Houston Cafe and more – Patmos
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
"Houston Cafe" - The Square, Skala, Patmos
In July 2009, there appeared an article in ‘World of Interiors’ magazine about Houston Cafe, located in the square – Skala, Patmos. A shrine to the American dream, it was opened by a Greek man who made his fortune in Texas and returned to his homeland to share his success. After his passing, Houston Cafe was run by two sisters and it was my sister Janet who enlightened me about this Cafe before I left New Zealand. In fact, we had even spoken of meeting up here if it had been at all possible.
On Friday evening I was delighted to find Houston Cafe open and quietly walked inside to ask the lady in black for her permission to take some photographs. Should you be fortunate enough to visit Houston Cafe, do not expect a friendly welcome. Initially there was no reply, however, eventually she agreed, provided she was not in the images – okay, no problem. I hurriedly pointed my camera in every possible direction and it was not very long before I was politely told – no more. Never mind, I did my best to explain that I especially wanted the photographs to show my sister in New Zealand.
I then ordered an ouzo (incredibly all drinks cost only 1 Euro). No frills – a glass of tap water and a glass of ouzo without ice! Sitting at an outside table, I spoke with another solo patron who told me she had been visiting Houston Cafe for many years. She had known the original owner and the current owner’s sister Katina who passed away she said 2002-3 – apparently, Katina was very friendly. This patron described our lady in black as ‘strict’ – perhaps ‘severe’ would be more like it. Anyway, her opening hours seem somewhat limited but hopefully I will get to enjoy another ouzo or two there before I leave Patmos. Finished the evening off at Restaurant Panteli where a shrewd dog somehow knew I was enjoying a chop, the bone from which he got to take away and relish.
Yesterday I took the bus once again up to Chora where I visited the Holy Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi before going to Simandiri Mansion nearby. Built in 1625 for a Sea Captain, the Mansion is a treasure trove of furniture, furnishings and objects from yesteryear, giving one some insight into how life was way back then. It is looked after and run by one lady who charges 3 Euro entrance fee and she will probably succeed in having you buy something from the display of all that she has made. From there I went on to walk the Old Path from Chora to the Nunnery “Evangelismos” and return to Chora – then bus back to Skala.
My host Jacob at Villa Zacharo Hotel had kindly offered to take me at 1830 hours to Chora for the official dedication of the restored three windmills – made possible by a Swiss “Friend of Patmos”. In our company were Margarita, a sister to Jacob’s wife’s mother who lives in America and her daughter Poppy who lives in Finland. Following a lengthy dedication ceremony at the school next door, during which time it was almost impossible to hear anything above the conversation of the large crowd gathered, everyone proceeded up to the windmills to witness their first official operation and then returned to the school, where a table was waiting, traditional dancers were ready and celebrations were under way. A tremendous achievement made possible as I understand by one Swiss man. We returned to Skala and I walked to the port to enjoy a light dinner at Restaurant Ostria.
Today I visited the village of Grikos and Petra Kalikatsou – the peculiar and imposing stone that seems to come out of the sea. Tradition holds that it was a place of hermitage – there are handmade stairs and it has it’s own drainage system and water reservoir which are still functional today. I then spent quiet time at the beach and enjoyed lunch at Restaurant Flisvos before catching the 1400 hours bus back to Skala. This evening I discovered Ouzeri/Fish Restaurant Chiliomodi just down the road from Villa Zacharo Hotel. Feasted on Garides Tiganetes (deep fried shrimps) – with a glass of ouzo and excellent Greek music. I am now replete and back in the hotel as the World Cup 2010 Final plays out.