My time in Leonidio
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Daytime street view of Traditional Restaurant - Leonidio
The one thing I did not realise when I took the room in Leonidio was that it’s location on the main road into town meant the crazy Greek drivers would not have slowed down at that point coming into town, nor that they would have already gained speed on their way out. That first night I enjoyed a meal at a local taverna. With the temperature predicted to be 30 degrees C the following day, I retired early at 2230 hours, only to be faced with a lousy night. Peace shattering noisy cars, scooters and motorbikes. A dog which did not let up barking for hours. Another guest in the middle of the night sicking up somewhere within hearing. Mosquitoes making a feast of me. Watched television, read, ate a block of my favourite Greek chocolate Lacta, drank water – all to no avail.
In spite of the previous night’s dramas, I set off early the following morning to discover this beautiful town. Olive trees growing in every possible piece of ground, many very old and of gigantic proportions with gnarled trunks. Pussycats conspicuous by their absence – perhaps many have perished under the wheels of the mad Greek drivers who seem to abound. I wonder about all the old deserted and abandoned houses – knowing the amount of red tape and bureaucracy one must face to do anything here, it is probably not surprising.
Before I left Spetses, Costas, who always seemed to be able to produce whatever it was I was looking for, including needle and thread to mend – gave me from his vast book collection, a copy of ‘The Magus’ which Paddy and Wendy had recommended I read. I managed 90 odd pages during my first day in Leonidio and have continued to find it very difficult to put down.
A beautiful old building had caught my eye as I walked around earlier in the day, surrounded by all sorts of paraphernalia – an old cart, barrels, baskets, bottles, to some – junk, however, as I approached closer I came to realise that it was, in fact, a Traditional Restaurant offering local delicacies since 1904. Returned there at 1300 hours, to be told it would be open only in the evening from 1900 hours and I knew I would have to return then to sample their fare. Settled for a wood fired oven Pizza Tzakoniki – feta, olives, onions, tomato, cheese, capsicum – all washed down with yet another 1/4 litre of delicious red wine from the barrel.
The next morning I descended downstairs to say my farewells. There I met Heidi, a German lady who like me, first visited Greece in the early 70’s. Among other things she now escorts small groups of people through this wonderful land – currently six in her group and they also dined at the same Restaurant the previous evening. Insisted I partake of a small cheese pie and a strawberry while my lovely host produced a glass of freshly squeezed orange. Most welcome. Their parting words to me “Good Luck” – the next chapter in my journey will go some way to explaining why.