Limnos, Agios Efstratios and Journey to Ioannina
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Helen on the island of Agios Efstratios
My four night stay at Demis and Anna’s in Myrina, Limnos came to an end last evening when Demis drove me down to the Port to await once again the arrival of ferry boat “Theofolis”. Friday evening Anna made a loaf of her delicious Fig Bread from their own dried figs and ground almonds. I am not sure of all the ingredients, however, she has promised to email me the recipe. Under comments in my previous blog ‘Excursions and Explorations on Limnos’, anyone interested can find a link to Anna’s Purslane with Tomato recipe (see also photo in More Photos II).
Awoke Saturday morning to learn that late the night before, Demis had recruited Tristan arriving off a ferry and Tristan was to occupy the other room for two nights. 24 years’ old, Tristan Stricker is a delightful young man from Bristol in England who set out from home not much over a month ago to cycle through Europe. Initially, Tristan’s plan if the $’s allowed him, was to make it as far as Bangkok, however, indications were he probably would not go beyond Europe this time. He writes a brief but amusing blog which currently does need updating, however, he maybe tending to that now whilst he is in Athens on www.crazyguyonabike.com – look under Journals and it contains many photographs of himself taken by setting his camera for 10 seconds before moving into position, on his bike, or whatever.
For seven years Anna has wanted to visit the small island of Agios Efstratios. With less than 300 inhabitants and a total land area of approximately 44 square kilometres, it lies 30 kilometres SW of Limnos. From the early 1930’s to 1943 and again from 1948 until 1963 it was a place of internment for political exiles. In the 1970’s it was again used as an offshore prison for political dissidents, including the activist and musical composer Mikis Theodorakis (Zorba the Greek) amongst others. The 19 February 1968 earthquake (7.1 on the Richter scale) which hit Palaio Pedino on Limnos, also struck Agios Efstratios demolishing most houses.
Yesterday, Anna and I took the boat “Anemos” to the island – first stop was for those who wished to jump in for a swim at one of the island’s many lovely beaches and then around to dock in the harbour of the town. A walk about the charming little village and a visit to the Museum of Democracy – wow, a very moving experience. Housed in a building which was originally the first school on the island and then, when Agios Efstratios was a place of exile for political internees it was used as an infirmary. The building was abandoned after being severely damaged in the 1968 earthquake, however, between 2005 and 2007, it was completely restored. Anna and I enjoyed a shared lunch at a local Taverna before heading to the beach then a dash to be the last to board at 1630 hours for the 2 1/2 hour boat trip back to Limnos.
Once aboard the ferry boat “Theofolis” last night – late yet again, scheduled 0110 hours departure became around 0200 hours, it was difficult to find a place to lie down and rest. Feeling so tired on arrival in the northern city of Thessaloniki, I took a taxi to the Bus Station where it was 32 degrees C. Arrived there at 1105 hours leaving me just enough time in hand to catch the 1130 hours bus to Ioannina. I had anticipated the journey would take around 5 hours, however, with an amazing motorway all the way, we reached Ioannina by 1500 hours, a journey of only 3 1/2 hours. Initially the landscape was one of brown fields and far reaching plains, until we reached the mountains, where the road takes you through a succession of lengthy tunnels – an amazing feat of engineering.
Once in Ioannina, I walked and I walked in the hot afternoon sun, looking for a place to stay. Eventually found Matsa Pension www.xenonas-matsa.gr where I am the only guest in one of four traditional studio apartments. In August, almost everyone heads to the islands. I knew this and that is why I am up here now in the north, doing my best to avoid crowds, heat and high prices. My thoughts are to stay for just 2 nights, enough time to rest a little and organise my next stop – Zagorohoria, a network of some 46 villages in the mountains north of Ioannina.
Tuesday, August 3rd 2010 at 9:37 am |
Hi Helen – its Tuesday 3rd Aug 9.14pm
Great to hear from you, thank you.
Sadly we attended the funeral of our brother in law today, what a lovely service and tribute to him he would have been so proud. He passed away the day after his birthday when he turned 57. Far too young Helen.
My apologies for lapsing with my replies, but as you know it has been a trying few weeks.
So pleased you are well out of Chios, mmmmm say no more hah! Not somewhere you will rush back to in a hurry.
You seem to be making some lovely friends along the way Helen, which is great.
Your next stop – Zagorohoria, sounds interesting with the 46 odd villages. How long will you stop there?
I find it absolutely amazing the number of different places to visit on the Greek Island. You will certainly be well travelled by the time you return to NZ, you will know Greece like the back of your hand. I guess this is the only way to travel if you want to settle there one day. At least you are having a good look at all possibilities. Are you finding that they are all much of a muchness or do you find each place is unique in its own way?
Anna’s fig bread sounds delicious. In fact all your meals you mention sound delicious. Not to mention the Wine.
An absolutely glorious day here in Wangavegas. Lovely warm day. However can’t say the same about Palmerston North where we went for the funeral, it was blowing a very cold wind and raining. I am so looking forward to Summer, definitely a summer person. 🙂
But then Palmy can be a tad windy to say the least.
Its all on for the Mayoral candidates to sell themselves to us. Some in the running are
Dot McKinnon, Annette Mains, Ray Stevens etc not to mention the usual ‘hopefuls’ Sadly Michael Laws is standing down.
Our main entrance way to Wanganui is coming along nicely now and you will notice a difference when you return here. Leads up to a large roundabout at Airport Rd area. All very flash. They will just have to chuck a bit of janola in the river to clean it. haha. Lovely river, such a shame its so dirty at times.
I didn’t get to our last meeting a couple of weeks ago, for obvious reasons, so nothing to report there.
Oh well think I will hit the hay. It’s been a long day Helen.
Safe travels my friend and thanks for sharing
Phyl x
Tuesday, August 3rd 2010 at 10:40 am |
Hello Helen of Trivlida! Glad to see you up and blogging again. We miss you a lot here on Lemnos where the temperature is on the 35 degree range today, with a strong breeze out of the north. Rusty is disconsolate, but Themis has reverted to best behaviour. A nice couple from Norway are occupying your room — which we will try to preserve for you just as you left it!
Now for Ann’s Almond-Fig Bread:
Mix together dry ingredients
2 cups flour
1/2 cup wheat germ
1 Tbsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 tsp cinnamon
1/2 cup sugar (more if you like it sweet)
Mix liquid ingredients
1 cup oil
1 cup buttermilk (which I make by adding 1 Tbsp vinegar to a cup of regular milk)
1 egg (optional)
Add
1 cup ground almonds
2 cups chopped black mission figs
Mix everything together in a bowl. Knead together for a minute or two, then form into a log shape. Bake on oiled baking pan in a hottish oven for 1 hour, more if you like it crusty.
People have raved about this recipe. Of course, it helps to have figs and almonds growing on the property, and the local Limnos flour is also extra-special — but I think it would also work quite wellback in NZ!