Brief Stay In Hania

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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Helen and Antonia at entrance to Diktaion Andron cave

Suffering unbelievable fatigue, how wonderful it was to finally lay down in my bed, however, my sleep was erratic … of course, it can take many days for the body clock to adjust after such a lengthy journey.  Never mind the beds in Greece – nearly always as hard as nails, they have always been like this … I do miss the comfort of my own. 

On Saturday around 1430 hours I ventured out to make the short walk to a Supermarket nearby.  To my surprise, the temperature was 32 degrees C – exactly what I ordered!  Alas, it was not to last … by 1630 hours when Antonia and I left the house to go and watch her grandson Constantinos playing soccer, the temperature had dropped to 19 degrees C and heavy rain had arrived.  Rain – oh my God, you cannot imagine what a deluge it was but surprisingly, the boys played on, only to lose 2-0.  We stayed and watched in amazement from the relative comfort of a covered stand, as they tried to move the ball around on a field completely covered with water.  With Antonia’s daughter Mary, other son Billy and a vocal crowd of supporters drinking Raki and eating chestnuts – only in Greece can one experience such an atmosphere. 

My plans had been to leave for Kastelli on Sunday, however, Antonia asked me to join her on an ekthromi (trip) to the Lassithi Plateau in eastern Crete.  At 0720 hours on Sunday, undeterred by the rain, Antonia’s husband Vasilies took us to await our bus – a few people had opted out, however, those remaining were to experience a great day.  Listening to and singing along to music as we made our way east past Rethymno and Iraklion.  Joke telling and mantinades … the Cretan mantinada is a rhyming couplet in Cretan dialect.  Each mantinada is complete in itself in spite of its short length, like a limerick.  The mantinada is the unique way in which young and old in Crete can express their many and varied emotions:  sorrow, joy, hope, desire, love, anger, revenge, nostalgia.

After a morning coffee stop along the way, we reached the Lassithi Plateau in sunshine.  A large scenic plain located 70 kilometres from Iraklion and at an average altitude of 840 metres.  Famous for some 10,000 white sailed windmills used for decades to irrigate the land, most abandoned nowadays in favour of modern diesel and electrical pumps.  Also famous for the Diktaion Andron cave which according to Greek Mythology was the birthplace of Zeus.  Alas, the cave was closed due to another strike.  Nevertheless, some of us made the 20 minute walk up to the cave entrance and back down.  Following a round trip of the Plateau, our bus stopped at a Taverna for lunch.  Sharing an outside table with others and ordering our plates of food and wine the Greek way – verbally, not from reading a menu … surrounded by serious tourists, partaking of for example, a Greek Salad with a cappuccino – very strange! 

With the clouds fast rolling in, we boarded our bus for the descent and return journey, stopping once to visit a Monastery and later for our afternoon caffeine fix … back to Hania in darkness and rain.  Our itinerary was to have included a side trip to the small hillside village of Fodele, reputedly the birthplace of the Renaissance artist El Greco, however, weather conditions being such, we did not go there.

In spite of Greece’s dire economic situation, Greek spirit prevails … very evident at the soccer game and again on our bus trip.

Telephoned Costas that evening who was to inform me of the All Blacks win 20-6 against the Wallabies – fantastico!  I have every confidence in our boys winning the Cup next weekend in the final against France.  GO THE BLACKS!

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