Itisallgreek2me

Jillie, Rick, Bob, Lorna and Reinhard at Taverna Petra

 With a population of around 3,000, Kastelli Kissamos is classed as a small town, not a village, however, the feeling here is much more aligned to village life and fortunately, Kastelli has not succumbed to tourist invasion.  This morning at around 0330 hours I had need to go out to the bathroom and did so to the sound of “cocka doodle do”.  Thought to myself it is rather early in the morning for our rooster to be crowing – I have to admit I get confused with daylight saving hours, perhaps in reality it was 0430 hours and of course, the rooster has no knowledge of daylight saving!  

  Wherever I am I like to begin the day with a hot shower and in fact, I can be a little grumpy if this is not possible.   Because of the high electricity charges in Greece, the family mostly rely on solar heating of the water which means if we have had an overcast day, the chances are the following morning the water will be cold or at best lukewarm.  This morning I enjoyed a wonderful hot shower following yesterday’s many hours of sunshine.   A scattering of clouds in the sky today, nevertheless, our expected high here on Crete is 29 degrees C, 30 degrees forecast for tomorrow and Sunday with clear blue skies and sunshine.  In the concrete jungle that is Athens, the people there can expect 34-35 degrees C over the next 3 days, very uncomfortable in that environment.  It seems summer has arrived here as those of you antipodeans down under prepare yourselves for winter.   

A few thoughts on other trivialities – things which have changed and/or improved in Greece over the last 37 years.  1)  Beds and pillows have always been hard, often like sleeping on concrete, however, I am very pleased to have found this year some comfortable beds to sleep on.  2)  Mayirefta, i.e. oven baked dishes, in the past were usually served cold or at best lukewarm, now they are mostly served hot as they should be.  3)  Non smoking ferries are truly non smoking, it is out on the deck if you have need to, very welcome especially on a long journey.  4)  Other than in Gythio where as I have already written, the rubbish was a major problem, elsewhere there is much less of it and the Greek people are learning about recycling.  5)  Unlike the bone shaking cattle trucks of the past, local buses are now comfortable coaches.  6)  Although in places there are still far too many neglected street cats, more are in good homes and interestingly, the family have had the female cats fixed so no more kittens but not the males and I am in no doubt that they are out and about increasing the cat population.    

Today’s lunch is in the oven – Melitzanes Papoutsakia, i.e. eggplant halves stuffed with mince and topped with bechamel sauce (similar to Moussaka), to be accompanied by a lettuce and cucumber salad, bread and wine.  In the Greek language, papoutsakia means “little shoes” and that is what they resemble.   

Jillie sent a text this morning suggesting I meet them at 1400 hours at Petra Taverna in the Square.  In our company also was Reinhard, Gijs from the Netherlands and an English couple Bob and Lorna who looked very familiar to me.  Eventually came to realise they were on the same ferry as me last week from Gythio and had stayed for two nights at the same Hotel Leonidas in Gythio.  Some 4 years’ ago they bought a fully furnished and equipped house for 70,000 Euro (NZ$140,000 approx.) in the nearby village of Ayios Giorgos which is their permanent home.   

Roma has worked this week on Jillie and Rick’s balcony.   Not finished yet so no dancing on it for now!

1st floor of family home in Kastelli Kissamos as viewed from the hill

My apologies for no blog posted yesterday – bleak weather meant nothing much to do, nothing much to write about.  The previous evening I had helped Katina making six large pizzas, now in the freezer, ready for the oven when unexpected guests arrive.  That night a mosquito bite on my right hand, small finger has resulted in my hand becoming very swollen and itchy – such a reaction never have I had in my life which makes me wonder what that mosquito was carrying.  First my toe, then my finger, I am not awaiting a third injury! 

An interesting news item on Wednesday, thousands of frogs in Northern Greece invaded a highway.  Causing a handful of accidents and paralysing traffic, experts were at a loss to explain this bizarre phenomenon.  When I have need to use the outside toilet at night, I often see frogs hopping across the courtyard as they hurry to return to their hiding places. 

Today dawned with a clear blue sky and sunshine, just as I remember all days used to be here in Springtime.  This morning I photographed the plant Diktamos (Dittany of Crete) which the family have growing in a pot in the garden.  Endemic only to Crete, it’s natural habitat is in the mountains and gorges, a herbaceous plant used in tea and many beauty preparations.  When I had my cottage industry Hellenic Herbs, prior to entering the world of real estate, Dittany of Crete was my logo. 

Have not long finished a delicious lunch of Yemista  (tomatoes, courgettes, capsicums, courgette flowers, grapevine leaves – stuffed with a mixture of rice, parsley, mint, dill, vlita, onion and baked in the oven) served with natural yoghurt, Greek salad, bread and wine.  For those of you who recall my talking about food here, especially in the family home, being to die for – a classic example would be Yemista.  In the past I have been used to being served a glass of warm goat’s milk at breakfast.  Alas, not to be at this time, the goat she is pregnant and due to give birth in 10 days’ time. 

With the sun shining and a very pleasant 24 degrees C, set off after lunch for a walk, heading first up the hill to the cemetery.  Costas and his two brothers are buried there – prime location above the town.  Wandered on down an alternate road to the centre of town and the Square, eventually reaching the lovely harbour where there are many tavernas, cafes and bars.  West of the town you will find a tiny harbour, home to small fishing boats and further on the Port at which I arrived a week ago. 

With summer edging ever closer Greek children, who must attend school from the age of 6 to 15, are looking forward to their long summer holidays.  The school year begins here around 10 September, intermediate and senior students begin their summer holidays from 20 May or thereabouts and the juniors from around 10 June.  During the remainder of the year they have no school on Public Holidays and two weeks off at Christmas and again over Easter.  

One week has passed since I arrived, soon I will be saying my farewells, however, I do plan to return for a stay of a similar duration later in the year.

Billy with neighbourhood friend

A quiet day spent here at home in Kastelli Kissamos – unable to wear even sandals today as I await my aloe vera wrapped toe to heal.  In any case, not a day for the beach or venturing too far.  Rain this afternoon – like everywhere around the world, the weather does not know what it should do.  When Dave and I were here 3 years’ ago, it was unbelievably hot for Springtime, hotter than most summers.  Fortunately, I will still be in Greece when the summer weather does arrive.    

Earlier today I was reading an excerpt from the New York Times News Service Athens dated 22 May 2010 – it read something like this.  In the wealthy suburbs of Athens, where summer temperatures often hit the high 30’s, just 324 residents ticked the box on their tax returns admitting they owned swimming pools.  When tax investigators studied satellite photos of the area – a sprawling collection of exclusive villas tucked behind tall gates – they came back with a decidedly different number of 16,974 pools.  For more go to www.thespec.com/News/Discover/article/773656 and click on THE GOOD LIFE IN Greece.    

On the same theme, The News has been reporting at length on the resignation of Angela Gerekou, Deputy Tourism Minister and former actress, after officials said her husband Tolis Voskopoulos, a popular singer and former film star, owes nearly US$7m in unpaid taxes.  Furthermore, the Foreign Ministry has named 57 Athens doctors who they believe are guilty of tax evasion.    

It is difficult to comprehend all of this when I know that the greater percentage of the 11 million or so Greek people are struggling to make ends meet – I suspect a succession of corrupt Governments and a corrupt minority of greedy people have brought about the current crisis.  Today Anna opened her purse – inside only a  photograph of Costas, her much loved son who arrived some 10 years after her other four children then was taken at the young age of just 39.    

On a lighter note, this Saturday the Eurovision Song Contest final will be televised live from Oslo, Norway.  On Tuesday night we watched the first semi final and Greece made it through with their entry ‘Opa’ performed by Giorgos Alkaios and friends.  A performance with much energy and the added beautiful sound of the Greek Lyra.  Tonight the second semi final will go to air.  In New Zealand it means nothing, however, here in Greece it is always a very popular event.  Should the Greek contestant do well, we will hear about it continually for days to come.    

To save confusion, please note I added no new images to my More Photos page either yesterday or today.

Kastelli Kissamos

The Greek debt crisis is far from over and when one talks with the people here, I wonder how it is that they manage to make ends meet at all.  The price they have to pay for the basic necessities of life – a roof over their heads, food, health care, electricity, telephone, petrol (over NZ$3 per litre) and  for those who have work, long hours for as little as 3 Euro per hour (approx. NZ$6).   

I believe this situation has arisen from malpractice on the part of both Government and some citizens and must be linked to an inadequate tax collection regime.  Many self employed individuals tend to keep two sets of books – one with the true revenue received and another to show the Government, with tax inspectors more than happy to accept bribes.  Greeks in the public sector work on average only 7 months a year.  They retire in their 50’s whereupon they start receiving 14 monthly pension payments per year!  The Government’s proposed austerity measures will force citizens to tighten their belts further with cost cutting measures including reviewing public sector salaries, raising taxes and slashing pensions.  Clearly not all citizens are guilty of these practices, however, all citizens will have to pay a price one way or another.   

Started the day by dropping a can of hairspray on my toe – yes it hurt, however, I did not think too much about the black toenail that developed until late this afternoon, by which time it had become quite painful.  Anna has now wrapped it in a slice of juicy aloe vera and bound all my toes with a bandage.  I must have faith in this herbal intervention if I want to put on shoes next week to walk the 18 kilometre long Samaria Gorge.  Enjoyed a walk around Kastelli this afternoon.  Saw our German friend Reinhard from Saturday night and he invited me to meet with him, Jilly and Rick at Taverna Petra in the Square for a drink.  Pleasant interlude – they were off to the beach, I came home to rest my toe.   

Wonderful smell of garlic coming from the kitchen earlier – Katina was making Skordalia, a thick puree made from potatoes, bread, garlic, olive oil, vinegar and salt.  I see it is now on the table to be part of our evening meal – with fried fish it is delicious!   

My final words of the day – for anyone considering visiting Greece in the near future, do not be put off by the events taking place, there is so much more to be enjoyed and no real reason to stay away.

Yanni and I at Vanna and Roma's, Kastelli Kissamos

This weekend, 50 days after Easter Sunday, is Holy Spirit weekend, with Monday being a Public Holiday.  A time when those who have passed are particularly remembered.  Yesterday after breakfast, Anna and I sat at the table and I mostly listened as she told me many things about Costas’ last weeks and days, knowledge of which I did not have prior.  A few tears, however, very therapeutic for us both.  Katina had left the house early with a bowl of Koliva to take to the church up on the hill by the cemetery.  In the Greek Orthodox Religion, Koliva is a dish that is heavy with ritual significance.  It is more metaphor than food, really, symbolising the circle of death andrebirth.  Wheat berries represent the promise of everlasting life, the raisins the sweetness of life and the spices are symbols of plenty.  The dish is traditionally served only in a few specific circumstances, including the beginning of Lent and during memorial services.  Each family prepares it’s own Koliva in memory of those they have lost and then they share it with the congregation.    

The weather here like everywhere has been something of a mixed bag – a little rain, one minute overcast, the next sunshine.  It is now almost 1500 hours Sunday afternoon and no sign as yet of the three younger ones I came home with at 0530 hours this morning – all three, Vassilis, Joanna and Yanni, still fast asleep upstairs.  Vanna, Anna’s eldest grandchild is married to Roma, a Russian and yesterday Vanna’s son Manolis arrived home on leave from his army service – also his 24th birthday.  Vanna loves to cook and it is not unusual to find oneself at their home on a Saturday night, sharing great food, wine and music with family and friends.  Last night was one of those nights.    

Can’t tell you how many of us were there last evening – a very long table stretching the full length of the room.  On such occasions  time has no meaning and almost anything can become the topic of conversation.  Guests included Jillie (or Chillie) and Rick, an English couple I first met at Vanna and Roma’s three years’ ago.  For sometime now, they have been renovating an old house near the village of Kampos about an hour’s drive from Kastelli and they try to spend at least two months out of every year here.  Roma is to build their balcony this week and I hope to be able to visit them there before I move on next Sunday.    

Jillie was anxious that I should appear in many of the photographs and so it was that she took control of the camera.  Unfortunately, I did not explain that one needs to allow time for the camera to focus before shooting and therefore, some frames are not as clear as they otherwise might have been.  However, I believe they still do capture the atmosphere.     

A night of partying and celebration – a good time was had by one and all.  Today we maybe paying the price a little but all I can say is – it was well worth it and I will do it all over again should the opportunity arise next Saturday or any other time in the future.

Anna preparing Horta for lunch

The sight of the ferry boat “Kornaros” arriving yesterday at Gythio was one to warm my heart – to know that I would soon be on my way to the family in Kastelli Kissamos, Crete – my Greek home.  Here where I have so many memories gathered since first arriving in the town way back in 1981.    

I was surprised as I made the six and a half hour journey, that I really wasn’t feeling any great emotion, however, as soon as I stepped off the ferry, I knew that I was home.  Shared a taxi with others – arriving at the house around 2200 hours, to find Anna, the family matriarch (88) – Costas’ mother and Katina, the daughter-in-law who lovingly takes care of Anna, awaiting me and upstairs Vassilis, son of Katina.  Normally by 2100 hours Anna has retired upstairs, however, last night they were all waiting for me to have dinner together.  Boureki (Greek vegetable pie), Horiatiki Salata (Greek salad made with ingredients from their garden including fresh basil and purslane), chops, tzatziki (yoghurt with cucumber and garlic) and wine.    

When Dave and I were here 3 years’ ago, Vassilis had a German Shepherd named Liko.  Sadly he was hit by a car not so long ago but has been replaced with Billy – a 9 month old puppy of a breed I don’t know, highly intelligent and gorgeous!  Some time ago, Vassilis found a tiny kitten in a box by the roadside.  He brought it home and Katerina, a great grand daughter of Anna’s who loves animals, came daily to feed the kitten, initially by way of an eyedropper.   This cat gave birth to 4 kittens upstairs in Vassilis bedroom.  Another cat with 3 kittens took hers one by one upstairs through the window and the two mothers looked after the 7 kittens together.  3 kittens have gone to other homes, leaving 4 cats here now.  Sadly, the two mothers met their deaths on the road.   Billy likes to play with one of these cats and they are pretty much inseparable – it is a delight to behold.  Billy takes the cat by the scruff of it’s neck and swings it around and around – much to the cat’s delight and to those of us watching on.  Billy is happy to share his food with this cat only – the other three, no.    

Lunch today will be Psari (fish) with Horta me Kolokithakia –  various greens from the garden, Stifno, Vlita, Parsley, Courgette flowers and leaves, young Tomato leaves and baby Courgettes, dressed with olive oil and lemon.  The food I enjoy here in their home you will never find in a restaurant – only a commercial version of the same.    

Anna has 12 grandchildren (11 living) and 16 great grand children.  Big Vassilis (a grandson of Anna’s) called by this morning – I don’t expect to see many others before tomorrow when Yanni and Joanna, two of Katina’s children and Manolis, son of Vanna, great grandson of Anna who is currently serving his statutory time in the army, are all due here in Kastelli.  Today Vanna is busy preparing a feast for Manolis’ home coming and of course, tomorrow all will be invited to their home.     

Catching up and so much more catching up still to come over the next few days.  So much to enjoy – the hospitality, the company, the food, the wine, the music and hopefully the weather will improve on what it is today.  Not at all cold, however, overcast – who cares anyway.  I am here – nothing else really matters.

Vegetable garden & Olive tree, Gythio

My last day today in Gythio – tomorrow I will be moving on, hopefully to Crete, however, if this is not possible, then a bus to Areopolis.  

A quiet relaxing day compared with most others – a walk around the town this morning, wanted to locate the site of an Ancient Theatre here.  Eventually found, however, a small and somewhat neglected area.  Only a handful of photographic opportunities – including a truckload of small chickens, a well tended spring vegetable garden, a local moggy and viewed from my window, a rusty looking ship.  I would much rather see a ferry boat there tomorrow.  

Spent a couple of hours sitting at an outdoor cafe, reading ‘The Magus’ and enjoying a vanilla milkshake – reminded me so much of when Dave and I were in Greece 3 years’ ago and all the chocolate milkshakes he enjoyed.  Dave has been sending me the loveliest of emails, written from the heart, telling me exactly how he is feeling.  I understand he is sometimes lonely and misses me a lot.  I miss him too but I believe he is coping very well.  

A return this evening to Restaurant Poulikakos.  Not wanting to be faced again with a plate piled high with food, ventured into the kitchen to see what was on offer.  I knew I wanted something simple oven baked so requested one plate with a little from three different dishes  – Bamies (okra) and Melitzanes (aubergine) cooked with potatoes in a tomato and onion sauce with olive oil and herbs and Pepperia Yemista (stuffed pale green pepper).  Perfect – thoroughly enjoyed!  A table of ten arrived soon after me, I believe may have been Polish – someone dispatched to the fishmonger on motorbike to buy fresh seafood.  

I will publish this Post this evening, however, look for an edit tomorrow when I know for sure what is happening.  Also, bear in mind wherever I go, until I arrive there I won’t know whether or not I will have WiFi Internet available.  

THURSDAY 20 May 2010, 0900 hours.  Just returned from the Ticket Office and YES, the ferry will operate today.  I must return in one hour to get my ticket – the ferry leaves at 1500 hours.  I know that three of the family households in Kastelli Kissamos have computers and two have email addresses so hoping at least one may be on WiFi Internet.  I will be in contact again soon.

Mavrovouni Beach

Firstly, my apologies to those of you who found nothing new to read on my site with your morning coffee.  Unfortunately, yesterday my Internet crashed and I lost the draft of what I had written before I could publish it – can’t tell you the frustration it caused me!  Never mind, better late than never.  

As I said I would, ventured out the night before to find a good Restaurant serving fresh local fish – there are many, however, liked very much the one I found, Restaurant Poulikakos.  Feasted on Barbounakia (small red mullet) – six of them all laid out beautifully on the plate, accompanied with patates tiganetes (fries cooked in olive oil, of course), a simple salad of domates, kremethi and elies (tomato, red onion and olives) and a little psomi (bread) which is always so crusty and yummy – I can’t resist it.  

Yesterday at 0800 hours I embarked on a 2 kilometre walk to Mavrovouni Beach.  Going at my usual casual pace, I arrived there about one hour later.  Another very long sandy beach and at that time, totally deserted.  Lay down to enjoy my first true sunbathing session – how good it feels to have the sun on your body and to be in such beautiful surroundings.  With possessions in hand, went for a walk further along the beach until I came to a spot where I felt I was ready to take my first plunge into the crystal clear blue waters.  Made it in up to my waist only, still a tad too cold for me.  As I recall it was the 1st of June 3 years’ ago before I had my first swim here in Greece so maybe I will have to wait a little longer.   

It was a hot road for my walk back to Gythio.  Stopped around the half way point for one of those Magnum type white chocolate ice creams.  An upper road through the town was also welcome – away from the traffic and crazy Greek drivers.  

Costas telephoned around midday in very high spirits to say he was back home on Spetses.  He had heard that airports in the U.K. were again closed and he was afraid of becoming stranded in Munich so changed his flight to an earlier one at great expense, arrived in Athens to find he had missed the last hydrofoil to Spetses and so again, at great expense, he had taken a taxi I presume to Kosta on the mainland and a ferry home from there.  I understand he is missing me.  

Last evening returned to Restaurant Poulikakos for a meal of Makaronia with Kima (spaghetti bolognese).  Very tasty, I only wish they would serve me smaller meals which I ask for – a plate piled high with more than I can manage I find off putting and of course, a lot of good food is wasted.  

I will spend today around the town, a few things I must do – awaiting of course the news tonight as to whether or not I will be on my way to Crete tomorrow.  Trying to think positive, however, if it doesn’t eventuate then I will take a bus to Areopolis which isn’t too far away, spend a week working my way up through the Mani to Kalamata, in the hope that the ferry will operate from there next Thursday.

Sunrise viewed from my window, Leonidas Hotel, Gythio

Arose this morning at 0600 hours after what was for me, one of my better night’s of sleep.  Many of you will know that sleep is something which for me does not come easy – I wish I knew why.  Opened the shutters to await the sunrise which came at exactly 0630 hours – up over the mountains and glistening across the sea, magical.  I had gone downstairs to the lounge at 0600 hours and again at 0700 hours, only to find the Net wasn’t connected and the stupid idiot (two adjectives I’ve become fond of using to describe situations and/or persons) who was supposed to be manning the Reception, lying on a lounge, snoring his head off – still there when I went out at 0800 hours. 

Another day in Paradise had dawned – set off to walk to Lakonikas Bay where I had read there was a long sandy beach, the rusted hulk of a ship and that it was home to Caretta Caretta Loggerhead Sea Turtles – both adult and nests.  Even went prepared for my first swim. 

I know I went on about this yesterday – the subject of rubbish on the streets.  Could not believe my eyes with the pile I came across within the town boundary – if nothing else, it must be a health hazard.  Is this how it always is or are the rubbish truck drivers on strike?  Ironically there are signs posted all over town which translate to It Is Forbidden To Drop Rubbish In The Street.  Hopefully these will be my last words on the subject. 

Removed my walking shoes and socks at the first sandy beach I came to – the water was refreshingly cool.  Reached Lakonikas Bay after some one and a half hours of walking – yes, a long sandy beach, however, with a rocky foreshore.  I was not brave enough to go right into the water and swim – I am someone who likes to know the depth and I must know my feet can touch the bottom.  Sat and rested on a large rock by the wreck of the ship Dimitris – sadly I saw neither adult Loggerhead Sea Turtles nor nests of their young.   Came across two dwellings nearby occupied by what I can only presume were lifestylers.  Wanted to talk with the people there, however, with a chain across the entrance I decided not to – their privacy, their domain.  From one dwelling drifted the melodic tones of a woman singing. 

The return walk was just as enjoyable, however, I have got to say I am developing a distinct dislike for all motorised forms of transport, except of course when it is necessary.  One sees so much more on foot – you do not know what awaits around the next corner and when there is something to delight you, you can stop and take it all in – by sight, smell or hearing.  

This morning I telephoned the family in Kastelli Kissamos to say I would be arriving there around 2120 hours Thursday evening.  On arrival back in town decided to visit the Ticket Office to be sure of my plans.  Everything is now uncertain – I am told the ferry may not operate, they could be on strike and I won’t know for sure until late on Wednesday.  I do not want to hang around Gythio waiting for next week’s ferry which also may not eventuate so if I cannot go to Crete this week, I believe I will adopt a Plan B – travel elsewhere and leave Crete until sometime later on.  Just as well I have the luxury of freedom and time. 

Ventured out for lunch then realised I was not overly hungry.  Bought a slice of Galopita (milk pie, something like a custard slice) which would satisfy my appetite until tonight – some nice fresh local fish will go down well.  Another good night’s sleep to follow then tomorrow I will be ready for more exploration.

RHS view from my window - Hotel Leonidas, Gythio

My last evening in Monemvasia spent eating cake and drinking tea in an outdoor waterfront cafe until it became too windy and too dark to read.  Retired early knowing I had an early start today.  

A day when everything seemed to be running on Greek time, i.e. anytime, something which has always irked me.  The 0700 hours breakfast start time, when I considered I would partake of a couple of rushed pieces of toast and coffee to set me up for the day – was 0715 hours – the time my bus was due to leave.  A bus which, as it turned out, eventually left at 0725 hours.  Just 30 minutes on the road, the three passengers that we were, asked to get off at a town and told by the driver, he would be back to pick us up again.  What that was all about, I’m sure not even God would know!  Perhaps for his morning coffee (not cigarette, the bus drivers have that and talk on their mobiles whilst negotiating bends in the road).  Returned 30 minutes later with a smile on his face – maybe he’d been home for a quick visit to the wife!  

It is always interesting making such bus travel as one is never taken directly to their destination but rather via many small towns and villages on the way – leaving and returning to the major road as you go.  Arrived in Sparti 0945 hours, quick check of the timetable board told me the next bus departing for Gythio would be at 1130 hours.  A quick toilet stop and on to the ticket office – no, bus to Gythio leaves in 5 minutes at 1000 hours!  Oh well, at least that was one change to my advantage.  

Arrived 1100 hours – my first stop Hotel Aktaion, a beautiful old neoclassical building on the waterfront with all rooms having a balcony and sea views but no Internet.  Next stop the neighbouring Hotel Leonidas – WiFi Internet, however, no connection in the rooms, only from the downstairs lounge.  Cheapest room on the 2nd floor 35 Euro per night, no balcony but with a wonderful sea view from the window.  This will be my home for the next four days.  

With a permanent population of approximately 5,000, there will be plenty for me to do and see.  Visitors here to Gythio, where the atmosphere feels much more like island than mainland, are primarily Greeks and Greek Americans.  I enjoyed a particularly good Greek Salad with bread and wine at a waterfront establishment then thought it appropriate that the first place I visit be the small island of Kranai, connected by a causeway, where Paris and Helen left for Troy after he abducted her from King Menelaous in nearby Sparta.  The small church graffiti-ed and in a general state of disrepair.  Rubbish and general litter about like I have not seen in Greece since my visits in the early days – not good, not right, actually shameful.      

On arrival here today the weather was stunning and 23 degrees C but then the wind came up and rather spoilt things.  Not yet sure about tomorrow’s programme, however, whatever I decide to do I must be out early to make the most of my time here in this beautiful  part of the Peloponneses.  

P.S.  Spoke with Costas from Bar Spetsa around midday today.  He was back at Athens Airport and bound for Munich.