Itisallgreek2me

Me at the Beach Party – Agia Marina

Well, the referendum has been and gone with, unfortunately, a resounding win for the “No” voters, however, had it been a “Yes” win, then I am not convinced the situation now would have been any better.  Greece is just hours away from the deadline for new proposals to be submitted by Alexis Tsipras to the creditors.  By sometime on Sunday the Greek people will learn what their future will be … it is almost a foregone conclusion and not a promising look.  The best deal they could have had was back in January but that was turned down by Greece.  People are worried and angry, however, there is nothing they can do but wait and see what will unfold day by day.  I am afraid the future for this country and the Greek people is not a bright one … the years ahead are going to be fraught with difficulties.

For now, my life on Spetses continues unchallenged.  The sun continues to shine … currently it is 2100 hours and still 30 degrees C in our garden.  Both locals and visitors appear to be going about their daily lives as normal.  I continue to make the best of every day as it comes.  On Tuesday I wandered down to Agios Mamas beach at 1030 hours … early for me but I wanted to be home soon after midday so that I could get ready and make my way down to Agia Marina (more commonly known as Paradise Beach) by 1400 hours for the Beach Party, very kindly and generously hosted by Russell and Kerry who leave Spetses tomorrow – Friday.  I had thought to go on my bicycle but alas, no, I have tried it out a couple of times, the seat is uncomfortable for me and too high I feel although Costas says it is as low as it can go.  Furthermore, the bike feels incredibly heavy to me and I am not confident going out in the heat of the day, having to remember to keep right (not left) and dodging all the mad scooter, motorbike and quad riders.  I guess I am still quite happy as a walker and will most likely remain that way.

So, I walked to Paradise Beach … by the time all invitees had arrived, we were 25 people in all.  The two barmen were kept busy pouring drinks and making cocktails.  We enjoyed a delicious sit down buffet lunch, people were in and out of the sea and dancing around the bar to some great music including Chubby Checker’s “The Twist” for those of you old enough to remember way back then.  By 2100 hours, Penny was heading home and kindly agreed to give me a lift on her quad.  I had a much needed long rest until around 0300 hours then made my way down to Bar Spetsa.  It was Chris and George’s last night on the island for this year and I had promised I would go see them that night.  I stayed until closing, then just on day break, together with Costas, we four walked down to the quay to say our farewells … Chris and George, such lovely guys, were leaving on the 0610 hours hydrofoil for Piraeus.  Two Spanakopita (spinach pies) from the bakery on the way home then a sleep in until around midday.

My friend Helen from Athens has been here with her boys for a few days now but we have yet to catch up.  However, we have arranged to meet for coffee tomorrow at 1100 hours … the days pass by so quickly.  My dear friend Vivienne and her husband Dave arrived safely in Athens on Monday evening.  Now I am looking forward to meeting them here on Saturday when they arrive on the 1400 hours hydrofoil from Piraeus for an eight night stay … there will be many memorable moments ahead for us all, of that I am sure.

With Clare and Jane in Bar Spetsa

Odyssey … meaning a long wandering and eventful journey.  I think one can safely give this name to the current crisis in Greece.  Events continue to unfold with no clarity as to what will happen next.  These are very worrying times for the Greek people.  Tomorrow the hastily called referendum will take place in which the people are required to answer a 72 word question with either a No or Yes answer.  Many are unclear as to what they are voting for and many will be deprived of their voting rights as with all the banks closed for a week now, they will not have the funds available to return to their remote village or island to vote which is what they are required to do.

Here on Spetses there is no real sense of anything being other than normal although I believe overall it is much quieter than at this time other years.  Last evening I only went down to the Bar at midnight, however, it was daybreak before we made our way home after having one of the best nights ever in Bar Spetsa.  It was Jane (Costas’ late wife Wendy’s daughter) and her friend Clare’s last night of their holiday before leaving to return to the U.K.  Previously, about a year ago, I had met them both albeit briefly, however, this past week we have gotten to know each other well and their company has been wonderful.  Also holidaying on the island are two friends George from Glasgow (who has a very wicked sense of humour) and Chris from Wigan … Tuesday will be their last night here for this year.  I was also surprised to see Andre and Sally, another English couple I met in the Bar last year, back for their annual island holiday.  Pavlos and George, Spetsiot George, Pandelis, Ernesto … all people I know well then Gerald popped in to show his visiting friend Paul the “hole in the wall” Bar!  Later on in the night, Ray and Heather arrived … we all had such a good time and so many laughs.

Today I have taken things easy, didn’t even venture down to the beach as the weather wasn’t that marvellous with rather a lot of clouds.  Instead I stayed home and made two large pots of Greek Fish Soup, some of which we had for our lunch but most will go into the freezer for easy meals when Costas is busy.  On Wednesday we had lunch at Kaiki Beach with Ray and Heather and Russell and Kerry … Costas rode his bicycle there, however, I walked down.  Although I do have my own bicycle now (I don’t think I have ridden a bike since I was at school) I have yet to take it on a trial run.  The bike came about when one day last week Costas asked me would I like one as he had a bike that Panayiotes wife Carol had been using which she no longer requires so I thought, why not, it will come in handy on occasion, however, I can see myself continuing to walk almost everywhere.  We have been invited to a Beach Party for Russell and Kerry on Tuesday afternoon (their last week here) at Paradise Beach (I will go, Costas will not, all too much on top of the hours he is working) … perhaps I will christen the bike then.

Today (Sunday NZ time) my dear friends Viv and Dave will be departing Auckland … destination Greece!  They are planning a five night stay in Athens before coming to Spetses on Saturday 11 July so I am hoping any potential unrest will not disrupt their stay in the capital.  I am excited and so looking forward to meeting them on the quay in a week’s time.  I am sure their 8 night stay on the island will be memorable … I have yet to meet anyone who has not had an amazing time on our Greek island paradise.  Greece needs the tourists to keep coming and I can see no good reason for why they should stay away.

View of Yacht Racing from near where we swim and sunbathe

During the past week from 18-21 June the annual Spetses Classic Yacht Regatta was held.  Bringing millions of dollars worth of vessels … a record 75 yachts in all (classic boats, schooners and lateens), people and money to the island.  Constantine II, the ex-king of Greece was seen on the island … not that that is so unusual, he and his family are frequent visitors here.  Check out more on www.classicyachtrace.com/en/  Although we could not attend the Welcome Cocktail party at the Poseidonion Grand Hotel (for participants only), Thursday evening my new friend Evdokia and I were able to secure a table on the terrace there for a couple of drinks, before going to Bar Spetsa until late.

Saturday night was Evdokia’s last on the island so we met in the Bar around 2300 hours.  Fortunately, that night Costas had four helpers … just as well as the place was packed, especially between 2300 and 0200 hours.  Costas and I did not arrive home until 0540 hours, via Abari Bar and the bakery, with two Bougatsa (custard filled pastries, hot and fresh) which were devoured before going to bed.

I try most mornings to get myself out of bed early enough to do my 5 kilometer walk before the real heat of the day.  I had just returned to the house on Monday morning when rain accompanied by thunder arrived … it was back again that afternoon.  However, since then the weather has been stunning … cloudless blue skies, not too hot, perfect for the two of us to go down to Agios Mamas beach for a dip and to spend a little time in the sun … wonderful therapy.  My family and friends back in Wanganui, New Zealand have not fared so well this past week.  With the highest rainfall in recorded history and the Whanganui River breaking it’s banks, many homes were flooded … the city is a mess!  To add insult to injury, since then it has been extremely cold with one night a temperature of -20 degrees C being recorded somewhere in the South Island.  Yes, I am blessed and very lucky to be here.

It seems there is no end to the Greek Crisis either … I am not sure what the Government is trying to do, I doubt they know themselves.  Ann Diamond, my Canadian friend who is a writer and like me, lives between her country in Montreal and with her partner on the island of Lemnos, wrote an article on the subject earlier in the week.  I recommend you go to my last Blog “Precious Hot Summer Days and Nights” where there are 2 Comments posted.  Click on Comments and there you will find one from Ann with a link to her article … makes for very interesting and entertaining reading.

It is four weeks tonight since I arrived back on the island.  My main aim is to make the most of each and every day and I believe I am achieving that.

Evdokia, Costas and I – Bar Spetsa

Here in Greece, it is only the first month of summer, however, this past week temperatures have been more akin to the month of August … by day in the low 30’s, only cooling down by a few degrees at night.  I try to leave the house early each morning to walk my 5 kilometers but even so, it can be very, very hot!  One morning last week, a dog decided to accompany me and to my surprise, he came the whole way.

My garden cleanup is complete and I must say, I feel very pleased with myself for what I have achieved.  We will go together one day to buy plants and potting mix … our small pebbled courtyard now needs colour.  On many days we are able to meet up for coffee in the Dapia then in the afternoon, spend time at the beach … our daily dose of sun and saltwater, how blessed we are to be living on this island paradise.  An afternoon siesta – that wonderful Greek institution, completes the day then most evenings I spend time in the Bar with Costas and friends.

Dave and June, together with Paul and Margaret are visiting from the U.K.  On Monday they joined us for lunch at Bouboulina Restaurant, lots of wonderful Greek food, including our favourite Babounakia (small red mullet).  That night in the Bar I met Evdokia, a young Greek Australian woman.  We arranged to meet again last night and went together to Pachni, my favourite restaurant on the island where the salad ingredients are all from their own garden and Costas cooks the most delicious barbecue meats.  They have their own wine too and I understand when that runs out, they close for the season.  Sitting there in the garden, with it’s giant sunflowers, stock, lemon verbena, mint and much more on a balmy summer’s evening, not a movement, quietness and the scents of the flowers – just amazing.

Walked back down to the Bar to keep company yet again with some of the regular suspects … Ray and Heather, Pandelis, Nikos, Roland – ended our evening at Abari Bar with Roland and Evdokia, before stopping off at the bakery on the way home to buy two Spanakopita (spinach pies) for our breakfast.  A somewhat late night/early morning … no wonder I have verged on zombie state today but looking forward to an early night.

Lunch at Ray and Heather’s

Following an early night by Greek standards, this morning I was up at 0700 hours and off on my first 5km walk since arriving 11 days’ ago.  Taking the route of the annual Spetses Mini Marathon 5km Run/Walk, that early in the day, the streets are relatively quiet and the air cool.  On reaching the road heading towards Agia Marina beach, I picked up a fledgling sparrow … alive, however, quite happy to rest in my hand as I continued on towards the Old Harbour and the seafront road.  Only when birdsong could be heard did he make any effort to escape me, I held on to him all the way home where he died soon after and is now resting in our garden.

After closing the Bar last Saturday at 0530 hours, by 0600 hours Costas was on his way to Athens by taxi, returning that afternoon on the 1400 hours hydrofoil.  I took the opportunity to begin what is a massive clean up of the garden, having put in several hours that day, I have been back out there this morning, now beginning to see some reward for my efforts.  Came in around 1200 hours for a shower then off to meet Costas at Roumani in the Dapia for coffee and a read of The Times … not a daily ritual, however, a fairly regular occurence.  Then it was home for lunch … when Costas went for his siesta, for the first time this visit, I headed off to Agios Mammas beach.  For now things are very quiet on the island, all that will change in around one month’s time.  An hour in the sun, then came the moment … could I brave the cold sea or would I be like Costas last week who managed no more than a dipping of his toes!  1, 2, 3 and in … cold, yes, however, amazingly refreshing once I got used to it.

So, today has been a far cry from how I was feeling less than a week ago.  Everything came to a head on Wednesday when Costas called Dr Demetrios who came by the house to see me.  I already knew the root cause of my ill feeling, however, I just needed some reassurance that there was nothing else sinister underlying my problems.  Thursday morning I went for blood tests, picking up the results Friday evening, before Demetrios came visiting once again … all good, apparently I am as healthy as a 20 year old!  Then I know, of course, that a chemical poisoning would not have shown up in the bloods.

Through all of this, my social life has not suffered a great deal.  Wednesday evening I went to the Bar … met John and Norma from Ireland, back home after a couple of drinks.  Thursday afternoon, Ray and Heather had invited me and another seven people for lunch … delicious food, including wonderfully tender and tasty New Zealand lamb.  A great afternoon, after Ray dropped me home, I went into the Bar and stayed until closing.  On Saturday Ray picked me up around 1800 hours and took me to Gerald’s … it had been arranged that the same ten people from Thursday would meet there for drinks before going on to Nektarios for dinner.  Gerald’s home is an absolutely stunning property … he lived for 3 years in the garden cottage whilst the house was being renovated and other than a few small things, all is now completed.  No gold stars for guessing where we all ended up that night … in Bar Spetsa, other than Kevin and Kerry who said their farewells at Nektarios as they were on the 0615 hours hydrofoil the next morning beginning their journey home to England.

Tonight I am staying in, hopeful of another walk, more gardening, lunch out and a spell at the beach tomorrow afternoon if the weather holds out.  Apparently we could get some rain tomorrow then the weather is turning hot, hot, hot!

Heather and I – Abari Bar

Over recent years, the pattern for me has repeatedly been … 4 months New Zealand, 2 months Greece.  On that basis, I should have returned to Greece by mid April, however, I only arrived back here last week on Thursday 28 May.  It will be for a slightly longer period this time (10 weeks and 2 days to be exact) as I am not scheduled to arrive back in New Zealand until Friday 7 August!

It IS wonderful to be back here on the island with Costas, although my journey and these past few days have not been quite how I would have planned them.  On the eve of my departure from Wanganui, I almost lost my voice (as the Voicemail messages I left the following morning on my mobile and landline will testify).  Earlier flight to Auckland now that Air New Zealand are operating a bigger plane in and out of Wanganui, with a reduction in the number of flights.  Fortunately, I had booked a hire car to take me over to the North Shore to see my Doctor … I had a “virus” as a result of a compromised immune system, having picked up yet another chemical.  This time 245 (nasty) so I am in for a session in the decompression chamber on the day that I return.

Once back at Auckland Airport and missing my friend Vivienne who usually comes out to see me off and share a bottle of wine … I decided to have a large (250ml) glass of wine anyway.  It was to be the first and last alcoholic drink of the trip so you will understand, this girl was not feeling her usual good self.

Because my decision to come to Greece was made at rather late notice and travelling during the high season, I had found that the airfares were rather more than I am used to paying.  However, after spending several hours online, I did manage to find two Breaking Deals with Etihad so decided to give them a go.  As they do not operate in and out of New Zealand, I flew Air New Zealand to Melbourne (not impressed with the smaller plane and so pleased that my ticket included “The Works” whereas many passengers had to either buy food or had brought their own).

The 14 hour flight from Melbourne to Abu Dhabi on a Boeing 777, again, not up to the standard of Emirates.  I understand that Etihad has won Best Airline at the Travel Awards for 6 years running … I would have to wonder how.  The comfort, food, service, everything … quite inferior to what I have become accustomed to on Emirates.  When at last we were in the skies over Abu Dhabi, we circled for what seemed an eternity (I was beginning to think the pilot did not know where the airport was), then a long wait on the tarmac for buses to arrive to take us to the terminal.  I had to forget any idea of duty-free shopping, it was a mad rush to Gate 5, making it there by “Last Call”.  THEN, one hour sitting on the tarmac and another half an hour waiting in a cue before takeoff!  At least on this sector to Athens the food and service were better.  All passengers were asked to fill in a mandatory Incoming Passenger Card for the Hellenic Ministry of Health, basically asking if you had visited a country in West Africa (Ebola).  I filled out my card and helped my fellow passenger (an older Albanian lady who spoke Greek but not English) fill out her card only to find in typical Greek fashion, the cards were NOT collected by anyone on arrival in Athens!

Much to my surprise it was seriously raining in Athens and only 17 degrees C.  Getting off the bus at the Port of Piraeus, I headed straight to the nearest kiosk to buy myself the cheapest of umbrellas … the last thing I needed now was to get myself wet through.  Eventually 1830 hours arrived and the Flying Cat 6 hydrofoil departed for Poros, Hydra, Ermioni then SPETSES where Costas was waiting on the quay (with umbrella).  He escorted me home then returned to the Bar, leaving me to unpack and settle in but would you believe, a power cut left me in pitch black darkness, fossicking around to find candles.

It is now early afternoon Tuesday and finally, I believe I may have reached a turning point with this god damned virus.  Apart from a coffee out one day with Costas and a full English breakfast “lunch” on Sunday with Costas at Klimis Hotel, Saturday night was the only other time I have left the house.  Met up with Ray and Heather and other friends at Abari for dinner where there was live Greek music, then naturally moved on to Bar Spetsa, coming home with Costas at 0500 hours (this morning it was 0600 hours before he arrived home).

As I said, I hope I am over the worst with the virus.  The beach is beckoning, walks are beckoning and people are asking in the Bar “Where is Helen”?

Agios Dimitrios Church – Spetses

Saturday, 29 November 2014 – just up from my afternoon siesta, a lovely institution in Greece, especially in summertime when everyone retires during the hottest hours of the day.  Costas has lit the fire, just as he has been doing for a week now.  The days and nights are cooler, although I would not say cold.  This week some light rain (not enough to cause problems with our leaking house roof), very little sun, calm … rather bleak and damp – the reality of living on a Greek island.  The fire serves to keep our home dry as much as it does to keep us warm.

My first task each morning is to pick oranges off our tree, enough to make two large glasses of freshly squeezed juice … to quote Costas “Mana from heaven”.  At 1230 hours, the newspapers arrive at the news agents (unless the hydrofoils are on strike or they have forgotten to throw the bundle off on to the jetty).  Unfortunately, Costas preferred publication The Guardian is no longer available, however, he buys The Times daily and often my first glimpses of it are over coffee in the Dapia … such civilized living.  Up until the weather changed, we were enjoying lovely afternoon walks of around two hours in duration.  One day to Kouzinos Beach, another to Garyfolos Bay and the small seaside church of Agios Dimitrios, another day up into the hills as far as Gorgoepikou Monastery.  Stinging Nettle grows prolifically on the island … that day I saw, growing under pine trees, a huge area of Stinging Nettle, lush and green, with the biggest leaves imagineable.  We pulled a handful of Throubi plants too to pot up in our garden.  Throubi, or Winter Savory, is a herb similar to oregano and thyme and is indigenous to the island.  The honey produced locally from the wild Throubi is wonderful.  I especially like a big dollop of it on my Greek yogurt.  Occasionally when we are given fresh eggs by a local who have their own chickens … I love to make them into an omelet.  We had been waiting for Olive Oil to be delivered.  It arrived yesterday … new season’s, green, thick, cloudy.  A huge can of it for 60 Euro.  Unfortunately, I cannot take either Throubi, honey, eggs or this particular olive oil back to New Zealand.

In the main, our evenings have been spent quietly at home.  Scrabble is once again our preferred past time … last night we played two games, I won both of them.  The night before three games – a win each and a draw.  With my level of skill now greatly improved, we are very evenly matched.  Friday night a week ago, we did meet Roger and Denise for dinner at Argyros Restaurant in The Square then we two went on to Balkoni for a couple of quiet drinks.  Of course, Wednesday night was Pool night at Point of View.  John and Costas were the only two players to turn up … I sat and watched them play then we left for home, via Balkoni, of course!

Last week finally saw the guys coming to clear our garden for the winter.  All the trees, excluding the orange and the lemon, have been thrashed … now the light and sun will be able to enter the house over the winter.  One of our greatest joys are our cats … Oliver, Bob, Sydney and Larissa.  All rescued from the streets around six years’ ago, there is no doubt that they all had a tough start in life, especially our little girl Larissa who has always been so timid.  However, each visit I have seen her slowly but surely making progress until now, where she comes voluntarily up on to our bed, enjoys our company and for the first time last night, I heard her purr.

Tonight we are returning to Akroyialia Restaurant for dinner … just the two of us.  We will leave Spetses late morning next Thursday on the Flying Dolphin to Piraeus for a two night stay in Athens.  Sadly, on Saturday, we will say our fare wells, Costas will return to the island and once again I will begin the long journey back to New Zealand.  As always, I am looking forward to seeing family and friends.  Hopefully the summer weather will have arrived, Christmas will not be too far away and of course, I must work, with a goal and a dream to be back here again … sooner rather than later.

With Ray and Heather in Balkoni bar – Sunday night

Never have my followers had to wait so long to read my next Blog … the past two weeks were supposed to be quieter and more relaxed, however, in the main, those anticipated peaceful days did not eventuate.  This morning Ray and Heather left the island to commence their journey back to Aberdeen for the Winter, so perhaps now, we will find it easier to spend more quiet days and nights together.

Last Monday evening we were in Point of View with a group of friends to farewell the Scots.  Coming home around midnight meant it was not a late night by Greek standards but, of course, any night out here always involves a lot of drinking.  The day before Penny had invited us to lunch at their home – eight of us … Penny, Anna, Ray, Heather, Graham, Judy, Costas and I.  It was my first visit to their house on the hill … we took a taxi up there and with the occasional heavy rains that we have had, it was a struggle for the poor driver to navigate the so-called road.  The location and views, even on an overcast day, are amazing … the house even more amazing – Wow!  Started with a delicious French Onion Soup, Snails, then a main course of Steak and Kidney Stew with pastry triangles, mashed potatoes, beans, broccoli and a red cabbage pickle.  Finished our meal with a dessert made from meringue, lemon curd and I am not sure what else … it was exceptional!  Early evening, with the aid of a small torch loaned by Penny to show us the way, we started off down the road.  It was not long before we met our taxi coming up the hill, asking our driver to take us to Balkoni bar where we met up with Ray and Heather, staying there for quite a few more hours and having a lot of fun.

The previous Sunday, Costas and I had popped down to Balkoni for a couple of hours.  We were sitting at the bar when Costas asked me to change stools and sit on the other side of him.  At the time, I had no idea why, until, I looked up and out the window.  There was a full moon lighting up the sea … a view I will be reminded of every full moon, wherever I may be … simply stunning!  I did try to capture it in a photograph, however, on auto the sea did not show and on night view, I could not keep the camera steady enough – pity.

The previous Friday evening, we had met Ray and Heather at Mosquito for pre-dinner drinks, from where we made the short walk to Akrogialia Restaurant in Kounoupitsa.  Anyone dining at this establishment in the summer can enjoy a very “Shirley Valentine” setting with tables on the beach, however, at this time of the year they only open Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays and dining is inside.  We shared six plates of wonderful food, accompanied by two bottles of a Greek wine called “Four Lakes”.  The food, wine, service, atmosphere and music were all about as good as it can get … thoroughly enjoyable!  Finished up back at Balkoni from where for us  it is only a short walk home.  For anyone interested, check out the website www.akrogialia-restaurant.gr where you will be able to view 360 degree panoramic views of the restaurant and location.

Wednesday nights, of course, are Pool nights for the boys at Point of View.  We did go down last Wednesday and I had an enjoyable time in the company of Heather and Marilyn until around 0100 hours when the rains came down and we decided it was probably sensible to hot foot it home.  Costas may go down tonight to play Pool, however, my mind is already made up … I will be more than happy to stay at home.  Earlier today we met at the Dapia for coffee, came home and made two large pots of Vegetable Soup, a little of which we have just had for lunch.  Very tasty but hot … Costas does like his chilli!  Beach days are over for now although I am sure one could venture down to the sea and enjoy a pleasant swim today but I have packed away the bikini.  The forecast high for Spetses is 23 degrees C which is exceptional for this time of year.  It would be a mistake not to go out and enjoy the sunshine and so soon we will just go for a walk.

Time spent at home with the four cats will increase from now on.  The cats have all had recent trips to the Vet with Sydney having had teeth removed so I have been nurturing him, he is putting weight back on and is almost back to his old self.  We have started playing Scrabble once again and although I have still to beat Costas, his wins and my losing have only been like one move apart so I am confident that it is only a matter of time and I will win the odd game.  Movies too are great for passing the time.  The two that we really enjoyed last week were “The Commitments” and “Zorba the Greek”.  It is 50 years since the latter was made and so much of the old Crete has vanished since then.

My friend Bev and her party who were here recently, gifted me a ceramic plate which now has pride of place in our wee house.  I like it very much and it is nice to have something that belongs to me permanently here.  Sadly, I have just over two weeks to go until I again commence my journey back to New Zealand.

The Two of Us behind the bar on Closing Night

There has been very little time for relaxing over the past 10 days … so much has happened here on the island.  Sadly, yesterday morning I fare welled Bev and Jacquie on the 1135 hours Flying Dolphin.  They have two nights in Athens before commencing their long journey back to New Zealand on Saturday, however, I am sure with absolutely no regrets.  They have had such a wonderful holiday and we will miss them.  Late yesterday afternoon, Costas left to go and watch the UEFA Europa League football game between Asteras Tripolis and Tottenham Hotspur at Tripoli on the Peloponneses mainland.  His beloved Tottenham won 2-1 so he is very happy.

Wednesday was my birthday.  With the weather nice and mild for this time of year, Bev and I met early at 0800 hours for a lengthy 3 and a half hour walk up into the hills … wonderful!  First we made our way up to the Monastery of Agia Pantes (All Saints) where we visited Costas’ mum’s grave.  A little further along the road at an allotment we saw the two delightful black and white dogs that had accompanied Costas and I on a walk last year.  This time they were tied up, however, it was not long before one of them joined Bev and I.  Higher up the hill is the Gorgoepikou Monastery with its beautiful church … there a nun was occupied watering their garden.  Higher still you come to a smaller abandoned church with great cracks in its walls … the path to this one proved challenging as I had not remembered exactly the way there and at one point we found ourselves down on our hands and knees in order to get by a very prickly bush with quite a precipice on the other side.  A short walk further on brings you to “H XAPA” – The Joy – the name of a long since abandoned property on the ridge.  Since the very first time I passed by it, I have dreamt of how it could be if I had the means to purchase and renovate, however, in reality, it is probably too far gone.  From “H XAPA” we walked along the ridge to return back via a different route where we saw people harvesting olives.  Checked out the small pink church and spoke with a gentleman tending to his rabbits at a little old property I have also always loved.  He now has a gaggle of geese there … with their hissing, I believe, they could be more useful than a guard dog.

That evening at 1900 hours we met up with Bev and Jacquie for a very pleasant walk down towards the Old Harbour.  Shortly after arriving at Nektarios there was an unexpected shower but not enough to dampen anyone’s spirits.  At 1930 hours, out the back of the Restaurant by the waterside, Ray and Heather had organized our annual fireworks display … nothing short of amazing!  Once back inside, 25 of us in total, sat down for a fantastic meal and, of course, it was my birthday.  When Nektarios lowered the lights and brought out my cake, they all sang Happy Birthday and wished me “Kronia Polla” – many years.  Music, dancing and drinking continued until eventually we all left on scooters/motorbikes/quads, with a large number of us meeting up at Point of View for a few more drinks.  I have now celebrated my birthday on Spetses for four years in a row and never disappointed … it was so lovely to have Bev and Jacquie here as well.

Bev and Jacquie had arrived back on Spetses last Friday, just in time for the Closing Night for the season Party in Bar Spetsa.  I began the day meeting up with Bev at the Poseidonion Grand Hotel where participants in The Tweed Run were coming together for a weekend of fun.  Established in London in 2009, this event has since been staged in Tokyo, New York, Toronto and now over the weekend of 1 and 2 November 2014, Antonis at the Poseidonion had brought it to Spetses.  The day began with Grooming, a Bike Check and Tweed Chat until around 1330 hours when the cyclists set off for Anargyrios and Korgialenios School for a treasure hunt, from there they cycled to Orloff Restaurant for Tsiporo and Ouzo, then down to the Old Harbour for a picnic near the lighthouse.  That evening their party continued and later on, many of the Tweed Runners came in to our party at the Bar.  The vintage bikes were wonderful and the cyclists looked resplendent in their tweed and vintage attire.

Ray and Heather dressed up their bikes for The Tweed Run, with Ray in full Highland dress which he continued to wear that night in Bar Spetsa, the party this year having a Scottish theme … the Bar decorated with many Scottish flags and the Royal Banner of Scotland, tartan bow ties and headwear for us all to put on and of course, the usual helium balloons.  It happened to be Roland’s birthday that night too, so Costas had bought a box of cakes to pass around.  As the night went on, the usual suspects could be seen sucking helium out of the balloons then singing in their high-pitched voices … sounding more like Donald Duck or the Chipmunks rather than themselves.  Sometime after 0500 hours we made our weary way home.

Over the past few days, many of our friends have left the island for now and it is unbelievably quiet and peaceful.  With the Bar closed, Costas has time for the occasional game of Backgammon or Billiards with friends and soon we will have the Scrabble board out … quiet nights at home by the fire with our four cats.  One by one, most of the shops, restaurants and bars are closing for the winter and we are limited in our choice of places to go.  However, walks together are beckoning and I should think we will begin any day now to make these a part of our daily routine.  I am half way through my stay but the next four weeks will be spent in quality time together.

Hayley, Greg, Ben, Bev, Jacquie, Jan, Me and Costas in Bar Spetsa on Bev’s 60th Birthday

It was back in Wanganui earlier in the year that I became my friend Beverley’s “Travel Broker”, assisting Bev with travel plans for her forthcoming trip to Greece with her cousin Jacquie from Putaruru.  Leaving New Zealand on 11 October, they flew first to Paris, then on to Athens for a 3 night stay, followed by 2 nights at Meteora, one night each in Delphi, Nafpaktos and Nafplio, eventually arriving here on the island last Wednesday.  A shortage of light clothing meant they felt the heat in Athens hard work, however, travelling around using public transport, they had been overwhelmed by the extraordinary beauty of the Greek landscape … saddened though by the plight of homeless dogs and stray cats.

That morning as I left on my 5km walk, I first called in at Villa Marina where they would stay, to let Filippos know I would be meeting Bev and Jacquie when they arrived on the 1345 hours Katerina Star ferry from Kosta.  Also arriving that afternoon at 1305 hours on the hydrofoil from Piraeus would be Beverley’s son Ben and his girlfriend Hayley who live in London and Ben’s step mum Jan from Napier … Filippos would be there to meet them.  Ben’s friend Greg who also lives in London would be on a later hydrofoil … all Kiwis other than Hayley who hails from Sydney.  Weather wise, Spetses had turned on a near perfect day with blue skies and sunshine … unfortunately, I did not manage to organize a Mayoral welcome and brass band as requested, only Costas and I.  Filippos was there to take their luggage, we walked the short distance to Villa Marina, sat on the balcony for a while before making a unanimous decision that this was the day to head down to Agios Mammas beach for a swim in the sea.  Unfortunately, the forecast for the following days was not looking that wonderful and I was sure this would be their best opportunity for a swim.

At 2000 hours we all met in Bar Spetsa for pre dinner drinks … both the Bar and the beach being a mere 30 meters from Villa Marina, a perfect choice of accommodation which they found to be very comfortable and with everyone but Greg occupying the three rooms on the top floor with their own large balcony offering sea views.  Other than Bev, I had met Jacquie on one occasion only, the others for the first time that day, however, very quickly I realized what lovely, genuine people they all were and what is more, they all do fun!  They were quick to name me their “Tour Guardian”!

On that first evening I had chosen for us to eat at Nektarios.  A pleasant stroll along the seafront towards the Old Harbour took us there … I ordered one kilo of white wine, half a kilo of red and lots of small plates of delicious food to share.  The bill, including a tip was just 12 Euro each (approximately NZ$20) – very reasonable I thought and everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meal.  From Nektarios it was back to Bar Spetsa for a few more drinks … it came as no surprise to me that my visitors were having the time of their lives, Bev already understanding why I love so much my life here.  What did surprise her though was how small the bar is.  Not that this was an issue at all … the hospitality, atmosphere and music just blew them all away!

The next day was Bev’s 60th birthday … Jacquie had turned 65 earlier in the year and so the two of them had decided to celebrate by making the trip together to Europe.  The forecasted cooler weather had arrived but that did not stop us going out for a lengthy walk, first through the town and passed our house, on to the Square and into the bakery for delicious pastries, by the Sotirios Anargyros Mansion, Bouboulina Museum, the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, through the Dapia area (at Roumani, they all met the lovely Alex, a fellow Kiwi living on Spetses with her Greek husband and son Dimitris), down to the Old Harbour and out for a close up look at the sculptures of Natalia Mela.  By the time we returned I would guess we had strolled some 5 kilometers so it was home for a siesta before getting ready to meet everyone once again that evening back in Bar Spetsa, eventually heading up the hill to Paxni, my favourite restaurant on the island.  Costas had booked a table for 7 at 2130 hours, he had also arranged for a birthday cake for Bev to be delivered there.  Our hosts Costas and Niki have an amazing garden and their salads are to die for as are the meats cooked on the barbecue by Costas … two large platters of chicken, lamb and pork.  When Bev’s birthday cake was bought out, it was a total surprise and her face told the story as we all sang Happy Birthday, she blew out the one candle and we enjoyed a slice each – very, very yummy!  Feeling quite replete, we walked back down to Bar Spetsa for more drinks and good times … a great ending to another wonderful day.

On Friday came not only the rain but also thunderstorms and I never left the house all day until it was time once again to meet my friends in Bar Spetsa around 2000 hours.  Bev had discovered that Costas could make a very good Long Island Iced Tea Cocktail (tequila, vodka, white rum, triple sec, gin, lemon juice and cola, on the rocks, poured over ice) and for Jan it was Margarita’s.  When everyone was ready we walked to the Square for our evening meal … the island is very quiet and peaceful right now and we were the only people dining at the establishment.  With one portion of beetroot salad and two portions of horta to share, six out of the seven of us decided to order the Bakaliaros skordalia (deep-fried cod with garlic dip) and no one regretted their choice.  Then, it will come as no surprise at all that we returned to Bar Spetsa … well, most of us anyway and by closing time, Bev, Jacquie, our friend Roland, Costas and I ended up in Abari Bar from where first Bev, then Jacquie were given a ride home by Roland on his motor scooter.

With quite some improvement in the weather on Saturday, we all decided to catch the 1020 hours hydrofoil to Hydra, believing it to be a good idea that they get to see something of another island while they were here … after all, every Greek island is different (over 3,000 islands and approximately 200 inhabited).  When a shower came along just as we were passing Kodylenia’s Taverna in Kaminia, it seemed an opportune time to go inside and see what was on offer for lunch.  Excellent decision as there was an array of very tempting dishes on display.  We each ordered one dish and passed the plates around the table, sharing yet another wonderful meal.  A stroll back to the main town where we checked out the shops before catching the 1455 hours Flying Dolphin back to Spetses.  As with every other day, there was then free time for a siesta, a swim, or whatever each individual wished to do before meeting up for our last night all together in the Bar.  Having had a substantial meal already that day, everyone was happy to go for Souvlakia, Salad and Chips and yes, you guessed right, back to Bar Spetsa … I mean to say, it was the Antipodeans last night on the island and everyone was out to have a great time.  Ben, Hayley and Greg took themselves off to the Old Harbour, enjoying time at La Luz and Booze, two clubs for the young at heart.  Daylight saving ended and so putting the clocks back, seemingly we gained an extra hour.  When Costas closed, he took a ride with Roland and I with Pandelis … the four of us spending time in Abari Bar until a very, very late hour.

Sunday morning and sadly it was time for our friends to leave, meeting first in the Dapia where the travelers had breakfast and we had a coffee.  Costas left first to begin his daily chores and when the time came to pay the bill, they discovered that Costas had generously paid it for them.  I stayed on to farewell them all … Ben and Hayley bound for London, Jan for New Zealand and Bev and Jacquie for an overnight stay in Piraeus before catching the ferry to Santorini early in the morning for a two night stay.  They will also visit the island of Naxos for two nights, then back to Piraeus, returning to Spetses on Friday to share more good times.  Greg was to leave later in the day, staying two nights in Athens before catching the overnight ferry to Crete where he will visit Rethymno and Iraklion before he returns to London.

So, there are more days to look forward to later in the week when Beverley and Jacquie return.  Next Saturday will be the closing night for the season in Bar Spetsa and after eight months without a single night off, I know that Costas is looking forward to a break and we will have more quality time together for the remainder of my stay.  Wednesday 5 November and I will be celebrating my birthday in much the same way as I have done the past three years on Spetses.  Ray and Heather will put on the usual fireworks display and with a group of friends we will all enjoy dinner at Nektarios and who knows where to from there.  Bev and Jacquie will still be with us as they do not leave until the 6th to spend their last two nights in Greece in Athens before flying home to New Zealand.

In summary, it has been an incredibly enjoyable few days and I have so enjoyed looking after my friends visiting us on Spetses.  I know there are others of you out there who also hope to visit sometime in the future so bring it on!  The suggestion did come up that I should consider bringing small groups to Greece and act as their “Tour Guardian”.  Maybe I will one day … I have thought about doing it in the past and surely it could not be any harder than selling Real Estate.  None of us know what the future holds and I think, just as well.