Gythio – an Island on the Mainland

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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RHS view from my window - Hotel Leonidas, Gythio

My last evening in Monemvasia spent eating cake and drinking tea in an outdoor waterfront cafe until it became too windy and too dark to read.  Retired early knowing I had an early start today.  

A day when everything seemed to be running on Greek time, i.e. anytime, something which has always irked me.  The 0700 hours breakfast start time, when I considered I would partake of a couple of rushed pieces of toast and coffee to set me up for the day – was 0715 hours – the time my bus was due to leave.  A bus which, as it turned out, eventually left at 0725 hours.  Just 30 minutes on the road, the three passengers that we were, asked to get off at a town and told by the driver, he would be back to pick us up again.  What that was all about, I’m sure not even God would know!  Perhaps for his morning coffee (not cigarette, the bus drivers have that and talk on their mobiles whilst negotiating bends in the road).  Returned 30 minutes later with a smile on his face – maybe he’d been home for a quick visit to the wife!  

It is always interesting making such bus travel as one is never taken directly to their destination but rather via many small towns and villages on the way – leaving and returning to the major road as you go.  Arrived in Sparti 0945 hours, quick check of the timetable board told me the next bus departing for Gythio would be at 1130 hours.  A quick toilet stop and on to the ticket office – no, bus to Gythio leaves in 5 minutes at 1000 hours!  Oh well, at least that was one change to my advantage.  

Arrived 1100 hours – my first stop Hotel Aktaion, a beautiful old neoclassical building on the waterfront with all rooms having a balcony and sea views but no Internet.  Next stop the neighbouring Hotel Leonidas – WiFi Internet, however, no connection in the rooms, only from the downstairs lounge.  Cheapest room on the 2nd floor 35 Euro per night, no balcony but with a wonderful sea view from the window.  This will be my home for the next four days.  

With a permanent population of approximately 5,000, there will be plenty for me to do and see.  Visitors here to Gythio, where the atmosphere feels much more like island than mainland, are primarily Greeks and Greek Americans.  I enjoyed a particularly good Greek Salad with bread and wine at a waterfront establishment then thought it appropriate that the first place I visit be the small island of Kranai, connected by a causeway, where Paris and Helen left for Troy after he abducted her from King Menelaous in nearby Sparta.  The small church graffiti-ed and in a general state of disrepair.  Rubbish and general litter about like I have not seen in Greece since my visits in the early days – not good, not right, actually shameful.      

On arrival here today the weather was stunning and 23 degrees C but then the wind came up and rather spoilt things.  Not yet sure about tomorrow’s programme, however, whatever I decide to do I must be out early to make the most of my time here in this beautiful  part of the Peloponneses.  

P.S.  Spoke with Costas from Bar Spetsa around midday today.  He was back at Athens Airport and bound for Munich.

6 Comments

  1. Comment by John:

    Hi Helen
    Seems a while since I made a comment, and looking back it is. We did the cold turkey bit, but joy of joy’s when we saw your blog back on line.
    With coffee made and settled comfortably, I commenced to read out your latest adventures.
    Yeah sounds real lay back and obviously Greek time is just that Greek time…stick a pin in the board and that’s it…you arrive at your destination… when you arrive, but then I guess that’s all part of the adventure, the unknown.
    Love the pics…they add to the feeling of being there, great thing this Internet, instantaneous, and great to follow you around
    Yes our weather here continues on, some rain, but we in Wanganui have dodged some of the rough stuff, the longer it goes on the better…one day less of winter, just as long as its not tagged on to the other end
    May the force be with you
    Regards
    John and Ella

  2. Comment by Phyl Bromley:

    Hi again Helen
    Nice to hear from you!
    Loved the new pics especially the traditional restaurant – Leonidio, just lovely. I could vision myself sitting in there.
    They certainly don’t run to schedule over there haha – guess you kind of get there when you get there and depart whenever. But you obviously get to see lots of other interesting places on your way en route.
    We are meeting up at Evelynnes on Monday 24th, so will have you in our thoughts. Gythio seems to be another nice spot, wow the island is surrounded by lovely nice spots! Love them all.
    Weather here today is nice, still warm and should stay like this for another 10 days, well that is according to the radio!!
    On a sour note, it might appear that our friend ‘Michael Laws’ may not be running for mayor again. He is tending to put his family first. But with lots of encouragement to stand again from those of us on Facebook, who knows! He has a lot of unfinished projects that would be nice for him to see through! Safe and happy travels my friend
    Love
    Phyl x

  3. Comment by Phyl Bromley:

    Adit:- Happy Belated Birthday wishes to you Helen x
    Love
    Phyl

  4. Comment by Phyl Bromley:

    Well, call it a ‘senior moment’ call it whatever you will, but I’m kind of thinking here that your birthday is actually on Friday the 21st when you will be sharing it with ‘family’ So if this is the case I sincerely hope you have a wonderful day Helen, and ……………………..just ignore the previous comment haha. It’s an age thing you know. You seem to be having a good run of warm weather, I am not sure of the seasons there or whether it gets really cold. But it certainly makes for better travelling when the weather is on your side. I love the view from your window in Gythio. You have been lucky with accommodation and it seems quite reasonable price wise. Bye for now
    Love
    Phyl

  5. Comment by The Peloponnese:

    Cool blog you have. I just love everything about Greece!

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