Itisallgreek2me

Monday, 13 June 2022… Running a little behind schedule, my ferry reached Tilos around 04.00 hours this morning. As arranged, Markos from George Apartments was waiting to welcome me at the Port in Livadia and walk me to my room… home until Friday. With a lovely terrace, overlooking bougainvillea and the sea and an exemplary host… I’m very happy here.

To quote Maria Kamma, Mayor of Tilos (population less than 1,000)… the island is the first “Green Island” in the Mediterranean region and is self sufficient with fully renewable electricity, solar power, wind turbines and a battery farm. You’re more likely to run into friendly partridges, rare orchids and endangered eagles than people as you trek around Tilos’ 54km of walking trails.

Thanks to it’s Just Go Zero programme, at 80%, Tilos has the highest rate of recycling in the world. Bins are provided to separate recyclable items from organic waste… non recyclables being placed in a separate container.

With very little sleep during the past 24 hours, I chose to relax and chill for most of the day, although I did venture out early afternoon for a walk through the village and around the bay. Overall, the cats here on Tilos look pretty healthy. I came across a good samaritan feeding some of the local moggies. He told me in the winter time when most of the restaurants are closed, there can be 25-30 cats that come to be fed.

In the evening, walked back around the bay to Armenon Restaurant. A little pricey, however, the waterside location and delicious food somehow compensated. Noticed a couple of cool, funky bars… I was tempted but no, I need sleep. 22.00 hours and it’s still 25°C… thank goodness for air-conditioning. Tomorrow I have things to do.

Throughout Greece there are thousands of feral cats… much better looked after now than in the past. What was particularly noticeable on Astypalea, was the number of cats eartipped. Eartipping, performed while the cat is already under anesthesia, is an effective and universally accepted method to identify a spayed or neutered and vaccinated feral cat. It is the removal of the distal one-quarter of a cat’s left ear. 🐱🐈‍⬛🐈🐾❤

Sunday, 12 June 2022… Returned last night to eat again at Maistrali Restaurant… a no brainer really. One of my favourite Greek dishes… Yemistá (stuffed tomatoes and capsicum) and naturally, a half kilo of white wine.

This morning checked out of my room at Gyrouli Studios just before midday… slow and steady does it, with my luggage down all the steps, deposited at Maistrali to pick up much later before catching the ferry Blue Star Chios, via Kalymnos, Kos and Nisyros to Tilos at 20.45 hours, ETA 03.30 hours Monday.

Enjoyed a Club Sandwich with Greek coffee ☕ at Portokali cafe on the waters edge, with sunbeds on the beach. Generally in Greece when you order food and or a drink at an establishment, it’s free to use the sunbeds, however, not here. Since I’m alone the charge will be only E4.50. No thanks, I’ll find somewhere under the tamarisk trees.

Never made it to the tamarisk trees. As often happens, a new face comes along and today it was Mel… from Melbourne, whose company I would share until it was time for me to leave Astypalea. Entered the local mini market looking for snacks to sustain me on my journey. Mel spoke to me and offered to buy me a drink. Being fellow antipodeans, we had much in common, although we didn’t agree on everything.

Mel told me about her interest in a house between Pera Gialos and Chora that has been for sale for 3 years, asking price E200K. Nevermind that financially it is beyond her reach, we set off to walk up the hill to view it and to my surprise, it is located a stone’s throw from where I stayed. Location, location, location, however, I suspect it is overpriced and will need at least another E100K spent on it. We spoke with Trina, a Norwegian woman who owns the property nextdoor. Trina spends 6 months of the year there, her property and garden are amazing.

On our way back down to Maistrali, Mel wanted to show me a beautiful wrought-iron door… the design strongly indicating there is a history attached. So I struck up a conversation with Angelika and her husband Ilias nearby, who were able to tell us all about it. Made by a family member on Kalymnos, Angelika was extremely proud to show us a photograph of the boat depicted on the door… Ilias had been it’s Captain for 40 years.

Returned to Pera Gialos with Mel who joined me for an early dinner at Maistrali… nice to have someone with whom to share a meal. Farewelled Dimitris, Efrosini and their waiting staff, then Mel waved me off at the Port.

Saturday, 11 June 2022… Astypalea is the most western and the most remote of the Dodecanese islands… sometimes referred to as the butterfly island due to it’s shape… joined by a strip of land in the middle just 100m wide. It’s capital Chora is built high on a peninsular with Pera Gialos in the bay on one side and Livadi on the other.

At the top of the hill is the imposing 13th Century Venetian Castle of Chora, also known as the Querini Castle after the Querini family who erected the Kastro and ruled the island from 1207-1522. Until well into the 20th Century over 300 people lived inside the Kastro, however, depopulation and a severe earthquake in 1956 combined to leave only a desolate shell today, notwithstanding the two churches Evangelistria and Agios Geórgios which are within the Castle walls.

A row of eight windmills run across the top of the peninsular by the Square. Although this mountainous island belongs to the Dodecanese, it is more like the Cycladic Islands in appearance, with the traditional white and blue colours of the houses (but not always) and wooden balconies.

As I mentioned in my last Blog, I first visited Astypalea in 2010. As I walked about the island today… to Livadi beach, back up to Chora, the Castle and all through the streets and alleyways, I’m happy to say, very little has changed in 12 years.

Thursday, 9 June 2022… Found myself out on the terrace at 06.00 hours or thereabouts to witness the sunrise 🌅 Later a walk up those god forsaken 127 steps to visit the bakery and purchase breakfast goodies for Johanna, Georgios and I.

Stunningly beautiful day, my last full day on Anafi, for now anyway. Established there was a bus (actually a minivan) going to Kleisidi beach at 11.30 hours, returning at 17.15 hours. It was at the stop that I met Josephina from Holland. A lady after my own heart… fearless and determined. Anafi is one of those islands where everyone converses with everyone. Josephina is a super lovely lady, her acquaintance with Greece beginning one year before mine in 1972.

3 hours on Kleisidi beach with the trees for shade when needed, dips in the Aegean when necessary and strolls along the waterline, chatting to whoever came along… Johanna, Georgios and Josephina included. Lunched again at Margarita’s… this time Zucchini Stuffed with Rice and Vegetables… delicious!

Friday, 10 June 2022… early night, alarm set for 03.30 hours. With Johanna and Geórgios, taxi to the Port at 04.15 hours, ferry Blue Star Patmos taking us away from Anafi at 04.50 hours… saying farewell to my newly found friends on arrival at Santorini, from where they would catch a flight later heading home to Northern Greece.

Next stop Ios, then Naxos… arriving 09.10 hours. Near the Port, they wanted E7 to store my trolley case for a couple of hours, however, on principle, I walked to Melímilon for breakfast with my luggage and there, they happily allowed me to leave not only my trolley case, but also my day pack. The family owners of Melímilon started out with a homemade marmalade store. In a quiet garden setting behind the Town Hall, you will find a wide ranging menu of food made with love… well worth the walk from the Port.

Set forth to visit the Portara (Temple of Apollo), before exploring the alleyways beneath the Venetian Castle (Kastro). Retrieved my luggage, leaving Naxos on the ferry Blue Star Naxos at 12.35 hours bound for Astypalea via Donoussa and Amorgos, arriving 17.20 hours.

From the Port of Pera Gialos, I knew I had to make a fairly challenging uphill walk to find my room at Gyrouli Studios, not helped at all by the fact that, at the Port, one wheel of my trolley case became entangled in discarded pieces of fishing net. Eventually made it to my lodgings for 2 nights… a location with amazing views, where I was welcomed by my namesake Eléni.

After settling in and showering, I walked up to Chora… stunningly beautiful with it’s Venetian Castle and traditional Windmills. I should mention, this is not my first time on Astypalea. I have very fond memories from a visit in 2010.

My research indicated Agoni Grammi was the best place to eat in Chora. I found it easily enough, however, they were busy and could not offer a table for one so I moved on to a nearby Restaurant. There I was offered a table but gave up waiting to be served .

During my previous visit to Astypalea, I spent time at Maistrali Restaurant in Pera Gialos and got to know the owners and one or two of their regular visitors. It seemed opportune for me to walk down goodness knows how many steps and reintroduce myself to Dimitris and his wife Efrosini… I even had photographs to share. They remembered me and after enjoying a Greek Salad with Patates Tiganetes and a half kilo of wine, the young waiter arrived with a 1/4 kilo of wine on the house for me, for which I thanked him, however, I also asked the question… how will I navigate the steps tonight?

It has been a long day and an interesting evening.

Wednesday, 8 June 2022… took my time getting out of bed this morning. Made my coffee and sat out on the terrace to enjoy breakfast… Milópita (apple pie) purchased yesterday from the local bakery and delicious! The tiniest wee black and white mama kitty (I’m told she has 5 kittens) was glad to receive her share.

Walked the path down to the Port in Agios Nikolaos bay then over to Kleisidi, the closest beach to Chora. Sandy, with trees for shade and a small settlement… a truly beautiful spot for swimming in the warm Aegean Sea, strolling on the beach and sunbathing.

Eventually moved on to Margarita’s Cafe/Restaurant for lunch… Saláta Anafi – flavoursome and tasty and a Mythos beer. Overlooking the beach and out to the three islands opposite… Makra, Ftena and Pachia. In the future, given the opportunity to return to Anafi, I think I would be very happy to book a room somewhere here at Kleisidi beach for an extended stay.

I was thinking there could be a bus from Kleisidi to Chora at 17.15 hours, however, no one could confirm so I walked back to the Port. In the searing heat of the day, only crazies like me are out and about but I thought I might be able to hitch a ride. It wasn’t too long before a taxi arrived… I was more than happy to give him a return fare of E5 to Chora.

Tuesday, 7 June 2022… So I’m staying in the picture perfect village of Chora. Built on the ruins of a Venetian Castle, many of the whitewashed houses have domed roofs and the alleyways are paved with stones. If any of you have walked through the scenic neighbourhood of “Anafiotika” at the base of the Acropolis, Chora is the image that back in 1860-1870, inspired the local craftsmen to leave their island home in the Cyclades to build “Anafiotika” in Athens.

Ended my day yesterday enjoying a meal at To Steki, a traditional Greek restaurant in Chora. By now all my regular followers will know, when I eat out in Greece, it is compulsory for me to feed the local moggies. Last night it was two grey and whites who got to share my Makaronia me Saltsa (spaghetti with tomato sauce).

Began today with an early morning walk… 127 steps just to get me to the first street every time I go out! Up and up to To Kastro, the Venetian Castle ruins… throughout Antiquity, used as an observatory to the Cretan Sea. Today there sits the little Church of Agios Georgios.

At noon, caught the bus to the Monastery of Zoodochos Pighi, east of Chora. Already wearing a top covering my shoulders, I wrapped my sarong around me to cover my legs, thereby observing entry requirements for females. The tiniest wee black cat followed me everywhere and I took that to be a good omen.

There is a path from the Monastery of Zoodochos Pighi that takes you up the Rock of Kalamos to the Monastery of Kalamiotissa on top. Kalamos is the second highest monolithic limestone after Gibraltar. I would love to make the walk up, however, I have read that it is for experienced climbers, which I’m not.

So I walked the monopati (trail) down to Agioi Anargyroi beach… deserted but for one other solo female and the lovely Mats and Birgitta from Sweden. I started chatting with Birgitta whilst strolling on the beach… their love affair with Greece is as strong as mine. I had been expecting to wait for the bus returning to Chora around 18.00 hours, however, as Mats and Birgitta were leaving the beach mid afternoon, they offered me a lift back to Chora… really appreciated. 😊

Sunday, 5 June 2022… 11.00 hours, checked out. What to do… ferry Blue Star Naxos not due until 20.00 hours. Walked to To Kyma… all day cafe-bar with amazing views of the Port and Ammos beach. Ordered Greek Yoghurt with cranberries, strawberries, granola and peanut butter, together with an Iced Tea E10.50 (NZ$17). Expensive, however, a stunningly beautiful place to pass a couple of hours.

Not feeling up to very much, found a bench seat by Ammos beach, under tamarisk trees and lay down for the afternoon, before returning to Melissa Chora… an early dinner of Moussaka in their downstairs restaurant. Also filled the tummy of the cutest wee kitty who then had the time of his life playing with the straps on my backpack.

A somewhat noisy trip to Naxos, arriving 22.10 hours. Found somewhere to sit quietly while I waited for the ferry Blue Star Patmos, departing 00.15 hours for the tiny island of Anafi, arriving 04.30 hours. A bus costing E2 per passenger takes anyone who wants to go from the Port up to Chora and the most obliging of drivers will drop you near your accommodation. Together with a lovely Greek couple… Ioánna and Geórgios, we were the last to be dropped off.

During an earlier exchange of messages with my hosts Pópi and Matthaíos at Ostria, it was established that my room was occupied and wouldn’t be available until after 12 noon, however, I could leave my luggage there on arrival. Envisaged myself sleeping rough somewhere for a few hours. But no, a wonderful example of FILOXENÍA… Greek hospitality was about to take place. The bus driver phoned our hosts who walked to meet us. Arriving at Ostria just as the sun was rising, they made up a bed for me in their home where I was able to have a good 4 hours much neeeded rest.

Ventured out to find Argo Café for breakfast while I waited for my room to be ready. Extremely hot day. I haven’t seen very much of Anafi yet, however, already I know it’s my kind of Greek island. I’m here for 4 nights so more Blogs to follow.

Thursday, 2 June 2022… after spending 5 nights on Sifnos, it was time to move on to Koufonissia. Located east of Naxos, one of a sub-group of islands known as The Small Cyclades… the other three main islands being Schinoussa, Irakleia and Donoussa.

Another Spanakopita (spinach pie) shamelessly devoured whilst I sat at the Port awaiting the arrival of Seajet 2… my ticket for the scheduled 3 hours 40 minutes journey costing E99.70 (NZ$165 approx.).

Stopping en route at Paros, Mykonos and Naxos, it was a very comfortable journey on a high speed vessel… rather like flying, only with sea turbulence in the day’s meltemi wind.

Arrival in Koufonissia was a little late, I’m guessing due to the onslaught of passengers boarding in Paros and heading for the touristy, expensive island of Mykonos. Spent a quiet afternoon in my room at Melissa Chora, catching up on Blogs and Mail.

Ventured out late afternoon to find Prasinou Tours to pickup the boat tickets for my day trip Friday to the even smaller island of Schinoussa (separate Blog). This is the first time I have visited Koufonissia, although over the years, I have been aboard ferries passing by.

Dined downstairs at Melissa Taverna, sharing my Kotópolou stó foúrno (chicken cooked in the oven) with the local moggies before returning, exhausted, for a very early night.

Saturday, 4 June 2022… began my day with breakfast at Opsianos Cafe (omelet with veges and a double Greek coffee) before setting off to walk the 3.5km rocky seaside dirt track from Chora to Pori beach.

The day was hot and windy… the latter a godsend really, the skies a little murky… not the best for photography but nevermind. The first beach you come to is Finika, then Fanos, Italida (nudism friendly, the most beautiful I thought but not for this reason), Alejandra and then Pori (also nudism friendly). There are amazing coves and The Eye of the Devil to see on your way, as you continue to be awestruck by the crystal clear aquamarine waters.

Would I like to return to the beautiful, enchanting Koufonissia… I don’t think so as for me it has long since lost it’s innocence. However, I would very much like to return to Schinoussa and perhaps visit Irakleia and Donoussa too one day.

Friday 3 June… early morning stroll to the Port to catch the Express Skopelitis ferry at 08.20 hours from Koufonissia to Schinoussa, returning at 16.00 hours, 35 minutes each way. E8.20 return ((NZ$13.50).

Unlike Koufonissia, Schinoussa remains relatively undiscovered… quiet and peaceful with many properties showing signs of deferred maintenance. Walked up to Chora to find Xara Café (in my research notes). I wasn’t disappointed with my brunch of Double Greek Coffee and a Club Sandwich… happily shared with 4 grateful moggies.

Then set off to make the 30 minute walk to Psili Ammos beach. Arrived to find one nude couple enjoying their freedom. They left the beach to be replaced by another couple with similar open minds so I thought 🤔 why not… swimming and sunbathing in my birthday suit, it’s been a long time since I last experienced that level of freedom.

Soon after arriving back in Chora, I met the most beautiful elderly Greek woman… Margarita – out and about with her carer. Margarita couldn’t remember her age, however, according to the carer, Margarita is 88. After sharing the most wonderful conversation from our hearts 💕 I walked to the Church of Panagia Akathi (Protector of the Island). Planned to stop at Beer-aki (also in my research notes) nextdoor, but it was closed until October so happily returned to Xara Café for a 0.5L, followed by a smaller handle of well-earned draught Alpha beer.

I hope one day to return to Schinoussa… a place which still maintains an innocence, seldom found in today’s world.

A somewhat more civilized start on Wednesday, catching the 10.00 hours bus to Apollonia, where I returned to Tselementes Kafeneio-Ouzeri for breakfast… toasted sandwich with a double Greek coffee.

Ready, set, go, or so I thought. Waited for a bus scheduled to leave Artemonas at 11.30 hours to take me to the small fishing village of Faros. Eventually I gave up waiting, making the crazy decision to walk down to the Monastery of Chrisopigí, my main place of interest for the day.

Left the road by the Monastery of Vrysi and followed a trail which took me to a place somewhere below Agios Andreas. There I met a lovely old man with his donkey and dog. When I told him I wanted to get to the Monastery of Chrisopigí, he sent me along a different trail, however, that took me back to a point just shy of the Monastery of Vrysi. There a chance meeting with two feisty German women turned my day around.

Angeliki (77) and her friend Ute (85) are staying in Chrisopigí, a place they have been visiting for many years. At one time, Ute and her husband lived in Apollonia and everyday they would walk down to Chrisopigí. On this occasion they had taken the bus to Apollonia and were reliving old times, walking the old monopati (trail). So we became a threesome with Angeliki guiding the way, eventually arriving at Chrisopigí Taverna by Apokofto beach, 3 hours after I had set off from Apollonia. The least I could do was shout Angeliki and Ute a couple of Mythos beers and of course, one for me. I also tried the local Almirekia… salad greens that grow near the sea, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice. Exactly what the doctor ordered!

Before leaving for a swim and siesta, Angeliki and Ute invited me to visit them at their home around 18.00 hours… should I decide to wait around for the evening Panagiri (celebrations) at the Monastery of Chrisopigí. I went for a swim at Apokofto beach and walked on to visit the Monastery, before making the decision to take the coastal trail to Faros, arriving in time for the last bus to Apollonia at 17.15 hours.

Once back in Apollonia, I had only to wait for the 18.00 hours bus to Kamares which eventually arrived 45 minutes late! Picked up a Gyros takeaway for dinner to eat out in my courtyard. Three of the local moggies followed me so, of course, I shared.

Thursday means moving on to the very small island of Koufonissia but I will take with me, many wonderful memories of my time on Sifnos.