Itisallgreek2me

With Ray and Heather after the Parade of Sail

Tuesday 11 June 2013 – without warning, the Government shutdown the Greek National Broadcaster ERT’s 5 TV channels, as well as it’s radio stations, with the loss of some 2600 jobs!  No one denies something needed to be done, however, it was the suddenness of the decision, without a leaner and more efficient public broadcaster set up to replace it that shocked the nation and this whole debacle has left the coalition government on shaky ground.  The Greek people were paying for ERT – interestingly, funded by mandatory payments in their electricity bills.

None the less, my life here on Spetses continues to be both a relaxing and very happy one.  Nights out in Bar Spetsa – where there is now a notice above the door “Spetses Classic Yacht Race 2013 – Official Moorings” – how cool is that!  No matter what time I go in or how long I stay, there is almost always someone I know or someone new to meet and talk to.  This week there was the Danish gamekeeper who works on the nearby privately owned island of Spetsopoula.  Katie and Alan, Stratos, Beatrice from Holland, Roland, Nikos, Sotiris, Panayiotes, Pavlos, Carolina, Kim, Ray and Heather – many of whom have fascinating and interesting backgrounds.  Generally, Costas seems to be the last establishment to close and so there is no where open for us to move on to, however, one night we did find Delfinia open … a couple of drinks for the road.

The weather, as I have so often written, has been heavenly!  Every day I walk down to Agios Mammas beach … an hour or so lapping up the sun, followed by a dip in the warm, salty sea – it is so, so good for mind and body.  This week, here on the island, everyone has been gearing up for the Spetses Classic Yacht Race and wouldn’t you know it, on Wednesday the weather took a turn for the worse.  Ever hopeful, I walked down to the beach – the sun refused to show its face so I returned to the house, going back around 1100 hours.  I timed it well … later in the afternoon came thunder and rain – all very nice as we enjoyed our siesta.

Thursday was registration day for the boats and crews … the first day of racing would be on Friday.  Thinking positively, I left for the beach, returning home just half an hour later … the clouds had rolled in and again the afternoon would bring good rain.  Stayed home that night, saving myself for a busy weekend to come.  Friday’s weather forecast had been for more of the same … not ideal for race participators or watchers on.  However, I awoke at 0900 hours to a blue sky and sunshine … made ready for my walk up into the hills for a panoramic view of the Saronic Gulf.  By the time I had made it to the tiny pink church, the skies were overcast, very little wind and just a few spots of rain.  Decided to return to the town and find Costas.

We met at 1800 Bar and Internet Cafe for a cappuccino.  Again parting company, I walked to the end of the pier which is very close by, met Pavlos with his mum, Heather and Beatrice, the latter and I lingering for quite some time before leaving.  As luck would have it, bumped into Costas outside the Poseidonion Grand Hotel where, after viewing Carolina’s painting exhibited inside, we decided to sit on the Verandah amongst the rich and famous to enjoy a couple of Fix beers.  Still with next to no wind, the boats were going nowhere.  By the time we arrived at Bouboulina for a lunch of lettuce salad, patates tiganetes (fries) and our favourite barbounakia (small red mullet) the boats were on the move.  A strong wind had come up … enough to cause me to put my towel around my shoulders, however, it was not to last.  Feeling replete and very satisfied with quite a perfect day, so far, around 1500 hours we returned home for our siesta.

Later that evening in the Bar, I was told there had been a “No Race” … unfortunately, too little wind – what a pity!  There was to have been three races that day … Classic Yachts, Aegean Classic Schooners and Lateens.  Yet another most enjoyable evening, spent mainly in the company of John and Julie, Anna, then Beatrice and later Ray and Heather.  Home and in bed around 0500 hours … up again at 1000 hours.  It was Saturday and I was on a mission … to be down at the Poseidonion by 1100 hours to watch the Parade of Sail for Spetsiot Schooners.  Just like on the previous day, I met up with Beatrice, Ray and Heather and together we watched the magnificent spectacle on what was a hot, gloriously sunny day, with far more importantly, better conditions for sailing … two races starting at noon – Classic Yachts and Lateens.  By 1230 hours I was in the Bar to help Costas followed by coffee out at Delfinia and an opportunity to watch and photograph something of the racing.  When Costas returned to the Bar at 1400 hours, I came home to cook English breakfast … by 1500 hours it was siesta time.

With still one more day of the Regatta to go, I’m feeling that this Blog has gone on for long enough.  So, I will close for now and write the final chapter on this subject in my next Blog.

Heather and I – Lunch at the Poseidonion

Compared to the last one, what a lovely week this has been.  Healthwise, I am now feeling on top of my game … everyday has seen some improvement and I am even sleeping better than I have done for a very long time.

It was 2300 hours on Saturday night before I went to the Bar to meet Ray and Heather … ended up staying until closing when Costas and I walked home in the rain around 0500 hours.  By Sunday morning, the weather was simply heavenly … a bright blue sky and cobalt sea.  I walked down to Agios Mammas beach to enjoy my swim and sunbathing … alas, Sundays are never quite as peaceful there with an influx of children and day trippers from the mainland.  That night, a quiet one spent at home with, of course, the four cats to keep me company.

Monday –  the same heavenly weather and a peaceful spell at the beach.  In the evening I went early to the Bar where I met Pavlos … a fifth generation descendant of Laskarina Bouboulina – a naval commander and heroine of the Greek War of Independence in 1821.  Pavlos’ father established the Bouboulina Museum here on Spetses … Pavlos works as a guide there and lives on the ground floor.  A very pleasant young man, well-educated and great company.

Tuesday – Costas wanted me at the Bar to open and mix up several kilos of all the various nuts and seeds the customers nibble on, so I did that, then decided to forgo the beach for a day as at 1430 hours we were to meet Ray and Heather at the Poseidonion Grand Hotel for lunch.  Rather than choose from the menu, Dimitri the chef chose the dishes for us … in all, ten plates to share – they just kept coming.  Wow!  What a fabulous lunch we had.  Many of the dishes are not on the Verandah menu … we had a selection of breads with a beautiful dip, club sandwiches with smoked salmon and avocado, gravlax with a green salad, another salmon dish, toast with puree tomato and anchovies, a smoked aubergine dish topped with a wild green that grows by the sea, the wonderful quinoa salad like we had a couple of weeks previously, a tahini dish, a pasta dish, beef teriyaki – again with the wild green from by the sea and the most beautiful chicken risotto.  I think that was it and all without cheese which, of course, Costas does not eat.

When Costas went home for his siesta, I went with Heather and Ray to meet up with Jerry and Marilyn at the 1800 Bar and Internet Cafe in Kounoupitsa.  A couple of leisurely drinks there overlooking the sea, after which I hopped on to the back of Jerry’s quad and we were off to Rendezvous.  From there it was a natural progression on to Bar Spetsa in the evening where I kept company with Ray and Heather and Carolina, finally making it home around 0100 hours.

Wednesday – beach, of course, then home to cook us an English breakfast.  Bacon, eggs, sausages, mushrooms, onions, tomato and baked beans.  In the afternoon, a young Greek girl – Katie, had challenged Costas to a game of scrabble at Delfinia, so I went for a coffee and to watch … Costas being the winner on the day.  That evening spent in the Bar where I had arranged to meet Tea, the young Georgian woman who cleans and irons etc for Costas.

Thursday – beach again but otherwise a fairly quiet day.  I finished reading Victoria Hislop’s “The Island” … a most enjoyable novel about a family on Crete, an adaption of which became the most successful television series ever broadcast in Greece.

Friday – there was to be no beach this day … overcast and a few large droplets of rain which came to nothing.  Lunch at Bouboulina Restaurant … Fava (split yellow pea dip), kolokithakia tiganetes (sliced courgette dipped in batter and fried) served with skordalia (garlic dip) and half a kilo of our favourite barbounakia (small red mullet).  By 2130 hours I was in Bar Spetsa … like most nights, a quiet start, just four Greeks sitting at the bar, one of them the richest man in Greece.  Carolina arrived later and we kept company for most of the night.  As the Bar eventually became very busy, I was required to collect empty glasses and change ashtrays for a while … another 0500 hours closing.  The last customers to leave were a group of four Englishmen … a father and son, the father’s brother and the skipper of the boat they were all on.  They declared Bar Spetsa to be the best bar in the world!

Saturday – lunch today at Spetsiotiko … took my time removing and devouring the flesh of two small whole fish (species unknown) together with a lettuce salad, a little bread and a Fix beer.  We have had our siesta, Costas has gone to the Bar and I will follow much later.

Just another typical week of my life on Spetses … returning to work and winter in New Zealand later this month aint going to be easy.

Godparents, Spiros and the Priest

This week has been a little surreal.  It began okay on Monday … went to the Bar early at 2000 hours to farewell Paddy and Wendy.  It was their last night on the island for now … hopefully we will meet up here again in May next year.  I was home again by 2230 hours, could not sleep, so went back to the Bar at 0130 hours until 0330 hours … when I left, there were still 17 customers and I figured it was going to be another late night for Costas.  Apart from one couple holding hands, the town was ghostly quiet, however, as I neared the house, I could hear that Boggi was still in full swing.

On Tuesday, Costas bought 3 kilo of minced beef which together we made into Biftekia (Greek burgers) … the majority we put into  the freezer.  I made a lovely salad which we had with takeaways from Quarter for lunch and that night I stayed home for a quiet one.  Wednesday morning I was back at the beach … the sea a little choppy and I was there alone.  As I was leaving, met Costas, we went to Delfinia for a coffee, then home to make a salad with Roka (Rocket) to have with Biftekia for lunch.

For sometime before leaving New Zealand, I had been experiencing pain in my upper right arm, however, being the stubborn individual that I am, pretty much chose to ignore it, believing it was most likely as a result of stress and that it would go away once I made it to Greece and relaxed a little more but it has continued.  Then, some 10 days or so ago, I developed a pain under my left breast and on Costas’ insistence, I agreed to go and see a Physiotherapist who came highly recommended … my appointment was on Wednesday afternoon.  Vaggeles could not help me with the pain in my rib cage … something of a mystery as to what has caused it in the first place and whether it is the muscle, bone or cartilage that is damaged.  It could take weeks to come right.  In my neck, shoulder and arm, he located some very tender spots and recommended Acupuncture.  As I could not comfortably lie down on my tummy on the table, I knelt in a special chair so that Vaggeles could insert the needles.  After a little while I felt faintish and nauseous … he assisted me to the table where I lay down and he raised my feet in the air.  It seems the treatment had caused my blood pressure to drop rather low.  He then gave me the most wonderful neck, shoulder and arm massage after which I walked home feeling so much better.  I was to telephone him on Friday to report on my well-being.

That night I went to the Bar around 2130 hours and had a most enjoyable evening … home before 0100 hours.  I could not sleep, the pain in my rib cage had worsened and I was unable to lie on either side.  By the time Costas arrived home around 0430 hours, I was feeling very poorly.  According to Costas, I was yellow and so he summoned a Doctor to the house around 0500 hours.  My blood pressure was high … very unusual for me and this Doctor thought there could be a problem with my heart … in the morning I should go to the Clinic for an ECG.  Costas called a taxi to take us there … the ECG was performed, the Doctor looked at the resultant chart and declared there was something not right, I must go to the Health Centre in Kranidi for further examination and  be prepared for a possible few days in hospital in Navplio.  It was 1240 hours, no time to return home for any personal items.  Costas arranged for Panayiotes wife Carol to accompany us as in the event that I ended up in Navplio, he would not be able to stay there with me.  By 1300 hours we were all in the ambulance aboard the Katerina Star ferry on our way to Kranidi.

Another ECG, poked, prodded, listened into, blood and urine samples taken then on a drip for half an hour which did have the desired effect of easing the pain.  A third ECG followed … they stated they believed there had been an “incident”, however, my heart was now quite healthy and I was free to go – what a relief was that!  A taxi then a water taxi back to the island, takeaways from Spetsiotiko for lunch, followed by a very welcome siesta … interrupted only by a telephone call from Ray “How is Helen”?  News travels fast on Spetses … Anna had spotted us on the ferry and it seems the pigeon courier had started from there.

For now, taking things very quietly … I did not leave the house Friday and my second night of staying at home.  Feeling okay, however, the pain killers I am taking out of necessity are working.  A complete medical check when I return to New Zealand will be a priority.  Costas is right, I do push myself too much when I am working and also trying to live a lifestyle here which I am not accustomed to with the late nights.  Add to this the travelling from one side of the world to the other … I need to slow down.

Saturday the 1st of June dawned overcast.  Nevermind, I did not have any plans to go to the beach as we had been invited to the Baptism of 7 month old Spiros, the son of Nikos and Tina … to be held at 1100 hours at the Ieros Naos Agion Taxiarchon church, located in the oldest part of Spetses town, known as Kastelli.  Left the house around 1020 hours to go to Dapia Porto Cafe for a coffee … then a taxi up the hill to the church.  In contrast with the Dapia and Old Harbour areas, where luxury yachts, expensive shops, trendy cafes and the rich and famous mingle, Kastelli has a village feel to it with tethered horses, chickens roaming free, cats and kittens abound and vegetables are planted anywhere a space can be found.

I believe this little church is one of the oldest on the island, however, I have not been able to establish exactly how old … inside it is absolutely beautiful.  We entered, lit our candles and waited for the service to begin … the church was packed to capacity with many more people outside.  Greek Orthodox Baptism is rich with symbolism and it is a service in which the godparents play a very big role.  Unfortunately, we had to leave before the end as Costas had an appointment but there are many excellent websites where you can learn more.  Before leaving we took our Bomboniera’s … these gifts are an Eastern Orthodox tradition over 3,000 years’ old.  Filled with koufeta – jordan almonds – the favours are given as tokens of good fortune and happiness.  Bomboniera’s are symbolic of life with their bittersweet taste.  The sugar-coating represents the hope that life will be blessed with more sweetness than bitterness … with that, I can only agree.

Agios Mammas Beach

In Greece, a Name Day is celebrated in a similar way to a birthday.  According to the Greek Orthodox Church, every day of the year is dedicated to the memory of at least one Saint.  If someone is named after a Saint (and most Greeks are) then it is traditional to celebrate on his or her Name Day.  21st of May is the Name Day of Costas and Helen, Constantina and Nadia and all derivatives thereof.

I began the day by going to Agios Mammas beach.  The mainly middle aged Greeks who come down to the sea for their daily bathing, instantly recognisable by their wearing of a hat and sunglasses as they bob around in the water.  The swallows … darting and dancing as they fly at great speed over head.  Paddy and Wendy arrived … after ten days straight of walking over the hill to either Anargiri or Agios Paraskevi beach, they had decided to spend the day a little more relaxed, closer to where they stay.  It was extremely hot, the sea something of a relief but I knew I must return to the house and make ready … Costas was taking me to the Poseidonion Grand Hotel for lunch.

We sat on the verandah, with a view of the Saronic Gulf … the menu very inviting, using fresh local ingredients and produce from the organic vegetable garden of the hotel.  We ordered two Fix beers … I used to drink Fix when I first came to Greece back in the 1970’s and I had forgotten how nice it was.  Next they brought us a basket of bread, three varieties … together with a dish containing a blend of mayonnaise and sun-dried tomatoes – delicious!  Then a wonderful green salad dressed with an asian vinaigrette, followed by our main course – burgers.  Together with these, we were given a plate on the house … an amazing salad of quinoa, peas, spring onions, cucumber and loads of dill with anchovies on the side.  Insisting that we should partake in a sweet to finish our meal, they brought a plate to share … balls of rizogalo (rice pudding) floating in a plate of thick cherry soup.  It was a meal never to be forgotten.  Returning home for our afternoon siesta … it was to be interrupted many times by well wishers telephoning Costas to wish him Kronia Polla (many years).

By 2000 hours we were both at the Bar.  Paddy and Wendy were in early for their pre dinner drinks … I was to stay until closing.  All through the night, well wishers continued to drop in with gifts for Costas … cakes, sweets, chocolates, alcohol, flowers, plants clothing and the telephone continued to ring right up until midnight.  Among the drinkers was a group of young people, all staff at the Poseidonion … including the chef, the barman and the receptionist.  When one of them decided to open a bottle of tequila and pour shots, I was in their company.  They were surprised when politely, I only had a sip then left my glass on the bar … I was quite happy to stick with my usual drink – 5 Star Metaxa and ginger ale.  It was a great day but sorry, I did not take a single photograph.

Nearly a week has gone by since our Name Day … a week which has included several visits to the beach and a number of nights out in Bar Spetsa.  On Friday night I caught up with our Scottish friends Ray and Heather who arrived back on the island earlier in the week from a vacation to Dubai.  Sunday night I enjoyed a meal out with Paddy and Wendy at Exedra Restaurant.  Right on the sea on the road to the Old Harbour, it was where Costas and I had our first lunch together just over three years’ ago.  For a few nights last week, the town was full of young 18-year-old students … having just finished their High School years, they were celebrating before heading off to Universities all over the world.

Yesterday, I had a lovely walk to Kouzinou … leaving the house just after 1000 hours, I wanted to see how hot it would be out walking during the day as I think about making another circumnavigation of the island, as I did last year, however, this time I will go anti-clockwise around.  It was incredibly hot yesterday … tonight feels a little cooler than it has been and so I am hopeful that in the coming days I will walk once again around this amazingly beautiful island.

In A Word – “Smiling”

I know I have said this before …my twice yearly journeys to Greece are not for holidays.  I consider this to be my other home where I spend a big part of my time and it must be difficult for some of you to imagine just how beautiful the island of Spetses is.  A paradise … akin to heaven on earth.

We are being treated to unbelievably glorious, warm, sunny days.  Because I like to help Costas in any way that I can, most days I just take the short walk to Agios Mammas beach right here in the town.  After all, it is the same sun and sea as anyone will find elsewhere around the island, perhaps just not quite as peaceful as the Spetsiots go about their daily business and chores on their preferred mode of transport – motorbikes and scooters.  One day I was quite amused by a middle-aged guy doing his press ups at the water’s edge then juggling pebbles picked up off the beach.

As much as I would love to do so, I am not visiting the Bar every night.  The late nights, or should I say early mornings, take their toll and I hate missing any part of the wonderful Spring days.  They are always, without exception, fun times in the Bar … catching up with old friends from the past and meeting new people.  This past week, Steve who skippered “Spindrift” for 12 years, based on Spetses … we had not seen Steve since 2010 and he turned up out of the blue.  Also Ian who visits the island frequently … I well remember the first time we met in 2010 on a day when the sea was rough and for safety reasons, the Flying Dolphin could not dock … we were taken back to the mainland.  Together with three others, Ian and I shared a taxi from Porto Heli to Kosta then a water taxi across.  Lara has been visiting from Athens too and we met Paul from the UK … all have left the island for now.  One night I met Alex – Greek father, Kiwi mother, born and bred in New Zealand.  Alex and her husband Vaggeles who is from Spetses, live here with their 18 month old son Dimitris.

My good friends Paddy and Wendy are here from Ireland for a three-week stay.  On Saturday night I caught up with them in the Bar early for a couple of drinks, then we went to Triporto for dinner … sharing three yummy dishes, including Lahanodolmades (stuffed cabbage rolls) filled with ground meat and rice and covered with an egg and lemon sauce.  Costas and I have eaten out a couple of days for lunch at Spetsiotiko and Bouboulina … at the latter I particularly enjoyed the Fava, a puree made from yellow split peas and topped with olive oil, lemon juice, chopped red onion and parsley.  Of course, I am enjoying cooking too … anything from a full English breakfast to Greek cuisine.  Today I made an oven baked chicken and potato dish for lunch … tonight a big pot of chicken soup to have on hand in the freezer.

Aside from busying myself  in the kitchen and taking care of other domestic chores, I have spent many hours sorting and putting into albums all of Costas’ photographs from his trip in February to Hong Kong, Vietnam, Australia and New Zealand.  I just need Costas to buy one more album.  It has been a labour of love but I am almost there.

Footnote:  To date I have been unable to fathom out why when I Publish Images on my page “Photos 2013” I cannot seem to get them in either an ascending or descending order, so please be sure to scroll down the page if you do not want to miss any of them.

On my way to Agios Mammas beach

On Thursday the rain came … a welcome arrival for most after a rather dry Winter, however, not well-timed for the olive trees now in flower.  Feeling optimistic I walked down to the beach in the morning … alas, the clouds thickened, there was to be no sunbathing nor swim for me that day.   Vanna had invited me on Friday to visit late in the afternoon … I had walked only a short distance when Roma came along and gave me a lift to very close to their house.  I had not expected to stay for dinner but it was insisted upon and it was after midnight when Roma and Vanna drove me home.

By Saturday the sun had returned and so, naturally, I was back at the beach.  Katina had made Yemista (stuffed tomatoes, peppers, courgettes, courgette flowers and vine leaves) for lunch … one of my favourite Greek dishes, I could eat them every day.  Johanna and Antoni arrived in the evening from Hania so another feast … barbecued chicken, fried potatoes and a wonderful salad – we always seem to be eating and drinking with family and friends.

All too soon Sunday arrived, where had the week gone.  After the usual sad and tearful farewells, Kostoula walked with me to wave me off on the 1630 hours bus to Hania.  My friends Jillie and Rick were due to arrive in Hania that evening at 2115 hours and we hoped to catch up for a late supper.  Jillie telephoned me from Hania Airport and I took a taxi to meet them at their hotel from where we went to Kou Kou Vaya (The Owl) a Music Cafe with unforgettable views just below the Venizelos Graves in Hania.  It was wonderful to see them again after quite some time … they drove me back to Antonia and Vassiles home, I did not sleep well, feeling anxious about my early start in the morning and travel to Spetses.

Up at 0630 hours, Antonia dropped me at the Bus Station, 0800 hours bus to Hania Airport, 0925 hours flight with Aegean Air to Athens, bus to Port of Piraeus and a long wait for the 1415 hours Flying Dolphin hydrofoil to Spetses where I arrived around 1630 hours … a smiling Costas at the port to meet me – it felt wonderful to be back in my other home.  The four cats too appeared happy to see me.  Late in the evening I walked down to the Bar … rather quiet everywhere, however, it was after 0300 hours before closing and home to bed.

Yesterday I did not leave the house … easing myself back into life here – cooking, squeezing lemons, a spot of gardening and ironing, then an early night for me.  Awoke this morning to a beautiful Spring day … I just had to go down to Agios Mammas beach for a couple of hours, home for lunch, a long afternoon siesta and now soon I will get ready for another night out in Bar Spetsa.  Not a bad life and just reward for all my weeks of hard work back in New Zealand.

Table laid at Vanna and Roma’s

My physical being left Greece on 5 December 2012, however, my heart remained in Ellada.  I travelled back to New Zealand, to family and work, the time passing slowly until Costas arrived in February to spend two weeks with me downunder … an amazing time together with family and friends.  After his departure I began counting down the weeks until once again I was on my way back to my adopted home.

The usual sad and difficult farewell to family at Wanganui Airport … approximately one hour later arriving in Auckland.  With my trolleycase checked in, I filled in time until my dear friend Vivienne arrived, sharing a bottle of wine as we usually do.  When I reserved my seat on the 380-800, I was too late to secure 50A – chose 65A … not wise!  It was exactly by a toilet and anyone who has travelled on a big ‘bird’ will know how loud is the flush – it sounds like it is swallowing up the entire world!  The bonus, however, was three seats all to myself as far as Melbourne, enabling me to put my feet up.  From Melbourne to Dubai, almost a full plane.  The usual shopping spree in Dubai filling in time as best as one can, then onwards to Athens.  With very little time to spare I made it on to my Aegean Air flight to Hania, collecting my case from the carousel, only to find that the Greek baggage handling staff had broken the handle making it difficult to navigate my walk to Antonia’s house, once off the bus I had taken into the Centre.  40 hours door-to-door, the final leg walking in 29 degrees C heat – I was exhausted!

Saturday morning, Antonia and I went to the beach … a spot of sunbathing, followed by my first swim in a relatively warm sea.  Back at the house, Antonia and Vassiles son Bill, together with his wife Rena and their two year old twins, Maria and Vasilakes joined us for lunch.  Late in the evening Antonia went to church, returning with her lit candle.  Last year I had gone with her but this year, I felt too tired.  By 0830 hours on Sunday morning, we were on our way to Kastelli.

A warm welcome from the family … the weather glorious and what is more, it was Easter Sunday.  Not long before the goat was roasting on the spit … the day would be a day for family and friends, food, wine and much merriment.  When I finally made it upstairs to my bed at 2230 hours, I had a 10 hour sleep, the likes of which I generally can only dream of.  The following morning I walked down to Kastelli beach, an hour in the sun, another swim then back to the house where Vanna and Roma had come to see me.  Lunch, followed by an afternoon siesta, then with Vassiles, Katina and Anna, we went to Vanna and Roma’s for coffee.  Not surprisingly, we stayed on … Roma spit roasted chicken, Vanna made pilaf and salads … a feast was laid on the table for family and friends … a ten year old wine just the icing on the cake.

Yesterday, I was back at the beach for another dose of sun and sea … home in time for lunch and a meal of Horta … delicious.  The weather has changed a little, this morning being slightly overcast and so I walked to Vanna’s to write my first Blog, publish Images and contemplate how I will cope today without the sun and the sea.  It is, however, an opportunity to write and this trip I must walk to Vanna’s to do so as there is no longer WiFi connection at the family home.

Only five more sleeps until I move on to Spetses and Costas.  Although I could never come to Greece and not visit my Cretan family, Costas is the main reason I return now twice every year for a stay of two months duration.  Having first stepped foot on Greek soil in 1973, it was during my six month stay in 2010 and meeting Costas that changed the path of my life forever.

Acropolis Museum

Monday 3 December 2012 dawned sunny on the island of Spetses … following breakfast at Filippos, Costas and I departed on the Flying Dolphin at the slightly later time of 1150 hours.  First stop Hydra, then Poros … so far, so good.  Then, somewhere between Poros and Piraeus the weather changed completely … forced to travel at a snail’s pace, the large swells going right over us.  Quite terrifying, actually – I was pleased to reach dry land.  We walked to the Metro Station and caught the train to Monasteraki … from there it was only a short walk to Carolina Hotel in Kolokotroni Street – very central.

After checking in, we decided to take the tram from Syntagma to Glyfada, where Costas hoped to leave his watch for servicing at the Rolex shop.  Monday evening, of course, and the shops were closed so he left his card under the door and we went for a couple of beers at Riva Bar before catching the tram back to Syntagma Square.  Then it was time to check out a bar Costas had heard about … Galaxy Bar, in an arcade off Stadiou Street – what a wee gem!  An extremely pleasant young man behind the bar, also named Costas, said he had worked there for four years.  The clientele appeared bohemian in the main … artists, writers and intellectual Athenians I would say.

Needing to eat, we walked back towards Monasteraki to Bairaktaris Restaurant … established in 1879, I understand Costas has been eating there for years.  We shared plates of Briam, Dolmathakia and Soutzoukakia, the latter being on the house, with a half litre of white wine.  The food and atmosphere were superb, however, I thought the large collection of photographs on the walls featuring the owner was a little over the top and the live music, playing “Never on a Sunday” and such like … well, no thank you, I am not a tourist.  Next stop, Throubi Bar, the owner of which used to have a bar on Spetses.  Great music but way too loud so back to Galaxy and this time, an older barman – Yani, in my opinion, short on integrity.  Costas’ Grand Marnier’s were served in a stemmed glass – half measures and expensive, however, I still feel that this bar was a great little find.  Eventually retiring to our hotel, I have to say that both the pillows and bed were very good by Greek standards – I hate the hard continental beds.

The following day, Tuesday, Costas was out and about earlier than I, seeing to this and that.  When we ventured out together to walk to the Acropolis Museum, with a stop for coffee on the way, it was all blue sky and sunshine, although the air was cool … but remember, this is the beginning of winter in Greece.  The Museum, well what can I say … mind-blowing, definitely worth visiting, it has to now be one of the best in the world.  Unfortunately, you are only allowed to take photographs on Level 3 and so many of the exhibits there have chunks missing which are in other museums around the world, mainly the British Museum … I think that sucks!  Anyway, we had a rather nice lunch at the Museum Cafe and after we had seen all we wanted to see, walked back to our hotel for a siesta, via the Eleftheroudakis bookshop. 

Evening number 2 and it was dinner at Hermion, another restaurant Costas has been familiar with for years.  Started our meal with a shared Roka and Tomato Salad and Dolmades in a Lemon and Egg Sauce.  For my main I chose the Lamb of the Day, served with rice, sweet peppers and mushrooms – delicious!  A lovely bottle of white wine and finishing our meal with a complimentary piece of Orange Cake which was to die for!  Then, guess what?  Back to Galaxy Bar, however, only for a short time and we were in the hotel before 2200 hours … the following day I would begin my long journey back to New Zealand.

Wednesday morning, partly cloudy weather, similar to my mood … Costas bought Koulourakia, those yummy chewy bread rings covered in sesame seeds which are sold by street vendors all over Athens.  We walked to Syntagma Square to catch the X95 bus to Athens Airport, arriving around 1230 hours.  First a coffee, then time to check in, before a beer for Costas and a wine for me … the time had arrived to once again say our sad farewells – it does not become any easier.  Did my duty-free shopping then while I was waiting to board, I noticed that the rain had arrived.  Once airborne, as always, the reality hits – I am leaving Greece and I do not like it.  Listened to The Vinyl Years, watched the sunset, by 1700 hours Greek time we were over Cyprus and I knew Costas should be departing Piraeus to return to Spetses without me.  Tried to think about not where I had been, nor where I was going to … rather savour the moment as an International traveller on a complimentary journey from Athens to Auckland.  2145 hours local time and 25 degrees C, touch down in Dubai … passport control, luggage collection, then a free shuttle bus to the Holiday Inn Express Airport Hotel.  Nice room, Internet, tea/coffee-making facilities, however, no wake up calls … not the best night’s sleep, a lot of TV viewing, up again at 0510 hours, passed on the complimentary breakfast and back at the airport by 0655 hours. 

Scheduled to depart Dubai at 1010 hours, we sat on the tarmac for the best part of an hour and a half … informed by the Captain that a sick young boy and his parents had been off loaded and we had missed our place in the queue.  There is something like 30 aeroplanes taking off every hour from Dubai to all parts of the world and I would guess, a similar number of arrivals.  I was in my favourite seat 50A, front cabin, back row, window, with a Russian guy I think next to me who did not speak at all and an Aussie bloke who has lived many years in the UK in the aisle seat … he and I shared a wine and a conversation when we could.  During the long haul, I watched a couple of good movies … “A Few Best Men” and “The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel” with Judi Dench.

Delayed departure from Dubai meant a delayed arrival and departure also from Melbourne and late arrival in Auckland at 1412 hours … I knew I could be in trouble trying to make my connection to Wanganui in time.  I was first of the economy passengers off the A380-800 … a fast walk to Passport Control, lengthy queues, nothing I could do.  Eventually to luggage carousel where I asked a lady wearing a T-shirt stating “Airport Assistance” to help me … I had my trolley case, however, I was still waiting for my small bag.  Told there was nothing I could do, it was too late now … I eventually cleared Customs and raced to the Air New Zealand desk – no joy there.  Hopped on the free bus to the domestic terminal with Louise, a delightful young Irish lass who had come to visit her boyfriend Curtis – he is working on the Rena and Louise had also missed her flight to Tauranga.  Arriving at the Air New Zealand ticketing desk, Louise was okay as she had paid heavily for her original ticket and was able to transfer to a later flight at no cost.  Mine was a $99 Grabaseat – non transferable – advised there was one seat available on the 1830 hours flight to Wanganui – cost?  $434 – gulp!  So, so tired and frustrated by now I said to myself, it is only money and took it.

1920 hours touchdown in Wanganui and met by my son Dave and his girlfriend Kayla who took me to mum’s where my sister Janet was also waiting.  A nice cup of tea, I distributed their gifts, then Dave took me home – exhausted.  Now I have spent my first week back at the coal face and it has been a very busy time.  So many wonderful memories and once more the countdown begins until next I return to my other home in Greece and of course, to Costas … I miss him so much.

Sitting outside at Delfinia – Spetses

Here it is, Sunday afternoon and I have just one night remaining on Spetses for now … the realization of it all has not registered with me yet.  Perhaps that is partly due to the fact that tomorrow morning at 1135 hours, Costas and I will depart the island together on the Flying Dolphin bound for Athens.  We have booked a hotel in the city centre for a two night stay … Costas has things he wants to do in Athens and we both wish  to visit the new Acropolis Museum.  On Wednesday, Costas will farewell me at Athens Airport, my Emirates flight departs for Dubai at 1550 hours and by 1700 hours, Costas will be on the Flying Dolphin returning to Spetses.  A great plan actually, as it means I have avoided the very early departure time of 0615 hours from Spetses on Wednesday and a subsequent lengthy wait for most of the day at Athens airport … all very civilized!

This past week, Costas has continued working at the Bar.  With help from Roger painting, Tea cleaning, Costas varnishing tables and chairs etc and the occasional help from me … in a few more days all will be ready for opening night on 21 December, through to about 6 January and the Greek will be feeling extremely pleased with himself.

Many days I have continued to enjoy the opportunity to cook … it is so nice to do so and to sit down and share a meal with someone.  One day I made a very nice fish soup, another day I cooked chops with potatoes in the oven – loads of lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, mustard, rosemary, salt and pepper then yesterday, I made a most impressive spaghetti bolognese.  The day too was impressive and so when Costas came home early afternoon suggesting we take a walk together down to the Old Harbour, I jumped at the opportunity.  On the way back we stopped at a seafront establishment to sit right on the waterfront in the sunshine and share a nice cold beer.  Then Costas suggested we should have a salad with calamari and another beer … the spaghetti bolognese would keep for today.

During the week we were out a few evenings … one night to Mayo, Thursday first to Delfinia and then on to Votsalo where Mike and Nick were playing.  Last night once again to Delfinia, then on to Votsalo, keeping company with Panayiotes and Christos.  The best movie of the week would have to be “Sling Blade”.  Our best takeaway of the week, a tie between souvlaki from Cockatoo and pizza from Filippos.

I had been wanting to visit Costas’ mum’s grave and on Wednesday we went together to the cemetery at the Monastery of Agia Pantes.  On 19 January it will be a year since her passing and Costas has a need to be on the island at that time.  However, all things being equal, he will visit me in New Zealand around late January/early February.  In any case, I plan to be back in Greece next year, arriving just in time to once again spend Easter with my family on Crete before moving on to Spetses and Costas.  Tentative date of 2 May departure and a late June return, enabling me to be on Spetses for the Classic Yacht Races too.  In a few days’ time I will be back in Wanganui with many things to do, however, I do hope to find the time to write just one more Blog about our time in Athens and my journey back to New Zealand.

Us with Christina and Nikolas in Delfinia

Oh man, are we blessed or just lucky, or what?  To be living on this beautiful island, where in the main, the days continue to be gloriously sunny, more like May or September/October … not the end of November.  This past week, Costas has been busy painting and cleaning at the Bar … today like many others, I have been for a wonderful walk around the Old Harbour, through all the back streets of town … wherever my feet want to take me.

Last Monday we did have rain … a lot of rain and thunder in the distance.  I made a Greek style Vegetable Soup using onions, garlic, leeks, carrots, beans, green and red peppers, aubergine, courgettes and broccoli … in Costas words, it was a killer! (as were the Fakes I made later in the week, adding red wine as I do and lots of finely chopped garlic).  In the evening we ventured out in the pouring rain to have a couple of drinks at Mayo.  Costas was worried that the Bar may have flooded as it has done several times before and so we decided we should go and see the situation firsthand.  Fortunately, there was a large hole at a new building site across the road and the waters had all flowed into there … what a relief.  Being close to Delfinia, we popped in for our last drinks of the night then home.

During evenings spent quietly by the fire, we have enjoyed several excellent movies … this past week “Colombiana” starring our very own Cliff Curtis, “Good Will Hunting” which only I had seen before and was more than happy to watch again and “We need to talk about Kevin”.  Also, Costas has finished writing his many Christmas cards … they are ready for the post and so he is feeling quite pleased with himself.  I too have finished reading “Attic In Greece” by Austen Kark … I had read it many years’ ago, however, it was even better the second time around. 

The weekend has seen us, once again, very social … on Friday Christina telephoned Costas from Athens to say she and her boyfriend Nikolas were coming to Spetses for the weekend and it was arranged that we would meet them for dinner that evening at Paxni.  The two families of  “the kids” as Costas calls them, both have houses on the island.  I had not met them before but their company was excellent and we all had a wonderful time.  Christina lived in Paris for five years studying fashion until she graduated last year … her clothing winning her the International Award at the London Graduate Fashion Week.   As always, the atmosphere, food and wine at Paxni was second to none, enhanced that night by live music.  We then met up at Votsalo Bar with Costas and I ending our night once again in Boggi.  Last night we met Christina and Nikolas at Nektarios for dinner … another superb meal.  Then for us it was a walk back into town to meet “the kids” at Delfinia … plans to be home by 2255 hours to watch a selected movie failed miserably … we two were the last to leave the bar, arriving home at 0130 hours. 

Tonight Costas has gone to meet John at Socrates Sports Bar to watch live the football game between his team Tottenham and John’s team West Ham.  When it is over he will return to collect me from the house to go out for a quiet meal at Filippos then home to watch the movie “Philadelphia”.  With only ten days remaining until once again I must say farewell to Costas and the island … it does not get any easier.