8.30am, two cleaning ladies arrived and much to my delight, I learned that no one had occupied Room 8 last night and it was immediately available.

I’m only here overnight as tomorrow morning I catch a ferry to the island of Kastellórizo. With a coffee, a hot shower and a rest under my belt, around 01400 hours, I set out to find food, more specifically, a restaurant called La Veranda, which I read about on TripAdvisor. On the way there, a woman approached me in the street and we got chatting. Arinna is South African, but she lives in the USA. She wasn’t in need of food but decided to come with me for a beer. Travel is not only about seeing and experiencing new things and places it is very much about meeting people and my encounter today with Arinna seemed somehow meant to be.

Arinna moved on, but I stayed a while longer to finish my Moussaká and beer. Then I noticed a couple at another table who were about to take a selfie, so I offered to take their photo. Paul is from London but lives in Zurich and his partner Lucille is South African. We ended up spending a couple of hours together, drinking beer and conversing about Greece and a lot of other things. I had such a lovely time with them and Arinna earlier and all totally unexpected.

After saying our farewells, I went on a little walkabout around the Old Town, but to be honest, I’m completely knackered now and it will be lights out for me as soon as I have finished this Blog… Living for today.

Monday 13 May-Tuesday 14 May 2024

Just as planned, at 0800 hours Monday morning, I visited the Ethniki Trápeza… National Bank of Greece, Kastéli branch, to seek help after their ATM swallowed up my CashPassport Card on Saturday morning. In short… no help, no card returned. Tried swiping my ANZ VISA Debit Card… “Your card cannot be serviced”. Tried logging into the CashPassport App… “Your card is closed and you can no longer access the App”. Tried calling the free number from Greece for CashPassport… “Couldn’t connect”. Sent an email requesting urgent help… still awaiting a reply.

Prior to this debacle, I had booked a ticket to go on the 4 x 4 minibus to Balos, departing 0930 hours, returning 1630 hours Monday. You can go by boat which also stops at Gramvoúsa, allowing you to walk up to the castle, however, I’ve done that trip before but hadn’t been overland.

From the ticket booth, where you pay 1 Euro per person tax, it’s a dirt road and a very bumpy one at that. Rent a Car insurance is not valid and no road assistance is provided on the Balos road. The bus costs 20 Euro per person return and takes about 35-45 minutes each way. The hike to the beach takes about the same amount of time, depending on how often you stop going down to admire the stunning views and to rest on the way back up to the carpark. The terrain is rocky and you can expect to see quite a few rather friendly free ranging goats. One even crept up behind me on the beach and tried to steal my food.

This morning I returned to the Ethniki Trápeza and spoke again with the same man as yesterday about my money dilemma. Still no help rendered… he couldn’t have given a rat’s arse. Two more banks and still no joy. Finally, at the Bank of Chania, a very nice sympathetic man, viewed my Passport, suggested I try inserting my ANZ VISA Debit Card into their ATM and assured me if it was swallowed up, he would retrieve it for me. So I did as he advised and all went according to plan. For now I have monies to hand but I have no idea how I can transfer the funds from my CashPassport card back to my everyday account.

Today was my last day in Kastéli. Spent some time making a very nostalgic walk along Kastéli beach, my spiritual home since 1981. It was very emotional as I’m aware of at least 3 reasons why I believe this will have been my last trip here. For years I dreamed of retiring to Greece, however, I now know that is not to be.

Continued on my way to the family home. Went upstairs to see Anna. Told her “S’agapo”… I love you, to which Anna responded, “kai egó”… and me. There was to be no further conversation… I kissed her cheek and went back downstairs for lunch. Katina had made Psarósoupa me Avgó kai Lemóni… Fish Soup with Egg and Lemon. So, so very delicious 😋

During every visit to Kastéli Kissamos, without fail, I make the walk up the hill to the Parthenóna… the cemetery where family members are buried, to pay my respects to those departed. I usually take a Gardénia as that was Costas’ favourite flower. However, today I didn’t find a Gardénia at the plant nursery, so instead, I took a white Geranium.

Back at the house, I waited to have 4 o’clock coffee with Katina and Anna. The weather did a complete turnaround and it started to rain, so after making the final sad farewells, Vasilis drove me to Vanna’s, from where I eventually walked back to my room. Tomorrow I leave my family here in Kastéli… first bus at 0700 hours to Chania and onwards.

Saturday 11 May-Sunday 12 May 2024

Although I still had some Euros leftover from my last trip, yesterday morning I thought it would be a good idea to visit an ATM and make a withdrawal using my CashPassport card, a Mastercard product I’ve used for many years without problem until now. The machine ate my card!!! Fortunately, I’ll still be in Kastéli tomorrow morning and when the Bank opens at 0800 hours, I’ll be waiting on their doorstep. Politely, I say… buggar 😡

Had lunch with Katina and Vasilis and saw Anna. Late afternoon walking back to Revekka, much to my surprise, I bumped into Anna’s daughter Kiki who had just arrived on the bus from Chania. Kiki was walking to the Zacharopoleio (Cake Shop) to buy a cake for Mothers’ Day today and she kindly bought me a piece of yummy Almond Cake.

Last night I had planned to visit Roma and Vanna but it wasn’t to be. Not my day as I received a communication from Blue Star Ferries advising that my ferry on Thursday from Heraklion to Rhodes will not be operating. That means on Wednesday I’ll be travelling all day on three buses to get from Kastéli to Chania to Heraklion to Sitia where hopefully I’ll be in time to catch the 1930 hours overnight ferry to Rhodes, arriving 0630 hours on Thursday. I also had to request a refund for my ferry ticket and cancel my overnight hotel booking in Heraklion.

Today… Mothers’ Day and a return to mostly clear, blue, sunny skies. Enjoyed a beachcombing stroll on the way to Anna’s. By early afternoon, the somewhat tiny family home was bulging at the seams, with the arrival of several extended family members from Chania. A table was laid and we all tucked into delicious food prepared by Katina… nothing but the best. Later in the day, it was appropriate to celebrate Oréstes birthday as he turned 6 yesterday. People kept coming and going however, by 1830 hours, I was ready to return to peace and quietness in my room. Tomorrow my day will begin early.

Tuesday 7 May-Friday 10 May 2024

Monday night, just as I was thinking to make the walk back to Revekka, plans changed when family members arrived. We spent a pleasant evening around the table eating, drinking, talking, laughing… a typical scene in a Greek family home. It had been a long day and outside it was surprisingly chilly, so a lift back to my room was really appreciated.

Tuesday dawned a calm, clear blue sky day… absolutely stunning. I went walkabout along the beach and through town, then hung out in my room for a while before walking over to Roma and Vanna’s at lunchtime. Vanna’s mother Théspina had made Yemistá… stuffed vegetables. Returned to my room in time to catch an hour’s worth of sunbeams on my balcony, in the evening returning to the family home.

When Katina asked me if I would like to eat Horta, she received a very positive response. For hundreds of years, the Cretan people have been eating the wild greens abundant from their even wilder mountains. Simply called “Horta” nutrient rich Stamnagáthi or Spiny Chicory is recognized for its many medicinal benefits. It is believed to be one of the Cretan hidden keys to longevity.

Many of you will know of my passion for Sea Glass hunting. This therapeutic pastime began in Greece in 2022 and naturally, I wish to continue beachcombing while I’m back here. Walked along Kastéli beach Wednesday morning to the spot I’ve always gone to whenever I’ve been staying in the family home. Only small pickings of Sea Glass but a lovely spell in the sun before going to have lunch and see Anna.

Katina had cooked Kotópoulo me bámies sto foúrno. Chicken with Okra (also known as ladies fingers) baked in the oven. Okra has lots of health benefits and I enjoy them but eating too many can cause one to have gas, bloating and stomach cramping. Never mind… easily cured with an ouzo or two in the evening.

An incredibly frustrating day on Thursday, endeavouring to fix the issues with my website, which is only displaying content on the Home Page and Blog… still unresolved. Went out to Babel Cafe by the sea to clear my head. Enjoyed a Club Sandwich with Fries. Had another walk along Kastéli beach on the way to Anna’s, coffee and then back to the grindstone.

Friday and the weather gods were a little angry sending rain, thunder and a lot of wind our way. A perfect excuse to have a day to myself for rest and relaxation, only venturing out early afternoon to eat a delicious plate of Vegetarian Pasta at Babel Cafe/Bar Restaurant.