Final Week On Spetses 2011
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Costas and I - last night out in Delfinia
Following our return from Hydra last week, our time has been spent mostly in quiet solitude … with the fire burning, enjoying reading, the cats, watching movies, a little shopping, chores at the Bar and at home and some nights, venturing out for a few drinks. It is difficult to realize that Thursday will herald the official beginning of Winter here … both days and nights have been relatively mild for the time of year – not a great deal of sunshine, however, only light winds and no rain to speak of.
Last evening being our final opportunity to dine out, I chose to go to Taverna Paxni (meaning a place where sheep only were kept during the winter). Serving traditional Greek cuisine, our other option was Liotrivi, however, there they serve curries and European fare … I can have that anywhere in New Zealand and so, therefore, I wanted to eat food I cannot find at home. Left the house to make the 15 minute walk up the hill … it is not a place tourists would find easily which is how we like it. Located up a long concrete drive with vegetable gardens either side, it is indeed a gem. The owner makes his own wine (white only) which is stored in large barrels inside the Taverna. When the wine runs out, the season ends. Superb atmosphere and food to die for … we ordered a salad which contained a mixture of greens and tomatoes, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice – Fava – toasted bread spread with olive oil, salt and herbs and naturally, a kilo of wine. For mains Costas had the grilled chicken and I had grilled lamb cutlets, both served with delicious potatoes and rice. The entire meal one of the best I have ever tasted – this place is truly a hidden secret.
On leaving the Taverna, we walked on down to the Old Harbour and into the small Kafeneion where Costas goes on occasion during the winter months to keep company and play cards with a handful of his friends. Typically a male domain where the conversation can be about food, football or politics and where each individual appears hell bent on having an opposing opinion to all the others.
From the Kafeneion we made our way back to the Dapia (main town), finishing our night at Delfinia Bar, over a couple of drinks and listening to predominantly blues music. Wherever one goes at this time of the year, it is very quiet … no tourists at all and with the current economic climate in Greece, most of the locals are forced to stay at home. Along with Bar Spetsa, Balconi has also closed for now, however, Rendezvous, Delfinia, Destino and Mayo, among others, all stay open until the wee small hours, catering for the likes of The Greek and The Antipodean.
Sadly, tomorrow I must begin the long journey back to New Zealand. Tonight I will retire early … with the alarm set for 0500 hours as by 0615 hours, I will farewell Costas and Spetses before catching the early hydrofoil to Piraeus. From the Port, a bus to Athens Airport and hours to kill until my Emirates flight to Dubai – departing 1550 hours. Fortunately, for me, the next general strike is scheduled for the following day – Thursday. With a 12 hour stopover in Dubai, I have a room at the Millenium-Airport Hotel (compliments of Emirates) which should allow me a sleep of maybe six hours or so … flying out of Dubai at 1010 hours on Thursday 1 December, bound for Auckland, via Melbourne. Finally, an hour’s flight on a ‘pencil’ plane to Wanganui … all things being equal, I will be back there around 1625 hours on Friday 2 December where my Mum and son Dave will be awaiting me – I look forward to seeing them again. The time frame for the journey – just a tad under 48 hours!
Present thoughts are to return to Greece some time in April next year, perhaps in time to spend Easter once again (Greek Orthodox Easter Sunday 15 April) with my family on Crete, then move on to Spetses and Costas until around late May/early June. Come October, I shall return again for a stay of similar duration as the one about to end now. It is not easy creating a life in two countries on opposite sides of the world, however, it is how I believe it must be for now. I feel very lucky and blessed with my current lifestyle. As to the future – we will see how things pan out.