Itisallgreek2me

Sunday, 31 July 2022… Left Areópoli this morning on the 08.30 hours bus to Gytheio… a mere 40 minutes ride away. All quite uneventful, however, I was surprised to find out how far the bus stop is from the harbour. Glad I left early before the heat of the day.

In 2010, I spent 4 nights in Gytheio, staying at Leonidas Hotel right on the waterfront. Walked by there today on my way to the ferry ticket office. I already had an online ticket, however, I had hoped to leave my luggage there for the day but no… the lady said it wasn’t possible. Walked on to a nearby cafe… same story, sorry, no room! Then visited RE salto Cafe snack bar… no problem 😊 and so it became my luggage storage, food, drink, Wifi, phone charge, WC stop during my 10 hours in Gytheio.

The last thing I did before leaving Aróma Avlís was publish my Blog about my time in Areópoli… no problem with my phone. By the time I reached Gytheio, although I had good Wifi connection at the Cafe, I couldn’t access my website nor my email and many of my Apps were down. It came up saying “No Internet Connection” well there was… some things like FB were working perfectly fine. “Problem connecting to the Server” etc etc. Began to wonder if I had been hacked. Being Sunday, Vodafone store was closed. I couldn’t access the Vodafone GR App so a card was of no use to Top Up data if that was the problem. Made for hot, frustrating and worrying work, necessitating an Amstel beer at 10 o’clock in the morning… a coffee fix wouldn’t cut it!

Went walkabout for a couple of hours to the pine tree covered island of Cranae, these days joined to the mainland by a causeway. Cranae is reputed to be the place where Paris and Helen spent the night together before leaving for Troy… starting the Trojan War.

On Cranae you will see the small Byzantine Church of Agios Petros. The Tzanetakis Tower, built in 1829 and now I believe housing a Museum that never seems to be open and a marble Lighthouse built in 1823… height 23m. Close to the Church I came across a mother cat with her 4 kittens… so sad, someone had left them a little food and mother watched her babies eat before moving in to finish any leftovers.

Returned to RE salto for lunch, ending up staying there for the remainder of the day as it was too hot to venture out anywhere. Late afternoon a mad rush back to the ferry ticket office for a paper ticket… with my phone woes, the QR Code was no longer available on my E-ticket.

Departed Gytheio on Seajets ferry boat “Aqua Jewell” at 19.00 hours, arriving on the island of Kythira just before 21.30 hours. A wheel broke on my trolley case as I was coming off the ferry… buggar! My hosts at Porfyra in Potamós had arranged for Manos the taxi driver to pick me up from the Port… what a character he turned out to be. Drove me here at break neck speeds, overtaking everything in sight on the 20km journey through the night… exhausting!

So it was quite a day… best news, the problems with my phone appear to be resolved.

Friday, 29 July 2022… Left Pirgaki Studios in Kardamýli around 07.00 hours to go wait for the 06.15 hours bus heading south from Kalamata. When it arrived at 07.25, I was informed it would take me to Agíos Nikón, not Oítylo, a little closer to my destination. Then, 15 minutes into my ride, I was told to get off in Stoúpa and take another bus a couple of minutes away. That bus duly arrived 10 minutes later, empty, however, it did deliver me to Agios Nikón around 08.25 hours… phew!

Until I arrived in Agíos Nikón I had no idea that it is only a tiny mountain village… no taxis and no buses to Areópoli. Only one thing to do… hitchhike. A very nice lady supplied me with paper on which to write “OÍTYLO” “AREÓPOLI” “Parakalo” (Please). Fortunately, it was my lucky day. The second car to pass by did a turn around, bringing me all the way, even driving through the narrow cobblestone alleyways of Areópoli wanting to take me to my accommodation. That didn’t quite work out, however, I had less than 300m to walk to Aróma Avlís Apartment (Perfumed Courtyard). At E129.60 for 2 nights (NZ$105 per night) it is the most expensive accommodation of my travels, however, it is worth the extra… very traditional and comfortable.

The lovely couple who picked me up this morning were Christina (Greek) and Giuliano (Italian). They live near Milan, however, are currently holidaying in Greece, staying in Stoúpa and today, their last day, decided to drive back to a beach south of Areópoli, they first visited on Monday. Such an awesome couple, I cannot thank them enough for their kindness.

Dropped off my luggage at the apartment and went to have my first look around Areópoli since the 1970’s. It was and still is one of the most beautiful and colourful small towns in Greece. In the evening I ate at Spáka by Plateia Athanaton, strolled down lively Kapetan Matapa Street, the main road of the old town, finishing up eating a tub of pistachio icecream in the Square.

Saturday, 30 July 2022… This morning a visit to the local weekly Laïkí (Farmers Market) was, as always, delightful. Couldn’t resist returning to the same Bakery as yesterday for another Hortópita (Greens Pie) before checking out Kastro Mavromichalis, then visiting the nearby Pyrgos Pikoulaki Museum where the exhibition is called “Stories of the Religious Faith of Mani”.

When I arrived yesterday, my host Grigórios recommended Kozouni near Plateia Athanaton… he said it’s where the locals go for homestyle cooking when they don’t feel like cooking at home. Kozouni is only open from 12.00 – 18.00 hours and yesterday I left it too late to go. However, today I got a takeaway from there and really enjoyed it.

Tomorrow I move on… 08.30 hours bus to Gytheio where I’ll spend some 10 hours before catching Seajets ferry boat “Aqua Jewell” to the island of Kythira, my last stop before Crete.

Thursday, 28 July 2022… It feels like forever since I first wished to visit the Patrick Leigh Fermor home, one of the most beautiful properties in Greece… located in Kalamitsi, just south of Kardamýli.

Patrick Leigh Fermor (1915-2011) Paddy, or Kýrios Michális as he was affectionately known, made the Mani internationally famous through his writing. He once wrote “Passing by you see the Mani in 3 days, walking in 3 months and in order to see it’s soul you need 3 lives… one for the sea, one for it’s mountains and one for it’s people.”

One of Britain’s best loved travel writers, at the age of 18 he walked from the hook of Holland to Constantinople. Paddy also played a prominent role in the Cretan resistance during WWII. Disguised as a shepherd, he lived for more than 2 years in the mountains and in 1944, led the party that captured German commander General Heinrich Kreipe and whisked him off the island.

Together with his wife Joan, a photographer, they developed a special relationship with Greece and in the 1960’s built their home in Kalamitsi. Paddy lived and wrote in Kalamitsi until the ripe old age of 96, passing away the day after arriving in England where he is buried next to Joan.

In 1996 the Patrick Leigh Fermor home was bequeathed to the Benaki Museum. Over the 3 months of summer, it is rented out and scheduled visits are only on a Monday from 11.00 – 12.00 hours. Since I arrived in Kardamýli on a Tuesday and leave on a Friday, that is of no use to me so yesterday I telephoned, hoping and praying they may allow an exemption to visit but sadly… no 😒😪 However, the lady did explain to me how to find the path leading up to the property.

Left my room early this morning to walk the 2.5km to Kalamitsi… better to at least see the property from behind the wall than not at all. I have to say, what I saw and felt today is really beyond description. It is not difficult to understand why Paddy and Joan bought the plot of land and built their beautiful villa in such a stunning location.

I then went on to spend some time at nearby Kalamitsi Beach. Whilst endeavouring to snap images from the beach of the Fermor home, I got talking to Grigórios and Giánnis, 2 young Greeks in their 20’s, tripping around in their van. They knew about the Fermor home.

Eventually returned to Kardamýli… a somewhat slow walk on an extremely hot day. Tomorrow I will make my way further south to Areópoli.

Tuesday, 26 July 2022… Farewelled Kyparissía at 11.00 hours as I left on the bus… a 90 minute ride to Kalamata. Today almost everything worked like clockwork. The 13.00 hours bus on to Kardamýli did exist… just a minor hiccup, my ticket said bus 46, leaving from platform 5. In fact, it was bus 53, leaving from platform 9!

The 75 minute ride from Kalamata to Kardamýli was a slow, hair raising at times journey along a winding, mountainous road but oh so picturesque. I love the sea, however, I am in awe of the mountains and Kardamýli, in the region of Messenia on the Mani Peninsula, sits between the peak of the Taygetos mountain range… Profitis Ilias at 2407m and the Messenian Gulf.

The village and surrounds are so beautiful that British architect and romantic, Charles Robert Cockerell described Kardamýli as being indescribably picturesque with a sensual smell of jasmine, wild herbs and sea that are picked up on the warm breeze.

Wednesday, 27 July 2022… I began today with a stroll around the village. Most of the older buildings are around 300 years’ old and made from local stone. Not too far away is the fortified complex of Troupakis-Mourtzinos in Old Kardamýli. A small collection of abandoned tower houses, clustered around the 18th century church of Ayios Spyridon… a must see in the area.

I’m not sure what possessed me, however, then decided to walk up to the 17th century church of Agia Sophia. Passed by the Tombs of the twin gods Castor and Pollux… onwards and upwards alongside the Vyros Gorge. Such breathtaking views from the mountains to the sea… well worth the journey.

Saturday, 23 July 2022… Left my room in Olympia this morning, allowing a little time for a walkabout before catching the 11.30 hours bus to Pyrgos, arriving 12.15 hours.

On the Ktel Bus Company website, it states “Kathimerenes” (which literally means every days) there is a bus from Pyrgos to Kyparissía at 13.25 hours. Seemed like perfect timing, however… the man at the ticket office informed me Kathimerenes means Monday to Friday, not Saturday and Sunday! You figure?🤔🤔🤔

So, there was a bus leaving at 16.00 hours, travelling south to Kaló Neró before turning east toward Tripoli and onward to Athens. Kaló Neró being just north of Kyparissía, from there I was able to call a taxi to come and pick me up, to take me the last few kilometers, arriving at my Hotel just before 18.00 hours.

Sunday, 24 July 2022… Began my day around 09.00 hours with a walk up to the Old Town, the area beneath the Byzantine Castle which, unfortunately, is temporarily closed. Came across a lovely Cafe with a view… perfect place to have breakfast. Returned to my room for a couple of hours rest before making a 15 minute stroll down to Ai-Lagoudis Beach where I stayed all afternoon. Unlike most other places I have been, today there was no charge for the sunbed and umbrella… expectations are that you will buy at least a drink. With few tourists in Kyparissía, food and drink prices everywhere are very reasonable too.

Monday, 25 July 2022… I have just been reading online, a major fire broke out yesterday near Ancient Olympia. Residents evacuated from several villages, including Krestena. I passed through there on Saturday… a little too close for comfort!

I so enjoyed my time yesterday at the beach and with nothing better to do today, returned for another dose of sun, sea and salt air. These are lazy, hazy, not so sure about crazy, days of summer!

In the evening, walked back up to the Old Town for dinner at Arkadía Gefsipoleío Restaurant. As I watched all the stages of the sun setting over the Ionian Sea, I reminded myself to live every day like there is no tomorrow.

Friday, 22 July 2022… Firstly, thank you everyone for caring ❤ I did have mixed feelings about sharing my misfortunes. However, according to my website Stats, only four Blogs which I wrote during my week on the island of Chalki and which were shared with the large expat community there, have received more views than “Caught Between A Rock And A Hard Place”… amazing!!!

A ferry and actually three buses, not two, brought me yesterday to Olympia. All very well timed as planned, arriving before the intense afternoon heat. Very sad to see the effects of last year’s wildfires still evident in the area. I’m very happy with my lodgings for 2 nights and having the use of a small communal kitchen means I can self cater. I can’t tell you how delicious boiled potatoes, carrots and zucchini tasted last night. 🥔🥕🥒

Tempted to go out walking in the evening, I reminded myself of how I felt just one day earlier and wisely stayed in to rest and prepare myself for today’s adventures.

The religious sanctuary of Ancient Olympia is, of course, famous as the birthplace of the Olympic Games, held there every four years from 776 BC to 393 AD. What is less well known is that it was also a place where remarkable works of art and culture were created and shared to worship the Greek god Zeus.

Conscious of my need to beat the heat of the day, this morning I was at the entrance to the archeological site around 08.00 hours opening time. Followed that up with visiting the Museum of Olympia, housed in a modern building and then the Museum of the Olympic Games, housed in a beautiful old building.

I cannot find words to adequately describe what I have seen and experienced today. In my opinion, Olympia far surpasses the Acropolis, the Acropolis Museum, Delphi and every other archeological place I have visited in Greece. The best I can do is quote what is written on an information board as you near the ancient site.

… no bright star more quickening than the sun must thou search in the void firmament by day, so neither shall we find any games greater than the Olympic whereof to utter our voice… (For Hieron of Syracuse, Winner in the Horse-Race, Sir Richard Francis Burton, 1821-1890 – Translation)

In the fertile valley of legendary Alpheus and its tributary, Kladeus, in a place of unique and superb natural beauty with rich mythological tradition, was founded the Sanctuary of Zeus, father of Gods and Humans, in the dawn of historic period.

Although geographically isolated, as located in this corner of the western Peloponnese, Olympia stood out historically as the most important Panhellenic religious, political and athletic centre of the ancient Greek world.

Olympia, a monument inscribed in the Catalogue of the World Cultural Heritage of Unesco 1989, was the cradle for ideals, which characterized the Humanity through centuries, such as noble rivalry and fair playing. By implanting these values, Olympia, since antiquity and to eternity, teaches mankind to seek and achieve moral “kotinus” – triumphs.

Welcome to Ancient Olympia!

Sunday, 17 July 2022… I certainly had some doubts as to whether my taxi would arrive in the morning… a very strange man, however, he did turn up and I made it in time to catch the 09.30 hours Lefkada/Athens bus, getting off in Rio around 11.45 hours. Took a taxi from there to Patras Bus Station… the good news being I didn’t need to go to Pyrgos but rather direct to Kyllini, however, I had a long wait for the 15.45 hours departure. Hot as hell, not feeling great… more about that later.

So, you put your luggage on the bus and board yourself to travel the one hour 15 minutes journey to Kyllini. If, like me, you don’t already have a paper ticket for the ferry (booked online) the driver waits while you hurriedly visit the ticket office, reboard the bus and get driven the short distance to the ferry. You walk on board, leaving your luggage on the bus which also travels over on the ferry to the island of Zakynthos. Off the ferry and back on the bus to be driven to Zakynthos Bus Station… all very unusual. Some messaging between me and my host then Georgios came to collect me. Anxious to get a good night’s sleep, settled into my lovely spacious apartment and retired early.

Monday, 18 July 2022… Now, maybe some of you have been astute enough to read between the lines… I’m not sure, however, for more than a week I’ve done my best to cover up the fact that I’ve not been very well. Barely able to look at food and with diarrhea… the heat not helpful either. Stubborn me, I should have gone to see a Doctor at least a week ago but didn’t. By this morning I was left with no choice and messaged Georgios to help me get to a Doctor.

It seems I probably have a bacterial infection in my gut, however, results from the laboratory will take 3 days to confirm. In the meantime, I’m on antibiotics, electrolytes etc and resting and I have to call the Doctor daily… I think I’ve avoided hospitalization by a whisker.

I’m so grateful and fortunate to be where I am… my hosts are extremely nice, genuine, caring people. Georgios comes downstairs from his office several times a day to check on me and is only a phone call away day and night. His lovely wife Vicki (Vasiliki) came and made me Chicken Soup in the apartment today. All I want is to feel well again so that I can continue with my travels.

Tuesday, 19 July 2022… With the help of a sleeping tablet, I slept right through the night. Thankfully the diarrhea has stopped and although I’m still feeling quite weak, I am able to eat light foods such as boiled rice, chicken soup, bread and honey and of course, plenty of fluids.

Sadly I have seen nothing of this beautiful island, however, I have met two of the loveliest people.

Wednesday, 20 July 2022… Realizing that I couldn’t stay forever in the apartment, made ready to visit a nearby supermarket, however, I hadn’t the strength to walk there. Instead, packed up my belongings and an overnight bag, just in case and Georgios drove me to the hospital.

After several hours on an intravenous drip I felt very much better and my blood results were excellent. I may never know just exactly what has made me so unwell these past 2 weeks, however, hopefully by Thursday evening the Lab results from Monday’s sample will be to hand and provide some answers.

Thursday, 21 July 2022… So, the only Image I have to share from Zakynthos is a selfie… masked up in hospital and on a drip… SAD! I’m on a ferry right now, departing Zakynthos for Kyllini on the mainland. Hoping to make the 09.30 hours bus to Pyrgos then another to Olympia… should arrive early afternoon. I’ll rest for the remainder of the day and fingers crossed, tomorrow I’ll be a sightseer.

Friday, 15 July 2022… My original plan was to stay 3 nights in Lefkada, however, when I found out last week that there wasn’t a bus on Thursdays from Igoumenitsa, that is when I rearranged things so that yesterday I could take the weekly bus to Liá, stay an extra night in Igoumenitsa, then travel on to Lefkada today for a shorter stay.

Leaving Igoumenitsa at 11.45 hours, the two hour journey seemed to take no time at all as I found myself sitting next to Jean-Marie, a kindred spirit from Belgium. On arrival in Lefkada, went our separate ways as I hopped into a taxi to take me to Ionian Breeze Studios. Thinking I had booked a fairly central location, I questioned the driver as we seemed to be heading further out of town. He was right, I was wrong… a nice place in Frini, a rather affluent suburb with many large villas and resort style accommodation, close to Agios Ioannis beach.

So with limited time here, lack of energy and the location more remote than I would have wished for, made the decision to not even attempt to see more of the island (joined to the mainland via causeway). Checked out the beach… very popular with windsurfers and kite surfers and decided tomorrow I’ll spend most of the day there.

Saturday, 16 July 2022… With today’s forecast high in Lefkada being 37°C, I was out walking early, covering quite a distance along Agios Ioannis beach before returning as far as Varkó Beach Bar/Restaurant and there I stayed until well into the afternoon. Somewhat reluctantly paid my E10 for two sunbeds and an umbrella, however, I was very comfortable and the amount of time spent there kind of made it worthwhile. Being able to order yoghurt, fruit and honey for lunch which they delivered to me on the beach was rather nice too.

Tomorrow morning I’ll take a taxi back to the Bus Station. I have a ticket for the Athens bus departing at 09.30 hours, however, I will get off in Rio… from there on everything is a wait and see. I know I have then to get to Patras, then Pyrgos, then Kyllini and from Kyllini I have a ticket for the 21.30 hours ferry to Zakynthos but I’m hoping with a bit of luck I might be there in time for an earlier sailing 😉

Thursday, 14 July 2022… Since first reading many years’ ago, ‘Eleni’ by Nicholas Gage, I have yearned to visit Liá. A tiny village high up in the inhospitable Mourgana mountain range, close to the Albanian border, I somehow needed to connect with Liá, even though I knew the feeling would be somber.

Leaving Igoumenitsa at 05.00 hours on the only weekly bus, after dropping off 3 Greek people at another village, the driver invited me to sit up front in order to take in the views. Fortunately, I had thought to take some warmer clothing as when we arrived in Liá, it was only 14°C.

During the Greek Civil War in the 1940’s, Communist guerillas occupied Liá and did their best to take the children of the village, sending them beyond the Iron Curtain. Eleni Gatzoyiannis, an incredibly strong, intelligent and loving mother, arranged to have 4 of her 5 children smuggled out under darkness and for this ‘crime’ she was held prisoner in the cellar of her own home. Being the largest home in the village (3 rooms) the guerillas had taken it over to use as their headquarters. Eleni was tortured and then shot… her body and others left in the ravine where they fell. There being no room left in the garden… with 37 bodies already buried under the mulberry tree.

Eléni’s last words to her son Nick were to join his father in Massachusetts and never return to Greece. However, many years’ later as an investigative journalist, Nicholas Gage returned to track down his mother’s killers.

Only by visiting could I understand the remoteness and beauty of Liá and obviously much has changed too over the years. Liás Inn, a place for travellers to stopover is closed, the kafeneion is closed, the museum temporarily closed. Not so much as a toilet anywhere for public use, meant heading for the bushes, keeping an apprehensive eye open for snakes which I’m told there are plenty of in the area. A number of street dogs too… one in particular was determined to stick with me. Another fearlessly chased away a cow, many of which roamed aimlessly along the winding road.

With very little life in the village, I did manage to ask a couple of people where I might find Eléni’s house. Rebuilt in 2002 by Nick Gage’s daughter Eléni, Eléni’s granddaughter, I followed a road upwards, came to a sign saying ‘ELÉNI’S HOUSE’ and in spite of following the direction of the arrow, eventually I had to admit defeat. So close and yet so far.

Not long before the bus returned for me around 15.00 hours, a local passerby offered to take me to see Eléni’s House on his motor scooter. Although seriously tempted, I had no wish to miss my ride back to Igoumenitsa. It had been a very long, albeit fulfilling day on which I will reflect forever… Eléni, the Greek mother who made the ultimate sacrifice for her children. ❤

Tuesday, 12 July 2022… The most uneventful day imaginable, I stayed in my room in an effort to recharge my failing body batteries. No need for worry, it’s Friday now and at last, I feel like a new woman.

Wednesday, 13 July 2022… With not too much I had to achieve, checked out of Vasiliki Apartments at 12 noon, left my luggage there for later collection while I meandered about Lakka, waiting for the 16.00 hours bus to the Port. Unfortunately, I don’t feel I did Paxos justice this trip. One of those things… shit happens! Two hours hanging around at the Port waiting for F/B Agia Theodora to sail at 18.15 hours, arriving 19.45 hours back in Igoumenitsa and to Hotel Oscar just across the road. Got organized as best I could, ready for my long awaited day trip to Liá in the morning. Early night, early start… bus departure 05.00 hours.