Itisallgreek2me

Mid 12th Century Byzantine church of Agia Sophia, Monemvasia

This medieval fortress with an adjacent town is located on a small peninsula off the coast of the Peloponneses and linked to the mainland by a 200m long causeway.  The name Monemvasia is derived from the words ‘moni emvasi’ i.e. sole approach.  This 300m high rock was first settled by the Laconians in the 6th Century AD.  Since then and for more than 1,000 years, Monemvasia has experienced not only days of glory and fame, but also sieges and occupations.  Monemvasia was finally liberated during the Greek War of Independence 1821-1829. 

To reach the old town, one must walk or drive across the causeway from the mainland to the entrance portal in the walls.  Walk the few steps through the tunnel and emerge into a town of tile roofed houses, attractive shops, cafes and more than forty churches strewn among the narrow streets.  Most of the buildings are made from local stone and many have been renovated to serve as hotels and summer homes to both Greeks and foreigners. 

After two nights staying in New Monemvasia on the mainland (considered splashing out and staying somewhere in the castle, however, it is far too romantic a place to sleep on one’s own) busy updating my website, today I was up very early to go visit the old town and fortress.  Weather overcast and drizzly but certainly not cold – from the point of view of taking photographs, no shadows to be concerned with, only the sky and the sea would not be their glorious blue.  

What can I say – Monemvasia is a knock out!  Incredibly beautiful – from the dozens of photographs I have taken today, I sincerely hope you will all enjoy the selection I have added to my More Photos page.  

Tonight will be my last here in New Monemvasia.  Had hoped to visit the village of Kiparissi, however, it is just too difficult to get to. Considered a couple of nights in Neapoli but again it was going to involve too much travelling during the next four days, so have purchased my bus ticket, leaving at 0715 hours tomorrow morning (Sunday) back the 95km to Sparti and from there, another bus south to Gythio.  The last time I was there back in 1981 I was en route to Crete where I met Costas in Kastelli Kissamos – another chapter from my past – now next Thursday I will make the same ferry journey to visit Anna, Costas’ mother and all the rest of the extended family – some forty plus, I can’t remember exactly how many there are now – when I was living there, I made twenty two.  Their doors will always be open to me and there, I never go without.  

Although I’m travelling alone, anyone who wishes to can travel with me on this journey.  I am free – I am certainly not alone!

View from my room - Monemvasia

With the heavy wooden shutters they have here on the windows, it is almost impossible to tell what sort of morning it is out there until you get up from the bed to view.  Yesterday came as a shock to see the mountains closing in with cloud, wind and a little rain.  At first, I thought the weather may keep me in Kosmas for another day and, of course, I would have been quite content in many ways to do so.  Again, the reality was there were no buses out of there and Costas and I agreed my best bet was to go down to the Square and wait to see who would come along, be brave and approach them in a positive way.  I’m sure fear is the main reason people are reluctant to stop and pick anyone up. 

Packed ready then downstairs for  freshly squeezed orange, koulourakia and coffee.  The weather tried playing tricks with my mind, producing a little more water from the sky while at the same time, it was warm and the sun was beginning to find it’s way through.  Not easy to know how to thank someone who has shown such hospitality and friendship.  I had spent the most amazing two days there at “Ouranogiton” and all he would take was the 60 Euro for my room.  I must have looked a rather forlorn figure as I set off by foot to the Square, however, I knew I had to brighten up if I was to have success in moving on from there. 

Never much happening in the Plateia but for two days I had noticed the occasional camper van or car with occupants of European extraction stopping for perhaps a drink or something to eat then back on the road.  Eyed a middle aged couple making their own cuppa at the edge of the Square and so I approached Fossey and Brigitte (French), introduced myself and relayed as best I could with their limited knowledge of English what it was I needed their help for.  At first I sensed a little reluctance but they agreed and we shared a very pleasant short journey together.  They were travelling to Sparti and Mystra then on down to Gythio to their hotel for the night.  I needed to reach Sparti where I believed I could catch a bus to take me to Monemvasia and so that is where they left me at the Sparti Bus Station at around 1300 hours – the necessary bus left at 1330 hours with NO changeover necessary. 

The first accommodation place that I noticed on arrival was Hotel Aktaion, more than adequate with fridge, television and a queen size bed.  The room rate is 30 Euro per night – upgraded to a room with sea vews and only a few meters away from the causeway to the castle.  Most important, of course, there is WiFi Internet – the connection and signal not very wonderful in my room but I go downstairs to the noisy cafe and sit with all the mad keen Greek soccer fans watching a game on T.V, trying to ignore and to be ignored. 

This afternoon I have a mission to update my Photo Gallery which takes more time than anything to do on this machine.  Will see how I go.  The day is stunning – very warm, light breeze – I believe tonight I shall make my first visit to the castle at Monemvasia – Greece’s Rock of Gibraltor.

The Queen in her Palace - Kosmas village

Kosmas, in the province of Arcadia, had a population figure in 2001 of 591.  The village, renowned for it’s stone built houses, was burnt by the Germans in 1944 and ruined again during the Greek Civil War 1946-1969.  If you wish to get away from the stresses of life, then I can highly recommend you visit Kosmas.  You will enjoy your time of that I am sure, however, I doubt anyone will experience life quite as I did for the two days I was there.   

So, I’m sitting in the Square having finished my orange drink and I ask the waiter, where can I find a room to rent.  At that moment, along came Costas.  Very quickly we established that Greek was the only language he knows but anyway, loads my pack into the boot of his car and we set off to view his Traditional Hotel on the village outskirts approximately 200m from the Square.  Walked into the most amazing lounge/bar.  Would I like a sweet – no thank you  – Tsipouraki (Greek firewater in a shot glass) – yes please.  Sat on the leather lounges and conversed for quite some time and then reminded Costas I had come to see the rooms.  Viewed two – luxury accommodation complete with a fireplace in every room – normally costing 85 to 120 Euro per night and I believe that to be very reasonable.  I asked how much to which he replied I don’t want you to leave, is 30 Euro per night okay?  Yes, thank you.    

Settled myself in before venturing out for a walk in the fresh mountain air – the only sounds those of bees gathering nectar to make honey and the birds.  Before leaving, the invitation was made to dine together in the evening.  Costas wife and children were at their home in Geraki and for the first time ever, I had the honour of being the only guest in the hotel – I felt like a queen in a palace.    

Around maybe 2000 hours I was sitting reading in the lounge when Costas (in his early 40’s) returned.  He made coffee which we drank whilst conversing at length about everything from the state of the Greek economy to what, in the end, became our catch phrase – You are free – I am jealous!  Although the temperature had been somewhere around 30 degrees C during the day, in the evening there was a definite chill in the air and so the fire was lit and the whole atmosphere became even more unreal.  All of these things were done very quietly and without fuss – Costas laboured away in the kitchen until around 2230 hours when the call came – we are ready.  Delicious macaroni with feta cheese mixed through and a fresh tomato, onion and garlic sauce.  Accompanied by a shared plate of fried aubergine slices, pale green peppers and the most wonderful cheese.  Costas’ own red wine – with an unimaginable clarity of colour, smell and taste.  Except, of course, maybe the local water which is divine, there doesn’t exist anything better.  Consumed copious amounts as we retired to the computer screen selection of music – a mix of both Greek and English.    

Some time in the early hours went outside to see the stars – you cannot imagine how still and quiet a place can be.  The hotel name translates to “Neighbour to the Sky”.  When I mentioned the old man had given me roses from his garden – and I’ve got roses he said, where upon he went outside returning with three beautiful blooms.  Eventually said goodnight around 0430 hours and awoke yesterday about 1230 hours feeling very much okay.  Then repeated everything all over again only last night dinner consisted of an omelet filled with potatoes and smoked ham, Greek salad, chips and more of the same yummy aubergine slices and cheese and more wine.  However, to bed around 0200 hours since I knew somehow today I had to wrench myself away.   

I urge you all to check this place out on www.ouranogiton.gr  You should be able to translate the site to English but if not, enjoy the photographs anyway.  The hotel was only built three years’ ago and their custom to date has come mainly from Athenians, Israelis, Germans and English – particularly during the Winter when there is snow and at weekends.  But let us not forget one intrepid traveller from New Zealand – ME!    

YOU ARE FREE – I AM JEALOUS!

Helmut and Ursula on arrival in Kosmas

And so it was to be, two nights in Leonidio to be followed by two nights in Kosmas.  The reality is, there is no public transport between the two places and so it was that I set off to attempt to make auto stop (hitching a ride) to Kosmas.  A very hot day and a heavy pack and I waited and I waited.  Not a lot of traffic, however, decided I may have been standing in an unlucky spot and so I moved a little further up the road under the shade of a mulberry tree.  Eventually a Greek man conversed with me, he said I wouldn’t get a lift from there and suggested I walk uphill to the town boundary from where he believed it would happen for me. 

There I made the acquaintance of an elderly Greek man who spoke very good English, having been a seaman and travelled the world to every place he said except Australia and New Zealand.  Presented me with a bunch of roses with amazing fragrance that he had picked in the morning from his garden.  He used my mobile to telephone a relative he thought may be driving to Sparti that day but she had already departed.   The darling left me by the side of the road as he set off on his daily one hour walk, complete with walking stick, for the good of his health.  Naturally, he wished for me to be no longer there on his return and I wasn’t, because along came Helmut and Ursula, a German couple, in their camper van.  

They were heading for Monemvasia and merely stopped to study their map.  I approached them and when they realised they were not on the route they had intended to take, as luck would have it, they changed  their route in order to get me to Kosmas.  The road was winding and takes one higher and higher into the mountains where at about the halfway point, you come to the Monastery of Panagias Elonas.  Fortunately, Helmut and Ursula were also keen to visit there and so it was that we walked the final kilometre to see this remote and beautiful place. 

On reaching the mountain village of Kosmas, we stopped at the Square, it was photograph time, I bid them farewell and sat down at a cafe for a much needed cool orange drink.  Since the contact I had for Kosmas Studios had not confirmed anything with me, my next move was to find somewhere to stay.  Then, along came Costas No.2.

Daytime street view of Traditional Restaurant - Leonidio

The one thing I did not realise when I took the room in Leonidio was that it’s location on the main road into town meant the crazy Greek drivers would not have slowed down at that point coming into town, nor that they would have already gained speed on their way out.  That first night I enjoyed a meal at a local taverna.  With the temperature predicted to be 30 degrees C the following day, I retired early at 2230 hours, only to be faced with a lousy night.  Peace shattering noisy cars, scooters and motorbikes.  A dog which did not let up barking for hours.  Another guest in the middle of the night sicking up somewhere within hearing.  Mosquitoes making a feast of me.  Watched television, read, ate a block of my favourite Greek chocolate Lacta, drank water – all to no avail.   

In spite of the previous night’s dramas, I set off early the following morning to discover this beautiful town.  Olive trees growing in every possible piece of ground, many very old and of gigantic proportions with gnarled trunks.  Pussycats conspicuous by their absence – perhaps many have perished under the wheels of the mad Greek drivers who seem to abound.  I wonder about all the old deserted and abandoned houses – knowing the amount of red tape and bureaucracy one must face to do anything here, it is probably not surprising.  

Before I left Spetses, Costas, who always seemed to be able to produce whatever it was I was looking for, including needle and thread to mend – gave me from his vast book collection, a copy of  ‘The Magus’ which Paddy and Wendy had recommended I read.  I managed  90 odd pages during my first day in Leonidio and have continued to find it very difficult to put down.  

A beautiful old building had caught my eye as I walked around earlier in the day, surrounded by all sorts of paraphernalia – an old cart, barrels, baskets, bottles, to some – junk, however, as I approached closer I came to realise that it was, in fact, a Traditional Restaurant offering local delicacies since 1904.  Returned there at 1300 hours,  to be told it would be open only in the evening from 1900 hours and I knew I would have to return then to sample their fare.  Settled for a wood fired oven Pizza Tzakoniki – feta, olives, onions, tomato, cheese, capsicum – all washed down with yet another 1/4 litre of delicious red wine from the barrel.  

The next morning I descended downstairs to say my farewells.  There I met Heidi, a German lady who like me, first visited Greece in the early 70’s.  Among other things she now escorts small groups of people through this wonderful land – currently six in her group and they also dined at the same Restaurant the previous evening.  Insisted I partake of a small cheese pie and a strawberry while my lovely host produced a glass of freshly squeezed orange.  Most welcome.  Their parting words to me “Good Luck” – the next chapter in my journey will go some way to explaining why.

My last image of Costas on Spetses for now

Naturally, I spent my last evening on Spetses in Bar Spetsa.  Paddy and Wendy called in to say farewell and Costas and I arranged to meet at 0915 hours for the final time (at least for now anyway) to have coffee together.  At 1000 hours I was aboard the ferry boat bound for Kosta – a large degree of sadness as you can all imagine leaving Costas and Spetses behind, however, so many wonderful memories. 

A bus to Kranidi just a short distance away where I hopped on another bound for Nafplion, at least that was what I intended.  Some two hours or so later, as I was thinking to myself are we ever going to reach there – oops!  Realised we were about to cross the Corinth Canal where the motorway to Athens commences and there was no stopping now.  At 1400 hours we arrived at the Athens Bus Terminal.  Approached the bus driver and asked him in Greek “Do you know what happened?  I wanted to go to Nafplion and I didn’t see it.  Maybe there was a change of bus to get there?” To which he replied – I shout, I shout, change bus here for Nafplion.  You didn’t hear, you sleeping.  (Yeh, right – liar)!  I said next time you shout louder.  His reply “What you do now?” I said I don’t know and walked away from the idiot. 

Ventured to find the Ticket Office praying there would be a bus that afternoon to Leonidio.  Yes, departing at 1600 hours and the obvious question which I will always ask in future – Do I need to change bus anywhere?  In this case, no – we should arrive in Leonidio around 1945 hours.  As I passed away the time waiting, I thought to myself, big cities are similar in many ways all around the world.  There is always an element of people whose lives appear to be a lost cause.  A young boy in the cafe distributing notes which roughly translated to – My mother has epilepsy, my father died from heart, we are five children.  Give us one small help for food.  Good health you have.  Thank you. 

And so we left on the 210km journey from Athens to Leonidio, via Corinth, Argos and further south – a winding coastal road which in places literally hugs the mountainside.  Unbelievably beautiful – takes one’s breath away.  For those of you who are keen enough, take a good look at a map to see where I should have travelled that day and where my journey actually took me.  The stupid thing is, Leonidio is on the mainland from where Spetses is actually visible in the distance on a clear day and I had to make such a roundabout trip to get there. 

Quickly found a very clean and adequate room for 25 Euro per night (no Internet).  I seem to be liked by the Greek people to the same degree of fondness I have for them.  My hosts requested I keep quiet about how much they were charging me as another girl there on her own was paying 30 Euro per night.  Every time they saw me they would say “Koritsi mas” – our girl. 

It was not only I whose day did not exactly go to plan.  Costas telephoned at 2045 hours to say he was back in Bar Spetsa.  He had got as far as walking the tunnel to board the flight to Munich when it was grounded because of an ash cloud!  Oh well, just one of those days.

The Poseidonion Grand Hotel, Spetses waterfront

Last night in the Bar, Costas said “Your last day tomorrow on Spetses, would you like to go to the Poseidonion for lunch?”  “Yes, that would be really lovely” and so it was that we met, as we have done all week, at 0230 hours to have lunch together – very very nice!  I know I will feel so sad leaving Spetses – the people I have met here, the whole atmosphere of the place has been absolutely incredible.  The kindness and generosity Costas has shown to me I cannot ever forget and I know that whatever happens in the future, we will be friends for life.  Both born in 1950 and with so many of the same characteristics – hence the title to my blog a couple of days’ ago – Two Peas in a Pod.  

Otherwise, a quiet day today just relaxing and making ready for my departure tomorrow.  Looks like I will be leaving on the ferry at 1000 hours – a short trip to Kosta on the mainland – a bus to Kranidi – another to Nafplion – a very beautiful town.   However, since it was only 6 years’ ago that Doreen and I spent time there and the memories are still quite fresh in my mind, I won’t hang around.  Hoping there will be frequent buses going to Argos, from where I will travel south, arriving in Kosmas at who knows what hour.  Have negotiated a room rate there at Kosmas Studios – only awaiting now a reply to say it will be okay with them if I happen not to arrive until sometime Monday.  With the way things are here at the moment and my experiences to date with public transport, it would be stupid of me to think I could rely on a trouble free journey.  However, hopefully it will be.  Costas will leave the island 20 minutes after me, bound for Athens and on to Munich to visit his Dentist – he should only be away for two nights.  

Business was brisk in the Bar last evening being Friday, the busiest I have seen and for tonight, my last night, it should be much the same.  Nothing like it is in the summer months of July and August when Costas has tables out on the street as well and up to 900 drinks can be served in a single evening.  Not sure I would like the island nearly as much at that time.   

A final note for today – as I understand it, there is no Internet anywhere in Kosmas, so from tomorrow until at least Wednesday I will be out of contact via modern technology.  However, you can all look forward to an interesting catch up blog once I move further south, edging ever closer to Crete and time to be spent with the family.

Charming Bob in Costas garden

When I think back to the time that I was working so hard for this holiday, I could never have imagined then that it would turn out to be such an amazing time away – at least that is the case so far and I see no reason for that to change. 

The mood last night in Bar Spetsa was a little quieter than the night before when Tottenham (the football team Costassupports) were playing somewhere and believe me, there is nothing to compare with the enthusiasm Greeks show particularly to this sport.  With the telephone ringing every little while with an update and Costas going out down the road to check progress on the tele – fortunately, Tottenham won 1 – 0.   

With every night out until a late hour I haven’t been walking as much as I thought I might be.  Still this is not a problem – one cannot have it both ways and in any case, there will be heaps more opportunities for walking.  Set out this afternoon after our lunch at Taverna Spetsiotiko – I had Pastitshio, a kind of Greek style lasagna with mince, tomatoes and onions, mixed with macaroni and topped with bechamel sauce.  I can say it was possibly the best Pastitshio I have ever tasted. 

When I visited Costas this morning, this was Bob looking down on me from above.  Oliver is far more difficult to photograph as he won’t stay still for 2 seconds.  Sydney is all black and a little more timid.  Larissa the only girl who looks very much like Bob, keeps more or less to herself.  All four are very much loved and it shows – unlike so many others in this country – the vast majority are left to vend for themselves. 

When talking to my host Susan earlier today, she was telling me about an amazing Jazz singer – Jenny Hartsopoulou, who performed here on Spetses last night at The Mosquito Bar and is back tonight by popular demand.  Starting at 2200 hours (yes, everything happens so much later here) with free admittance and drinks around 7 Euro.  Susan herself is a singer and her daughter sings Opera.  If I can pull myself away from Bar Spetsa later tonight I will go check Jenny out. 

Come Sunday I will be moving on – all the way to Kosmas on the Peloponneses in one day if I can, however, it could be that I will have to have a one night stopover somewhere in between.  Once I reach Kosmas, a small village high up in the mountains, I believe there is no Internet there so don’t expect any blogs or photos from Sunday through until at least Wednesday.  If I had not met Costas then I guess I would probably have only stayed 3-4 nights here.  But I have something of a plan and I need to move on to other wonderful places – there is so much to see and to be done.  However, I do know that I will return here – maybe even before you all see me back in New Zealand.

Helen & Costas, behind the bar, Bar Spetsa

I did consider putting the photograph of Natalia Mela’s sculpture the Mermaid on this Blog, however, I decided I would give most of you the thrill of gossiping about me and my special friend Costas from Bar Spetsa.  Another enjoyable evening spent in the Bar last night – I’m sure it will continue to be compulsory visiting until I leave this island Sunday.  Yes, the decision has been made to catch the boat to Porto Heli, not far away on the Peloponesses mainland, then as many buses as it takes to reach the mountain village of Kosmas further south – hopefully this will all happen in one day.  Unfortunately, ferry services have been seriously cut  in recent years and there is no easy way to move south from this point.  

On today’s walk I remembered to photograph one of the small 3 wheeler utilities which there are many of on this island.  With car ownership needing a permit which if you do have, only gives you the right to drive out of town, then for many this small 3 wheeler vehicle is a reasonable substitute which allows one to transport ‘things’ from A to B.  The only other alternatives are bikes, scooters (of which there are far too many), motorbikes and without a doubt, the best way to get around is by walking.  

The Old Harbour and surrounds are a must to visit on the island.  The lighthouse was one of the first built in Greece in 1837 and I understand it is still in operation.  Nearby you will see an open-air sculpture museum, scattered with highly imaginative animals crafted by Natalia Mela out of found objects like chains, rakes, tools and sheep bells.  Now in her 80’s, Natalia is a well known Athenian sculptor who made Spetses her summer home.  

Beyond the Old Harbour, the first beach you come to is Ayios Marina – today being visited by only one couple with a small boy.  I walked on a little further before turning around to make my way back into town with plenty of time to spare before my lunchtime rendesvous with Costas at Taverna Bouboulina – pretty much a seafood affair and as always, totally and utterly delicious!  

P.S.  It is 0130 hours here in the morning – just arrived back in my room from Bar Spetsa – following a conversation this evening with Costas, thought it appropriate to change the title of this blog to “Two Peas in a Pod”.

My slightly timid friend

That’s right – if you are following my travels and find yourself sometime in the future in this beautiful country, then you must visit Spetses.  It’s close proximity to Athens means you should be able to make it, even if you don’t have the luxury of a long stay. 

Today has been very laid back after another night out in Bar Spetsa.  Stay here long enough and I’m sure one would make all the friends you would ever need for a lifetime.  Soon I must make a difficult decision about moving on, I will probably leave Saturday before Costas leaves Sunday to visit his dentist in Munich, a connection he made in Bar Spetsa.  

Last night Costas introduced me to the music of Tom Waits – I had heard of him and his music before, however, I had never taken notice of the amazing lyrics.  Costas seems to know all the lyrics from all his songs better than I know the lyrics from any one song from any given artist.  Paddy and Wendy were back in the Bar for drinks before dinner – they had been on their daily walk to a beach on the other side of the island.  They told me about a must read book ‘The Magus’ by John Fowles – a novel partly based on the author’s experiences as an English teacher here on the island of Spetses.  Also in for drinks was a retired Harley Street eye surgeon and his wife.  Most of these people are regular visitors to the island and many have homes here.  Of course, they have the luxury of only a short flight – not a 35 hour journey from Wanganui to Athens as I had. 

Having agreed it would be stupid for me to eat alone and he also, Costas and I again today met for lunch and had wood fired oven pizza.  Costas has never eaten cheese in his life and yet they were able to make him a delicious pizza excluding cheese, the one ingredient considered to be essential in a pizza.  I’m sure on this small island everyone must be talking about us by now! 

So it has been a quiet day here for me – sorry this photo is the only one taken today.  I found him sleeping on a chair on my terrace when I got up from my siesta.  What a great life it is possible to have here.  Tomorrow I must go for another long walk – it will be helpful to clear also my head to make the all important decision of where to from here and when?