Journey to and first day in Astypalea
By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized |
Castle of Chora, Chora, Astypalea
Up early and expecting to partake of breakfast before I left Hotel Romantzo but alas, not enough time from when service began and I needed to make my way down to the port. Blue Star Ferries ‘Diagoras’ arrived and departed on time – a more upmarket vessel than those of Anek Lines that I have travelled on with food and drink prices to match. Settled for a Tiropita (Greek cheese pie) and a bottle of water.
First stop, the island of Kos and secondly, Kalymnos which I plan to travel back to on Thursday. Fragiskos from Hotel Paradissos in Pera Yialos was awaiting me at the Port as arranged – just as well as the ferries now dock at a newer Port some kilometres from Pera Yialos, Chora and Livadi.
Astypalea is the most western and the most remote of the Dodekanese Islands – sometimes referred to as the butterfly island due to it’s shape, joined by a strip of land in the middle just 100m wide. It’s capital Chora is built high on a peninsula with Pera Yialos in the bay on one side and Livadi on the other. At the top of the hill is the imposing 13th Century Venetian Castle of Chora, also known as the Querini Castle after the Querini family who erected the Kastro and ruled the island from 1207 – 1522. Until well into the 20th Century over 300 people lived inside the Kastro, however, depopulation and a severe earthquake in 1956 combined to leave only a desolate shell today, notwithstanding the two churches Evangelistria and Agios Giorgos which are within the castle walls. A row of eight windmills run across the top of the peninsula by the Square.
Although this mountainous island belongs to the Dodekanese, it is more like the Cycladic islands in appearance, with the traditional white and blue colours of the houses and wooden balconies. Anxious to see what I could see I went walking soon after my early afternoon arrival, however, it proved to be far too hot in the day so I took refuge at a Taverna by the beach, had a Greek salad, bread and a beer before retiring for the remainder of the afternoon. Ventured out once again around 1800 hours, walking up to Chora and the Castle, the way being not well sign posted but eventually I was there. Had the site to myself until a group of Italian men arrived just as I was about to leave and obligingly offered to take my photograph at the entrance. Sat over an ouzo (always served with nibbles) for a good couple of hours at a cafe in the Square of Chora – a relatively quiet place other than the sound of children playing in and around the pedestrian only road.
Walked back down the hill to have a light dinner before returning to my hotel around 2300 hours, satisfied with my first day’s experience of this beautiful island.