The Quiet and Peaceful Island of Agathonissi
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
View of St George beach from my balcony - Agathonissi
A return to the very busy Ouzeri/Fish Taverna Xiliomodi on my last night in Patmos for fresh grilled fish with patates tiganetes and a glass of ouzo. As tables were vacated, new patrons were waiting to immediately re-occupy them, such is the popularity of the establishment – certainly the finest I found in Skala. When I arrived back at Villa Zacharo Hotel, my new friends Poppy, Margarita, Jacob’s wife Rula and her mum invited me to join them where they sat outside enjoying the coolness of the evening. Before leaving Patmos yesterday, I met two French guys, both of whom command a similar level of understanding of the Greek language as I do, having spent a great deal of time here in Greece. One of them relayed an interesting story to me about his I-Pod – when they arrived on Patmos it was not working, however, after he visited the Cave of the Apocalypse with it in his possession, it worked! Jacob phoned ahead to Agathonissi and arranged a room for me here – I should look out for the German lady wearing a green cap who would be waiting for me on my arrival.
As Jacob drove me the short distance to the port, he relayed to me a very interesting analogy of the Greek people and their outlook on life – what is important to them and in what order. Firstly, their health. Secondly, to always enjoy life and to care about others and thirdly, money. I think this helps to understand why life here is so agreeable. A little wait before commencing the two hour ferry ride to Agathonissi via the island of Arki, however, the age old occupation of people watching can always be put into practice. The handsome port police (women too) in their uniforms and calf high laced boots – in general, a lot more travellers than I have seen up until now and on a very hot, windy day.
Met in Agathonissi by Rena and we walked the short distance to my room above Cafe Yetousa – right on the lovely, lovely beach at St George, the village and only port on this beautiful island which is such a quiet and peaceful place. Next door at Taverna Glaros, where the goat, cheese and vegetables are all locally produced and organic, I have been enjoying my lunches and dinner. With the beach on my doorstep, it has also been an opportunity to work a little on the suntan and enjoy cooling off in the clear, blue waters. A fantastic island for relaxing holidays but probably not somewhere I would choose to permanently live.
Rena and her Greek husband Vangelis are raising four kid goats, two sets of twins who lost their mothers and Rena has just set off with their 13 year old daughter Katerina and a large container of milk to feed them. Last evening I was speaking with Ingrid and Thomas, a Swedish couple from Stockholm who told me all the goat fences on the island make it difficult to follow paths (walking is the only way of getting around if you do not have wheels) and so it helped prepare me for my walk to Megalo Horio and Catholiko and return this morning.
Refugees arriving on Agathonissi from Turkey at night under the cover of darkness continues, however, I understand the problem is now not as great as it was during the past couple of years when literally thousands of men, women and children were coming ashore and creating a humanitarian dilemma. Often not having eaten for days and in need of food and dry clothing, they destroy their boats to prevent the authorities here from sending them back. These migration flows are directed by smugglers and corrupt Turkish officials. The EU are now sending people to work the border patrols and last night I watched as a patrol boat left port with the local port police and two men dressed in white tee shirts, navy blue pants and jackets. Today they are all back in St George and I wonder if their mission was successful.
Next week from 19-25 July the International Film Festival of Patmos will take place, something I missed out on by just a few days. Never mind, tomorrow I move on yet again, this time to the island of Samos.