Itisallgreek2me

Interestingly, my last Blog titled “Athens Overnight” has somehow made it on to the website forum jethrotull.proboards.com which is kind of cool!

So I am back on Syros, doing my best to get to know this island. Yesterday was Orthodox Whit Monday and a public holiday in Greece. I decided, among other things, to go and see a couple of Ermopouli landmarks. The magnificent Apollon Theater, built to the design of the Italian architect Pietro Sampò and opened on 20 April 1864, these days it hosts various cultural events. The impressive Town Hall on Miaouli Square, designed by Ernst Ziller, building began in 1876, however, wasn’t completed until 1898.

In the evening I took a walk to the top of Vrodados hill to see the Orthodox Church of the Resurrection, which is at the same height as the Catholic Church of St. George on the neighboring hill of Ano Syros. I stayed up there until just on dusk watching a ferry boat arriving, before making my way back down the myriad of steps to the town. Many of the footpaths and stairs are made from marble. There are cats galore… some obviously loved and cared for, sadly others not so fortunate. Houses much the same… those being lived in are often nextdoor to derelict properties.

Today I caught the bus to Poseidonia… a fascinating settlement with many neo classical mansions, once the summer residences of aristocrats, reflecting the glamour of a bygone era.

On arrival in Poseidonia, I was pleased to see a sign advertising the way to Melidron Cafe Taverna… just 30m down the road. According to TripAdvisor this place was worth checking out and they were not wrong. Unique, colorful atmosphere, funky, great service, coffee and food. I had planned to return there later in the day, however, somehow I ended up in Finikas so decided to have lunch at Calmo Mare, overlooking the beach and conveniently located near a bus stop for my return to Ermopouli late afternoon.

According to my mobile, I walked 6.74km today… not too bad considering the heat and the media are saying Greece is in for a heatwave!

My eagerly awaited trip to Athens to see Jethro Tull play at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus on their 50th Anniversary Tour had finally arrived. Perfect occasion I thought to christen the dress I bought 3 years ago… snapped myself in the mirror before setting off.

What a pleasant experience it was to travel on the ferry unencumbered by luggage. As we docked in Piraeus on time at 7.45pm, I made a quick change of plan to take a taxi to the Theatre rather than the Metro… E20 as opposed to E1.40 and a walk from Monasteraki around the Acropolis, however, more or less stress free. You see, Antonis my driver expressed concern for my safety alone in Athens at night. He gave me his card and said I could call him anytime up until 2.30am and he would pick me up from wherever and take me back to Piraeus for free. His intentions may well have been sound but I did wonder what he thought we would do until my ferry at 7.15am. Needless to say I passed up on the offer but the taxi ride to the Theatre did enable me to procure a much better seat as it was General Admission in the upper section I had booked. 30 minutes from arriving in Piraeus I was seated at the Herodion as Greeks like to call it and waiting.

As most of you will know, Jethro Tull or more to the point, Ian Anderson is my favourite artist of all time. He can certainly play the flute and acoustic guitar as well as he has ever done and his antics on stage are admirable for a man of his years. However, as a vocalist he is struggling now and I knew that would be the case but personally it doesn’t really bother me. Musically I preferred the Auckland concert 2 years ago… the repertoire in Athens was more geared to celebrating the 50 years and we didn’t get to hear many of their more well known songs. But what they did play included Heavy Horses, Aqualung, Too Old to Rock and Roll Too Young to Die and as in Auckland, Locomotive Breath as an encore. But the atmosphere and light show at the Herodion was spectacular! So pleased that I went, would not have wanted to miss out on such a wonderful opportunity.

The next question on my mind was what to do in Athens by night with 8 hours to kill. Left the venue and strolled with the crowd, past the Acropolis Museum all alight and with the Moon and Jupiter up above. Sat in the Plaka to drink a couple of ouzo until that establishment closed around 2.15am then walked to Monasteraki, intending to find a Bar in the Psyri/Gazi neighborhood where I could pass some more time. I will be honest and say that I did feel vulnerable out on the street alone but then as I was videotaping some African musos in Monasteraki Square, a group of young people, who also got filmed in the video, invited me to join them to go to a Bar called “Boiler” so I went along. As one reviewer describes it “the place for dancing, drinking and meeting the party people of Athens… the hip tourists, the queers, the punks, the ravers, everyone with an open heart and mind”.

In the group there were 3 guys, including Jack from Cape Cod… a real character whose generosity knew no bounds and 3 girls aged around 22 from Montreal. In particular, Kylee a ceramic artist and I seemed to click and as she expressed an interest in perhaps one day trying her hand at glasswork, I suggested she may like to come to Whanganui for that and potentially could board with me.

It was such a fun filled night but some time after 5.00am as I made my way to the Metro station and on to Piraeus and my ferry, I realized how completely exhausted I felt. Asking myself why I had been crazy enough to think I could stay up all night out on the town without a price to pay? Was it worth it for the memories? Yes, without a doubt!

OMG… is it me and the effects of getting older or, is it climate change? I’m leaning towards the latter. The heat in Greece used to be different… the sun was never so burning, fiery and exhausting. I think yesterday I may even have had a touch of heat stroke. The thermometer rose to somewhere around 32-33°C and it was a killer!

Thursday was my last chance to spend time at the beach in Kini. I understand schools closed yesterday for the holidays and it would seem that on Thursday, all teachers decided to shout their students a day by the sea. No available sunbeds and a lot of noise… I ended up at the southern end with my towel on the sand… Grrr!

Now I’m in Hermoupolis. I came over on the bus yesterday morning, walked in the scorching heat from the station to Konstantza Studios and Apartments where thankfully my room was ready for me. Konstantza is located in a quiet residential area, an easy 10 minute stroll from the center of the city. I unpacked before setting off once again in the heat to eat, visit an ATM, pickup ferry tickets and provisions. By the time I made it back to my room, that was me done for the day!

It is now midday Saturday, I am back in my room having walked 5km this morning, including to the top of the Ano Syros hill. A Venetian settlement built around 1200 AD and designed amphitheatrically to protect it from the enemies, at the top sits the Catholic Cathedral of St. George. Ano Syros is also the birthplace of the famous rembetiko (Greek blues) composer, singer and bouzouki master Markos Vamvakaris.

Perhaps because it is Saturday, I’m not sure, however, the few businesses that are located in Ano Syros were all closed this morning so I had to wait until I was back down by the sea for my morning coffee and a toasted sandwich. Then picked up a couple of yummy pastries to take with me on my journey later today. Also from To Kastri, a container of “fasolakia ladera” (green beans and potatoes in a delicious tomato sauce)… a meal to have before I go.

So, Athens here I come… departing Syros at 1600 hours on the Blue Star Paros. Tonight I will be at the Odeon of Herodes Atticus for the Jethro Tull 50th Anniversary concert!!!

Bring it on!!!

As I spend leisurely days on the beach, there is not a lot to report from my neck of the woods. On Sunday I did escape the family crowds and made the Monopati walk to and back from Delfini beach… it truly is one of the most scenic coastlines I have ever seen. The southern end of the beach is a recognized nudist beach. Okay if that is your thing but I have to say, it does nothing for me.

Something I have become aware of during these travels that has changed from my previous experiences. In years past, travelling alone meant you would never be on your own for long. Someone would speak to you and possibly even invite you to join them at their table. Now this is a rare occurrence… even when I start a conversation, people generally are not too interested in continuing to talk. I actually think mobile phones could have a lot to do with this… people everywhere are busy surfing the Internet or whatever and often, even among themselves, are communicating very little.

On Friday when I move on to Hermoupolis I expect the pace of life to step up somewhat. First there will be my trip to Athens at the weekend to attend the Jethro Tull concert. During my 2 week stay in the capital, I am also hoping to make a couple of day trips to the nearby islands of Tinos and Paros and I have a great deal of research to do for next year’s proposed trip to Syros with a group of ladies… accommodation, places to go, etc.

Tomorrow, one more day at the beach then farewell Kini for now but I will be leaving with happy memories. My hosts Helen and Petros at Morpheus Rooms-Studios have been fantastic and I would certainly recommend their place to anyone looking for somewhere quiet to stay. Tonight as I was finishing the last of my ouzo, Petros arrived with a small bottle of ouzo, plus ice, homemade cheese, olives and crackers… such nice people.

The charming village of Kini on Syros boasts several restaurants directly next to the beach and on Saturday evening I visited the one whose name translates to “2 Cicadas on the Tamarisk Trees”. I had their take on Bakaliaros me Skordalia… Salted Cod with Garlic Sauce – delicious!

Sunday I woke, procrastinating over what to do on a cloudy day, eventually setting off at 10.30am to walk to Galissas and return. Clocked up 10.85km on what turned into a sunny day. Going there I took the route via Lotos Beach and the Monopati, or ancient shepherds’ trail, of which there are many in Greece. Simply stunning views over mountains and sea, the colours of which inspired my choice of tiles in my new bathroom back home. Ate lunch at Savvas in Galissas… Macaroni me Kimas or as we know it – Spaghetti Bolognese. First class… the sauce was just as I would make it at home. I walked back to Kini via a middle road, there was something telling me not to push my luck too far by returning via a path where another fall could be disastrous.

Yesterday I walked a paltry 7.86km. Caught the 9.50am bus for the 20 minute ride (direct route) to the capital of the island Hermoupolis… also the capital of the Cyclades group. On the 14th of June I will be moving over there for a 2 week stay, however, in the meantime I just wanted to familiarize myself a little and pick up some much needed Euro from an ATM.

Enjoyed a coffee at Kouchico Cafe Bar and lunch at To Kastri… a co-operative of local women who cook authentic Greek dishes, using local ingredients and recipes handed down from their grandmothers. I had a large plate of delicious chicken soup which only cost E3.80 and a beer for E1.40, not much more than I pay in the supermarket. Conveniently, To Kastri post a daily menu on their Facebook Page! Picked up pastries from Ntanos Bakery to bring back to Kini. Already I know where I will be drinking coffee, eating and buying pastries again… these 3 businesses I read about online before leaving home.

Made a start on learning my way around… visiting Miaouli Square in the centre, the Church of St. Nikolas and the prestigious quarter of Vaporia. Even managed to check the whereabouts of Konstantza Studios and Apartments where I will be staying and the way to walk there when I arrive which doesn’t entail climbing stairs.

Returned to Kini on the 4.30pm bus… this time a 1 hour circuit of the island, very interesting. Walking back to my room, Roger and Kate, a lovely couple I met earlier in the day from Tasmania, spotted me and invited me in for a couple of wines… how could I say no!

Yesterday I designated to be a day of rest… in other words, no long crazy walks in the heat. Stayed put and relaxed on my balcony… dozed and sadly got myself a little burnt. Interestingly, I do believe the sun here in Greece is now stronger than it ever used to be. In the evening, after preloading with an ouzo, I returned to the restaurant “2 Cicadas on the Tamarisk Trees” for another ouzo and my favourite meal in Greece… Barbounakia (little Red Mullet) with Patates Tiganites (French fries). At E60 per kilo Barbounakia are a treat… my 4 costing just shy of E20 or NZ$32.

Today I went out, unsure of just what I would do or where I would go. Not wanting to expose the burnt areas of my body to sun, I decided to walk to Moni Agia Varvaras, a Monastery on the way to Hermoupolis. Passed by the statue and fountain Panagia Gorgona here by the seaside and made my way up via the road. On reaching the Monastery, I then decided to carry on to the village of Alithini, from where the view of Ano Syros and Hermoupolis is stunning! Discovering the start of a Monopati, naturally I chose to return to Kini via that route, passing by a marble quarry and nearer Kini, more sterna… wells in a state of disrepair, unused once people had access to mains water.

Another 6.59km on the body clock… very satisfying!

The main reason I allocated a 2 week stay in Kini was to rest and relax after 10 days in the metropolis of Athens. Wishing to soak up the sun and sea with a sprinkling of walks thrown in for good measure… obviously feeling the need to maintain my level of fitness. The temperature too is beginning to creep up and for the first time last night, I needed the Aircon on to enable sleeping.

A walk of about 50m along the alleyway from my room takes me to the beach and Aeriko Tsipouradiko. Traditionally, tsipouradika were small tavernas serving tsipouro (in Crete known as tsikoudia) a distilled spirit having 40-45% alcohol by volume and produced from the residue of the wine press. Tsipouro is usually served with meze and although Aeriko caters for those wishing to enjoy their shots with meze, they also serve some cafe type meals and other Greek dishes.

For the past 3 days I have been eating midday at Aeriko. One day a delicious omelet with a double Greek coffee. Today Horta… more specifically Vlita – amaranthus viridis, which in summer grows wild in gardens all over Greece. It is boiled then dressed with extra virgin olive oil, fresh lemon juice and salt. I had this with Patatas Tiganites (French fries) which are always cooked in olive oil here, fresh crusty bread and an Amstel beer. By the way, Horta can also be wild greens indigenous to Greece… in any case, I love them all!

Spending a minimum of E5 per person at Aeriko entitles you to the use of one of their very comfortable sunbeds, with umbrella, if you so wish, for the entire day. You can either eat at a table as I do then move down onto the beach or they will serve drinks and snacks at your sunbed…it’s not a bad life!

Today I discovered another Monopati which goes from Kini to Delfini beach. I walked about halfway around the coastline… the views stunning and breathtakingly beautiful!Although I have already been to Delfini walking via the road, I think I will go there again tomorrow via the path and spend some time on that beach.

In Greece, it is customary on the 1st day of the month to wish everyone “Kalo Mina” – Good Month and today is the 1st of June. What a lovely gesture this is.

Yesterday I was up before dawn… out on the street by 6.15am to flag down a taxi to take me to the port of Piraeus. Just as well I had decided on this more expensive mode of transport as my driver informed me that the Metro workers were on strike… I didn’t know. As with all the ferries I will take, I pre-booked online and paid weeks ago so it was simply a matter of collecting my ticket from the Blue Star Ferries booth and boarding the “Blue Star Paros”.

On arrival in Syros I could not find where to catch a bus. I spoke with a Greek who, as it turned out, was also hoping to get a bus to Kini. He had been told there was one 2 hours later which led me to suggest that we share a taxi ride and pay half each. So that is what happened… it only cost me 5 Euro and in no time, we were here.

I located Morpheus Rooms-Studios up an alleyway and only about 50m from the beach. Helen showed me to my room on the 1st floor… small but very clean and comfortable with kitchenette and a balcony. As I plan to incorporate a little self-catering over the next couple of weeks to conserve funds, I went out to buy a few basic provisions. I hadn’t given thought to the fact that there might not be an ATM in Kini and there isn’t! I’m okay money wise for a day or two, however, I will need to make a trip to Hermoupolis sometime next week. There is a Mini Market here, souvenir shop and kiosk… other than those, just a few restaurants and cafes.

Last night’s sunset must have been something special as even the locals were out taking photos… it was certainly spectacular! Later in the evening, from my room I could hear music and laughter but from around midnight it was blissfully quiet. I awoke to a blue sky, sunshiny day so decided to walk to Delfini Beach… a 4km round trip over the hills to the next bay. Walking is the only way that you are able to notice the small delights, such as lizards scurrying to hide. It is still very early in the season here. When I arrived at Delfini Beach there was no one else to be seen and by the time I left to return to Kini, only a handful of beachgoers had turned up.

Today I had my first dip in the sea for this year and was surprised at just how warm the water is… now that I have broken the ice, I will be trying to make this a daily routine.

Left my accommodation on Wednesday… first to go down to the small Square at the end of the street to feed the pigeons and cats, before walking to Anafiotika. A little known spot which can be tricky to find, Anafiotika is a picturesque tiny neighborhood of Athens, located on the North Eastern side of Acropolis hill. You could be forgiven for thinking that you are on a Greek island as this area is a hidden gem within the metropolis of the city.

The houses were built in the 1800’s by workers who came to Athens from the cycladic island of Anafi, at the request of King Otto, to perform renovations on his palace. Many of the residents today descend from the original families who arrived in the area and there are 45 of the original houses left.

Walking up some steps, I came upon a very friendly Greek who invited me to sit down and he offered coffee, although I requested just a drink of water. We chatted away in Greek and he told me that to help make ends meet, he had put his house on Airbnb and he himself was living in an undesirable area where there are many non Greeks and the “mafia” reigns. Naturally, he doesn’t like it there so every day he goes to Anafiotika to pass the time. I have posted a Video on my Facebook Profile page of this lovely man playing and singing to me, a song which originates from the island of Syros… my next stop.

Moved on from there to the Agora or Athens Public Market, a maze of covered stalls selling fish, meat and produce. Then a long walk back through the suburbs of Psyri and Thissio, stopping to eat and drink when needed.

It is now Thursday and the temperature is forecast to rise to 31°C, therefore, I won’t be walking 12000+ steps today as on most other days. I’ve eaten a Souvlaki, had a double Greek coffee, now a nice cold beer and soon to order some food. Sitting in Oionos Cafe in the Plaka, where the waiter has given great service over the past few days… participating in the wonderful pastime of watching the world go by.

It will be an early start for me tomorrow… the ferry to Syros departs at 7.30am, arrives in Hermoupolis at 11.15am. From there I will catch the bus to Kini, described as a small fishing village on the western side of the island. I’m looking forward to 2 weeks of beach, walks, eating, drinking, sleeping and little else.

Some 20 years ago, my sister gifted me a copy of the book “Making a Garden on a Greek Hillside” by Mary Jaqueline Tyrwhitt. I treasure that book and thought that one day it may be useful as a guide to planning my own garden in Greece but sadly, that is very unlikely to ever happen.

Jacky, as she liked to be known, wrote about the garden she created and the house she built, a property known as “Sparoza”, located outside Athens in Paiania. Jacky died in 1983 and now the Mediterranean Garden Society runs Sparoza’s experimental garden. The MGS, a non-profit making association founded in Greece, has members in 38 countries, including me.

Today I visited Sparoza and had the privilege of meeting Sally Razelou, the current custodian, as well as Christina Lambert, head of the Greek branch of the MGS and Sue Vlassis. All three ladies made me feel so welcome and I was able to enjoy a walk through the delightful garden, open only to members by appointment.

Joining us at Sparoza today were a family from the States… Walt a botanist/horticulturist, his wife Dona, their son Will and Katie. Had it not been for their offer to drop me at the motorway exit to the nearest Metro station, I would have had lunch at Sparoza but, never mind, there will be another time.

Yesterday’s weather was cloudy with a little rain, the latter not forecast. However, I managed a walk to the top of Mount Lycabettus and down again. If you are in Athens, it is the best location to view all of the city, surrounding hills and sea and it really puts into perspective the Acropolis and other monumental sites.