A quiet day in Mandraki, Nisyros

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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Mandraki, Nisyros

Awoke this morning to a somewhat cloudy and cooler day which gives some relief – even a light shower around midday which took everyone by surprise.  Walking in the town, I noticed a memorial to Yanni Katsimatidis, killed in the terrorist attack in New York on 11 September 2001.  I can only assume he was from one of the island’s many families who have immigrated to America over the years, a number of others have made Australia their home. 

Revisited the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani built around 1400 AD.  As in most churches and monasteries in Greece, it is forbidden to take photographs, however, I managed one in the entrance to the Katholikon, the Monastery’s central church and another looking out a window as I descended the stairway into the church.  The Monastery sits atop a hill shared by the Spiliani Fortress, thought to have been built by the Knights of the Order of St John (1315).  The small Historical Museum of Nisyros can be found on the way back down, opening from 1100 – 1400 and 1900 – 2100 hours daily with an entrance fee of 1 Euro. 

Far more impressive and a must visit is The Archaeological Museum of Nisyros situated in the center of the town of Mandraki.  Exhibits cover the entire course of the island’s history down to the post-Byzantine period.  On the lower level in the last room of the Museum, plates from a 19th century ship-wreck in the vicinity of Nisyros are presented.  You can also view a short film referring to the excavation and the restoration of the acropolis fortification wall on Paleokastro.  Generally I am not a great fan of museums, however, I enjoyed this one immensely.  Once again, the taking of photographs is forbidden. 

Returned to Nostos Cafe for lunch.  I have still to try two local traditional products – Soumada, a non-alcoholic almond flavoured drink and Kanellada, a non-alcoholic cinnamon flavoured drink. 

I so easily become a creature of habit when I discover a Taverna that I like – tonight I was back at Kalikatsos for dinner, this time Soupies Krasates (cuttlefish in wine) served with rice and yes, my 1/4 litre red wine and bread.  There they serve you a wee plate of olives, pickled caper leaves and slices of cucumber to nibble on with the bread as you await your main meal and tonight Maria brought me a chocolate dessert to finish.  On my walk back I stopped to speak with a lady feeding cats and praised her for her kindness.  She was Greek, however, from Australia, here in Nisyros to oversee the renovations to the house that was once her mother’s home.  Said she would never dream of selling the house at any price which is how it always used to be and still seems to be here on Nisyros.

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