1 Night Nafplio, Dimitsana 2
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Dimitsana - mountain village in the Peloponnese's
It is now almost three days since our return from holidays, however, with Internet woes, up until now I have been unable to write and post a Blog about our travels so I trust my memory will serve me well.
Left the house around 0900 hours last Monday to meet Raymond and Heather for coffee at the harbour … we were catching the 1000 hours ferry to Kosta, from where we would set off in their black metallic Jaguar on our journey – travelling in real comfort and style. First stop – the Cavernous Churches of Ayios Georgios – Metamorphosis, where you enter what is like a caldera through a cave and inside the caldera, are two little churches … an amazing place. Our next stop would be for a late breakfast – hilltop location high above New Epidavros with spectacular views … a pity about the haze on an otherwise beautiful day for this time of the year.
Our destination that day was to be the old city of Nafplio … the first capital of modern Greece, a seaport town in the Peloponnese’s, overlooked by the castle of Palamidi. After finding a Parking lot down by the waterfront, we walked with our luggage to check in at the Ilion Hotel located on the hill just beyond Syntagma Square. The former residence of a 19th Century Mayor, the hotel now filled with antique furniture from the owner’s personal collection. A unique and quirky place … each room with a theme, painted in bold, warm colours with murals, paintings, prints, objets d’art, curios and collect-ables everywhere.
That afternoon, looking out to Bourtzi Castle, we sat having drinks in the sun on the waterfront. After an early evening siesta, we ventured out once more … this time to Alaloum Restaurant for dinner, where the portions were huge and the food delicious. In the Chef’s Salad – of particular note, the tastiest of tomatoes … Grilled Mushrooms to die for … Soutzoukakia (spicy oblong meatballs in red sauce) and much more – we definitely over ordered, however, it was a meal to remember. Then a walk to ‘O Lathos’ (Mistake) Bar which Costas had been to before … almost impossible to describe, full of junk and memorabilia collected I would imagine over many years by the rather sombre, stony faced owner/operator. Many of the bits and bobs were somehow remotely controlled and would move at the press of a button … including a table which moved just as a patron was about to pick up their drink – unbelievable stuff! I want to take my son Dave there one day – I know he would love it! Finished our evening off at Allotino … my friend Doreen and I stayed in the Traditional Pension above in 2004.
Tuesday morning, after a soak in our Jacuzzi, Costas and I had Room Service Breakfast on our balcony. Delivered to the room on a trolley, everything from Rose Liqueur made by the hotel owner, orange juice, yummy bread, ham, cheese, hard boiled eggs, yogurt and honey, homemade preserves and coffee. It was another beautiful day and following a walk around the old town, by midday we were once again on the road … through Argos and Tripoli and the mountains, heading for the small village of Dimitsana. We had made a booking at the Koustenis Village Resort … an assortment of stone buildings, our rooms were side-by-side, upstairs, fireplaces and with balconies overlooking the Lousios Gorge. A little further out from Dimitsana than we had expected, however, the family owners were more than happy to drive us to the village … we would walk back in the early hours.
That first afternoon, our first lift up to the beautiful traditional village of Dimitsana … with its stone built houses and at an altitude of 1000 metres. We walked around the cobble-stoned streets taking photographs and the other three (not for me) climbed up the spiral staircase of the Bell Tower for even greater views. A delicious lunch at ‘Sto Kioupi’ Restaurant followed by drinks at the only place we could find … a cake shop come cafe (both with fireplaces) then a ride back to our hotel for an early evening siesta. That evening we returned to ‘Sto Kioupi’ for dinner, back to the cake shop for a drink or two and discovered their Portokalopita (Orange Pie) which was simply out of this world! The light of the moon helped us find our way home, laughing or singing for most of the way.
Wednesday dawned … we could not believe our luck – yet again, gloriously sunny and warm weather. After breakfast we checked out the family’s animal ‘zoo’ and the nearby Open-Air Water Power Museum. In the 18th Century, Dimitsana was a commercial centre and it flourished during the years, up to and including the Greek War of Independence in 1821. It’s position on the Lousios Gorge meant that water was available to power mills that were involved in the production of flour, animal skins, metal works and most importantly, gunpowder, without which the Greek freedom fighters would have been doing a lot less.
Back to the hotel and into the Jaguar for a tiki tour, stopping first at the village of Paliohora where we saw a Lotus Tree. Continuing down into the Lousios Gorge along a winding road, the autumn colours were stunning … across the Lousios River and up the other side, on to the Monastery of Panagia Tou Filosophou. After a while, a monk came out to greet us, inviting us into the reception area for a drink of water and loukoumi (Turkish delight) sweet. Unfortunately, he had a pronounced speech impediment and as he spoke to us in his very best English about the history of the Monastery, I had an uncontrollable fit of the giggles. I could not stop … Costas was telling me to go outside, however, I thought that would be even more insulting – I was so embarrassed! The Lousios Gorge hides a number of secluded monasteries along it’s walls … they became centres of resistance and education during the years up to the Greek War of Independence. After travelling down, up and around the mountains, we eventually arrived back in Dimitsana for a light lunch, back to the hotel for a siesta followed by a repeat of the evening before … ride up to the village, dinner at ‘Sto Kioupi’, drinkies at the cake shop and a walk home – singing and laughing along the way.
Thursday morning following breakfast (another amazing day – 32 degrees at 1100 hours) we set off via an alternative route heading back to Spetses. While the car was being washed and cleaned, we had lunch in Porto Heli, drove the short distance to Kosta, caught a sea taxi at 1630 hours and back to the island. A great time was had by us all … yet more wonderful memories I will have forever!