Damouhari and places nearby
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Self portrait at Fakistra beach, The Pelion
Damouhari – what a wonderful paradise I have found, especially here at Victoria Guesthouse where the family make you feel you are at home and all the guests and visitors to Victoria Cafe are so lovely and friendly. I would be quite content to sit in the courtyard – eat, drink, talk with the people and write, however, there are many wonderful places to explore nearby.
Yesterday, I set off to walk to Papa Nero beach and the small settlement of Agios Ioannis, much closer to Damouhari than Tsagarada and in fact, the point where my bus terminated last Friday, if only I had known then what I know now! Anyway, a pleasant walk to Agios Ioannis where I enjoyed a Hortopita (green vege pastry) for brekkie by the beach, followed by a walk back to the southern end of Papa Nero beach where I had no problem passing several hours, alternating from sun to shade under wonderful trees. Unfortunately, for some reason unknown to me, the Aegean Sea here at present is producing massive waves at all the beaches, making swimming an activity only for those a lot braver or more stupid than me. I fit in with the majority who are not venturing far beyond the waterline – just enough to cool down and feel refreshed later on.
Early this morning I set off to walk to Fakistra beach, the pathway to which begins along the very same route I arrived at Damouhari last Friday. When I saw the cobbled path literally climbing uphill, I could not believe I came down that hill with my backpack and I believe it was only Helen’s sheer determination and stubbornness that brought her here.
The level of difficulty for this route which takes you along the coast, parallel to the sea, is described as medium but for those who walk it, the spectacular views and scenery are rewarding. Once you arrive at the pagoda, you follow a dirt road, leading once more to a path which meanders downhill through olive groves, eventually arriving at white rocks where the path continues uphill, through rocky terrain and low vegetation. From this point, on a clear day like today, the islands of the Sporades can be seen, before you continue on downhill to a small hut. From the hut, the path takes you once again uphill through thick vegetation this time and another dirt road.
It was somewhere here that Christina, her husband and her god daughter from France caught up with me on the path and together we walked on until we arrived at the side path which takes you to Krifo Scholio, now a tiny church and the sea cave of Panagia Megalomata full of stalactites. During the Turkish occupation, Krifo Scholio served as a school, an allegedly clandestine school that helped Greeks maintain their language, culture and religion during the period of Ottoman rule. According to what I have heard, children from Tsagarada and Mouresi made their way down there at night to read and learn, finding their way by shining small torches towards the ground.
Once back up on the dirt road, it is only a very short distance until you arrive at the ashphalt parking area above Fakistra beach where I farewelled my companions and made my way down the stone path to the wild, pebbly beach and turquoise waters. Deserted other than for a young couple who were camping nearby in an olive grove, she was Greek, he was English, they met 4 months’ ago at a music festival and now live together in Ireland. They left me alone in paradise!
Late last night, all I had been able to find to take with me today to eat, were two pots of creme caramel and a packet of sesame bread sticks. I ate one of the creme caramel and half the sesame bread sticks before tempting fate in the wild waters. Wanting only to refresh myself for the return journey, I sat down on a rock where soon the waters poured over me, throwing me off the rock and a hasty retreat to higher ground. With the waves sounding like cannon fire as they crashed against the rocks, I left Fakistra to return to Damouhari from where I will reluctantly move on this Wednesday.
Firstly, I must make my way back to Volos from where I will take a boat to Skiathos, with only six nights on the Sporades islands before heading to Skyros to meet up with my Canadian friend Anna for a few days. Company will make a pleasant change from travelling alone.