Itisallgreek2me

Saturday, 25 June 2022… A pattern seems to be emerging as once again, Curly and Mandy turned up last night at Apostolis Cafe Bar. Also Tony and Lynn, two more regular visitors to Chalki, however, they were heading home today.

Such a beautiful day … not quite so hot and humid and a lovely welcoming breeze. Decided to walk up to the Windmills above Ftenagia beach… Pontamos beach, the Castle and Trachea all in view from somewhere along the way. A slight mishap on the rocks has left me with a black and bruised, rather sore thumb… I really should be more careful.

Ended my walk at Ftenagia beach and after having a yummy Special Omelette for brunch there, spent the afternoon lounging in the sun and swimming in the gorgeous Aegean Sea. I think I must be a heliophile… someone who enjoys sunny weather, needing summer all year round.

Sunday, 26 June 2022… Up until now, the quietest day of my travels. Left my room around 09.00 hours for a wee stroll. Stopped at Dimitris Bakery for breakfast, just missing the first boat of the day to Kania beach, however, Curly and Mandy made it in time and saved me a sunbed by them on the water’s edge under the trees. Only left there to go and have lunch in the excellent on-site restaurant, returning on the 17.00 hours boat.

For the second night in a row I’m not venturing out. After tomorrow I’ll be upping the pace again… just making sure my batteries are fully recharged.

Thursday, 23 June 2022… My quiet ouzo with meze last night at Apostolis Cafe Bar snowballed into a late one, following the arrival of Curly and Mandy. Enjoying their company until 01.00 hours and left wondering… how did it get so late so soon!

Arranged to meet up with Curly and Mandy again this morning, catching the 10.00 hours Giannis Express to Kania, a small pebbled beach with crystal clear waters. Mandy is following in the footsteps of her dad and late mum who are well remembered on the island, including by the delightful Michalis. Kapitánios on the boat, he collects everyone’s E5 and issues tickets for the return journey, when he serves up raki to those who wish to imbibe.

Staked our claim on three sunbeds and umbrella located right on the beach and somewhat separated from others. These are provided free when you have lunch at the restaurant which has a very good reputation for serving fresh fish and seafood. Although I only had a Greek Salad and Fries today, both were delicious. It’s been a day of relaxation in a quiet and peaceful location.

Friday, 24 June 2022… I have to say I’m rather enjoying the slower pace this week. At 09.30 hours, met up with Curly and Mandy down at the harbour. While they had their morning coffee and orange juice, I watched the local priest smoking and playing backgammon.

A short walk along a rocky path led us to Ftenagia, another very clean pebble beach with crystal clear turquoise water. Sunbeds there cost E3 per person to hire… well worth paying to be comfortable in such a relaxed, peaceful and quiet place. Once again, a top rate restaurant on-site for lunch.

Tonight ventured out around 21.00 hours… still very early by Greek standards. Managed a few night shots before returning to Apostolis Cafe Bar for an ouzo with meze… maybe one, maybe two!

Tuesday, 21 June 2022… Up and out the door before 07.00 hours to walk to the Port. Managed a few more photos on the way… the Old Town pretty much still sleeping. Feeling somewhat relieved to be leaving cosmopolitan Rhodes, I boarded the ferry Dodekanisos Pride early for the 1 hour 15 minute ride to Chalki, the smallest of the Dodecanese islands.

Arriving at Nimborios (also known as Emporios) at 09.15 hours, made the short, albeit uphill walk to my lodgings Kleanthe, to be met by Ioanna. A beautiful traditional house with 3 studio apartments, it feels very much like a haven of peace and a natural remedy for anxiety.

Around midday, made the short walk to Pontamos… an organized beach, however, with space to put your towel down on the sand if like me, you’re not interested in paying E8 for a sunbed and umbrella. Evening stroll around the Port then a Taverna meal I’d rather forget… three local moggies happy to be beneficiaries of my unwanted food.

Wednesday, 22 June 2022… Day 2 on Chalki began with a walk down to Dimitris Bakery to buy mia milópita (one apple pie) for breakfast, returning briefly to my room before setting off to walk to Palió Chorió (old village). A mostly deserted Medieval settlement from where a path leads up to the top of the hill, dominated by the remains of the Castle of the Knight’s. Inside the Kastro is the deserted church of Agios Nicholaos with 15-17th century murals. However, with the door securely locked there was no chance of seeing those so had to content myself with the panoramic views. On my way back down the hill, took a side path to see the rock-cut benches inscribed (of Zeus of Hekate) interpreted as thrones or alters and dated to the Hellenistic period.

The heat I can cope with, plus there has been quite a nice breeze the past 2-3 days, however, I don’t do flies and on my walk today they seldom left me alone… really bothersome. I’m guessing the rubbish tip along the way may have much to do with the problem.

Arriving back as far as Pontamos beach around midday, enjoyed Yemistá (stuffed tomato and capsicum) for lunch with a large beer at Nick’s Taverna. Got chatting to Curly and Mandy, a couple from Cornwall… two more people who I hope will become inspired from following my intrepid travels. Had a quick swim then home for a siesta and Blogging time.

Now just on dusk and I’m sitting down at Apostolis Cafe Bar in the harbour with an ouzo and meze… another beautiful day will soon be over.

Monday, 20 June 2022… Somewhat sad this morning to leave the comfort of Grandma’s House on Symi. Quite a long walk to the Port to catch Hellenic Seaways ferry Ariadne at 10.10 hours for Rhodes, a mere 1 hour 10 minutes away. Another decent walk to Domus Hotel on Platonos, just off the main shopping street of Sokratous. Cheap and cheerful is all that is needed for a one night stay while waiting for my ferry to Chalki, however, it’s always wise to expect the unexpected!

Arrived to a closed door bearing a note to call on arrival. Meantime, a couple from Australia, together with a relative who lives locally turned up… they also had a booking. A phone call was made and very soon the door opened and there was Michalis. Priceless really… the pursuing minutes would have made an excellent script for Fawlty Towers. We were not expecting to be met by such an interesting character.

The Old Town of Rhodes, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the oldest inhabited medieval city in Europe with up to 6,000 people still living and working within it’s walls. Getting “lost” here is not a defeat… it’s an opportunity. I managed to clock up almost 10km today exploring the streets and alleyways but still missed out on seeing the Palace of the Grand Master, nevermind that I was close by, however, on the wrong side of the city wall.

Eventually I needed to sit down, order a cold beer and eat something. That done, I called it a day, retiring early. All a little too touristy out there for my liking, besides, tomorrow will be another early start for me.

Sunday, 19 June 2022… Today on Symi, I walked the Kali Strata… a fairly intense hill climb up a wide path that involves around 500 stone steps with landings. Technically it is a road that stretches between the Port (Gialos) and the Village (Chorio). The original intent was to give the wealthy population on the island a chance to walk home in a meandering and pleasant environment. Boasting incredible views and scenery, neoclassical mansions, restored and in ruins and a magnificent view from the churches at the top of the hill.

Part way on my journey uphill, I met Pat and Julia coming down the steps and we sat on a bench seat having a wonderful long chat. They will now follow my travels and no doubt be inspired to return to Greece in the future.

You know the saying “a picture is worth a thousand words”. Enjoy all the Images to follow and perhaps you may like to try spotting the little sign on a door “I am already disturbed, please come in” and the fig tree in the derelict house growing out of the windows and doors.

My stay here in Grandma’s House has been absolutely delightful. For the second day in a row, I’ve enjoyed a homemade Greek Salad for lunch with a beer, sitting out on my wee balcony.

This evening repeated last night with a stroll down to the Port for ouzo and meze at Elpida Kafeneion. The hardware in the harbour has to be seen to be believed!

Tomorrow means once again moving on… a short 1 hour 10 minute ferry ride to Rhodes and an overnight stay at Domus Hotel in the Old Town, before heading to the smallest inhabited Greek island… Chalki, where I’m looking forward to settling in for a 7 night stay.

Saturday, 18 June 2022… Initially, I had considered taking a boat trip today, which included a stop at the Monastery. However, I’ve seen enough of crowds spilling off boats to know that’s not my way of doing things and instead took the local bus at 07.30 hours… 30 minutes of zig zagging, up and down mountains, then back down to the seafront.

Situated in a closed in cove with a small beach at one end and a mountainous backdrop, it has an ambiance of solitude… until the daytrippers arrive on large ferries from Rhodes. My early start meant that I beat the crowds and by the time they arrived, I had ensconced myself at the beach… more lovely goats 🐐 for company.

A large 18th Century Venetian style building, it has the highest baroque bell tower in the world. This morning I was vigorously pursued by a guard who made sure I took no photographs in the church as it is forbidden.  A shame, because it is amazingly beautiful, in particular, the 2 metre high silver leafed wall icon of the Panormiti.

Either side of the main gateway are two rows of buildings that contain rooms with a kitchenette and bathroom. At the beach I met a Greek lady from Rhodes who told me these can be rented for E17 per couple per night… fantastic for anyone needing to get away for some peace and quiet.

Read somewhere online about Elpida Kafeneion, near the clock tower in Symi. Order a drink and complimentary nibbles will appear… decided tonight I would check it out. Harbourside, great 70’s 80’s music… best place to go if you’ve had a good lunch, don’t need dinner, however, you want to get out and about on a Saturday night and enjoy yourself.

Friday, 17 June 2022… Arriving on Symi, a small island in the Dodecanese group of twelve islands, leaves you speechless. The colourful neoclassical houses, picturesque harbour, the rows of million dollar luxury yachts… it’s almost too much to comprehend.

A slightly later arrival time of 07.00 hours, I was met at the Port by Chrysánthi’s husband who ferried me and my luggage up to Grandma’s House, before I set off from there to make the short walk back down to the harbour to begin exploring. Later in the day, all the daytrippers from Rhodes would arrive and from my point of view, that’s not so nice.

Spent a couple of hours strolling through alleyways, walking west and walking east around the harbour, admiring the multi coloured real estate and marvelling at how beautiful Symi, once famous for sponge diving and ship building, is. Eventually, when I came upon a bus that was leaving shortly for Pedi beach, I decided to hop on and go see what it was all about.

Pedi beach is more of a harbour than a beach, however, when I got talking to an English couple who have owned for 20 years, the cutest blue and white house with picture book windows, they told me about an easy hike along a trail to Agios Nikolaos beach. Organised with umbrellas and sun loungers, I much prefer to find somewhere under a tree.

Caught the bus back to the Port, also known as Gialos, found a place to sit and drink an ice cold beer and eat a club sandwich while filling in time to check in to my home for the next 3 nights. Named Grandma’s House, Chrysánthi told me her Yiayia (grandmother) raised 14 children here… hence the name of this new, fantastic apartment. Spacious, small kitchen, modern bathroom, strong WiFi and a small balcony with priceless views over the harbour.

Up since 03.30 hours and with the extreme heat of the day, it’s going to be an early night for me. Kalinychta.

Thursday, 16 June 2022…  For the third day in a row, caught the first bus out of Livadia, asking the driver to let me off by the side road leading to Micro Chorio, walking the remaining 1km.

Micro Chorio was a medieval settlement founded by the Knights of St. John in the hills above Livadia in the 15th Century. It was abandoned after World War II when the population moved to Livadia, on the eastern coast, taking with them the doors, the windows and the roofs of their old houses.

A music bar stands among the ruins which I believe is really cool for drinks at night and a free bus runs from Livadia at 23.00 hours, most people staying up there for the sunrise. Unfortunately, it only operates during the summer months and at the moment, it is too early in the season… there simply aren’t sufficient potential customers around.

Today, other than a few rather shy goats, I had the village completely to myself which made for a very unique experience.  Walked back to Livadia via a monopati (trail), enjoying the wonderful smells of the wild herbs (including throubi… summer savory, oregano and thyme) and figuring out how to open the roughly erected “gates to control goats” along the way.

The welcome sight of Livadia and ultimately George Apartments… went out later to Kritikos Restaurant in the bay for a delicious lunch of Tilos Salad and large draft Amstel beer. In the evening, another very enjoyable meal, this time at Kiriakos Restaurant… Deluxe Burger with Chips and white wine, my burger pattie shared with my new friend, a grey moggy who fell asleep at my feet.

Sadly, tomorrow morning at 04.50 hours I will catch the ferry Blue Star Chios, bound for the small island of Symi not too far away… ETA 06.15 hours. My host will meet me at the Port to take care of my luggage, however, check in won’t be until 15.00 hours… I’m sure I’ll find lots to fill in my day.

Wednesday, 15 June 2022… Another early start. Absolutely no need for an alarm clock when you have large numbers of hooded crows in the neighbourhood… squawking from the crack of dawn.

Left George Apartments in time to pickup my breakfast… Bougatsa (custard pie) from the bakery and chat with the oregano man, before catching the first bus of the day to Agios Antonios. Deserted in the early morning, however, I understand Delfini Tavern is a popular spot to watch the sunset.

Set out to walk the 5.5km to Agios Panteleimon Monastery. Past the Windmill and onwards in searing heat… such an amazing, stunningly beautiful coastline. Nisyros island can be seen in the distance, beehives, oleander and goats calling from clifftops… such a memorable walk.

Set in a landscape of exceptional natural beauty and constructed in the 15th Century, a full size depiction of the monk Ionas, founder of the Monastery, can be seen on the church wall. After 1936 and it’s last abbot Makarios, the Monastery was abandoned. It now functions purely as a place of pilgrimage while occasionally the parish priest from Megalo Chorio spends time there. Today he arrived shortly after 11.00 hours to unlock the gate, allowing myself and a couple from Austria in to view.

Walked back to Agios Antonios for a well deserved large draft Amstel beer, where I got talking to David. From London, a keen walker like myself, he has been visiting Greece for many years and in particular, Tilos. We both struggled to recall the name of a writer who wrote a book about life on Tilos… I read it several years ago. Later Google helped me out… “An Octopus In My Ouzo” by Jennifer Barclay. According to David, Jennifer is still seen in Livadia… maybe I’ll get to meet her before I leave Tilos.

Caught the express bus back to Livadia and headed straight to the bay for a swim. I’ve been out for early dinner but now feeling rather tired, albeit relaxed and ready for sleep. Tomorrow more adventures await me.

Tuesday, 14 June 2022.. Up early to catch the first bus (also the bread run) at 07.30 hours from Livadia to Megalo Chorio. Intent on making the difficult climb up to the Medieval Castle, I knew I would have to pretend to be a “goat” for a day.

Wherever you walk on Tilos there are goats… noble-looking goats. White, black, faun, chestnut, multi-coloured… I mean beautiful looking goats. Roaming free and leaping over walls or the edges of mountains, today they were my only companions on a climb that got me beat just shy of the top. Nevertheless, I feel no sense of defeat but rather proud of what I did achieve before the height and the sheer drop became a little too much and I made the decision to make my way back down to the village.

Megalo Chorio being the capital of Tilos, I went to enquire at the Town Hall as to whether or not the Palaeontological Museum, some 2km away near Charkadio Cave would be open… the answer was yes. Sat down to wait for a bus and spoke to a young woman, Marcela from Brazil who currently lives in London, however, is on Tilos visiting a friend. She was waiting for another friend, Fotis… Greek, living and working on Tilos as Site Manager for a construction company and his sister Dimitra, kindergarten teacher, living and working in Helsinki and here to visit Fotis, to pick her up to go visit the Palaeontological Museum and Charkadio Cave. I was offered a lift, front seat what’s more, while the girls sat in the cab at the rear.

In 1971, Professor of Geology and Palaeontology of the University of Athens N. Symeonidis, visited Tilos in order to study human remains discovered in the St. Antonios gulf, belonging to men buried in the beach sand during historical times. While on Tilos, he visited Charkadio Cave where he located the first elephant teeth. Since that time, over 15,000 bones have been collected, corresponding to about 45 dwarf elephants whose maximum height is estimated at 1.8m. These dwarf elephants lived on the island from 50,000 up to 4,500 years’ ago. Elephas tiliensis… the last elephants of Europe.

After returning to Megalo Chorio, I walked to To Palio Meraki, a traditional kafeneion, for a well deserved ice cold beer. When the other three arrived, I decided the least I could do was shout them all. However, I had one last request to make of Fotis. Since he would be driving Dimitra to Livadia to catch the 13.30 hours ferry to Rhodos, from where she will fly back to Helsinki, could I please have a ride back too.

So, this afternoon I’ve spent time relaxing in my room, whilst in the heat of the day, the chorus of the cicadas gets louder and louder.