Ancient Acropolis of Nisyros

By Helen Grubner. Filed in Uncategorized  |  
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Entrance to Ancient Acropolis of Nisyros

Still recovering from yesterday’s paradisaical wanderings, I have been obliged to spend today in Mandraki and places nearby.  Early this morning the town was all but deserted – that would change when the boats of day trippers, mainly from the island of Kos, arrived to visit the volcano.  Usually they spend the few extra hours they have here at local sites and attractions, with taverna owners hoping some of the tourists will want to eat at their establishments. After breakfast at Cafe Nostos, I decided to take the century old trail up to the Paleokastro or as it is also known, the Ancient Acropolis of Nisyros.  Other than a groundsman, I had the entire site to myself.  With a history dating back 2600 years to 400 – 500 BC, it’s remains include Cyclopean walls that were made from massive blocks carved from the volcanic rock of the island.  It would have been almost impossible for the enemy to gain entry anywhere in the castle and the views from the hilltop are outstanding.  Although the terrain is rocky, the volcanic soil is fertile and there is a certain lushness and greenness to the land, even now with summer fast approaching.  

Returning to Mandraki town, it crossed my mind to return to the Monastery of Panagia Spiliani, which was closed the other day.  Spoke with a family returning from there who told me something like 100 people had just ascended (no doubt day trippers off boats) so thought I would give it a miss and try again tomorrow.  I am free and I have more time.  

Came 1700 hours and unlike all you Kiwis back home, I had the luxury of watching live, at a respectable hour, the Paraguay versus New Zealand game in the World Cup 2010.  Viewed the first half here at Hotel Romantzo then wandered on down to a Cafe, with an ouzo for courage, to watch the second half on the bigger screen.  Alas, all the Greek customers were more interested in the Italian versus Slovakia game and the Italians made their departure in the same way as our All Whites.  I’m not really a soccer fan, however, always patriotic when it comes to my country.   

Decided to revisit Taverna Kalikatsos, no big waves to swamp us tonight.  Avoided sitting at a table where I thought I saw a scary looking spider wrapped around a table leg – when closely viewed I realised it was, in fact, a crab.  The clientele at Kalikatsos seem to be mainly Italians and intrepid travellers like me.  Andrea, the Italian waiter, fond of rolling a smoke and drinking his white wine as he serves, assists three very capable women – one who works only in the kitchen and two others who move amicably from table to food preparation.  I cannot help but feel for the older Greek couple with a Taverna next door who have had no customers on either of the nights when I have been at Kalikatsos.  

I ordered the Couscous with Vegetables and Haloumi (a traditional Cypriot cheese made from a mixture of goat and sheep milk and quite salty) with, of course, my standard 1/4 litre of red wine and bread.  As the sun set behind clouds and other diners were just arriving, I was ready to call it a day, other than having my website to update on my return to the hotel.

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