They Thought They Were in Paradise
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Dave, Costas, Me and Viv in Bar Spetsa
Friday 10 July was the night of Gerald’s barbecue … the day before Vivienne and Dave were to come from Athens. One of the first to arrive there just after 1800 hours, we sat in the downstairs courtyard drinking Moscow Mule’s, then just before sunset, Gerald summoned us all to the upstairs terrace to view the sunset and devour an overly large leaf-shaped platter of canapes, eventually returning downstairs for our main meal … Kondosouvla (imagine a large souvlaki, wrapped in paper, slow roasted on a spit over an open charcoal pit – extra crispy and extra tasty meat) accompanied by an assortment of delicious salads. I left earlier than most that night, knowing that I would have an extremely busy eight days ahead of me.
The following day, Saturday, I went for my usual dip and sunbathe at Agios Mamas beach. It was busier than normal down there that weekend with a three-day Regatta for youngsters aged 7 to 17 years. At around 1620 hours the Flying Cat 6 arrived at the quay from Piraeus … I was there to meet Vivienne and Dave, along with Filippos who would take their luggage to Villa Marina, allowing us to stroll along the seafront … were they really here with me on our island paradise, it was hard to believe. Their time in Athens had gone well, the only negative being the loss of Dave’s backpack. They had arrived late on Monday night in Athens after a long journey, took the bus heading into Syntagma Square, got off near the Crowne Plaza Hotel where they were to stay and unfortunately, did not realize until they had reached the hotel that they had left the backpack on the bus stop seat before taking a taxi the final leg. The loss of Dave’s passport necessitated visits to the New Zealand Consulate and police stations … this was not in their itinerary! A new passport is now awaiting him at their airport hotel in Athens where they will stay tomorrow night (Tuesday) before commencing the long journey back to Auckland.
Before they arrived on the island, I had given some thought to what we would do their first night here. In the afternoon they had gone for a swim at Agios Mamas beach, a mere 30m from their accommodation. Bar Spetsa too is even closer and we arranged to meet there around 2000 hours to see Costas. A walk through the town to The Poseidonion Grand Hotel for an aperitif on the terrace, then on to Akroyialia Restaurant in Kounoupitsa for dinner where the tables and chairs sit right on the sand (a scene from Shirley Valentine maybe). It was 2200 hours by the time we arrived and unfortunately, I had not made a booking, however, we sat at a table inside for a while until an outside table was free … a wonderful meal, well worth waiting for. From there, of course, it was back to Bar Spetsa for a nightcap then off to bed.
The following day, Sunday, around midday we took a horse and buggy ride down to the Old Harbour … a small mishap on the way when a horse and buggy in front clipped a roadside Moped. Our buggy driver was not too happy and he had to quieten down his horse … fortunately, in the end, the incident amounted to very little. We walked around to the Church of Panagia Armata and on to see Natalia Mela’s sculptures, including the wonderful mermaid, then up to the lighthouse, through the suburb of Pitioussa with its collection of expensive homes, by Garyfallo Bay, finally ending up at Agia Marina (Paradise Beach). After a well-earned cold drink at the bar (for Viv and I it was freshly squeezed orange juice), a swim before retiring to sunbeds on the beach then when we were hungry, sat down to a shared platter of cold meats and cheeses with a salad. A lovely walk home, meeting up in the Bar in the evening where I was able to introduce Viv and Dave to many of our friends.
On the Monday they decided to hire a Moped to go around the island, leaving me to have time out on the beach and a catch up of things at home. Early that evening we ate wood fired pizza at Quarter in the Square then into Bar Spetsa, naturally, however, I was home by 2200 hours to take a telephone call from my mum but also very much aware that we had an early start the next day.
Tuesday saw me up at 0500 hours, meeting Viv and Dave on the quay at 0600 hours, in time to catch the 0610 hours Flying Cat 6 to the island of Poros … the start of what was to be a very long day. After walking for a while, Dave came up with the idea that we could hire a quad bike but no, three people on one is not allowed. Okay, then two Moped’s, Dave would ride one with me on the back and Viv would ride the other. Alas, that was not to be either as Viv, having never ridden one before, took off a little too fast and the bike hire proprietor said no, sorry, you are going nowhere. So we walked up to the clock tower and through the narrow streets, eventually arriving back down in the town where we had brunch before ordering a taxi to take us to the nearest beach … the taxi returning at 1415 hours to go catch the Flying Dolphin to the island of Hydra. Once there, our first stop … for a nice cold beer, sitting in the beautiful harbor. A do love Spetses so much, however, a great thing about Hydra is there are no motorized bikes which on Spetses, there are too many of and they annoy me to hell. On Hydra, only donkeys and hand drawn carts. After our beer, I took Viv and Dave on what was to be a very hot walk up into the hills to view Hydra from above. Once back down at sea level, they had a swim off the rocks just around from the town, then we walked along to the village of Kamini where we had dinner at Kodylenia’s Taverna whilst watching the sunset … amazing! Later that evening as we waited for our hydrofoil back to Spetses, it was a joy to watch the children playing in the street and then when the boat arrived, to witness their incredible excitement as they greeted their cousins/friends. At 2315 hours, I finally walked in the door at home.
Wednesday, as we were going to have an early dinner at Spetsiotiko, lunch consisted of a coffee and toasted sandwich at Klimis before spending time at the beach. That evening I introduced Dave to the “boys” who meet weekly to play Pool at Point of View. Dave made eight of them in all and he had a ball … thoroughly enjoying his time with them. Viv and I sat outside for a quiet drink before moving on to Bar Spetsa and I was home relatively early by Greek standards at 0130 hours. By now Dave was saying “This has to be the best holiday of my life”!
Thursday was another very early start with Viv and Dave coming to meet me at the house at 0630 hours … I had planned a long walk for us up into the hills. Our first stop was the bakery where I bought pastries for us to eat when we arrived at the top near the Hunters’ Refuge … a Spanakopita (spinach pie) for Viv and a Bougatsa (custard filled pastry) for Dave and I. On the way up I pointed out to them the little house and allotment that one day I would love to own … it’s location is amazing. Also John and Penny’s house near the little pink church of Panagia Kapsodematousa. After a walk along the ridge, we came to the Hara Estate, a property which has always fascinated me. As far as I can ascertain, the home was abandoned more than 50 years’ ago. Owned by the Botasis family, the last inhabitants were the poet sisters Maria and Irini Botasis and Irini’s husband Herman, after they retired from living in Switzerland. Also on the Estate is the small church built in 1901 in honour of Virgin Mary the Myrtle Bearer. It is a replica of a church in the French Alps where the family often vacationed. I am never quite sure of the path from there down to the Gorgoepikou Monastery and church, however, we found a way. I chatted with one of the nuns who was extremely nice and friendly. After looking inside the beautiful church, we then appeared to upset three other nuns … I think they thought we were taking pictures of them and they do not like it. By the time we arrived back in the town, we had been walking for the best part of four hours. Visiting the beach was then a priority before having lunch with Costas at Bouboulina Restaurant, that night time spent in the Bar, capping off another wonderful day.
On Friday Vivienne and Dave decided to hire bicycles and pretty much do their own thing, leaving me free until 2030 hours when we met with Ray and Heather and Beverley at Bar Spetsa for pre dinner drinks before going to Paxni Taverna for dinner. Possibly my favourite restaurant on the island, it is not easy to find, located in a residential area about a 10 minute walk up from the town. The garden setting is amazing and in the winter sitting inside where the wine (their own) is all stored in barrels … the vegetables too are from their own organic garden. We started with mezes … Saganaki (fried cheese), Gigantes (giant beans), Fava (split yellow pea dip), Kalokithakia (courgettes) and Horiatiki Salata (Greek salad). Then shared a kilo of barbecued lamb chops … Costas specialty being his delicious barbecued meats. Not surprisingly, we returned to Bar Spetsa where I stayed until closing at 0415 hours (early for the time of year). Costas and I then went to Abari Bar … Spiros was closing but he sat with us outside whilst we had a drink and we were home by 0500 hours.
Saturday was Viv and Dave’s last full day on the island. They decided to keep their bicycles for another day and headed down to Paradise Beach with goodies from the bakery. Just before 2030 hours they passed by the house and we walked to The Poseidonion Grand Hotel to meet once again with Ray and Heather and Beverley. It was pretty much Moscow Mule cocktails all round, the other three went on their bikes, while Viv, Dave and I took a horse and buggy ride to Liotrivi Restaurant (The Old Olive Press) for dinner on the water’s edge. Fine dining but, unfortunately, windy and a little cold for me … nevertheless, I enjoyed my Fish Soup, followed by Grilled Salmon. It was the eve of Viv and Dave’s first wedding anniversary … when a rose seller came by, Dave bought a red rose for Viv and a yellow one for we other three girls. From Liotrivi we walked to Asteria to hear what was very loud, live Greek music, ending our night as one does in Bar Spetsa.
Like they say, all good things must come to an end and yesterday I was down on the quay to see Viv and Dave leave on the 1000 hours Katerina Star ferry. I did feel sad seeing them go, however, we have so many happy memories. It was such a joy and a pleasure to be their “Tour Guardian” … I will miss them.