Itisallgreek2me

Costas and I, Carol, Christos and Panayiotes in Delfinia

As I was writing my Blog last Sunday, Costas came home from the bank, telling me to take a walk down to the Dapia.  High winds, rain and a raging sea … the waves were crashing in over the jetty and seafront road – it was quite a spectacle.  However, as I was standing up on steps in front of a building on the seafront road, endeavouring to take snapshots, in came a huge wave.  It really frightened me and immediately the water had receded, I hot footed it home.  Later that afternoon, Costas suggested that we go take another look and watch from Mayo … at the same time we could have a couple of drinks, which we did.  It was unbelievable to think that just two days earlier we had seen people still swimming in the sea.  That night we stayed up until 0200 hours, keeping an eye on all the containers we had placed around the house to collect water from our leaking roof.  There appears to be no uniformity … each time there is heavy rain, the leaks come in new locations.

Monday evening around 1800 hours, we went down to Destino.  Still the waves were coming, however, nothing like the day before.  That day we had walked all the way to Vrellos and return … an estimated 8-10 kilometres.  It was a pleasant, mild day, with only light winds and we both really enjoyed it.  On Tuesday I made Yiachni (potatoes in tomato and onion sauce) for lunch which was delicious.  Eaten with crusty bread, olives and feta is also very nice.  In the evening we had dinner with Alexandra (a fellow Kiwi), her husband Vagelis and their young son Dimitris.  It was great to spend a little time with another New Zealander.

Wednesday it was cold, however, being my last Wednesday night on the island for now, I felt compelled to go down to Delfinia and watch the guys playing Pool.  Costas bowed out early to spend time with me and it was while we were sitting at the bar that I learnt Delfinia will close on 6 January with a big party … the guys are opening a new establishment right on the beachfront at Mamas.  With a large terrace – what a fantastic location it will be.

There was very little wintry about Thursday here on Spetses.  We decided to take a walk around the island, as far as we could get in an hour and 20 minutes or so, then turn around … 2 hours 45 minutes in all.  Not a cloud in sight …that day felt more like Springtime.  I wore only a T-shirt but there was a chill in the air when we were out of the sun.  In the evening, of course, we heard of Nelson Mandela’s passing … a sad day, what a man!

The next day, Costas was not keen to walk and so I went alone, down to the Old Harbour, returning through many of the back streets … yet another beautiful day.  It was the 6th of December, the Feast Day of St. Nicholas and the day when many Greeks exchange gifts.  We had arranged to meet Panayiotes and Carol that evening in Delfinia.  During conversation that night we realized their son Christos and my son Dave share the same birthdate – 12 July 1988 … amazing coincidence.

Yesterday we went out for coffee at Roumani in the Dapia.  Sitting in the sun, overlooking the sea … surely it is what dreams are made of.  In the evening we had dinner with Penny at Akrogialia Taverna in Kounoupitsa.  What a treasure of a place … small, intimate, great atmosphere, greek music, great service and wonderful fresh well prepared food.  In the summer months they have tables out across the road on the sand … somewhat like a scene from Shirley Valentine.  But it was cold last night and we felt the sleet on our faces as we walked there and back home … of course, to play Scrabble.

Today I have not left the house.  The fire has been lit since early in the day and I am quite content … just me and the four cats right now as Costas has gone out to meet with Panayiotes and be out of the house for a while.  On Thursday when we were walking, Marinos came by on his motor scooter carrying a plastic bag of eggs he had just collected from his hens.  He very kindly gave the eggs to us and today for lunch I made a big omelette and salad.

So Winter it is and Winter it is not but whatever, on Wednesday we leave Spetses on the late morning hydrofoil to spend three nights in Athens.  Sadly, Costas will farewell me at the airport on Saturday afternoon before returning to the island and I will begin my long journey back to New Zealand.  Hopefully, I will return to Greece in time to spend Easter 2014 with my extended family on Crete, however, much depends on what happens with my family back home during the intervening months.  I will return to Costas and this island paradise when I can, however, just when that will be I cannot be sure.  With no working computer to take home, sadly this will probably be my last Blog for now.

Me with one of our new found friends

This past week, we have enjoyed long walks in the hills, on perfect, sunny days.  However, these days have also been interspersed with days of grey skies and rain.  On Monday when we walked, two small, charming dogs decided to come along with us.  I was concerned they would not find their way back home, however, when we decided not to continue on to Panaghia Elona for fear darkness would set in before we got back, the dogs also turned around, not leaving us until they were near to where they had joined us.  I am sure they appreciated our company as much as we did theirs.

Wednesday afternoon saw us again heading up into the hills, all the way to the ridge and returning via Gorgoepikou Monastery.  That night Costas went to Delfinia for his weekly dose of Pool … when Marilyn telephoned to say she would be going down, I decided to go too.  A pleasant evening, as always.

Friday we agreed to make a large pot of fish soup, enough for our meal that day, as well as a container or two for the freezer.  In the past, we have always made this soup with frozen cod, but this time Costas decided to go to the fish market to buy the small, oily fish suited to our needs.  He brought the fish home in a plastic carry bag … tipped them into a plastic bowl in the kitchen sink, turning on the hot tap.  What followed totally freaked us both out!  The poor fish began flapping about … they were still very much alive – how fresh is that!  Costas response “What am I supposed to do now?”  It was too late, we had already inadvertently tortured them and neither of us felt very good about that.

Yesterday we were both back in the kitchen, this time to make Briam (baked vegetables) for today.  Under my tutorial, Costas declared the dish the best Briam ever … a happier achievement therefore than the previous day’s effort.

Last evening we braved wet and windy conditions to go out for a meal at Merakles Taverna … it was my first time there.  In the traditional Greek way, we shared Mezes (starters) … five dishes and all very delicious, washed down with the house white wine.  From Merakles, we moved on to Delfinia for a couple of drinks, sitting at the bar and enjoying the music, until Costas suggested we play Pool … first person to win three games would be declared the winner.  Much like Scrabble, Pool is not a game I have ever played a great deal of although it is a game I enjoy.  The score was 2-2 … in the decider it came down to the last ball – the black, potted by Costas, however, not a bad effort by the girlfriend.

So, we are making the most of these relaxing days, conscious of the fact that our time together is fast heading towards yet another sad farewell.

A Deserted Kaiki Beach – Spetses

Picture the scene.  Sunday morning on Spetses and I am in bed.  Costas and I played Scrabble last evening until around 0200 hours in the morning.  He has already brought me a nice cup of tea, I have read a chapter of my book and now he brings me Bruschetta which goes down a treat.  It is raining outside, fortunately not too heavy today and we have only one leak and that is in the kitchen.  The shutters and windows are open to let in a little fresh air … one cat sitting on the windowsill, another two asleep on the bed with me, none of us in a hurry to go anywhere.  A lifestyle I will be reluctant to leave … in the short space of three weeks from now, I will be once again somewhere between Greece and New Zealand heading back to my family and my other home.

Costas and I have often talked about playing Scrabble … with his analytical brain, he is a master of the game – I cannot recall when ever I played, it must have been many years’ ago.  So now it has become our favourite pastime … slowly, slowly, I have grasped the strategies of the game and to my great delight, yesterday we played four games of which I won two – for this, I am extremely happy.

The weather of late has been something of a mixed bag, however, we have had a couple of days, although a little cool, with clear blue skies and sunshine … ideal for walking.  On Thursday we left the house late afternoon to walk to the Old Harbour and onwards to the lighthouse.  On our return, popped into Throubi for a drink and later Mayo once we were back and close to home.  On Friday, headed off in the other direction, walking to Ligoneri, stopping on the way back for a cold beer at The Havana Club with its enviable seafront location.  That evening, after a short siesta, we walked to meet John and Julie for dinner at Nektarios … I wanted to thank John for all his help when I had my computer woes.  As always, the meal there was thoroughly enjoyable, however, John and Julie insisted on splitting the bill and I had no answer for that.  Yesterday afternoon we enjoyed lunch with Christina and Nikolas at “To Nero Tis Agapes” (The Water of Love), a lovely restaurant and once again, located right on the seafront.  Here from Athens for the weekend, Christina and Nikolas drank ouzo, Costas and I shared a very nice bottle of wine.  Fish soup, a wonderful salad, kalamari, a platter of roasted vegetables and another dish I was not so keen on.  Left there at quite a pace … it was starting to rain and we wanted to make it to Roussos Cafe Bar for coffee without getting soaked.  Came home to play our first two games of Scrabble … when we felt the need for a break, walked down to Destino for a drink or two then back to the house for another two games of Scrabble.  The beauty of where we live is, even at this time of the year with many businesses closed, we can still pop out at anytime and within a couple of minutes walk, we have the choice of three Cafe Bars to visit – Delfinia, Destino and Mayo.  Right now, Costas is at Delfinia watching his team Tottenham play live on the big screen.

Our open fire burns every day from sometime in the afternoon until we retire at night.  It is not that it is terribly cold, however, it does create a wonderful atmosphere and it certainly helps to keep the air dry as the reality of winter on a Greek island can mean a lot of dampness.  So it is a cosy little scene … when all our chores are done at the Bar and at the house, if we choose to stay in, we can always play Scrabble or read.  I am about half way through the novel “Middlesex” by Jeffrey Eugenides.  Of Greek/Irish descent, I read online how the book took him nine years to write.  In 2003, it won the Pulitzer Prize for Fiction … in parts, quite a heavy read, however, I am thoroughly enjoying it.  Besides, there is nothing about my life here on Spetses to not enjoy!

Footnote:  Although I still seem to maintain an interest in taking photographs of scenes, I do seem to have lost my interest a little in taking pics when out and about with friends.  I believe this is probably because it sometimes feels like an intrusion on our lives … I am not really sure, however, I apologise and hope you all still find the images I publish interesting.

Thursday morning in the Square – Spetses

10 days’ ago it was still very possible to go and sunbathe at the beach, followed by a refreshing dip in the sea.  Even when we took our short break to the island of Poros with Ray and Heather, the weather was kind to us, just as it had been almost every single day since my arrival here on 21 October.  Alas, this past week we have been caught up in a dramatic turn of events on the island.

It all began on Wednesday 13 November.  Awoke to a reasonable looking day, a light wind blowing with outbreaks of sunshine, ideal weather to hang out the washing I thought and feeling positive I would get it dry.  However, it was not long before the clouds began to roll in, followed by thunder and lightning … the skies opened and down came torrential rain.  That afternoon the weather was fair and by 2000 hours, Costas walked down to Delfinia where on Wednesday evenings he enjoys a few games of Pool with friends.  About an hour later, I followed … umbrella in hand – it was calm and mild with only minor precipitation.  Met up with the girls and other friends who had come to see Ray and Heather … they would be leaving on Friday to make their annual journey back to Aberdeen for the winter.  With the music resembling that played in Bar Spetsa, we happily talked and laughed a lot as we enjoyed our drinks and nibbles.

Outside a ferocious storm was brewing … thunder, fork lightning striking the sea and lighting up the sky, gale force winds and rain that became heavier and heavier.  From time to time Vagelis would go outside to release the rainwater collecting on top of the awnings … each time we were amused as he lifted up a chair to prod  the awning on its underside.  A handful of people had already left Delfinia, making their way home safely but those of us remaining would be in for the long haul.

What developed was an electrical storm, the likes of which Costas had never witnessed in his 26 years on the island.  With howling winds and torrential rain, we watched helplessly from the doorway as chairs, tables and all manner of things were swept in muddy water, down the main seafront road of the town and on to Agios Mammas beach.  With the water almost coming inside the door at Delfinia, we feared for the state of Bar Spetsa, however, there was nothing we could do.  Eventually Penny left on her quad and against all odds, somehow made it to a spot near their house up the hill, walking the last little bit of the way, then arriving home to find there was no electricity.

Eventually, around 0230 hours, with no let up in the thunder and lightning, the water receded enough for us to make our break and walk home, unsure what we would find on arrival.  Our little house is old, the original part having been built in 1895, the remainder at some later time.  The roof is old and really needs replacing, however, apparently this is something the landlady is not prepared to do and so when heavy rain is expected, we position pots, bowls and whatever else we can find, under all the known leaking spots throughout the house, to collect the water.  Costas had returned to the house once during the evening and all appeared fine.

The first place we checked was our bed … relieved to find it was dry.  As I always do anytime on returning home, I then went to turn on my computer which sat on the coffee table in our living room.  Nothing happened and to my horror, I found my computer was full of water!  A leak in a new place, in a line, directly across the couch and coffee table, exactly where I had always left my computer.  The upshot of this … we tried drying it out, however, no joy.  On Friday evening I visited our friends John and Julie to see if there was anything John could do for me or rather my computer.  Although my Acer PC Notebook is buggered, John has been able to retrieve everything off my hard drive and has set up and lent me a laptop to work on, for which I am most grateful.

There was very little sleep for either of us on Wednesday night as I worried about my computer and Costas worried about the state of Bar Spetsa.  On Thursday morning, Costas left the house to assess the damage at the Bar … fortunately, things there were much better than expected.  The muddy water had not entered much further than just beyond the bar itself and the necessary cleanup was minimal.  Other parts of the town did not fare so well, in particular, the main Square which lies a short 15 metres or so from our home.  There is a natural riverbed which runs through this part of town and some time in the past, non-thinking half wits have erected shops and restaurants over the stream, the path of which has been considerably narrowed as the water has still to make its way under the erected buildings and out to sea.  With all the mud and debris washed down from the hills, this waterway became blocked and had no-show of coping with the amount of water and so the water had nowhere else to go but through all the premises around the Square.

At Boggi a door caved in at the side and as the water rushed through this establishment and out through the front door, a young employee inside was lucky to escape with his life.  Clock Restaurant fared poorly as well … most of their outside tables and chairs were swept away and inside, the power of the surging waters upturned ovens and fridges.  Quarter, the pizza restaurant at the bottom end of the Square appears to have come off worst … peering in through broken windows, I could see where the level of the muddy waters had reached 1.5 – 2.0 meters up the walls.  A complete and utter disaster and let’s not forget, many of these businesses  had been struggling  anyway under the current economic climate here in Greece, with concerns of how they will be able to survive.  Some will have the means to start again … for others it will be the end of the road.

The massive cleanup began early on Thursday, continuing late into the night.  With hoses supplying only a trickle of water , we had no water at all at the house for more than 24 hours.  With people shovelling mud and very little in the way of machinery to help them.  Four days on and the cleanup continues … this will be a major setback here on our little island paradise.  It is now Sunday … last night when we were out at Paxni for dinner and later in Delfinia, I did hear that Spetses was declared a disaster area and that the State would pay for everything but this I cannot confirm.

Costas and I – My Birthday Night in Delfinia

Last Tuesday, 5 November 2013, was my birthday.  Costas sent me shopping for a new bikini … came home with a gorgeous one, however, with such a busy social calendar last week, I never managed to christen it and now the weather has changed, that will almost certainly have to wait until next year – nevermind.

That evening we walked down to Nektarios in the Old Harbour, arriving in time for the fireworks display around 1930 hours … very impressive it was too.  Together with a couple of dozen friends, we were to have dinner there, just as we had done the previous two years.  Ray had pre-arranged the food selection, with more than enough to go around and Costas had ordered my birthday cake.  This year it was a bitter chocolate cake … really yummy!  On our walk back to the Dapia, Anna and Penny came along on their quads, picking us up and taking us the rest of the way to Delfinia.  About a dozen of us met up there for drinkies … the music was great, the company all in high spirits – a very enjoyable night was had by all.

Wednesday saw the arrival of thunderstorms with pelting wind and rain.  In the evening Costas went to play Pool with mates at Delfinia … I went along too and kept company with Heather and Marilyn, until Marilyn went home and Heather and I played our own few games.  On Thursday I spent a quiet day at home, doing this and that and making ready for a short trip away to Poros with Ray and Heather on Friday.  We met at Filippos before taking a water taxi late morning across to Kosta.  A short walk to where Ray’s black Jaguar (the Beast) is parked and on our way, driving north to Galatas, from where the ferries make the very short journey over to the island of Poros.

The weather was glorious, as it would be for our two days away … how lucky were we.  Also lucky to find a car parking space very near to our hotel, the 7 Brothers, which Ray had booked the previous day.  For Costas and I, Room 21, on the 2nd floor, with a balcony and sea views.  Quickly unpacked then met up for lunch at Rota, a taverna nearby, where we had the most delicious lunch of Chefs Salad, Dolmadakia (stuffed vine leaves), Kolokithikeftedes (courgette fritters) and fresh Kalamari … all washed down with a lovely white wine.  I will remember this meal for a very long time.  From there we took a stroll through the streets of Poros, slowly making our way up to the Clock Tower, back down to Memories Cafe on the waterfront for drinks then back to our hotel for a siesta, meeting up again at 2030 hours.  Dinner was at Dimitris … Ray and Heather knew of this place from previous visits, tucked away some 500m up the hill.  Specializing in meats, we all decided on a filet steak as our main and no one was disappointed.  Returned to Memories where we had been in the afternoon, warm enough to sit outside although Costas did spend a spell inside at the bar, requesting they play a selection of his favourite Greek music to which he could sing along in his usual monotone … needless to say, he was very happy.  When Memories wanted to close, we walked and found another bar open close to our hotel, however, we did not stay long, returning to 7 Brothers for a great night’s sleep.

Blessed with another beautiful day on Saturday, we began by having an English breakfast in a nearby cafe, before getting in the car to explore a little of the island, including a visit to the Temple of Poseidon.  Then it was back to Memories before taking the short ferry ride to the mainland, from where we were to make our way a little further north to the mountain village of Taktikoupoli.  Costas’ grandfather came from this village and Costas had not been there since he was about nine.  It was mid afternoon – siesta time and not a soul to been seen, however, I noticed a kind of general store which once had also been a taverna and there inside were an elderly couple … the lady was feeding the obviously unwell man his midday meal.  Costas got talking to her, explaining who he was and why we were there.  Eventually she said “Kai Ego Emai Gikas” (and me, I am Gikas – Costas’ surname) … Chrissoula’s grandfather and Costas’ grandfather were brothers!

As a young boy, Costas’ parents would send him from Athens to this village for holidays when they were both too busy with his father’s restaurant to keep an eye on him.  The last time Costas had been in the village, his uncle had tied a rope around him to lower Costas into a well to rescue a chicken that had strayed.  The rescue attempt was successful and Costas went back to Athens feeling very pleased with himself.  There he relayed the story to his mum, she was not impressed by it and Costas was never to return to Taktikoupoli for holidays.

We arrived back in Kosta just in time to catch the 1700 hours sailing of the Katerina Star ferry over to Spetses.  Time for a much-needed siesta before meeting Ray and Heather, together with Jerry and Marilyn for dinner at Hadji’s in the Old Harbour … Saturday night and they had advertised live Greek music which was to be a guy singing, accompanied by a lady playing piano.  On the way home we stopped at Throubi down the road for drinks.  Walking back along the seafront, once again we had to say to each other, how blessed we are to be living in this paradise.

On Sunday, it was lunch in the garden for 8 at Ray and Heather’s house … a roasted leg of New Zealand lamb, plus Marie had made a Pavlova and decorated it with kiwifruit – two tastes from my other home.  Now it is Monday evening, the rain has returned and is forecast to hang around for the next 10 days.  Not to worry, after all, it is nearing mid November and I was fortunate to have a number of days at the beach during my first two weeks back on the island … I have no complaints at all.

Will the real Costas please stand up!

Every year our friends Ray and Heather come up with a theme for the closing night party at Bar Spetsa and Costas is kept in the dark until he arrives at the bar on the night.  When I was here back in May/June, Ray and Heather asked me if I could take a couple of photographs of Costas, one with a happy face, the other grumpy … Costas obliged.  These two photographs were to be used to have masks made for us all to wear at the party on closing night for the season.

Last Saturday 2 November 2013 at 1930 hours, I met Ray and Heather at the Bar where the usual helium balloons were delivered and released … this year every one inscribed with the words “Happy Costas Closing Night 2013”.  The Bar far more simply  decorated this year compared to last year’s elaborate affair which was a 25 year celebration of Costas and the  Bar.  Then it was off to Rendezvous to meet up with other friends and await the arrival of Costas around 2000 hours.  Costas passed us by on his way to Mammas Cafe where he goes every night for his coffee and no doubt he was wondering why we were all gathering at Rendezvous.  Once Costas had made his way to Bar Spetsa, we entered  en masse all wearing our masks and the party was underway.

I do not think anyone could have believed how hilarious the night would turn out to be … at times somewhat disorienting, weird and surreal.  At least that is how I felt … can you imagine how it must have been for Costas himself.  We had so many laughs … what a lot of fun it was for us all.  Needless to say, a very late night, however, marking the time when from now on we will be able to have a more normal life and quality time together for the remainder of my stay.

The weather here for late October/early November has been quite remarkable … what a wonderful time to be in Greece.  Apart from today and one other, cloudless skies, a warm blue sea and temperatures mostly reaching the mid 20’s.  Only a handful of local Greeks (mainly women) and myself making a daily pilgrimage to the beach for our dose of Vitamin D, followed by a dip in the warm salty water … Costas thinks I am crazy.  If I am lucky there will be another week before the weather takes a turn towards more wintry days and it will be time to put the bikini away until next year.

Last night we enjoyed our first opportunity to eat out … just after 2100 hours making the 10 minute walk uphill to my favourite taverna Paxni where I always have the chargrilled lamb cutlets.  The food there is local and fresh, their garden full of wonderful organic produce and the wine too is delicious.  As we were leaving, two other patrons were also on their way … Costas summoned them to give us a ride to Delfinia on their motorbikes – much easier than the walk back down the road in the dark.  With very few people out and about, most establishments were closed so a couple of drinks at Delfinia then home.  This is how it will be from now on as winter approaches, however, we can still enjoy a waterfront coffee during the day, meals out if we feel like it or find a bar open somewhere for a quiet drink in the evenings.

Last week someone came to chop back trees in our garden, letting in more light and sunshine over the winter … the garden looks really good now.  Costas has many off-season chores to complete at the Bar and at home … I will help where I can and otherwise we will simply enjoy quieter times here in this island paradise.

Sunrise over the Dapia – Spetses

Back on 16 May 2012, I spent an amazing day walking around the island and on every visit since, I have dreamt of doing the same again, however, in the other direction.  Last Friday, 1 November 2013, I achieved my goal.

Shortly after sunrise at 0707 hours, I set off from the house … this time heading east.  There was a nip in the air but with the promise of a warm, sunny day to follow.  The early morning light … something extraordinary for lovers of photography.  The Dapia looked amazing … onwards past the Havana Club, the little church on the water’s edge and a deserted Kaiki Beach.  Next Ligoneri, Vrellos, Zogeria and Korbi Bay … with an island population of just over 4,000 and with everyone but for say perhaps 100 living in the main town, there are only a handful of houses elsewhere except for in Anargyri, where there is a smallish settlement.

The asphalt road twists and winds its way around through rejuvenating pines (there have in the past been several devastating fires on Spetses) and occasional olive groves.  The only sounds … slight movement on a relatively calm sea, a goat bell and intermittent birdsong.  Alas, no nesting Rock Partridges to be seen which had been a highlight of my walk in May last year.  On the downside, far too many motorbikes passing me by but, of course, not everyone here has the luxury of time as I do to go about their business on foot.

Overlooking Agia Paraskevi beach, the cube shaped, flat roofed house now in private ownership, which I believe was the one depicted in John Fowles novel “The Magus”.  On this lovely beach I stopped near the small church to eat my lunch of chicken and salad sandwiches, sweet green grapes and a drink of juice … replenished and ready to get back on the road.  Anargyri is roughly a halfway point … I was feeling pleased with myself to have made it that far, however, the day had heated up somewhat and the going was not getting any easier.  Stripped down to bikini and camisole top, I continued my walk, past the stunning  Xilokeriza Beach and a little further on, two of the most amazing properties on the island.  Today with a super yacht moored in the bay, however, no helicopter parked on the pad … we know one of these houses belongs to the owner of the Folie Folie Group, a Greek based international company who design, manufacture and distribute jewellery, watches and fashion accessories.

From where the small island of Spetsopoula first becomes visible (owned privately by the Greek tycoon Stavros Niarchos), there are still quite a few hard kilometres to go and my legs and feet were beginning to object to the long road.  The thought did cross my mind, if someone I knew came along and offered me a ride, how tempted would I be to take it, at the same time knowing I would want to complete what I had set out to do.  Passing through Kouzinos then a little further on Agia Marina beach and that area of the Old Harbour, around 1330 hours I had made it to Agios Mamas beach, my regular spot in the town.  Time for a quick refreshing dip then home by 0200 hours … shattered and ready for a long siesta and a night at home.

Viv and I at De Fontein

Sunday 27 October 2013 – These are glory days.  The intensifying, uncomfortable heat of summer has gone.  The evenings are cool but by no means cold.  By day it is certainly possible to spend a couple of hours at the beach, sunbathing but not burning and the aquamarine waters are invitingly warm, that is once your body recovers from the initial shock of entry.  This past week the island has been dead although we now have an influx of visitors for the long weekend, mainly Athenians.

Each year on 28 October, Ohi Day is celebrated throughout Greece.  This was the day in 1940 when the then Greek Prime Minister Ioannis Metaxas rejected the ultimatum made by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini to allow Axis forces to enter Greek territory, signalling the beginning of Greece’s participation in World War II.

My journey here this time from New Zealand was lengthy, 47+ hours door-to-door, however, pretty uneventful.  Left Wanganui on the 0930 hours flight in order to spend a few hours with my dear friend Vivienne in Auckland.  Shared a lovely lunch at De Fontein, a Belgian Beer Cafe in Mission Bay, departing Auckland on the 1830 hours flight to Dubai, via Brisbane.  A slightly nerve-racking time there … on the runway, gaining speed and about to takeoff when suddenly – brakes on and takeoff aborted.  Apparently, there had been a surge and sparking in one of the engines which needed to be checked out.  A cockpit meeting followed with controllers in Dubai who incredibly, via satellite, knew exactly what was going on and eventually gave their okay for us to go.

As luck would have it, there was a spare seat between myself sitting by the window and a lady with a bad cough in the aisle seat so for the long haul, I was able to have my feet up for much of the time … not exactly comfortable but certainly preferable to another bum right there.  The usual shopping at Dubai Airport, a couple of beers in the Heineken Lounge then onwards to Athens, this time with 3 seats all to myself and a wonderful opportunity to lie down.

Greeted by a beautiful day in Athens, sunshine and clear skies.  Hopped on a very full bus, bound for the Port of Piraeus where as expected, my hydrofoil ticket was awaiting me, arranged by Costas.  A long wait sitting in the sun until 1830 hours and at last I was on the final leg of my journey.  The usual stops at Poros, Hydra and Ermioni before reaching Spetses, disembarking with a handful of passengers to a reception committee – Costas, of course, along with Ray and Heather.  There being no one at the Bar, Costas and Ray returned there, while Heather and I walked to the house.  Understandably enough, I was shattered … unpacked only what was needed, had a shower then into a very welcome bed.

Spent my first 24 hours at home recuperating before showing my face in Bar Spetsa on Tuesday night.   Stopped in at Delfinia for a couple of drinks on our way home … what a lovely night.  Wednesday arrived and I was ready for my first taste of beach … current weather conditions may only last for another week to 10 days and so I am determined to make the most of the opportunity.

For several hours on Thursday we had no power, on Friday it was no water.  Forced to brush teeth, wash face and hands and shampoo hair with bottled water as we needed to be at Agia Marina beach at 1500 hours to farewell our good friend Mike who died in Bristol on 8 October.  Mike had lived on Spetses for at least 25 years … a musician (great harmonica player) by night and a painter/decorator by day, he had many friends on the island, of whom some 40-50 turned out on Friday for his memorial service held at the same time as his funeral was taking place in England.  He wanted no tears, no black and for everyone to wear something red, his favourite colour.  He also wanted us to play some of his favourite music tracks, in particular, from the Rolling Stones and the Beatles and to enjoy a wine or two.  Especially nice was a 2003 wine made by a friend’s grandfather on the island of Naxos from grapes grown near Marathon … sweet, golden, almost like a sherry or cognac, chemical free and potent, only to be sipped slowly.  In the last group to leave, I then hitched a ride on the back of a motorbike, on to the Bar until closing.  Two stops on the way home … first Boggi where we always enjoy the Greek music and atmosphere, then to the bakery for two pieces of freshly made Spanakopita (spinach pie) for an early 0400 hours breakfast.

A quiet day yesterday … after Costas had finished his daily chores, we met for coffee at Roumani in the Dapia, overlooking the water – all very civilized.  Of course, for me it was back to the beach in the afternoon then a quiet night at home.  Today we enjoyed our favourite lunch of babounakia (small red mullet) with fasolakia (green beans in red sauce), patates tiganetes (fries) and a shared Amstel beer at Spetsiotiko.  I had gone prepared to head straight down to the beach – it was wonderful.  Having now rested, soon it will be time for me to get ready and go into the Bar to spend time with Costas.  Yes, it is an enviable lifestyle I am once again enjoying, however, not without much thought for my family back in New Zealand with my dear mum quite unwell.  She is especially in my thoughts at this time … I love her and miss her.

Moon In My Hand

23 June 2013 – It is a regular thing for Ray and Heather, together with friends, to head to Paradise Bar at Agia Marina beach on a Sunday afternoon.  Knowing these outings can become very rowdy and it is never their intention to drink in moderation,  generally I try to avoid them.  However, being my last Sunday for this trip and with the anticipated supermoon, I decided it might just be worthwhile going down.  Left the house just after 1900 hours to make the 20 minute walk down … more akin to a stroll as the intense heat of the day was still very noticeable.  On this night, a full moon … the closest and largest of the year.  In other words, it was not just a supermoon, it was the closest supermoon of 2013 and really quite amazing.

Finding it somewhat difficult to keep up with the continuing arrival of yet another round of shots at our table and the loudness of the music, together with whistle blowers all around, I quietly left after a couple of hours to walk back to the Bar to see Costas.  Went the longer more scenic route via the Old Harbour, with an amazing number of luxury boats moored there.  The hot night had everyone out walking, dining, drinking, buggy riding … near the Bar I met Helen and later she came there – our third night in a row keeping company until leaving together around 0200 – 0300 hours to head home.

The anticipated explosion of numbers on the island for the Pentecost weekend never really happened … a sign that there just is not the money around.  Disappointing for the businesses who rely so much on the holiday weekend numbers, however, nice for me with the beach uncrowded … had my last visit to Agios Mammas yesterday – Monday.  With Costas spending long tiring hours in the Bar, on Saturday we had lunch out at Spetsiotiko, on Sunday it was to Bouboulina, once again for me I was happy to have their Moussaka … it truly is the best I have tasted anywhere. Yesterday we settled for a takeaway burger and pizza.

After avoiding taking out the dreaded suitcase from the storeroom for as long as I was able, finally it had to happen on Monday.  Did as much of my packing as I could before heading to the Bar around 2230 hours.  Ray and Heather, John, Pantelis, Stratos and Sotiris were all there … said my farewells before 0200 hours, then home for what was, thankfully, a better than average night’s sleep for this girl.  Up this morning at 1030 hours … John called by the house with a map to help me locate Triton Hotel in Piraeus.

Around 1230 hours, I said my goodbyes to three of the cats – Bob, Oliver and Sydney, all sleeping in the garden on top of the wall and with my suitcase atop Costas’ bicycle, we walked down to Filippos in the Dapia.  Had an omelette and a coffee … Ray and Heather and also Penny came to say their farewells – “Kiwi” Alex passed by with her son and I met Niki who is originally from Wellington.  With my inevitable departure hour approaching, Costas and I walked down to the jetty to await the Flying Cat 6.  As it approached, I knew we had to say our goodbyes so I said to him, there was no need to wait … a last embrace and he walked off, eventually disappearing out of sight just as I was about to board.  How I hated leaving … the journey to Piraeus seemed like an eternity, eventually disembarking at 1800 hours.  Within 20 minutes I was here in my room at the Triton Hotel … at 39 Euro, excellent value, a more than adequate room, clean and comfortable with free wi-fi, plus things I was not expecting like a refrigerator and a hairdryer.

My plans are to stay in this evening and rest.  Tomorrow I will probably not hurry to leave here before the deadline check out time of noon.  The bus stop for the Airport is very close by and I have checked in online for my 1610 hours flight from Athens to Dubai.  My usual compliments of Emirates hotel room for the 12 hour stopover there, then the following day, the long haul to Auckland via Melbourne.  An Air New Zealand flight to Wanganui should see me arriving back at 1625 hours on Friday.  The weekend to recover, catch up with family and organise myself at home, then back to work on Monday.  If everything goes to plan, I will arrive back in Greece on 25 October, head straight for Spetses and then sometime in November after the Bar has closed for the season, Costas and I hope to visit Crete together, when I will have the opportunity to introduce him to my wonderful family there.  As always, a worthwhile goal to aim for.

John, Costas, Me and Ray in Bar Spetsa

We don’t talk about it, really.  It’s not that I am worried … it’s more that I am unhappy knowing, once again, I must very soon leave this beautiful island and Costas to return to family and work in New Zealand.

I will miss my daily walks to Agios Mammas beach and my dose of sun and sea.  On Sunday I had a bird’s-eye view of the final day of yacht racing and this past week has been a scorcher!  However, the days have been windy … something of a relief actually when one is in the sun, but last weekend was when the wind was really needed for the Regatta.  I will miss my nights out spent with friends in Bar Spetsa … the fun and laughter.  One night this week, two girls (a South African and a Belgian) came in … it was their last night of two weeks holidays in Greece – they said it was the friendliest country they have ever visited and the best little Bar in the world.  They certainly created a very lively atmosphere.  All the people I have met here since my very first visit in May 2010 … some lucky enough to be living here permanently, many others who, like me, come to stay as often as they can.  This week I have enjoyed time spent with Ian from London, Ray and Heather, John, Pavlos, Pantelis and many others.  Friday night Helen arrived from Athens … it was so lovely to see her again and  catch up with each other.

I will miss all the wonderful Greek food, whether prepared at home or eaten out at a seaside Restaurant.  This week Costas was given a bag of Vlita (garden cultivated Horta) which I cooked and it was delicious.  Nevermind the  Tapsi (large baking pan) of Briam (roasted vegetable casserole) that I made and which we were happy to eat for three days.  Costas bought a watermelon … the best I have tasted since the early 1970’s when I lived in Lykavittos, Athens.  There a vendor came around the streets selling them off the back of a truck.  On Thursday night I was invited to a barbecue at Ray and Heather’s … an English couple, Ray and Eileen should have been there, however, that afternoon whilst walking into the cave at Anargyri, Eileen had slipped, broken her collarbone and dislocated her shoulder.  She was instead in hospital in Navplio and Ray and their daughter Michelle were with her.  So, together with myself, Jerry and Marilyn, Ray and Eileen’s other daughter Niki and her husband John from Brisbane and their son Lee with his wife Sandy and their young son Ben, we enjoyed Ray and Heather’s generosity … a delicious meal and as is always to be expected in their home, a variety of alcoholic shots to follow.  When we left, Jerry offered me a lift on his quad bike down to the Bar … I was home by 0315 hours.  That evening there had been a fire on the island … as I left the Bar, the Police and two fire engines passed by.  Costas enquired about the fire and thankfully they said it was out.

This weekend should be a busy one as with all religious holidays in Greece, Pentecost is vigorously celebrated.  It occurs on the seventh Sunday after Easter, or the fiftieth day and commemorates the descent of the Holy Spirit.  Last Saturday night the Bar was packed … I did not really enjoy sitting there watching Costas work so hard and felt somewhat guilty, so tonight I will endeavour to go early, before it gets too busy and come home early if things go to plan – which, of course, they sometimes don’t.  Like on Wednesday when I went to the office to buy my ticket for the hydrofoil next Tuesday.  To avoid leaving Spetses and Costas on the 0610 hours Flying Dolphin on Wednesday morning, with a subsequent lengthy wait at Athens Airport until my 1610 hours flight to Dubai, I made the decision to leave here on the 1820 hours hydrofoil on Tuesday.  With nothing to gain by staying here that last evening … I would need an early night, Costas would be at the Bar from 2000 hours, he would be arriving home just as I was having to get up to leave and at such an uncivilized hour.  Alas, I had left it too late, the 1820 hours boat was already fully booked but fortunately, I did manage to get a seat on the 1355 hours hydrofoil.

So, Tuesday night I will stay at the Triton Hotel in Piraeus … the following morning it will be easy to catch the bus to the Airport from the stop nearby.  I can leave the hotel late morning, thereby avoiding a long wait at the Airport.  Once in Dubai, I have my hotel room compliments of Emirates … it will be a twelve-hour stopover there for me, then the following day, the long haul flight on the 380-800 Airbus to Auckland via Melbourne.  The last leg of my journey with Air New Zealand to Wanganui … arriving at 1625 hours on Friday – that is, if all goes according to plan.  Naturally, as always, I am really looking forward to seeing my family.  Hopefully, I will have the weekend to recover and organise things at home before returning to work on Monday.

Leaving the sun and returning to winter will not be fun.  I will miss the island and my life here but most of all, I will miss Costas.  However, I hope to be back in Greece on 25 October for another two months’ stay, then back to New Zealand just in time to spend Christmas with my family.  Such is my life living in two countries on opposite sides of the world.