Time Out Together on Hydra
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |Saturday midday and yet again, blessed with glorious weather … bought ‘The Guardian’, enjoyed a coffee at Philippos then caught the Flying Dolphin XXIX at 1305 hours to Hydra, via Ermioni. I spent time on Hydra last year, early in my travels, in fact, it was from Hydra that I travelled on to Spetses in early May … Costas had visited the island before, however, had never stayed over until this past weekend.
A very tranquil and serene place with a total ban on motorized transport … when people or goods are unable to be moved on foot, then there are always the donkeys or the small hand carts to move things around. We had made a booking at the Piteoussa Guest House, enjoying a walk there in brilliant sunshine, under a cloudless sky, to check in to our room on the 1st floor – with a balcony. Yanni the owner was awaiting us … full of information and recommendations of the best places to eat and drink and it was one of these places – Isalos Cafe in the harbour that we headed to for a late lunch of omelette’s and a couple of beers. Time then for a casual stroll around the coastal road, to work off our lunch, on such a beautiful day. It was late afternoon when we returned to the town to stop off at another of Yanni’s recommended places – Papagalos … a quiet drink before retiring for a late siesta.
So far, so good … left our room rather late to find Ostria Taverna where we would have dinner. A small, intimate and cosy wee place … quickly we learnt that it was to be their last night before closing and therefore, the menu was a little limited. Ordered a Green Salad and Tzatziki to share, followed by fried Shrimps for Costas and Grilled Prawns for me, with the usual lovely crusty bread and white wine. A table of eight or so were celebrating a birthday and so we finished with a piece of yummy birthday cake which they offered. Now replete and of course with it being Saturday night, we headed back to Papagalos. DJ, dancing and very loud music … almost too much for this mature couple! Leaving there in the early hours, it was outside The Pirate Bar that we spoke to James, an English guy … together we went to a small cafe/bar in a side alley where we stayed until 0300 hours. Needless to say, no complaints about our first night on Hydra.
A late rising on Sunday as was to be expected then out once again to make the short walk to Isalos Cafe for a full English breakfast … more than we could eat. Setting off this time in the other direction, to walk the coastal path … making the most of more photographic opportunities. Our siesta later on somewhat interrupted, however, as there was a soccer game in progress near our accommodation and the Greeks certainly know how to make a din on such occasions. The other restaurant recommended by Yanni was Annita Taverna … when we found it I quickly realised that I had stopped there for lunch one day last year – we would not be disappointed with the food we ordered. Fava and Horta to begin followed by Fish Soup for me and Beef and Kritharaki in Red Sauce for Costas, bread and white wine. Very generous servings and absolute tops in taste, just like you would expect to eat in some one’s home … we really enjoyed it. Not wanting to subject ourselves again to loud music, we then went to Sinialo Cafe/Bar in the harbour. A couple of quiet drinks, good conversation and back to our room before midnight,
Today, surprise surprise, it was back to Isalos for brunch … Costas forced down another full English breakfast while I ordered a Club Sandwich and fries. Taking our time whilst reading ‘The Observor’ … what I could not eat of the fries, I fed to two or three of the local moggies and I know they were most appreciative. Actually, there could be more cats than human beings living on Hydra … at least, that is the feeling one gets. Some are in very good condition while others are not and you cannot help but feel for them. In particular, one we first saw on Saturday night … “our wee girl”. White, tiny and with incredibly short legs – we both fell in love with her. When we returned today to see her, among her companions was a big, darling old moggy I had befriended last year and it was so nice to see him again. We enquired from a local shop owner as to whether or not “our wee girl” had an owner. She replied “No, take her” and I can tell you we came very close to doing so. However, the logistics of getting her back to Spetses on the hydrofoil and the ongoing task of blending her into the family and her ultimate acceptance by the existing four … I believe Costas probably made the right decision and we left her there.
After an enjoyable walk up a path into the hills behind the town and returning for a shared cold beer at Isalos Cafe, we caught the 1440 hours hydrofoil for the 30 minute ride and return to Spetses and home. It is evening now and rather cold outside but the fire burns … I have just nine days more and I know I must continue to enjoy every one of them.