Itisallgreek2me

Tall ship in harbour, Spetses Island

Returned to Bar Spetsa last night – only for one 5 star Metaxa and one 500ml bottle of water this time – reason being I had plans to be up early this morning to go on a very long walk – all mapped out where I would go.  Met Paddy and Wendy – you guessed – from Ireland, like minded souls who love to walk and have been visiting Spetses for many years.    By Greek standards, back to my room early just after 2300 hours with a view to setting off early this morning.  

On the road by 0720 hours – walked by Taverna O Lazaros, now I know exactly where it is must make a point of eating there (read about it in the Lonely Planet Guide before I left home).  A tall ship moored in the harbour this morning – I’m told they are infrequent visitors here – in today’s haze it was all very magical.   

Thought I would easily find the road but oh no – having already realised I had left without changing very low batteries in the camera and with a left knee trying to tell me something about my age fast approaching 60 – if that all wasn’t enough, I lost my way – not Lost, just the way!  There is a difference.  From roads, to paths, to donkey tracks and even on no tracks, I managed to walk quite a considerable distance in the hills, at one point I now know I was only 100 metres below the main road I had meant to take in the first instance.  A walk that did not go to plan, nonetheless, enjoyable.  

Something which always seems to fascinate visitors to Greece are the roadside shrines, where a candle flickers, a colour picture of a Saint stares back and the top is crowned with a cross.  Sometimes built as a remembrance for a traffic accident victim but often built by a survivor of a potentially tragic accident or, to publicly thank a Saint for a benefit, not to commemorate a tragedy.  

From the hills I came down to walk along the harbour side, passed a fisherman beating a rather large octopus against the wall to tenderise it.  Economou Mansion, built in 1851 by the famous Captain Michail Economou – now offering upmarket accommodation.  And, in front of the Poseidonion Grand Hotel – the monument to Laskarina Bouboulina – born 11 May 1771, died 22 May 1825 – the Greek heroine of the War of Independence in 1821.  

This afternoon I met up with Costas again for lunch – having not closed the Bar until 0515 hours this morning, he then went home for rest and I went back to my room to perform the daily ritual of updating  my website.  It is only 26 kilometres around the island so you will know it is true – I only lost my way, I was not Lost!

Near Old Harbour, Island of Spetses

Left my room around 1800 hours last evening to take in a walk before dinner.  Made my way up to the higher reaches of the town where the view over the rooftops and sea is quite spectacular.  Unfortunately, on a vacant plot I came by a number of tiny kittens obviously suffering terribly and in their last hours of life.  Very very distressing and nothing I could do about it.  

There has been and obviously still is a degree of wealth on this island – to be honest, I find many of the old neo-classical buildings to be rather ugly.  I’m told waterfront homes are worth sums in the 8 figure bracket which is just crazy.  A small 100m2 home in the town without views can be around 300,000 Euro.  Ended up back on the waterfront around 2000 hours to eat at a place called Roussos, then by 2100 hours I was ready to check out Bar Spetsa. 

The ‘gentleman’ mentioned in yesterday’s blog turned out to be Costas, the owner and sole operator of the Bar he set up 24 years’ ago.  After drinking two 5 star Metaxa brandies on the rocks, accompanied by two 500ml bottles of water and having had much conversation with Costas and many of his patrons (not to mention the music enjoyment, including the playing of Jethro Tull’s ‘Living in the Past’ as soon as I had said they were quite possibly my favourite group of all time) I finally left at around 0100 hours with an invitation from Costas to be taken out for lunch today – arranged to meet at the Bar at 1430 hours. 

Ventured out early afternoon to send my weekly postcard to Mum and Dave, picked up a map of the roads around the island and visited the supermarket.  Walking back towards Mexis Studios ran into Costas near his home.  Invited me in where I met 2 of his 4 cats – the adorable Bob and handsome Oliver.  Costas knows everyone and everyone knows Costas – he has great knowledge of not only this island but, in fact, the whole of Greece.  Then left to walk to the Old Harbour where we dined on Kalamarakia (squid), Garides (shrimp), Horta (wild greens) and Horiatiki Salata (Greek salad).  Words cannot describe how wonderful the lunch was, also the location and Costas –  an intelligent, well educated, English speaking Greek man.   I will be back at Bar Spetsa tonight.

Seaview from my room, Mexis Studios, Spetses

Left Hydra this morning on the hydrofoil – only a short hop to the island of Spetses.  Telephoned my host Susan from the port of Dapia then walked to meet her by the kiosk near Mexis Studios.  There are only 4 rooms – 2 upstairs, 2 downstairs – mine is upstairs with a small balcony and a view of the sea.  Just perfect – for those who are interested the best site to check this place out is  www.spetsesdirect.com/mexis_studios_in_spetses_greece 

Did what little unpacking there was to do and ventured out to see what I could see and to find a venue for lunch away from the harbour establishments which can be pricey.  Ended up at Simos Lena Bar Cafe where my lunchtime feline companion left my heart in tatters.  How I would love to be able to offer him a good home.  Check out his photo and take note of the streets here paved with pebbles. 

As I understand it, cars are banned in Spetses town, other than taxis, service vehicles and such like, however, the place is teeming with motorbikes and scooters which is something I don’t appreciate very much.  To me walking is the best mode of transport.  There are also, of course, many horse drawn carriages if one is feeling romantic and boat taxis to the beaches and other parts of the island.  

I’m sure when I explore further, I will find many buildings worth photographing, including some of the old neo-classical mansions.  In the meantime, check out the Poseidonion Grand Hotel – you can stay there for a mere Euro 200 – Euro 800 per night (I’m not yet rich and/or famous).   My daily budget for everything is Euro 70 per day. 

Before leaving home, I read in the Lonely Planet Guide about Bar Spetsa.  Today I discovered it is literally only 30 seconds walk from my room.  Returning here after lunch I photographed the sign outside and spoke to a gentleman who was just locking up.  Yes, they will be open from 2100 hours tonight so think I will pop along for a drink later and listen to some music from the 60’s and 70’s.

Monastery of St. Nicholaos, Hydra

Today is definitely my last on Hydra – last night purchased my ticket to the island of Spetses departing at 1015 hours tomorrow on the Flying Dolphin 18.  Awaiting an email reply from Mexis Studios regarding my accommodation there. 

Last evening dined at Taverna Barbar-Dimas, complete with resident puppy Lisa and the usual cluster of cats.  Quaint little place with a very pleasant ambiance.  Food and wine okay and certainly not expensive.  Returned there today for lunch after my lengthy walk.  Last evening several large yachts were moored in the harbour and as I sat at Barbar-Dimas, staff from another Taverna were extremely busy ferrying glasses and who knows what else in small carts, up and down to the harbour  – apparently 500 people to cater for – that should go some small way to helping the Greek economy.  Beautiful, beautiful children playing in the street with the most angelic faces.  The feeling here is very much of being a safe haven.  2100 hours and the children still outside playing.  At Erofili Pension, vacant rooms are left open all day to air, luggage is left in the office easily accessible from the street and my washing left hanging in the courtyard for anyone to take if they wanted to. 

Today saw me setting off just before 1000 hours on a  3 plus hour walk to Paradise.  Had intended only to go as far as the Monasteries St. Triada and St. Matrona, however, in a mood for further exploration I carried on to the Monastery of St. Nicholaos.  So peaceful and quiet and the stillness – broken only from time to time by nature as a lizard scurries away from my path or the sound of a donkey in the distance.  Reaching St. Nicholaos one is greeted by the most amazing vista that has you looking out to sea on the other side of the island.  There I spoke with a couple from Paris who have been visiting Hydra for 15 – 18 years and particularly enjoy being here for the Easter celebrations.   They walked on further as I made my way up to and inside the Monastery – not a living soul to be seen.  If the monks were there I certainly never saw them.  Sat on the Monastery steps to eat the best tasting orange ever!  The entire experience well worth the journey.  On my return to Hydra town, I found St. Triada to be locked and so, decided not to take on the hike up to St. Matrona which in all likelihood, was probably also closed.  On the way back down I passed a group of four from Scotland, Bulgaria, America and I forget where the other person was from, they were walking to Mandraki.  An opportunity to have someone take a photograph of me.   

I feel blessed to have had the experience.

Helen and Joseph

Generally, it is rather quiet and peaceful here in Hydra town.  With all the bad press and talk of uncertainty, I believe many people are staying away for now.  

Last evening around 2000 hours I ventured out to find somewhere to have a meal.  Came across “O Kipos Tis Yevses” – The Garden of Taste Taverna.  Had a quick look at the menu and thought to myself, this will do me just fine.  No sooner was I seated when I heard the distinctive Kiwi accent drifting across from a nearby table.  Ordered my meal – Tzatziki (a yoghurt dip with cucumber and garlic), Fasolakia (green beans in a fresh tomato sauce), a little Psomi (bread) and, naturally, Kokino Krassi (red wine).  The latter their own production and bottled, tasted great, however, rather more expensive (9 Euro 375ml) than what I am used to drinking here from a barrel.  

Approached the two intrepid Kiwis and asked where they were from – Wellington.  Craig and Bronnie had been in South Africa prior to coming to Greece and were enjoying a relaxing wine together.  JDW – Craig said to tell you he is Gareth Lyne’s brother – thought you might know him . 

Also there enjoying their evening meal were a group of ten people from Poland.  I was touched as I watched many times,  a young woman leave their table to go out on the street to feed the very appreciative stray pussycats.  It is always pleasing to witness those among us who genuinely care for these unfortunates. 

Late this morning after visiting the bakery to purchase my lunch (same as yesterday – Spanakopita (spinach pie) I set off in the opposite direction to yesterday’s stroll for another pleasant and interesting coastal walk.  On the track above Kamini I met Joseph from Lebanon.  Continued on alone as far as Vlychos then decided that in spite of a cool breeze, I had left it rather too late in the day for walking any great distance under the hot sun.  Stopped at a Taverna on the return leg and asked if they could make me a Greek coffee – the response was “at this hour” to which I replied, “for me, yes” (all spoken in Greek, of course).  

Tomorrow being the 1st of May, i.e. May Day in Greece, it is expected that the unrest in Athens may ignite into a more serious situation.  Because of this I have decided not to move on before Sunday or Monday, more than likely Sunday, partly because I’ve made no progress in my efforts here to negotiate a more favourable room rate and in any case, it feels like the right time to move on.  

Looking forward to another Taverna meal somewhere tonight – here in Paradise!

Harbour, Hydra town

After four nights in Athens, exploring the nicer side of the city which many choose not to see, I was ready early – up, up and away – my first mission to walk to Monastiraki Metro Station and catch the train to the port of Piraeus. Cost 1 Euro – Green Line.  Sounds simple enough – train arrives at the platform – in spite of the early hour (not yet 0700 hours) hop on to find standing room only.  Oh well, leave the pack on back and make the most of it.  Then, you won’t believe it (or maybe you will if you read about how we were all ordered off the bus on the way into Athens because the driver was apparently going on strike).  Two or three stations on when we arrived at the suburb of Kallithea, an announcement in Greek only, all off the train, it’s going no further! 

Asked a woman how should I expect to make my way to Piraeus?  One word answer “bus”!  And yes, there was a connecting bus, however, no one seemed able to tell me I needed to climb some stairs, walk over the railway lines and on another two blocks to find the bus!  A bus which transported us to Paleo Faliro where it stopped and suddenly I came to the realization that all other persons had gotten off the bus and so I followed.  On to another train which fortunately, this time did take us all to Piraeus and a much needed coffee. 

Gone are the days of the bigger, slower ferries to islands like Hydra.  The Flyingcat 1 is a catamaran, taking just two hours sitting in aeroplane style seats to reach our destination, with only a quick stop on the way for passengers disembarking at the island of Poros. 

Met on arrival by Yiorgos (George) from Pension Erofili and guided there to my room.  Spacious and clean and with a small fridge and television.  This island is beautiful, peaceful (only service vehicles allowed) and a walker’s paradise.  Explored only part of the town before deciding on a lunch venue then walked some more, this time up higher to get a good view of the harbour.  Met Eugenie and her 14 month old son Alexandros.  Eugenie and her husband/partner have lived here for 18 months and own three houses side by side.  Eugenie showed me through their home and offered me my own place there for 25 Euro per day.  I would have taken up the offer, had it not been for the fact their WiFi is broken and I’m able to connect to the Pension’s here. 

Opportunities for taking photographs are all around me.  Unfortunately, portrait don’t always convert well into thumbnail for my More Photos Page and all photos suffer a degree of cropping.  However, by clicking on any photo, you will see more of the subject and I will not apologise for the number of cats warranting inclusion on my website. 

This morning (Thursday 29 April) I went for a two hour stroll around the coastline and yes, I’ve said it before but will say it again, the ocean is truly as blue as it appears in photographs.  In a small cove by a little church which I photographed, there was living a person I can only best describe as a hermit.  Whether by choice or circumstance he finds himself there, I’ll never know.  I wanted to go down and chat with him, however, did not as we all deserve our privacy.  Who knows, maybe he is living his dream as I am mine.

Egyptian and a Kiwi

If anyone ever doubted my ability to master this machine, then I’ve certainly proven them wrong.  It’s had a hammering these last few days, however, the opportunity presented itself with free Internet access at The Student & Travellers Inn.  Whether I will continue to be so lucky on my travels remains to be seen. 

Yes, the time has come for me to move on.  Tomorrow I’m catching the Flyingcat 1 from Piraeus at 0900 hours bound for the island of Hydra.   A destination I’ve never visited before but always wanted to go there.  Very popular I believe with artists, writers and such like minded peoples.  Not the cheapest place either for accommodation but I did find on the web Erofili Pension and have reserved a room for 40 Euro per day.   Best site to check it out www.greekislandsrealestate.com/erofili_pension_hydra_island_greece  

The weather today has been quite unseasonal with rather a cold wind.  After revisiting the Vodafone store and getting the nice people there to setup my mobile with a Greek number, I had a very pleasant walk through the National Gardens, past the Zappeion and on to yet another archaeological site.  If there is one drawback with travelling alone, it is having no one you know to take photographs with yourself  in them.  At the Olympian site I met up with an Egyptian guy in the same situation and so we exchanged our cameras for a few shots and even managed to have an Asian tourist take one of us together (the Asian’s antics were quite amusing and  a video of them would have made for great entertainment). 

We parted company as he had limited time and a plane to catch today.  I continued my walk back to the Plaka, in time for an early Taverna lunch and return to my room to update my site and make ready for tomorrow’s early departure.  Tonight will be my last meal at Damigos.  Last night I had their well-known and famous specialty dish Bakaliarakia (deep fried cod fish) with Skordalia (a kind of dip loaded with garlic), a few Patates Tiganetes (fries), Psomi (bread) and of course, my 1/4 litre of Krassi (wine). 

Very early days but so far managing to stay within my daily budget!

The Erechtheion, Acropolis, Athens

Began the  day negotiating a better room rate – from tonight 30 Euro which is very reasonable for Athens.  I actually like my small room and to date, no one else has used the shared bathroom.  I was told this morning the mattress is new on my bed which explains why it is this comfortable – a very rare thing in Greece! 

This morning I visited the Vodafone shop and 5 Euro procured me a card and phone number for Greece.  I will return tomorrow and have a staff member there set it up for me as most of you know, I’m not at all technically minded. 

Something I meant to write about yesterday – the street sellers everywhere – mostly African (probably all here illegally) – they place on the pavement a sheet with their wares, e.g. bags, watches, sunglasses and trade until they see the police approaching.   Within seconds everything is bundled up and they’re hot footing it until the coast is clear,  then they start all over again. 

And so to my main activity of the day – visiting firstly the Theatre and Sanctuary of Dionysos, the Odeion of Herodes Atticus and the Acropolis.  Then to the Ancient Agora – on the north-west slopes of the Acropolis, this was the heart of ancient Athens from the late 6th C BC onwards.  It was a place for political gatherings and debate, for elections, religious occasions and trading activities, theatrical performances and athletic competitions. 

Walking further along I came to The Kerameikos, the most important and official cemetery of ancient Athens.  An archaeological site different from others in Athens, a place that received the bodies of thousands of Athenians for over 1,500 years. 

At every turn there is another photographic opportunity.

On slopes of the Acropolis

 Sunday 25 April – Anzac Day in New Zealand.  A couple of  related reminders of that today as I walked through Syntagma Square where commemorations were taking place marking the 95th anniversary of the Armenian Genocide by the Turks.  Then later in the afternoon as I was photographing red poppies at the Tower of the Winds. 

I began my walking day around that area known as Anafiotika.  This settlement, on the slopes of the Acropolis, was created in the 19th Century by migrants from the Cycladic Island of Anafi and they built their homes in the traditional island style. 

Time for lunch so I headed back to Damigos to partake of the most freshest, delicious, tastiest, yummy Greek Salad you can imagine.  With a little bread, of course, and all washed down with a beer.  This old traditional taverna,  which has welcomed celebrities and common people alike since 1865, can be found at 41 Kydathineon, Plaka, Athens. 

Six years’ ago when my good friend Doreen and I were here, we stayed just around the corner from where I am now at Hotel Kouros (now closed).  Doreen was lulled to sleep each night by the sounds of an elderly gentleman playing his accordian nearby.  Three years’ ago he wasn’t to be found, however, yesterday there he was.  I chatted with this now 82 year old darling of Doreen’s – maybe he did actually remember her – I’m not sure. 

As I walked on and passed by Parliament Buildings, something had been happening there as the World Press were photographing a group of males, including I think the Prime Minister.  I took photos of that particular gentleman, however, I have still to confirm his identity. 

Next destination Lykavittos Hill and in particular, Sarantapichou Street where I lived back in the early 1970’s.  Only one of my rented properties remains, many have made way over the years for newer apartment blocks. 

A long walk back via Monastiraki to the Plaka and down Flessa Street where I used to work.  All my old haunts – VO Bar, Mecca etc all long since gone, but still, a trip down memory lane.

Taverna Damigos, The Plaka, Athens

The weather not up to much today – 25 degrees C, hazy and everything looks like it could do with a good shower of rain – dusty and dry! 

Whenever I arrive in Athens, I nearly always catch the X95 bus into Syntagma Square.  2.90 Euro in 2007, 3.20 Euro now so has only gone up a little.  The usual scramble with everyone boarding, however,  managed to procure myself a hard seat and keep my belongings near.  Unfortunate about the bloke on the seat beside me who apparently doesn’t know what deodorant is and the other bloke who wanted windows closed on a hot day.  Trivial matters compared with what was about to happen next.  Bus driver stopped far from Syntagma Square, ordered all passengers off, he was going on strike!  As I was not in familiar surroundings and unbelievably tired by this time, I walked for over an hour (first occasion with backpack, that was okay but blisters on feet – bugger)  to get to Syntagma Square and on to the Plaka.   Through chaos on the streets, police cordons and what appeared to be an impending demonstration. 

Managed to procure a room at The Student & Travellers Inn www.studenttravellersinn.com in the heart of Plaka, the old part of Athens below the Acropolis.  Opted for a room on my own, quite small, shared bathroom next door (no one else has used it yet), clean and a comfy bed (for those of you who haven’t travelled in Greece, I need to tell you comfy beds are as scarce as hens’ teeth).  Hot showers are something else you don’t take for granted  – no worries here at the Inn, hot showers 24 hours.  Also, Free Internet is a big bonus!  All for 35 Euro per night which I will try to negotiate if I decide to stay a while, no decision made yet. 

More than anything else, I needed sleep last night, however, cleaned up then went out for a walk (in Greek they call it Volta).  On summer evenings, you see entire families, often late into the night.  Wearing their best regalia, they will stop somewhere for refreshments. 

I chose to enjoy my first meal back at Damigos (Doreen you will remember this Taverna downstairs where we ate in 2004, the night I came out of hospital).  A family run business established in 1865 I think.  Talking to the people there, it was very quickly confirmed that for the Greeks,  life is very difficult at the moment.  I ordered Yemista (two huge, plump, very red tomatoes, stuffed with rice and deliciously flavoured with herbs) served with equally delicious potatoes and of course, a little bread.  All washed down with a 1/4 litre of the local house red wine.  Complimentary – olives and pickled chillies to start, sweet liqueur to finish.  All for 10 Euro. 

Picked up a bottle of water to have in my room, went to bed early around 2000 hours, still feeling somewhat shattered, however, I will get out there tomorrow and see what exciting people or things I can find.