Itisallgreek2me

Finiki village, Karpathos

Left the computer last evening to take my stroll down to the beach and Restaurant Finiki View for dinner.  Simple meal of spaghetti bolognaise with my usual 1/4 litre red wine, plus a little extra forced, if you can believe that, upon me by Panayiotes.  Finished with complimentary Greek yoghurt topped with an orange based preserve – delicious!  Travelling alone, for me is nothing, I feel that I have the whole world travelling with me via my website and when I am dining, I keep company with my feline friends.  Last night I felt such empathy for one ginger boy with a lame foot – of course, he shared my dinner.  I cannot understand those people who leave food on their plates and ignore the hungry cats surrounding them.  Back to my room for a peaceful night’s rest, interestingly, there are no mosquitoes here on Karpathos.  Everywhere I travelled prior to my arrival here, they made a feast of my sweet blood.

I am told Finiki is the place the locals come to when they wish to consume the freshest caught fish.  Currently, tourists appear to be outnumbering the Karpathonians, mainly couples from Europe in their 50’s and 60’s, especially French and Germans.  Today before lunch I stretched my legs walking around and about Finiki village.  Saw houses under construction, new, old and crumbling – I want to investigate the real estate prices here, I assume they will be cheaper than on Crete and certainly Spetses.

My lunch today, ham and cheese omelette, bread and a Mythos beer – Heineken unavailable until a new delivery arrives, however, Amstel is still my preferred hop beverage.  Cold, sweet watermelon to follow – again replete and off across the road to the beach for the afternoon.  Panayiotes certainly knows how to bring in the diners – to anyone walking by he will say “Welcome, welcome” – strike up a conversation if he can in any one of a variety of languages and on occasions, he will recruit customers to stay here at the Hotel or to eat at their other restaurant in Pigadia.                                          

One more day in Finiki – Friday I will be moving on.

Finiki Beach early evening, Karpathos

Last evening discovered an alternate route to the harbour and Restaurant Finiki View via stairs rather than the road.   A number of unoccupied houses, most probably used only for a month or two in the summer.   For the second night in a row I was given a small plate of giant beans in sauce to consume with my red wine whilst awaiting my main meal – last night Bridzola (grilled pork chop) with patates tiganetes (fries) and salad.  The pork at home is nothing like the pork here which is much darker in colour and far more tasty.  Finished with another plate of delicious watermelon.

Up early this morning to walk to the small town of Arkasa 2km from here – left at 0745 hours as I wanted to beat the heat of the day.  Wandering through the narrow streets and alleys, I was surprised how picturesque the town is – from afar it appears rather drab and uninteresting, however, many of the houses have pleasant courtyards and gardens and I rather liked the somewhat unusual colour schemes of some of the dwellings.  As well as a few bars and restaurants in Arkasa, there are 2 supermarkets and a periptero, i.e. kiosk like you find all over Greece, where I was able to purchase a few necessities.  Apart from one small sandy beach I saw nearby, the coastline is rocky and unsuitable for sunbathing and swimming.

On my return to Finiki it was time for an early lunch – Horiatiki Salata (Greek salad) with a difference – shredded cabbage, tomato, cucumber, onion, capsicum, olives, assorted greens including rocket and purslane, topped with a generous slice of feta, olive oil and vinegar left to pour on as much as wanted.  With fresh crusty bread and a cold Heineken – replete and ready for an afternoon on the beach. 

Finiki is just 19km from Pigadia, the capital and main port of Karpathos.  For anyone with limited time and more cash than me, there is an International Airport on Karpathos, 10km from Finiki, with I understand flights to and from several UK and European destinations.

If you have been following my travels since the beginning or you have read my website page About Helen, you will know that I have taken leave from my Real Estate work to make this intrepid 6 month journey.  I just wanted to let you all know that my boss, Steve Carkeek, has made me aware of the closing of the Wanganui First National office where I worked, the victim of a real estate environment showing few signs of life.  The firm will merge with the Professionals office at the end of June and so, as far as I know now, I will become part of that team on my return to New Zealand in October.  It is not something I need to concern myself with at the present time – I am in Greece to have fun and follow my dreams.

Sunset viewed from my terrace, Hotel Finiki View

Finished updating my website last evening just in time to catch the amazing sunset.  A walk down to Finiki View Restaurant for a light dinner only, since I had a substantial fish meal at lunchtime.  Decided on a cheese, ham and tomato omelette with a small side salad with, of course, bread and wine.  Another complimentary plate of watermelon to follow – can you imagine how wonderful it is having that sweet, cool water going down your throat when it is so hot, so very very hot! 

Many accommodation establishments have a mini library of books you can borrow, most are left by travellers who have finished with them and so it is an excellent way of recycling and sharing reading material.  Last night I found a book “Hotel du Lac” by Anita Brookner, Winner of the Booker Prize and it is a great read.  Don’t know whether having something to read in bed last night contributed to my great night’s sleep and/or whether it was as a result of the wonderful restful day and sea air.

Felt hungry early today so made it brunch instead of lunch at Finiki View Restaurant, of course, where else!  Toasted sandwich and a Vanilla Milkshake then straight across the road to the beach where I spent some 4 hours.  A lovely fine sandy beach and you do not have to venture out very far before the water is over your head.

Included in the images posted today is a photograph of Fox, the resident puppy at Hotel Finiki View.  Fox is so gorgeous, continually wants to play and he is a real hit with all the guests – everyone just loves him.

This morning I went on line to check out ferry timetables etc and herewith, my proposed itinerary for the next 2 – 3 weeks.

Friday 18 June  –  1130 bus to Pigadia, Karpathos staying 1 night Sunrise Hotel.  Saturday 19 June  –  2155 ferry from Pigadia to Rhodes, arriving Rhodes Sunday 20 June  –  0220 hours.  0900 catamaran from Rhodes to Nisyros, arriving Nisyros 1145 hours (probably staying 1 week at Nisyros-Romantzo in Mandraki, the main port and capital).  Sunday 27 June  –  0600 ferry from Nisyros to Astypalea, arriving Astypalea 1125 hours.  Thursday 1 July  –  0430 ferry to Kalymnos, arriving Kalymnos 0650 hours.  From Kalymnos there are plenty of ferries to my next stop – Leros, likewise then on to Patmos, as these 3 islands are in close proximity to each other.  If you are wondering about the sometimes seemingly ridiculous hours that I will be catching ferries, bear in mind that they may have begun their journey or will continue their journey to somewhere far away such as the port of Piraeus in Athens.  Fortunately, I have found an excellent website www.gtp.gr which has up-to-date information on all shipping companies timetables.  This helps, however, still takes some figuring out.

So, you will see, I have 4 nights and 3 more days to relax and enjoy myself in Finiki.

Swimming pool and view from Hotel Finiki View, Finiki, Karpathos

Caught the 0930 hours bus yesterday morning from Hania to Iraklion, did wonder there for a bit whether or not I was going to make it in time.  Antonia was to take me to the bus station and 15 minutes before departure, she was still fluffing around preparing their lunchtime meal.  Never mind, if you miss this bus you can catch the next an hour later – no, I said, I want to allow myself plenty of time.  Arrived safely in Iraklion soon after 1200 hours, a relatively short walk to the Port and all fed and watered ready to catch the ferry boat Prevali at 1350 hours.  Interesting to watch a film crew working soon after the boat docked, a scene portraying a young, long haired, Greek man disembarking and being met by an elderly gentleman dressed all in black – obviously an emotional meeting after a long absence.  

First stop some 3 hours later in Sitia at the eastern end of Crete, just enough time for passengers and vehicles to leave and board and off again for another 4 1/2 hours travelling to Karpathos, via the small island of Kassos.  Very little to do, however, John from Nigeria (on his way to work in a hotel on the island of Kos, some sort of dance and comedy routines) kept me entertained for a while with his persistence to have me change my plans to visit and spend time with him on Kos – was never going to be a happening!   

I always mean to include in my blogs some of the poorly translated signs etc that one sees – here is one from the Bar/Cafe Menu on the boat yesterday which brought a smile to my face.  “Complaining forms can be found at the exit of the bar”.  Don’t you just love it!  

Arrived in Pigadia, capital of Karpathos on the eastern coast and it’s main port more or less on time, to find the place buzzing.  On Friday night I had been able to book my accommodation on line from Chrissoula’s house and my instructions were to make my way to restaurant Mama Maria to await a taxi which would take me to Hotel Finiki View, in the small and picturesque fishing village of Finiki on the west coast.  No sooner had we begun the journey when another taxi driver coming in the opposite direction began arguing with my driver – I am not exactly sure what it was all about, however, I believe 2 taxis were booked to bring me here.  Costing 24 Euro, a rather expensive trip when you compare it with a 7 1/2 hour ferry boat journey for just 18 Euro.  Never mind, I have a delightful, spacious, studio room at a special on line booking rate of just 100 Euro for 4 nights, complete with kitchen (which I probably will not use) and the little things like a plug which fits the handbasin, a plastic basin to wash clothes in and a clothes airer.  

The owner/operators of the hotel, Panayiotes and Maria, I have learnt also own Mama Maria Restaurant in Pigadia and one of the six or so restaurants here in Finiki.  Walked there somewhat late last evening for a wonderful Greek salad with a difference – complete with purslane, rocket and other greens.  Met Ade from Indonesia, he has been 3 years in Greece and works for Panayiotes and Maria.  

I will probably spend the next 2 days much the same as today – went down to the beach around 10.30 hours, after tossing up between that and the swimming pool here at the hotel.  At the beach you can rent a sun lounger, table and umbrella for 3 Euro (5 Euro for 2 persons).  Sunbathed, swam, then by 1300 hours when I was ready for lunch, just walked the short distance to see Panayiotes at the restaurant where I and several cats (obviously all related and sharing in their ginger colour) enjoyed a freshly caught and cooked whole fish with patates tiganetes (chips), bread and a nice cold beer.  A watermelon grower arrived in his truck with produce to sell – by the time I had finished my meal, Panayiotes had bought watermelons and I finished with a complimentary plate of the sliced fruit.  Back to the beach for my siesta under the shade of an umbrella, more sun, another swim and a walk back to my room.  Tonight I will return to the port for my evening meal, to end what has been a perfect day in paradise.  

Karpathos is the most southern island in the Dodecanese group of islands and lies between Crete and Rhodes.  Like Crete, it is very mountainous and has an interesting history.  I know I will be here until at least Wednesday, possibly longer – I need to check when there will be ferries and to where.  For anyone who maybe worrying about me after my ill fortune in the Samaria Gorge, I can honestly say I am feeling no pain and the swelling in my legs has gone.  I can only benefit further now from my days of rest and relaxation here in Finiki.

Paterakis Family - Yanni, Anna, Chrissoula, Kiki, Vassiles, Stratis (Costas the wee boy in front)

Yesterday morning, following a good second night’s sleep in Chora Sfakion and a relatively easy walk, I boarded the 1100 hours bus bound for Hania.  A journey of only some 74 kilometres, however, of 1 1/2 hours duration – the winding road taking us up and through the mountains with breathtaking views back over the Libyan Sea. 

Walked from the bus station to Antonia’s house, took me a little longer than usual, however, my knees and legs I am pleased to say are slowly but surely recovering from their Samaria experience.  Arrived at the house only moments before Antonia returned from the beach, Yemista for lunch then our siesta, followed by a quiet evening at home. 

This morning I walked here to the Internet Cafe via Zara, a clothing store, where I have found some very reasonably priced cool tops for the hot summer weather.  Had planned to meet Antonia after at the beach but she has already telephoned to say she is homeward bound – apparently very hot which I can believe.  Not to worry, once I make it to Karpathos, I plan to do very little else other than rest, sunbathe and swim for the few days I am there.  I am quietly confident that my body will be up to moving on tomorrow, 0930 hours bus to Iraklion which will allow me plenty of time to catch the 1350 hours ferry boat to Karpathos, arriving 2125 hours.  I had wanted to make an online hotel reservation today but unfortunately, have come down to the Internet Cafe without my Credit Card, the details of which I need.  If I cannot make it back here later I will just have to trust my luck on arrival.  There are usually a number of hotel and room owners awaiting the arrival of the ferries and hawking for business, especially during evening hours, so I should not have any problem. 

Karpathos is an island which fortunately does not attract a large number of tourists due to it’s geographical situation.  This will be my first time there and I am looking forward very much to my stay with lots of rest and relaxation.  The weather forecast for the next few days looks promising, lows of around 21 degrees C, highs of 26-27 degrees C – just perfect! 

ADDITION TO BLOG – Sunday 13 June 2010.  During my stay in Hania, I had very much wanted to visit Costas’ sister Chrissoula who lives there, however, had not been able to do so.  As luck would have it, on Friday evening Antonia’s daughter Mary was visiting us and the opportunity arose for her to take me to Chrissoula’s home and Antonia would collect me later.  We did not have a great deal of time together, however, it was very rewarding.  Chrissoula had a photograph of Anna, her husband Vassiles and their 5 children which I had never seen before.  Took a photo of it – quite blew me away!  We were talking about the loss of so many of the men folk in the family and Chrissoula said she is particularly sad about Costas because he was so young, he had not had time to leave them any kind of legacy – only I, which shows the depth of feeling the family have for me.  Her husband Michaelis passed away within the same 40 day period as Costas’ 2 elder brothers Stratis and Yanni in 2001.  

Chrissoula’s son Vassilis is to marry in Iraklion on 21 August – I would love to be there.  My thoughts had been to return to Crete sometime in September, however, perhaps I will make it earlier.

Weary traveller about to board ferry for Chora Sfakion

Yesterday, I finally made it to the welcome sight of the village of Chora Sfakion and my room at Hotel Stavris.  Exhausted and grubby, with two lower legs swollen like elephant’s – quite hideous.  Eventually got sorted on Internet connection in my room, showered, changed and settled in before venturing out via the super market, to find a place to enjoy an evening meal.  Ended up seaside at Taverna Obrosgialos and ordered the house specialty of Spaghetti with large Prawns cooked in Ouzo – shared my prawns with a local moggy.  A couple of glasses of red wine, finishing with a complimentary tsikoudia and halva.  

Following my traumas earlier in the week, above all else, I now need to rest and elevate my legs as much as possible.  They are feeling a lot better today, however, I can tell you I am aware of muscles I never knew I had up until now.  The peculiar and awkward way I had of walking to make it out of the Gorge yesterday, has obviously put strain on my legs and muscles.  I am also aware that I need to move around a little too, otherwise the muscles will tighten.  No pharmacy here, did think about visiting the local Doc today, however, he probably speaks no English and although I am more than pleased with my current grasp of the Greek language, it does not extend to medical jargon.  Add to this, the fact that the doctor here probably has limited knowledge, I have put off seeing anyone for today and will review the situation when I return to Hania tomorrow.  

Chora Sfakion is a laid back and traditional small village of just 278 inhabitants according to the 2001 census.  It only gets busy when the daily ferry boat arrives from Agia Roumeli, disgorging hundreds of exhausted trekkers, most of whom go directly to the awaiting buses and are gone within minutes.  The narrow Imbros Gorge was, until the 1960’s, the only path to reach Chora Sfakion.  During the Battle of Crete in World War II, Chora Sfakion was used by the allied forces to escape from German attacks.  It is also famous as one of the centres of resistance against the occupying forces of both the Venetians and the Turks.  

A better place I could not have had to take my day’s rest, however, it has been frustrating not being able to go and look around.  The sun is shining and the temperature pleasantly warm.  I did venture out this morning for a short stroll and a milk shake, buying some delicious cheese and olive bread at the bakery for lunch back on my balcony.  Any remaining will serve me well for breakfast in the morning.  Tonight I will try another seaside Taverna.   

Hoping my recovery will not be prolonged, I very much want to move on Saturday to Karpathos as planned.  If this is not possible, a Plan B will have to be found.  It is very much a wait and see – just a day at a time – where to and when?

Yiorgo (my hero) and I, Samaria village

Yesterday, 7 June 2010, some 500 people walked the Samaria Gorge, however, only one person had the amazing experience of staying overnight, together with the two on duty park wardens, at the village of Samaria – that was me!  

Left Antonia’s house just after 0700 hours to walk to the bus station some 10 minutes away.  I did think it was strange that my knees felt a little sore, however, gave them no attention.  Arrived at the Omalos plateau around 0900 hours, purchased my 5 Euro entrance ticket to the Park and began my descent into the Gorge via the stairs.  As I slowly went down, my knees became more and more painful.  It never entered my head that maybe I should turn back, rather I thought that once I was down into the Gorge, everything would be okay.  Alas, not so, whatever problem I was experiencing, it only worsened.  I struggled on for the best part of 5 hours when help finally came in the form of Yiorgo, one of two on duty park wardens at the village of Samaria.  A Guide up ahead had informed them of my distressed state and he had come with cream to massage in and bandages.  Yiorgo took care of me there, then supported and helped me to make my way on to the village – he was My Hero!  Then Emai Yiatros (I am not Doctor) he said, never mind Yiorgo, you are still my hero. 

I had taken lunch with me – 2 hard boiled eggs, 4 rusks, 2 apricots and an apple.  I had to eat lunch before taking the painkiller Panteson then came the news from the other warden Antonio – I was in no state to walk the remainder of the Gorge and I should stay overnight with them and take my rest in the village (within the Park it is strictly prohibited to stay overnight).  In any case, I would not make it to Agia Roumeli in time to catch the boat to Chora Sfakion, the last trekkers of the day had already left the village.  I spent the next 3 hours on a bed resting before getting up to walk around the village, still in pain, however, feeling much better.  

The village of Samaria lies inside the Gorge.  It was finally abandoned by the last remaining inhabitants in 1962 to make way for the Park.  The village and the Park take their names from the village’s ancient church Ossia Maria (Saint Mary).  An amazing place to be, in the company of two very caring people, we drank coffee and talked as the Kri-Kri, sometimes called the Cretan goat or Agrimi, endemic only to Crete and 3 small islands just offshore, mingled around and about, eating leaves from the mulberry trees.  

Sometime before darkness fell (they have only limited battery powered lighting) we sat down to our evening meal of Macaroni with fresh tomato and onion sauce, topped with cheese, fried fish, salad, bread and of course, red wine from a seemingly bottomless barrel.  No way would I have swapped my place with any one of the other 499 walkers yesterday – I was in paradise, far from civilisation, a peaceful place for recuperation and with two wonderful people.  We talked and laughed until late when all 3 quietly made our way to our beds. 

This morning we were all up early for coffee.  Reapplied the cream and bandages before having a breakfast of bread and cheese so that I could take another Panteson before setting off around 0800 hours.  Still in pain, however, no worse than yesterday evening.  Yiorgo left first to return to Hania, Antonio was to stay on.  When he noticed I was struggling to get down the first few steps he said Perimeni (wait) then came out with a walking stick as a gift to me.  Wow – it was such a great help today and I made it to the end of the Gorge in 3 1/4 hours, with a further hour on to the seaside village of Agia Roumeli which is where I am now.  Starting out today from the village of Samaria meant that I had a head start on today’s trekkers – I made it through the Gorge without seeing anyone walking my way.  I was passed only by one man walking up the Gorge around 0915 hours and a half a dozen people starting out just as I neared the southern entrance.  Had lunch at Paralia Taverna then realised they have Wireless Internet which they have allowed me to connect to – could not be better.  

So far as my knees are concerned, I will visit the Doc when I return home and/or see a Doctor here in Greece, to carry out tests and hopefully diagnose the problem.  My feeling is that maybe my calcium levels are low and so I will buy a calcium supplement if I can and see if that helps the problem.  Thinking I will now spend only 2 nights in Chora Sfakion since I am going to be a day later getting there but not 100% sure, I just want to take a day at a time which I can do as I am free and I have time on my side.  

This blog aptly named I am sure you will all agree, Samaria Experience – Extraordinaire!

Antonia and I, Hania Harbour

Pleased to be able to report, I have recovered well from my chilled body state and all but ready to set off early tomorrow to walk the 18km through the Samaria Gorge – finally!  Can’t tell you how many years I have wanted to do this, always there has been something to prevent me doing so, this time I’m on my way!  

The last two evenings, Antonia and I have ventured out around 2000 hours to walk (known here as Volta) to the harbour and shops.  Last night through the Old Town and down to look for Antonia’s nephew (another Vassilis) who operates one of the horse and cart’s on the waterfront.  Took us for a ‘stroll’ – very pleasant and informed us well on the current health of Vassilis horse.  The horse is only about 12 months’ old and came from the nephew who brought it into this world.  Apparently the horse has been very unwell, however, not as a result of evil eyes but rather Vassilis being anxious for the horse to grow and be strong, he has been over feeding it, to a point where it could neither eat nor shit and was close to bursting it’s gut.  The two men have kept a 24 hour vigil now for several days, the nephew taking over from Vassilis when he has come home to sleep at nights, until he returns in the morning. 

Friday evening we had taken note of a restaurant which we both felt would be worth checking out and so it was that last night we ended up at Restaurant Bakaliarakia for dinner.  It is not often that you find food in a restaurant in Greece equal to that you become accustomed to in the home, however, at Bakaliarakia we found it.  Feasted on Soupies (cuttlefish cooked with dill, olives, tomato, onion, wine, oil), Bakaliarakia Tiganita (fried cod) with Skordalia (garlic sauce) Salata (salad of mixed fancy lettuce, tomato, caper leaves, caramelised courgette, cheese) and bread.  Finished with complimentary Tsikoudia (grape-based spirit made from the distillation of the pieces of grapes, including stems and seeds, that were pressed for the wine making process).  Served with the spirit were Loukoumades (made from deep fried dough soaked in sugar syrup or honey and cinnamon and sprinkled with sesame seeds).  Total cost 20.80 Euro for 2 persons – very cheap.  On the walk home, stopped at a friend of Antonia’s who offered us fresh apricots from her own tree – delicious, no apricot you could buy in a shop would be worth eating after tasting those we had last night. 

Antonia is at the beach right now and I am hoping to make it there too as soon as I finish my work here.  I received today email confirmation of my room at Hotel Stavris in Chora Sfakion, 27 Euro per night and with Internet connection.  When I have completed my final packing for the walk, I will only be carrying the minimum in my day pack, I hope my Notebook PC will be with me, in which case there will be a new blog posted late our time tomorrow – Monday.

The Harbour, Hania, Crete

 Firstly, let me tell you all – my followers out there – I understand how much you will have been suffering these last few days with no updated blogs and photographs, however, I want you to know that I have been suffering equally, if not more!  You see, not only do my friends Antonia and Vassilis not have the Internet at their home, which means I’m also having to go cold turkey, I have not been very well.  

 I was fortunate to get a lift here from Kastelli with Antonia on Sunday night.  Monday dawned extremely hot, 27 degrees C at 0930 hours when I left the house to walk to the harbour, 33 degrees C by the time I returned for lunch at 1200 hours.  I found a Restaurant/Cafe/Bar at the harbour with Happy Hour from 0900 to 1200 hours, a small beer only 1.50 Euro.  I am not sure what temperature we reached that day, however, it was very uncomfortable weather.  Antonia and Vassilis’ son Bill came by early evening with his wife Rena to see if he could do anything about getting me connected to the Internet, alas, no luck.  Antonia and I had our compulsory cappuccino around 1800 hours and a light meal later – Dakos (Paximadi – rusks, softened with water and tomato juice, topped with tomato, myzithra – soft white cheese and rigani) finished with fresh fruit.  Having found the heat of the day to be very tiring, took a sleeping tablet, lay on top of the bed with the door on to the balcony wide open and drifted off into slumber land.  

 Tuesday morning, after Antonia had made a big dish of my favourite Greek sweet – Galaktoboureko (custard between 2 layers of phyllo pastry with syrup poured over), she and I set off for the beach where I had my first swim of the year in these beautiful clean, clear blue waters.  Returned for lunch and our siesta from which I awoke with a sore throat which developed into a full on head cold, most unpleasant in the current weather conditions.  Without realising it, my body must have become thoroughly chilled on Monday night.  No need to worry, I am slowly but surely coming right.  

 I first met Antonia and Vassilis in Melbourne way back in the early 1980’s when Costas was there with me.  Antonia was originally from Kastelli and went to school with one of Costas’ sisters.  Here in Hania they have a building supplies yard where Vassilis also maintains a vegetable garden, olive and fruit trees and he keeps an assortment of livestock – chickens, goats, bees and a horse (more on the latter later).  On Tuesday he slaughtered a small goat, that’s fine, yesterday we had roast goat with potatoes and salad which was delicious. However, Antonia spent 3 hours cleaning the goat’s intestines and another hour it’s feet – for what reason you may ask?  Well, these will also be cooked and eaten at some stage – not for me.  I know the intestines are traditionally made into a soup at Easter – when people have been through hard times such as they have during the wars and so on here on Crete – nothing is wasted.  

 Wednesday began with a visit to Antonia’s daughter Mary who needed help with colouring her hair, an opportunity to go on line but only briefly.  Wednesday is also the day for the weekly Street Market and so that was our next stop.  Very glad I am not driving around here on the ‘wrong’ side of the road, it is hair raising – Greeks are renowned for being short on patience.  In the afternoon visited a friend who has villas with swimming pool and a restaurant attached – from there to a small beach nearby for my second swim.   

 We had stopped at the building supplies yard on the way to drop off lunch for Vassilis and called in again on our way back.  According to Vassilis his horse was sick and it was ‘matiasmeni’, i.e. someone with evil eyes had looked at it and cast a spell and made it sick.  Some Greeks believe in this and to ward off the evil eyes, they say you can wear a small decorative blue eye on a bracelet or chain etc.  Actually, Billy the wee dog at Anna’s in Kastelli has one on his collar.  Anyway, we had to take away the rope from the horse to be blessed and now the horse should be okay!  

 Spent yesterday recovering and today much the same.  I came with Antonia to the beach then walked and looked for an Internet Cafe nearby.  Rapped to find one and better still, nothing to pay as I have my own computer.  So good to be able to write a blog again when like all of my followers I was close to suffering withdrawal.  My plans are to catch the earliest bus at 0730 hours on Monday to Omalos to walk the Samaria Gorge, a boat from Agia Roumeli to Hora Sfakion where I will stay 3 nights then a bus back to Hania.  On Saturday 12 June, I will be on a bus to Iraklion to catch the 1350 hours ferry boat to the island of Karpathos.  As much as I have enjoyed spending time with family and friends here on Crete, I am truly looking forward to getting back to some real travelling, free to experience whatever comes my way.

Manolis with his son Michaelis

 After returning from my outing in the Square on Friday, I learnt that my friend Antonia from Hania was in town.  Late in the day she came to the house with her neighbour from Hania and an Aunt and as luck would have it, Antonia has been in Kastelli for the weekend and so I am to travel with her to Hania later today.  Great grand daughter Katerina (15) who has such a love of animals, Vanna and Roma and their son Vassilis (12) were all here to share our evening meal.  Vanna invited me to their house last night – Saturday, to view the Eurovision Song Contest.  

Yesterday was very hot, the coolest place to stay was here in the house.  With it’s walls made from stone and earth, some 2 feet thick, it is warm in winter and cool in summer.  Late afternoon, we were all happy and surprised with the arrival of Manolis, his wife Veronica (from Slovakia, she speaks perfect Greek) and their 2 children (Michaelis 2 1/2, Maria 10 months) from Hania, together with Katina’s son Yanni who was with us also last weekend.  Manolis is one of 3 sons of Chrissoula, a sister of Costas’.  Sat outside under the grapevine, only moving into the house at dinner time.  

Their unexpected arrival meant I was late going to Vanna and Roma’s, Vassilis took me there just after 2200 hours, in time to watch the live telecast of the Eurovision.  Not a big crowd – Vanna, Roma, their son Vassilis, five mates of Roma’s and me.  To add interest we all participated in a vote sweep stake and naturally, I voted for Greece but alas it was Germany who came out on top this year.  I’m not sure how the official voting system works, however, I now realise it is all very political and each country tends to give the most points to the countries they have an affiliation with, e.g. Cyprus gave top points to Greece, Spain to Portugal etc.  It would seem that Germany currently has more ‘friends’ than any of the other 38 countries participating.  In other words, it is more a political contest than one of talent.  Our party disbanded a little before 0200 hours and Yiorgos, a friend of Vanna and Roma’s who is paralysed from the waist down and in a wheelchair, drove – yes, drove me home in his modified car.  

Again I have yet another tale to tell about a living thing other than humans.  Answering the call of nature during the night, I sat on the throne with both eyes firmly fixed on a small Scorpion as it made it’s way across the floor towards me.  I believe their bite is not dangerous, however, I was not comfortable!   

I have yet to ask Antonia if they have Internet connection or not at their home.  If worst comes to worst and they don’t, please forgive me if blogs and photos are few and far between for the next week or so.  Hopefully my good luck will continue.  

Later today I must move on, in one way I am sad yet in another, I am looking forward to new places and experiences.