Panayiri, Comings and Goings in Kastelli
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Family members and others at Panayiri to celebrate Roma's Name Day
Much to my delight, on Wednesday morning Vanna came by the house and we spent a couple of hours catching up together. After enjoying a lunch of Papoutsakia (literally – little shoes) eggplants stuffed with mince and topped with bechamel sauce, baked in the oven, together with another of Katina’s wonderful salads, I decided to give the beach a miss as the day was a little overcast … taking advantage of siesta instead being a good alternative. We also learnt that Anna would not be returning to Kastelli from Hania until Saturday – disappointing for me as I will move on Sunday, allowing us very little time together. In the evening a simple meal of Dakos – Paxamadia topped with fresh tomato pulp, olive oil, rigani and myzithra – simple Cretan fare!
Everyday, Katina will ask me “Tee tha fame simera?” (What shall we eat today) – knowing full well that I am happy with whatever she prepares. Yesterday Katina cooked meat in the oven with Kritharaki (a rice-shaped pasta also known as Orzo). All the food is yummy here and notice how I like to rub it in – I will very much miss the Greek cuisine when I leave. On my walk to the beach I saw Roma at his factory – 1 October is his Name Day and there was to be a Panayiri (also known as a Yiorti) at a small church on the outskirts of Kastelli last night. A day early, however, celebrating a Saints feast day often takes place the evening before the actual Name Day.
At 1700 hours Katina and I waited for Roma by the main road into town as it was arranged that he would take us to the Panayiri. It is an annual event which in previous years I am told has been a big celebration with scores of people attending, masses of food, wine, dancing and merriment into the small hours of the morning. However, last year after many had over indulged, a vehicle returning to Kastelli went over the bank along what is a secondary road and so this year it was to be a much quieter affair. With the Papas ringing the church bells, proclaiming the beginning of the service, many people moved into the church, others mingled outside where the final blessings and dedication took place. The special breads were cut and we all received pieces from the Papas, following which we enjoyed a simple meal of bread, cheese, sardines, kalitsounia and xerotigana – with wine or tsikoudia. We were home by 2030 hours having been given a ride back with the Papas.
It was at the Panayiri that I met Heinz-Peter and Ulrike, a German couple from Cologne. Ten years’ ago they bought an old traditional house in the mountain village of Loussakies, a few kilometres from Kastelli and they come three times a year to stay. I was delighted when Ulrike invited me to visit them. Stopping at the Zaharoplastio to buy a half kilo of small sweet pastries on my way, as arranged Ulrike picked me up this morning at 1030 hours, by the periptero (kiosk) on the main road in town.
From the first moment we arrived at their house in Loussakies I was in love – with the house, the peaceful environment and the location … in the mountains, with a view of the sea and Kastelli in the distance. We talked a lot about Greeks – their thinking and behaviours, their way of life and of the difficulties and all the wonderful things living in Greece has to offer. After thanking my hosts and bidding them farewell just after 1700 hours to walk back to Kastelli, having turned down Ulrike’s offer to drive me, I understood very well that today I had had the pleasure of spending time with a couple, in a place, where I could also see I would be very happy living in the future. That is, when and if Crete is one day to be my permanent home.