Last 2 Days in Monodendri and Journey to Metsovo

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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Looking down into the Vikos Gorge from path to Monodendri

Following Sunday’s marathon trek, Monday became a self imposed day of rest for me and Tuesday, a day for milling around Monodendri and quiet walks.  First, I took the path marked ‘Grounia Place’ 10 minutes, pleasant enough, however, nothing in particular to see.  Second, I ventured down the path to the Vikos Canyon for 20 minutes or so – amazing views from an outcrop but far too hot for me and a return to Monodendri.  Third, a path marked ‘Agios Apostoli’ 15 minutes, again a pleasant walk but seemingly leading nowhere, however, sharing the path with me was a tortoise – I am totally in love with these creatures.    

Back in Monodendri, I decided to visit the Rizarios Handicraft Centre, where the embroidered and woven items for sale were beautiful but expensive.   Greek benefactors Manthos Rizarios 1764-1824 and his younger brother Georgios Rizarios 1769-1842, were born in Monodendri.  Orphaned at an early age, first Manthos and followed later by Georgios, moved to Moscow where they were involved in trade and made their fortunes.  Upstairs there was an impressive photographic exhibition of images, all taken in the area and no doubt, mostly with high quality photographic equipment.  

As with the majority of evenings spent in Monodendri, both nights I ate at the Taverna just off the square on the road to the village’s lower parking area.  They also have tables in the Square but I preferred the atmosphere at the Taverna – excellent food and service.  High season in Monodendri is in the Winter months but personally, I feel it would be well worth a visit in Autumn when the colours would be spectacular.  

Originally I had intended to stay 10 nights, however, without a vehicle, one is limited to the villages in the immediate vicinity and after a week, I felt ready to move on.  With no bus until Friday and hoping to avoid a repeat of the difficult road I had taken to get there, I spoke with the hotel owner, in the hope that he would find me a lift to Ioannina, or at least to a place where a bus would be available.  Cutting a long story short, this morning I hitched a ride in his father’s Mercedes, all the way to the Ktel Bus Station in Ioannina – yippee!  

Still unsure of where I would travel to today, I first asked at the ticket window if there was a bus to Lia (the village of Nicholas Gage and the setting for his great read “Eleni”).  Struck some rude guy who pretended not to know where Lia was and so I moved to another window, only to be told, Ktel have nothing to do with buses to Lia and that guy could not tell me from where I would find out.  So, I made an instant decision and purchased a ticket for the bus to Metsovo, leaving 45 minutes later at 1115 hours, arriving in Metsovo 1230 hours.  Travelling mainly along the E92 in order to drop off and pick up passengers in the villages, however, for a brief time, travelling on the A2 Motorway with it’s amazing number of very long tunnels.  

Located in the Pindos mountains at an altitude of 1160m, Metsovo is a favoured destination for Greeks in August, especially over this coming weekend – 15 August, a unique Feast Day in the Greek Orthodox Church.  The third most important religious holiday after Easter and Christmas, it is traditionally celebrated with church services and panigyria (festivals).  The entire country is virtually shutdown and everyone takes advantage of the long weekend to rest or light a candle for Panagia (Virgin Mary) whose ascent to the heavens is commemorated on this day.  Therefore, I knew I was arriving in a place, at a time when accommodation would be at a premium.  Fortunately, I found a room without much trouble but for 2 nights only.  The rooms are owned by the Apollon Hotel where it would cost me 50 Euro per night, however, the rooms are only 30 Euro per night.   

Two intense days should have me seeing all I want to see here in Metsovo and on Friday I will move on to Kalambaka near the monasteries of Meteora, where I do not expect it will be as busy.

One Comment

  1. Comment by Ann:

    I am happy to hear you are still in motion! But what happened to the other 45 villages? I guess there is only so much you can do without a car or motorbike, way up there. And especially with Panagia (and all the panagyria) looming. I almost forgot about that holiday, until this morning when someone reminded me. We certainly could use the kind of break you describe!

    At the moment, we have no water, and this morning our last guests abandoned us because they want showers! I can understand that. But I’m not sure they’ll find anything this cheap anywhere on Lemnos this weekend!

    Themis is mulling over the thought of buying a pump, so we can pull water up from the town system, which seems to have cut us off these last couple of days. The harbour is crawling with tourists, and some of Themis old elementary school buddies are showing up (again) which is why he stayed up all night last night, eating octopus and drinking wine…

    I have started a regular routine of writing in the library. I seem to be over most of my shock. And there is progress, here and there… I’ll tell you about that later. Almost bought a ticket to get out of here this weekend, but today I’m weighing the pros and cons of going down to Crete, and maybe stopping in on Hydra, I tell you, there’s nothing like getting electrocuted to enhance the decision-making process, but I doubt this is a good weekend to hit the road… or the Theophilos!

    Be well Keep writing! I am glued to your next chapter…

    Ann

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