You are free – I am jealous!

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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The Queen in her Palace - Kosmas village

Kosmas, in the province of Arcadia, had a population figure in 2001 of 591.  The village, renowned for it’s stone built houses, was burnt by the Germans in 1944 and ruined again during the Greek Civil War 1946-1969.  If you wish to get away from the stresses of life, then I can highly recommend you visit Kosmas.  You will enjoy your time of that I am sure, however, I doubt anyone will experience life quite as I did for the two days I was there.   

So, I’m sitting in the Square having finished my orange drink and I ask the waiter, where can I find a room to rent.  At that moment, along came Costas.  Very quickly we established that Greek was the only language he knows but anyway, loads my pack into the boot of his car and we set off to view his Traditional Hotel on the village outskirts approximately 200m from the Square.  Walked into the most amazing lounge/bar.  Would I like a sweet – no thank you  – Tsipouraki (Greek firewater in a shot glass) – yes please.  Sat on the leather lounges and conversed for quite some time and then reminded Costas I had come to see the rooms.  Viewed two – luxury accommodation complete with a fireplace in every room – normally costing 85 to 120 Euro per night and I believe that to be very reasonable.  I asked how much to which he replied I don’t want you to leave, is 30 Euro per night okay?  Yes, thank you.    

Settled myself in before venturing out for a walk in the fresh mountain air – the only sounds those of bees gathering nectar to make honey and the birds.  Before leaving, the invitation was made to dine together in the evening.  Costas wife and children were at their home in Geraki and for the first time ever, I had the honour of being the only guest in the hotel – I felt like a queen in a palace.    

Around maybe 2000 hours I was sitting reading in the lounge when Costas (in his early 40’s) returned.  He made coffee which we drank whilst conversing at length about everything from the state of the Greek economy to what, in the end, became our catch phrase – You are free – I am jealous!  Although the temperature had been somewhere around 30 degrees C during the day, in the evening there was a definite chill in the air and so the fire was lit and the whole atmosphere became even more unreal.  All of these things were done very quietly and without fuss – Costas laboured away in the kitchen until around 2230 hours when the call came – we are ready.  Delicious macaroni with feta cheese mixed through and a fresh tomato, onion and garlic sauce.  Accompanied by a shared plate of fried aubergine slices, pale green peppers and the most wonderful cheese.  Costas’ own red wine – with an unimaginable clarity of colour, smell and taste.  Except, of course, maybe the local water which is divine, there doesn’t exist anything better.  Consumed copious amounts as we retired to the computer screen selection of music – a mix of both Greek and English.    

Some time in the early hours went outside to see the stars – you cannot imagine how still and quiet a place can be.  The hotel name translates to “Neighbour to the Sky”.  When I mentioned the old man had given me roses from his garden – and I’ve got roses he said, where upon he went outside returning with three beautiful blooms.  Eventually said goodnight around 0430 hours and awoke yesterday about 1230 hours feeling very much okay.  Then repeated everything all over again only last night dinner consisted of an omelet filled with potatoes and smoked ham, Greek salad, chips and more of the same yummy aubergine slices and cheese and more wine.  However, to bed around 0200 hours since I knew somehow today I had to wrench myself away.   

I urge you all to check this place out on www.ouranogiton.gr  You should be able to translate the site to English but if not, enjoy the photographs anyway.  The hotel was only built three years’ ago and their custom to date has come mainly from Athenians, Israelis, Germans and English – particularly during the Winter when there is snow and at weekends.  But let us not forget one intrepid traveller from New Zealand – ME!    

YOU ARE FREE – I AM JEALOUS!

One Comment

  1. Comment by Phyl Bromley:

    Wow, you have travelled somewhat over the last few days. The drivers sound quite hair raising to say the least. Fancy meeting another Costas, is that quite a popular name in Greece? You seem to have met up with some lovely people on your travels Helen. You must have walked your legs off by now. Great way to keep in trim! Something I should be doing more off. Nice also to have luxury accommodation at modest rates. Missed your blog for a few days there, nice to have you back 🙂 Safe travels.
    Love
    Phyl x

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