Itisallgreek2me

Family of seven cats - Skala, Patmos

On Patmos, the island which is a place of pilgrimage for both Orthodox and Western Christians, you can sense and feel the spirituality that is here – somehow it is in the air.  I need to revisit sometime in the spring or autumn when there is not the intense summer heat like now – my attempts to walk the Old Paths of Patmos have been rather pathetic I feel, it is simply just too hot for me.  I have been taking things pretty easy, still I guess that is what holidays are supposed to be all about. 

Sunday evening I experienced my finest dining experience here on Patmos at Xiliomodi, an Ouzeri/Fish Taverna.  Sat at an outside table in an alleyway and thoroughly enjoyed a large plate of large shrimps, together with a glass of ouzo.  The Greek music (Cretan style) was exactly to my liking and I returned to Villa Zacharo Hotel just in time to see the finish of the World Cup 2010 Final – Spain 1, Netherlands 0.  What will the people find to do now that the football is all over? 

Yesterday was my son Dave’s birthday and so I surprised him with a telephone call.  He was with friends at my mum’s house – it is comforting to know there are some very nice people looking out for him back home, I do miss him heaps.  Visited the bakery for two mikro milopitas (small apple pies) which was my breakfast, a portokalada (orangeade) at Houston Cafe then the bus to Kampos Beach.  Not really my scene, very touristy and 8 Euros for 2 deckchairs on the beach – I found a quiet spot under a tamarisk tree until lunchtime when I made my way across the road to a Taverna for Yemista (stuffed tomatoes and peppers) and an ice cold beer.  Lay down on a bench in the shade on the beach until the bus arrived at 1500 hours for my return to Skala.  Last night at Taverna Grigoris, a rather noisy location on a corner, I had Moussaka and wine with a complimentary sweet on the house to finish. 

Today I was back at Houston Cafe for another portokalada before setting off to visit the Ancient Acropolis of Kasteli.  In the heat of the day I somehow ended up on a path that took me to a beautiful little church on the hillside overlooking Skala but I did not find Kasteli – never mind, another time.  Once back in the town of Skala I saw this family of seven cats and as you will all have come to realise by now, I cannot resist the temptation to take yet one more cat photograph.  Greek salad and another ice cold beer at Taverna Ostria then back to the hotel for siesta. 

Tomorrow I move on to the small island of Agathonissi, only 8 kilometres off the coast of Turkey and with quite a story to tell I believe about refugees mainly from Iraq and Afghanistan who try to use the island as an entrance way into Europe.  With a population of only 80-100 people, I do not expect to find Internet there so it may be 3-4 days before my next blog is published from the island of Samos.

"Houston Cafe" - The Square, Skala, Patmos

In July 2009, there appeared an article in ‘World of Interiors’ magazine about Houston Cafe, located in the square – Skala, Patmos.  A shrine to the American dream, it was opened by a Greek man who made his fortune in Texas and returned to his homeland to share his success.  After his passing, Houston Cafe was run by two sisters and it was my sister Janet who enlightened me about this Cafe before I left New Zealand.  In fact, we had even spoken of meeting up here if it had been at all possible.

On Friday evening I was delighted to find Houston Cafe open and quietly walked inside to ask the lady in black for her permission to take some photographs.  Should you be fortunate enough to visit Houston Cafe, do not expect a friendly welcome.   Initially there was no reply, however, eventually she agreed, provided she was not in the images – okay, no problem.  I hurriedly pointed my camera in every possible direction and it was not very long before I was politely told – no more.  Never mind, I did my best to explain that I especially wanted the photographs to show my sister in New Zealand. 

I then ordered an ouzo (incredibly all drinks cost only 1 Euro).  No frills – a glass of tap water and a glass of ouzo without ice!  Sitting at an outside table, I spoke with another solo patron who told me she had been visiting Houston Cafe for many years.  She had known the original owner and the current owner’s sister Katina who passed away she said 2002-3 – apparently, Katina was very friendly.  This patron described our lady in black as ‘strict’ – perhaps ‘severe’ would be more like it.  Anyway, her opening hours seem somewhat limited but hopefully I will get to enjoy another ouzo or two there before I leave Patmos.  Finished the evening off at Restaurant Panteli where a shrewd dog somehow knew I was enjoying a chop, the bone from which he got to take away and relish.

Yesterday I took the bus once again up to Chora where I visited the Holy Monastery of Zoodochos Pigi before going to Simandiri Mansion nearby.  Built in 1625 for a Sea Captain, the Mansion is a treasure trove of furniture, furnishings and objects from yesteryear, giving one some insight into how life was way back then.  It is looked after and run by one lady who charges 3 Euro entrance fee and she will probably succeed in having you buy something from the display of all that she has made.  From there I went on to walk the Old Path from Chora to the Nunnery “Evangelismos” and return to Chora – then bus back to Skala.

My host Jacob at Villa Zacharo Hotel had kindly offered to take me at 1830 hours to Chora for the official dedication of the restored three windmills – made possible by a Swiss “Friend of Patmos”.  In our company were Margarita, a sister to Jacob’s wife’s mother who lives in America and her daughter Poppy who lives in Finland.  Following a lengthy dedication ceremony at the school next door, during which time it was almost impossible to hear anything above the conversation of the large crowd gathered, everyone proceeded up to the windmills to witness their first official operation and then returned to the school, where a table was  waiting, traditional dancers were ready and celebrations were under way.  A tremendous achievement made possible as I understand by one Swiss man.  We returned to Skala and I walked to the port to enjoy a light dinner at Restaurant Ostria.

Today I visited the village of Grikos and Petra Kalikatsou – the peculiar and imposing stone that seems to come out of the sea.  Tradition holds that it was a place of hermitage – there are handmade stairs and it has it’s own drainage system and water reservoir which are still functional today.  I then spent quiet time at the beach and enjoyed lunch at Restaurant Flisvos before catching the 1400 hours bus back to Skala.  This evening I discovered Ouzeri/Fish Restaurant Chiliomodi just down the road from Villa Zacharo Hotel.  Feasted on Garides Tiganetes (deep fried shrimps) – with a glass of ouzo and excellent Greek music.  I am now replete and back in the hotel as the World Cup 2010 Final plays out.

Monastery of St John the Theologian - Chora, Patmos

On my last evening in Pandeli, Leros, I revisited Taverna Drosia.  In contrast to the previous evening, to my delight business was brisk.  The owner had been out fishing that morning and caught only three fish, one of which was cooked for me – absolutely divine!  Any bits I was not going to eat were devoured by a somewhat pregnant looking, one eyed, ginger cat – not a morsel wasted.

Yesterday morning before leaving Vangelis Studios, George who is something of a computer expert, enlightened me on a few matters with regard to my website.  As George and Sue were going to meet the catamaran to tout for business, I was able to get a lift with them to Agia Marina where we enjoyed a coffee all together before saying our farewells.

A quick stopover at the island of Lipsi and in no time we were arriving in Patmos where Jacob from Villa Zacharo Hotel was awaiting me.  From my room I have a great view of Chora and the Monastery of St John the Theologian.  Downstairs there are facilities to make tea, coffee or chocolate anytime, as well as cool water.  Unpacked and settled myself in for a one week stay then ventured out to explore the town a little and find a place to eat.  Sat down at Restaurant Pirofani by the harbour – quality food, however, portions small and I thought a little expensive with a beer costing 3.50 Euro.

The strong winds which began blowing last night have continued all of today but with the chill factor, this is good for walking.  Decided to catch the 0740 hours bus this morning to Chora (total 2 passengers) with the Monastery of St John the Theologian scheduled to open at 0800 hours.  Arrived just after this time to find the door still securely locked (once again, Greek time – anytime) so went walking through the village.  Wonderful architecture, many churches and much to my delight, numerous friendly, healthy cats.

Under persecution by the Turks, St Christodoulos asked the Byzantium Emperor Alexios Comninos I to give him the small, barren, arid island of Patmos to be his home, together with the surrounding islands and the Emperor donated it to him by a deed.  This document is displayed in the amazing Museum (6 Euro entrance fee) where most of the Monastery’s relics are kept, together with items of inestimable value.  St Christodoulos began building the Monastery of St John the Theologian in 1088.  Built only from rocks and five storeys high, from the outside it looks like a castle, a priority being to keep the monks safe from pirate attacks.

There are numerous Old Paths (Monopatia) on Patmos and I left Chora to walk down one of these to Skala, visiting the Cave of the Apocalypse on the way.  It was in this cave that St John wrote his divinely inspired Revelation of the Apocalypse, the last book of the New Testament.  Today the cave is surrounded by the Monastery of Revelation, however, descending forty three steps and into the cave, one sees the rock which split into three when John heard the voice of God, the place where the Apocalypse was written, the place where John slept, where he laid his head to rest and a crevice that he could hold on to for support as he stood.

On my return to the hotel, Jacob enlightened me – partly in Greek, partly in English, to a whole lot more about these two sites, deservedly declared in 1999 by UNESCO – World Heritage Sites.  I look forward to continuing my journey around Patmos tomorrow.

Agia Marina - Leros

Last night there was a party at “Castelo” with live music, fireworks and all.  Sue went and I probably could have gone, however, I did not feel in the mood for a great deal of socialising so instead at 2000 hours I headed for the recommended Taverna Drosia, located right on the beach in Pandeli.  Ordered Arni Lemonata (Lamb in lemon sauce) and my usual 1/4 litre of kokino krassi (red wine).  Took my time as I was going to wait for Savana Bar to open at 2200 hours and check that out.  In those 2 hours, I was a lone diner – except, of course, for my pussycat friends and in particular, a gorgeous wee black cat who arrived first on the scene and enjoyed most of what I had left on my plate. 

The reason for the lack of patrons when the Taverna next door was busy?  They had a television set showing the World Cup 2010 semi final game live between the Netherlands and Uruguay – the result you will all know now was 3 – 2. 

Walked on down to Savana Bar for a Metaxa 5 star on the rocks, accompanied by a large glass of water.  Very good prices – only 4 Euro, however, for me, no substitute for Bar Spetsa on Spetses, my favourite watering hole in Greece where Costas plays only music from the 60’s and 70’s. 

I have come to realise that the heat here during July and August is going to prohibit my walking the distances and to many of the places I would really like to go, however, this morning set off to walk the 5-6 kilometres to Alinda.  On the way there I visited the Archaeological Museum in Platanos and the Leros War Cemetery 1939 – 1945 where 179 British, 2 Canadian and 2 South African servicemen are buried.  I also went into Bellenis’ Tower which houses the Historic and Folkloric Museum – 3 Euro admission fee.  

By the time I arrived in Alinda around 1130 hours, I needed brunch so sat down at a table on the beach at Argo Cafe for a Club Sandwich and Portokalada (orange drink).  Club Sandwiches in Greece are a substantial meal – usually toasted and today’s contained ham, cheese, tomato, lettuce, bacon and mayonnaise.  They are always served with french fries.  On my return walk I enjoyed a refreshing swim, without which the return journey would have been even more taxing in the heat than it already was. 

Once again I feel I am ready to move on and accordingly, I have bought my ticket for tomorrow at 1245 hours on Dodekanisos Seaways catamaran “Dodekanisos Pride” which will see my arriving on the island of Patmos at 1335 hours.  There I will be met at the Port by Jacob from Villa Zacharo Hotel in Skala where I have booked a room for a 7 nights’ stay.  Very much looking forward to it.  Tonight I will revisit Taverna Drosia then probably have an early night.  I wont know until sometime tomorrow morning where the catamaran will leave from – Agia Marina or Lakki where I arrived on Monday, all depends on The Meltemi.

View of Pandeli from Castle - Leros

Yesterday morning, awoke to The Meltemi – a hot wind which blows in July and August.  Checked out of Hotel Panorama in good time to walk down to the harbour to await Dodekanisos Seaways catamaran ‘Dodekanisos Pride’ 1135 hours departure for the island of Leros.  Spoke with an English guy at the Tourist Information office at the harbour who has been living on Kalymnos for eleven years and he has produced an excellent Visitors’ Guide called “The Slow Guide to Kalymnos”.  Priced at just 2 Euro (he gave me a copy) it is a bargain – quite literally everything you need to know about the island is written in there.   

I had been told the catamaran would dock at Agia Marina, however, because of the wind yesterday, it went to Lakki instead.  On arrival I had no idea where I was going to stay but I had read on the Internet about Vangelis Studios in Pandeli and as it happened, George and his English wife Sue were there at the Port to tout for customers.  I spoke with George, established that they had WiFi Internet and the room rate would be 30 Euro per night – sounded good to me.   

The capital of Leros is Platanos, however, in recent years it has connected with Agia Marina and the tourist resort of Alinda in the north and Pandeli in the south.  From Pandeli and Vangelis Studios there is a magnificent view of Apitiki Hill and Pandeli Castle – built in the 11th Century by the Byzantine Emperor Alexios Komninos.  Unlike most other Greek islands, Leros is not reliant on tourism and does not shut down in the winter, with many Greeks from the mainland living and working here in the public sector.   

There is a very nice Restaurant/Cafe/Bar/Hotel called “Castelo” located by the beach and right on the harbour in Pandeli and it was there where I met up with George, Sue and George’s father Vangelis yesterday afternoon and again in the evening.  Back in my room I had had the misfortune of breaking my glasses whilst cleaning them, not the actual lens but the piece which holds the lens in the frame.  George made a rather messy attempt to glue things together, however, today I went with them all to Lakki and saw an Optician who managed to clean up the mess somewhat and he could repair my glasses if I am able to soften the glue enough to take the lens out.  In the meantime, I have invested in a pair of 10 Euro reading spectacles from the Pharmacy.   

Early this morning I left my room to walk to Platanos and up the 300 odd steps to Pandeli Castle.  Stopped in the square at Platanos on my way back for a freshly squeezed orange juice and then bought a spanakopita (spinach pie) from the bakery – half healthy breakfast.  We left for Lakki around 1100 hours and George was kind enough to make the return journey via Gourna so that I could see another part of the island which is not big – you can drive around the entire island in one hour.  The roads are lined with eucalyptus and pine trees and the green valleys contrast with the barren hills, I will call them – not really high enough to be mountains.   

Tonight I am looking forward to dinner in one of several tavernas located right on the harbour and then perhaps I will visit Savana Bar.

Monastery of Agios Savvas - Kalymnos

After walking the “Italian Road” on Friday, my energy levels were slightly depleted yesterday but I decided I would visit the Monastery of Agios Savvas which sits atop a hill overlooking Pothia – one of 720 monasteries and churches, big and small, on the island of Kalymnos.  Soon after leaving Hotel Panorama I came to the Church of Agios Vasilios.  Although it was still quite early, I was already feeling the affect of the heat of the day, however, laboured on until I arrived at a small white and blue church, reasonably close to the Monastery and a massive Cross standing tall nearby.  A place to rest a while then onwards and upwards to at last reach the Monastery of Agios Savvas.

With magnificent views, this very special place is a must visit for anyone coming to Kalymnos.  If like me you forget to wear a skirt (women that is) the nuns, who still reside in the old part of the Monastery, kindly have an array of wrap rounds you can wear to go into the various chapels.  You are able to go into the room where Agios Savvas lived and in one small chapel lies his heavily engraved solid silver casket, his skull visible through an ornate glass window and they say you can smell his sweetness – like flowers.  Outside is the tomb where he was first laid to rest for I think 11 years.  I left the Monastery knowing I had visited a very special place.

Agios Savvas the New was the patron Saint of Kalymnos and he lived here for the last 20 years of his life as a priest and spiritual father of the nuns of the Convent of All Saints.  He was a great ascetic, confessor, iconographer and miracle worker – one of the recently recognised Saints of the Orthodox Church.  Born in 1862 in Eastern Thrace and baptised Vasilios, from a young age he had a calling for holy monastic life and as a teen he entered St. Anne’s Skete on Mt. Athos where along with the usual monastic duties he learnt iconography and Byzantine music.  After a few years, he travelled to Jerusalem on a pilgrimage to the holy sites and there he entered the Monastery of St. George Hozevitou.  After a period of being a novice, he was tonsured a monk and given the name Savvas.  For anyone interested there is a mine of information about him on the Internet.

Walking around town I met an incredibly smoochy cat who persisted in following me for a while then once he was gone, I sat down at Cafe/Bar Miami for a cold beer, eventually moving on elsewhere for a club sandwich.  There is a reasonable bus service on the island, however, you must purchase a ticket from a shop before boarding.  I didn’t know this and was caught out on Friday when I hopped on the bus in Rina to return to Pothia, however, the driver let me on then stopped in a village further along and waited while I went to buy a ticket at a service station.  Now knowing all this, I made sure yesterday to purchase a return ticket to Emporios where I planned to spend today.

An evening stroll to the Archaeological Museum of Kalymnos brought only disappointment as it was closed.  Also, the 19th Century Mansion of Nikolaos Vouvalis, the most prominent Kalymnian sponge merchant – the Mansion still furnished and displaying household objects just as it was when the Vouvalis family lived there.  Being Saturday night, I decided to return to Cafe/Bar Miami for an ouzo where I watched the crowd change from families with children eating icecream and playing in the street to all the young girls and guys meeting up with their friends, signalling that it was time for me to move on, eat and go rest for the night.

Today I was on the 0900 hours bus for the one hour journey to Emporios, a small fishing village 24 kilometres to the north of the island. Passing through Chorio, Panormos, Kantouni, Myrties, Massouri, Arginonta and Skalia, much of the way the road lined with tamarisk and pine trees or oleander bushes and splendid coastal views, including the small island of Telendos just offshore.  I had read about Harry’s Paradise Restaurant Cafe in Emporios – in a garden of bougainvillea, hibiscus, oleander, geraniums, olive trees, nasturtiums and basil to name but a few – a frappe there before heading to the beach.  Today Emporios was hosting Jet Ski Races which meant an influx of visitors creating noise, however, I actually enjoyed it all – plenty to watch, cool music and listening to the Greeks disagreeing before the start of each race provided my entertainment.  Returned on the 1550 hours crowded bus to Pothia.

Tomorrow I leave Kalymnos behind when I catch the 1135 hours Catamaran to the nearby island of Leros.  I have enjoyed my time here immensely and would like to return some day.

The "Italian Road" - Pothia to Vathys, Kalymnos

Up bright and early this morning in time to see the sunrise before heading downstairs for breakfast then on the road by 0730 hours.  Initially, I had to make my way across town to somewhere near the Archaeological Museum building to find the beginning of the “Italian Road” – a stone pathway built by the Italians at the beginning of the 20th Century and until 1967, the only road between Pothia and Vathys.  I was talking to a Greek man today in Rina who told me he used to walk the path to go to school, however, these days with a coastal road and motorised transport, it is only a crazy Kiwi like me and keen hikers who are likely to walk the old pathway.  Today, I saw no one from beginning to end – the entire walk all to myself with not so much as a goat to keep me company.  I had been told goat numbers are high here on the island of Kalymnos, however, they must all have been hanging out elsewhere today. 

A couple of things worth mentioning about the “Italian Road”.   Firstly, someone has kindly painted red dots and arrows on stones etc at various places along the way, always a good feeling to be reassured you are still on the right track.  Secondly, anyone walking the path needs to keep an eye out for generous sized spiders who like to weave their webs across the path, I am sure to upset hot and weary travellers – necessitating a small diversion or the breaking of the web. 

According to what I have read, the “Italian Road” is 4.25 kilometres long, however, the need to get to the start from wherever you are staying and the walk to Vathys and Rina once you complete the descent, all requires a reasonable level of fitness and appropriate footwear, sunhat or cap, water bottle and so on.  

On completing the descent and arriving in the fertile valley, the first sign of life I saw was someone’s enclosed goats and chickens.  With the day moving along towards late morning I wanted to reach Rina, the small picturesque harbour which serves at Vathys’ port and therefore, decided not to walk further up the valley to the villages of Platanos, Metochi and Stimenia.  Vathys itself has a scattering of houses – some rather nice and most with plantings of citrus trees, olives and vines.  White washed stone walls surround many of these properties.  In Greece, Kalymnos is known for the affluence of much of the population.  Apparently, Kalymnos is the wealthiest island in the Dodecanese and one of the wealthiest Greek islands. 

On reaching Rina with it’s fjord like bay, I took my place at Taverna Galini on the harbour, ordered a well deserved cold beer,  removed shoes and socks and put my feet up.  With a temperature today I believe of around 30 degrees C, I was feeling the heat.  After a while I had a wee look around then returned to Galini for lunch before catching the 1430 hours bus back to Pothia, incidently, from which I viewed numerous goats grazing on these lower slopes.  I am a little tired, however, very satisfied with my efforts of today – walking in the mountains of Greece, for me, is like heaven.

Ready to leave Astypalea

I guess following the marathon five hour effort I put in on Tuesday to publish my blog and images, it could be argued that I deserved to be let off my writing for at least one day.  As it so happened, during my last 48 hours on the island of Astypalea, I enjoyed the company of some people who expressed a wish not to be identified in any way on my website and naturally, I want to respect their right to privacy.  

During those couple of days, I did visit the small, however, very good Archaeological Museum in Pera Yialos with treasures found from across the island.  The good breakfasts at Ilios Cafe and evening meals at Taverna Maistrali, following a pre-dinner ouzo at a cafe somewhere on the harbour, continued with copious amounts of house wine magically arriving at the table, compliments of Dimitris.

Fortunately, my 0430 hours ferry departure this morning for Kalymnos, from the Port some 5-6 kilometres away did not eventuate as I learned of another ferry, the Nisos Kalymnos, which was departing from Pera Yialos at 1005 hours, just a few minutes walk from Hotel Paradissos – a far more civilised affair!  A three hour journey on yet another spectacular, gloriously sunny day – something I have now become accustomed to and really, take for granted.

With the next two months getting busy with Greek holidaymakers, as well as tourists and travellers, from now on, if at all possible, I need to secure a booking for my accommodation pre-arrival,  to make sure I am not left out on the streets.  Today I was met at the Port and brought to the family run Hotel Panorama, having secured a room via email from Astypalea.  Sitting up on the side of the hill and overlooking Pothia, the capital and main port of the island, the view is awesome!  There are many cubed houses, not white washed but rather in shades of cream and caramel, with some terracotta tiled roofs, interspersed with green areas and many palms and pines.

Kalymnos belongs to the Dodekanese group of islands and for many years, the main source of wealth has come from sponge diving.  The mountains are quite spectacular and rock climbing the limestone cliffs is now a popular sport for the adventurous.  Today I have not ventured too far, taking only a short walk in the mid afternoon heat to the recommended Taverna Xefteris, offering good, wholesome, traditional Greek cuisine.

Tomorrow I hope to be up early to walk the 4.25 kilometre road to Vathys, around the other side of the island.

Dimitris, Rod, Helen - Taverna Maistrali, Astypalea

I will begin with a little story about an old Greek woman I saw on Sunday evening as I made my way up to the castle.  She was sitting opposite her house spinning wool and I approached to ask if she would mind me taking a photograph of her.  Only if you come to see the things I have made she replied.  Okay, no problem I thought and so we went to view.  She had bags full of socks, hats and goodness knows what else and wanted me to buy something.  I explained I was buying nothing as I have another 4 months of travel with a back pack and apologised.  Then began the begging and the story of how her husband had died, her son wasn’t quite right and could I give her something to help.  All this was going on in the doorway of her small, very basic dwelling which was filthy dirty, smelt terrible and what is more, the flies were annoying me to hell.  All of this and coupled with her persistent begging, I was driven away without the photograph I initially sort. 

It is Tuesday morning and for the second day I have really enjoyed breakfast at the outdoor Cafe Ilios (Sun Cafe) located downstairs at Hotel Paradissos.  Fresh orange juice, boiled egg, fresh crusty bread with a choice of marmalade or honey, cake and a large cup of coffee – cost 5 Euro.  Yesterday, the Internet connection was incredibly slow and I laboured for some 5 hours to publish my blog and upload photographs.  By the time I had completed my work, it was too late in the day to contemplate doing much else and so it was that I decided to walk again up the hill to Chora.  Because I tend to do things at irregular hours as the mood takes me, I often find most everything closed, like during the afternoons when it is time for siesta.  Of course, businesses open again in the late afternoon and remain open until late in the evening.  

Around 2000 hours I went looking for somewhere to have dinner and decided upon Taverna Maistrali.  From all appearances a very traditional restaurant and with a number of cats thereabouts.   A lone diner was conversing with the owner Dimitris who joined him for a few wines.  We got talking and after I had finished my meal, Rod asked if I would like to join him to finish my wine.  He is from Florida in the States and first visited Greece in 1962 back in his working days.  Rod had fare-welled his wife in the morning as she prefers not to stay so long in Greece and was flying home from the airport on the island of Kos.  Dimitris continued to bring yet more wine and more wine to our table, we all enjoyed a very pleasant evening in each others company and I eventually made it to bed around 0100 hours.  During the course of the evening, a group of ten people from Italy arrived to dine which gladdened our hearts as we do feel for the Greek people in what are very quiet times for business – life at the moment is very difficult for them.     

Dimitris and his wife Efroeyni both work in the restaurant helped by their children.  Dimitris is a lover of cats, to a degree which is rarely found in this country.  In particular, one black and white boy named Aluce whose name was Lucia for the first 3 months of his life when he was thought to be female!  Aluce actually comes to Dimitris when called – there is obvious respect for each other.  Apparently Aluce does fight with one of his sons over their mutual interest in a particular female – that son we were told is a great hunter.     

Astypalea – the “Butterfly Island” – no, not because there are loads of butterflies about – because of the island’s shape.

Castle of Chora, Chora, Astypalea

Up early and expecting to partake of breakfast before I left Hotel Romantzo but alas, not enough time from when service began and I needed to make my way down to the port.  Blue Star Ferries ‘Diagoras’ arrived and departed on time – a more upmarket vessel than those of Anek Lines that I have travelled on with food and drink prices to match.  Settled for a Tiropita (Greek cheese pie) and a bottle of water.  

First stop, the island of Kos and secondly, Kalymnos which I plan to travel back to on Thursday.  Fragiskos from Hotel Paradissos in Pera Yialos was awaiting me at the Port as arranged – just as well as the ferries now dock at a newer Port some kilometres from Pera Yialos, Chora and Livadi. 

Astypalea is the most western and the most remote of the Dodekanese Islands – sometimes referred to as the butterfly island due to it’s shape, joined by a strip of land in the middle just 100m wide.  It’s capital Chora is built high on a peninsula with Pera Yialos in the bay on one side and Livadi on the other.  At the top of the hill is the imposing 13th Century Venetian Castle of Chora, also known as the Querini Castle  after the Querini family who erected the Kastro and ruled the island from 1207 – 1522.  Until well into the 20th Century over 300 people lived inside the Kastro, however, depopulation and a severe earthquake in 1956 combined to leave only a desolate shell today, notwithstanding the two churches Evangelistria and Agios Giorgos which are within the castle walls.  A row of eight windmills run across the top of the peninsula by the Square. 

Although this mountainous island belongs to the Dodekanese, it is more like the Cycladic islands in appearance, with the traditional white and blue colours of the houses and wooden balconies.  Anxious to see what I could see I went walking soon after my early afternoon arrival, however, it proved to be far too hot in the day so I took refuge at a Taverna by the beach, had a Greek salad, bread and a beer before retiring for the remainder of the afternoon.  Ventured out once again around 1800 hours, walking up to Chora and the Castle, the way being not well sign posted but eventually I was there.  Had the site to myself until a group of Italian men arrived just as I was about to leave and obligingly offered to take my photograph at the entrance.  Sat over an ouzo (always served with nibbles) for a good couple of hours at a cafe in the Square of Chora – a relatively quiet place other than the sound of children playing in and around the pedestrian only road. 

Walked back down the hill to have a light dinner before returning to my hotel around 2300 hours, satisfied with my first day’s experience of this beautiful island.