Itisallgreek2me

Wanganui from the air

My journey this year began on 25 March, again from Wanganui, New Zealand, arriving 43 hours later on the small Greek Island of Spetses at 1930 hours local time – Saturday 26 March.  Tired and exhausted, Costas was waiting for me as I embarked from the hydrofoil … it is fantastic to be back!  No.1 priority – catch up on some sleep, however, the following night I was back in Bar Spetsa … bright eyed and bushy tailed! 

It is Springtime here and the weather in the main has been glorious – sunny days but still a little chilly in the evenings.  The locals are busy right now painting and sprucing up their homes and establishments, making ready for Easter celebrations and the coming Summer season.  Few visitors have arrived yet – the island mainly quiet and peaceful.  When walking during the day, one must be on constant lookout for scooters and motorbikes, the island’s main mode of transport.

Most nights I venture out to spend time with Costas in Bar Spetsa where it is not unusual to find oneself chatting with A-listers as I enjoy a Metaxa 5 Star or two with ginger ale – life can be tough at the top!  Happy to be indulging once again in the Greek cuisine, both at home and out in the local restaurants.  Today we enjoyed Bakaliaros (cod) with Skordalia (garlic sauce), Patates Tiganetes (fries), Patzarosalata (warm beetroot salad), Psomi (delicious crusty bread) and a shared Mythos beer … then back home for a lengthy much needed siesta.

In a couple of weeks’ time, I will travel to Crete (a journey of some 14 plus hours) to spend a few days over Easter with friends and my extended Greek family there.  With the luxury of only 6 weeks in Greece this time as apposed to 6 months last year, I will have just 10 more days to spend with Costas before leaving to return to New Zealand on Saturday 7 May.

As of today, Costas now has WiFi Internet connected here at the house which is going to be so convenient for me.  Tomorrow I must also try to get back into taking photographs to add interest to my blogs.  To date we have not ventured far from the town, however, I’m thinking about walking the 26 kilometres around the island … the landscape at this time of year takes my breath away – with herbaceous plants and wild flowers in abundance.  One day I would love to transform Costas’ yard into a beautiful garden … he thinks it is too shaded by the trees, including lemon and orange, however, I believe otherwise.  Currently stinging nettle is growing en masse – the soil will be good and with the right plantings, we would be living within our own little paradise.

I am extremely happy to be here … no disappointments, only time is limited.

About to leave Spetses

Today is Saturday 20 November 2010.  Tomorrow it will be 5 weeks since I arrived back in New Zealand.  Life has been much busier than I anticipated it would be on my return, however, I have finally found the time to write Blog 101 about my journey home.

It all began on Thursday 14 October when Costas purchased my hydrofoil ticket for departure from Spetses the following day – in his name, as he said, if he had tried to give them my name, he might still be there and anyway, he would do anything to get rid of me – yeh, right!  That evening we arrived home from Bar Spetsa to find all four cats awaiting us in the courtyard … a first, I’m sure they knew I was leaving.  The next day we enjoyed our last English breakfast out for now, returned to the house, leaving again just a little before 1500 hours to have coffee – with my pack now weighing around 20 kilos atop Costas’ bicycle.  On to the pier, the saddest of farewells and into my seat on the Flying Dolphin XXIX where I cried and cried – two people capable of making each other that happy should be together. 

Ironically, after a week of inclement weather, the sky was blue and full of sunshine.  Costas would have returned home to sleep knowing that night, life would go on in Bar Spetsa.  For me, at least I can say it was a comfortable hydrofoil ride – had the weather that day been unfavourable, Costas would have arranged for me to travel to Athens by water taxi and taxi.  First quick stop Ermioni on the mainland, second stop Hydra with many more passengers boarding, third stop Poros then Piraeus.

As we approached Athens the skies were cloudier and soon there would be rain.  Carrying 20 kilos on my back and another 10 kilos in my day pack, I went hunting for the X96 bus stop to the airport.  At first I walked way too far, then retraced my steps virtually all the way back, eventually finding the stop by a small park and statue.  At 2010 hours I finally hopped on the bus, paid my Euro 3.20 and arrived at the airport around 2120 hours.

Joined the queue for Check In but then, because of the straps on my Backpack and the size of my parcel containing my treasured walking stick from the Samaria Gorge, wrapped in two traditional floor rugs, I had to take my luggage elsewhere.  Once free of that I went on to do my duty free shopping – filled a basket then told no, you can shop here for departures through B Gates only and my Gate was an A.  So, I shopped all over again, still unable to find my favourite Greek chocolate Lacta and I learnt there is a difference when shopping to travel to non EU countries – e.g. buy Tobacco with a green sticker. 

Thankfully, I had no problems with passport control then I made my way to Gate 9,  in plenty of time for last minute telephone calls to Costas, Mum, family and friends on Crete and a text to Jilly and Rick.  On boarding the Emirates Airbus A330-200, a quite spacious aircraft, I found my window seat, with an older well dressed gentleman sitting beside me.  The aeroplane was full and eventually we left Athens at the slightly later departure time of 2315 hours.  As we flew over Greek Islands, I was in no mood to talk with anyone – nothing was real, only images of Costas flashing through my mind. 

Along came the very much appreciated hot towels, followed by the dinner menu – I was starving having had nothing to eat since breakfast.  I chose the lamb, asked for a red wine and left only the bread roll which as usual, was cold – I don’t know why they bother serving them at all.  Then lights out and time for a snooze for those who are able to do so … I just dozed and the time passed relatively quickly although I did not appreciate the fact that someone, somewhere, was farting – not nice!

Arrived in Dubai to face the usual security checks where all were requested to remove belts, shoes, watches, mobile phones and jackets …  what a performance!  With heavy duty free bags to carry as well as my day pack, I found a trolley then exchanged Euro 10 (50 DRM) in order to buy a bottle of Phoenix NZ Organic Lemonade for 10 DRM.  Checked out prices of some duty free items I had purchased in Athens, only to find they were cheaper still in Dubai – never mind.  Managed to pick up on an unsecured WiFi connection – all in all, a very long and tiring stopover.

I had not realised until then that I would be travelling the remainder of my journey home on an Airbus A380-800 – an amazing aircraft – what a stroke of luck.  Accommodating  over 500 passengers, there were three tunnels to board us all.  First and Business classes are upstairs, I had a window seat with heaps of leg room in the back row of the front section where Business class would normally be.  Satellite telephone, SMS and email facilities on your personal screen as well as the ability to recharge a laptop.  Whenever I looked at the map of the world and saw how far we had travelled away from Greece, I wanted to be sick – I was overwhelmed with feelings of sadness.  Watching movies and listening to music to take my mind elsewhere did not work – already I was missing The Greek heaps!  A very long, however, smooth flight of almost 14 hours’ duration – thinking a lot, dozing and eating producing heartburn and indigestion, ending in a smooth landing in Sydney.

Collected my hand luggage from the overhead locker to exit the aircraft and to pass through the usual security check.  Now, TRANSIT PASSENGERS BEWARE!  They applied the 100ml rule to my duty free items … still in sealed bags until that time, never mind that they had come with me from Athens to Dubai and Dubai to Sydney and would have been placed back in the same overhead locker on the very same aircraft.  Even though I did not cross the Australian border, they confiscated from me my two bottles of 5 Star Metaxa and bottle of Grand Marnier, placed them carefully on the floor beside the large bin (no doubt in my mind that was to divvy them out later).  I was furious as I then threw the empty bags at the officer … he looked much like he could have been a Greek Australian in which case he would have known only too well about 5 Star Metaxa!  The entire fiasco was witnessed by an Aussie guy who agreed 100% with me.  He was a lighting designer on his way back from Milan to Auckland where he has lived for some 10 years.  I repeat – TRANSIT PASSENGERS BEWARE!

Finally bound for Auckland and a smooth takeoff from Sydney, looking pretty as a picture on a clear, sunny morning and ever so green.  Unfortunately, the weather in Auckland was not so wonderful and I was about to realise one of the drawbacks of flying in such a big plane – the more passengers there are, the longer the time one has to wait for luggage to come through on the conveyor belt.  Then, of course, I was questioned about my walking stick- was it new or used?  Did I have a tent – no.  Did I have hiking boots – no, walking shoes.  Okay, go over there, meaning they would then examine my stick and shoes.  Fortunately, everything passed the test.

Finally through and I was met by my very good friends Vivienne and Dave who took me over to the Domestic Terminal.  There we had a lovely time together over a couple of red wines, awaiting my flight to Wanganui which was delayed an hour due to high winds.  Talk about a roller coaster ride but I was so so tired, coupled with the relaxing affect of the wine that I could not have cared too much about anything.  Thirty eight hours of travel came to an end when we touched down in Wanganui, where I was met by my Mum, Dave and friends.

I had an amazing journey throughout Greece which far exceeded my dreams.  I do wish I was still on Spetses, however, for the moment I must do what I must do here.  Costas and I are in regular contact and as I have said all along, time will sort out all.  I do know that I will go back again – watch this space to learn when.

Costas "The Greek" - Spetses

It is the eve of my departure from Greece – for now!  What an incredibly amazing 6 months’ journey it has been … the icing on the cake being Costas, the most non-Greek Greek I think I have ever met.  Tomorrow I will be very sad to leave him and the island … where to from here?  We will just have to wait and see. 

The past week back on Spetses has more than exceeded my expectations – the only thing to let me down has been the weather, very cold the first few days, however, warmer since Tuesday but humid with cloudy skies, very little sun and frequent rain.  Sadly, the suntan is fading but thankfully, the memories will stay with me forever. 

Nights in Bar Spetsa with Costas and friends – drinkies later in Spiros’ bar, sometimes on our own, other nights with Raymond and Heather and Steve.  Eating out and delicious meals at home cooked by Costas – from a full English breakfast to thick vegetable soup … oh so yummy!  Not to forget the four cats – Bob, Oliver, Sydney and Larissa, I will miss them all.  Last Saturday I arrived home to an open fire burning, Van Morrison Live on the television, a glass of wine and lunch all ready.  Costas also lit the fire another day, not because it was cold, however, but because of dampness due to the humidity, such is life on a Greek island.

With my packing all but completed and just over 17 hours until I must catch the hydrofoil, I am looking forward to my last night in Bar Spetsa – for now.  This is my 100th blog … together with 1292 images uploaded – unbelievable!  I trust you all have enjoyed sharing my journey with me – I have certainly loved every minute, writing about the places I have been and all the people I have met along the way.    

From the time of leaving Spetses tomorrow, I estimate I have over 40 hours of travelling until I reach my home in the city of Wanganui.  How wonderful it is going to be seeing my family and friends again after such a long time away.  My mind is full of thoughts, scrambled thoughts, as much as I can think and talk about the reality of what lies ahead, nothing seems real.  I have lived my dream and know I wish to return here – sooner rather than later.

As my journey has not yet finished, you can all look forward to at least one more blog after I have safely returned to New Zealand.

"Flying Dolphin XV" - Port of Piraeus

I left Crete on Thursday evening as planned – my friend Antonia drove me to the Port of Hania, leaving me there to await the 2300 hours departure of the Blue Star Ferries “Blue Horizon”.  Being one of the first to board, I managed to secure a comfortable place to doze for the journey to Piraeus, scheduled time of arrival 0615 hours.  At 0500 hours, feeling a little peckish, I went to buy something to eat – could only find a very dry cheese sandwich which was washed down with a pleasant cup of Green Tea.   

Our slightly later arrival time in Piraeus at just before 0700 hours meant the pressure was on me to make it to Gate 8 in time for the first hydrofoil of the day to Spetses leaving at 0800 hours.  Fortunately, there was a free bus I could take from Gate 2 to Gate 5 and a walk from there – with a heavy pack and a somewhat cold morning, I managed to make it in time.  Costas telephoned me soon after departure and said “See you in a couple of hours”.  What I didn’t know at that time was I was about to experience the worst hydrofoil journey of my life!  

Sitting in Seat 1F right at the very front of the craft, I had a good view, however, the sea was very rough, several times my bum literally leaving the seat and we kept having to slow down to ride lower through the waves.  Made it to our first stop at the island of Poros and eventually on to Hydra.  I telephoned Costas to say we would be running late and that I would call again when Spetses was in sight, which I did later saying we were just 5-10 minutes away.  

As we pulled in beside the jetty, I could see Costas waiting for me.  I was feeling so happy to have made it back here and relieved to still be in one piece.  With the vessel rising and falling I found it quite difficult to put my heavy pack on my back, however, once I had managed to do so, I just wanted to get off and see Costas.  Not to be, just yet anyway.  With the sea crashing up over the pier and the vessel rolling so much, for safety reasons the Captain decided we could not get off, he backed away and it was announced that we would be taken to Porto Heli on the Peloponneses mainland and a decision would then be made as to where to from there.  

As we waited outside in Porto Heli for some decision to be made, it was absolutely freezing and no one seemed too sure of what they were going to do.  Finally I hopped into a shared taxi with three other passengers and we paid 3 Euro each to be taken to Kosta nearby, from where we took a Water Taxi to Spetses at a further cost of 5 Euro each.  Cold and tired but very happy to be here, Costas was awaiting me at the Cafe nearby where I had a big cup of hot tea before going to the house for a rest, followed by a yummy lunch Costas had prepared of beef in lemon sauce with rice and a fine bottle of white wine.  

The weather here is nothing like I have become accustomed to over the past few months – very cold and, in fact, I am going back to the house shortly where I believe Costas will have lit the fire!  Yes, it is that cold.  Last night in Bar Spetsa was a cosy affair – just a pleasant number of patrons, the last leaving around 0345 hours.   I chatted a little with Raymond and Heather, a Scottish couple from Aberdeen who live for much of the year on the island and Steve, an English guy who has been skippering the same boat for 12 years and spends a great deal of time on Spetses.  Interesting guy – he has been to Antarctica, touched penguins there and swum with whales and New Zealand is one of his favourite places.  

When the bar closed, Costas suggested we go for a quiet drink at Spiros to which I said no – I needed to sleep.  This is, of course, my final week for now in Greece and I will be making the very most I can of every precious moment here on Spetses with Costas.  This is my 99th Blog so you can all look forward to at least one more before I return to New Zealand – I must hit the ton!

Inside the Agora (Market) Building, Hania, Crete

Left the house this morning to walk the 20 minutes or so to the Internet Cafe – 26 degrees C, however, overcast and a few raindrops falling but I doubt it will come to anything.  My only regret being it is my last day today in Hania and there will be no beach.  However, it would be unfair of me to complain as up until today, the weather on Crete has been glorious, unlike much of Greece where elsewhere they are experiencing rain and cooler temperatures. 

On Monday it was very difficult for me to leave Kastelli and the family – although I was ready in time to catch the 1030 hours bus, I stayed on for lunch with Anna and Katina, finally leaving at 1400 hours.  With a few tears we said our farewells (I hate the word ‘goodbye’ – it is too final) and I know I will be back, probably sooner rather than later. 

I have known my friends Antonia and Vassilis for close to 30 years – we first met in Melbourne in the early 1980’s.  Their son Bill married a couple of years’ ago … their big news announcement, Bill’s wife Rena is 4 months’ pregnant with twins, a boy and a girl expected sometime in March!  On Tuesday, Bill and Rena came for lunch with Antonia, Vassilis and I, otherwise I have not caught up with anyone.  Seriously shopping in the mornings and evenings, meeting Antonia at the beach late morning (although not today) from where I visit the Internet Cafe then walk back to the house for lunch around 1500 – 1530 hours.  Yesterday at that time it was 30 degrees C.  After lunch it is time for siesta then around 1800 hours Antonia makes our Cappuccino’s.  In the evenings we read or watch TV – including two very good sub-titled Turkish serials.  

I have to say overall shopping has been fun – in the Agora where you can eat if you want or buy just about anything from souvenirs to local products, clothes, food and more.  Costas had bought me a coffee table book of Spetses and I wanted to find one for Crete.  Searched the bookstores until I found the one and only copy of a bilingual (Greek/English) photographic album about the island of Crete, it’s beauties and it’s people.  It is exactly what I wanted and I will treasure it always. 

Six months’ ago, Crete was my favourite place in Greece and still is – this island has an atmosphere, a heart, a pulse, a feeling and an essence like no other place I know.  If in the future I am to continue to live alone, then let it be here on Crete.  Tonight, however, I will leave Hania at 2300 hours aboard the Blue Star ferry, arriving in Piraeus at 0615 hours tomorrow morning.  From Piraeus the 0800 hours hydrofoil will take me safely back to Spetses in 2 hours 10 minutes – back to spend my last week in Greece with Costas.  I like to think there is a possibility that one day Spetses could also be my home … one precious week remaining for now, after which I will be guided by time.

Vassilis, his wife Litsa and I at Vanna and Roma's in Kastelli, Crete

Carrying a Gardenia (Costas’ favourite flower) plant I had bought at the local garden centre, yesterday morning I made my way up the hill to the local cemetery where Costas and other family members have been laid to rest.  Together in the family tomb with Costas who died on 16 November 1996 (aged 39) are his father Vassilis who died on 5 January 1971 (aged 62) and Costas’ brother Yani who died 9 March 2001 (aged 58).  Recently Katina commissioned a porcelain photograph of our three men which now sits proudly at the grave.  After filling and relighting the small lamp and watering the plants and flowers surrounding the tomb – having payed my respects, I left feeling more at peace with myself over our loss of Costas at such a young age. 

Katina had made Yemista for our lunch – not just stuffed tomatoes and capsicums but also vine leaves, courgette flowers, courgettes and eggplants – stuffed with rice and herbs and far superior to anything I have tasted elsewhere on my travels.  With the weather continuing to entice me, I left the house soon after 1300 hours to spend the afternoon on Kastelli beach, returning late afternoon to await Anna’s arrival home from Hania.  

Being Saturday evening, of course, there was to be a Table at Vanna and Roma’s – with emphasis last night on the fact that Roma had just had his Name Day on Friday and I was expecting to leave Kastelli today.  Katina telephoned for a taxi and on our way, we stopped at the Zaharoplastio where a bottle of Russian Vodka was bought for Roma.  As friends continued to arrive at the house bearing gifts, soon Roma had received five bottles of his favourite spirit, by which time I had given up counting.   Vanna had been working in her kitchen all day and as is always the case on such occasions, we sat down to a table with so much food – I ate and ate until I could eat no more and still I had not tried many of the dishes.  

Because our friend Jillie never eats meat, there is always fish on offer.  Last night Vanna had made a dish from Glossa (sole/plaice/flounder) fillets which are coated with a mixture of grated carrot, parsley, onion, yoghurt, a little mayonnaise, salt and pepper, rolled up and baked in the oven which everyone loved.  A wonderful accompaniment to the dish was a salad of lettuce, a little rocket, spring onion and red onion, tossed in a balsamic and olive oil dressing, topped with parmesan, pine nuts, cashews and slivered almonds and decorated with cucumber slices, cherry tomatoes and sliced capsicum. 

Dear Anna was so tired, after our meal she came home with Katina, however, I stayed until around 0200 hours and was the last to leave.  Vagelis borrowed Roma’s car to drive me home – Jillie and Rick stayed the night at Vanna and Roma’s.  An excellent idea since the drive to their house in Keramoti in the mountains, along a precarious stretch of road, is not a journey to be undertaken late at night after the consumption of alcohol.  I always enjoy drinking Roma’s wine but I think most of the men drank vodka.  A memorable evening for us all. 

By the time my friend Antonia telephoned me today, I had made a decision to stay one more night in Kastelli.  With Anna only returning from Hania yesterday, I want to spend a little more time with her before I leave.  Also, Katina’s daughter Joanna is visiting from Hania with her boyfriend Antonis and her cousins Rula and Rena.  The house is full and noisy, there will be no beach nor siesta for me today but never mind, such is life here with my Greek family.

Family members and others at Panayiri to celebrate Roma's Name Day

Much to my delight, on Wednesday morning Vanna came by the house and we spent a couple of hours catching up together.  After enjoying a lunch of Papoutsakia (literally – little shoes) eggplants stuffed with mince and topped with bechamel sauce, baked in the oven, together with another of Katina’s wonderful salads, I decided to give the beach a miss as the day was a little overcast … taking advantage of siesta instead being a good alternative.  We also learnt that Anna would not be returning to Kastelli from Hania until Saturday – disappointing for me as I will move on Sunday, allowing us very little time together.  In the evening a simple meal of Dakos – Paxamadia topped with fresh tomato pulp, olive oil, rigani and myzithra – simple Cretan fare! 

Everyday, Katina will ask me “Tee tha fame simera?” (What shall we eat today) – knowing full well that I am happy with whatever she prepares.  Yesterday Katina cooked meat in the oven with Kritharaki (a rice-shaped pasta also known as Orzo).  All the food is yummy here and notice how I like to rub it in – I will very much miss the Greek cuisine when I leave.  On my walk to the beach I saw Roma at his factory – 1 October is his Name Day and there was to be a Panayiri (also known as a Yiorti) at a small church on the outskirts of Kastelli last night.  A day early, however, celebrating a Saints feast day often takes place the evening before the actual Name Day.   

At 1700 hours Katina and I waited for Roma by the main road into town as it was arranged that he would take us to the Panayiri.  It is an annual event which in previous years I am told has been a big celebration with scores of people attending, masses of food, wine, dancing and merriment into the small hours of the morning.  However, last year after many had over indulged, a vehicle returning to Kastelli went over the bank along what is a secondary road and so this year it was to be a much quieter affair.  With the Papas ringing the church bells, proclaiming the beginning of the service, many people moved into the church, others mingled outside where the final blessings and dedication took place.  The special breads were cut and we all received pieces from the Papas, following which we enjoyed a simple meal of bread, cheese, sardines, kalitsounia and xerotigana – with wine or tsikoudia.  We were home by 2030 hours having been given a ride back with the Papas. 

It was at the Panayiri that I met Heinz-Peter and Ulrike, a German couple from Cologne.  Ten years’ ago they bought an old traditional house in the mountain village of Loussakies, a few kilometres from Kastelli and they come three times a year to stay.  I was delighted when Ulrike invited me to visit them.  Stopping at the Zaharoplastio to buy a half kilo of small sweet pastries on my way, as arranged Ulrike picked me up this morning at 1030 hours, by the periptero (kiosk) on the main road in town. 

From the first moment we arrived at their house in Loussakies I was in love – with the house, the peaceful environment and the location … in the mountains, with a view of the sea and Kastelli in the distance.  We talked a lot about Greeks –  their thinking and behaviours, their way of life and of the difficulties and all the wonderful things living in Greece has to offer.  After thanking my hosts and bidding them farewell just after 1700 hours to walk back to Kastelli, having turned down Ulrike’s offer to drive me, I understood very well that today I had had the pleasure of spending time with a couple, in a place, where I could also see I would be very happy living in the future.  That is, when and if Crete is one day to be my permanent home.

Kastelli beach with Gramvoussa peninsular in the background, Crete

Here in Kastelli, the days begin with Katina first tending to the animals then the table is made ready for a very simple breakfast.  Paximadia (thick slices of bread oven baked – made from excess bread so that nothing is wasted) spread with delicious runny honey or marmalada (jam made from peaches off their own tree), Graviere (a hard cheddar like cheese) a large mug of Greek coffee and a glass of water – a cup of goat’s milk (optional).  Hippocrates, the Father of Western Medicine 460 BC who said “Leave your drugs in the chemist’s pot if you can heal the patient with food” would have approved of the overall Cretan diet! 

With wonderful summer like weather continuing and daily temperatures in the high 20’s, for me the beach beckons and I will go there as often as I can – this afternoon it was for 3 hours and still I was reluctant to leave.  Yesterday at 1300 hours, I met up with my English friends Jillie and Rick at “Petra” Taverna on the Square.  Having returned to Crete a couple of weeks’ ago to their house in Keramoti – 40 minutes drive from Kastelli on the west coast, they have been working hard on their restorations.  Fortunate to have found a good plasterer in Jimmy, an Albanian who has been living here for 6 years, after sleeping for 2 weeks in a tent, they were looking forward last night to their bed.  Hopefully I will have an opportunity to visit them in Keramoti before I leave here on Sunday. 

Other familiar faces at “Petra” yesterday were Gijs from the Netherlands and Bob and Lorna, the English couple who have a permanent home in the nearby village of Ayios Giorgos.  After exchanging greetings with them all, I sat down with Jillie, Rick and Jimmy for a light lunch of Gyros and soft drinks.  Naturally, they were keen to hear all about my travels and curious to find out more about my relationship with Costas.  After lunch a drive to Roma’s factory followed by a visit to Roma and Vanna’s home proved fruitless, later we learnt Roma was working in Hania and Vanna was most likely having her siesta. 

Quite happy to walk back to our house, we said our farewells on the main road – in any case, I wished to pass by the Zaharoplastio (literally, sugar shop) to buy a 1 kilo box of mini ice creams as a gift to the household.  Incidentally, when invited to a Greek home, it is customary to take a small gift such as flowers or as is often the case, something like brandy, cakes or ice creams from the Zaharoplastio. 

Any time of day or night, unexpected visitors arrive and surprise us.  Yesterday there was a funeral in Kastelli for a 52 year old who died from a heart attack.  Vassilis (son of Costas’ sister Chrissoula – he was married last month in Iraklion) came from Hania for the funeral then visited us at the house.  During the evening Katina’s son Yanni who was in Kastelli for an appointment – he also came by the house with a female friend,  his mate Yiorgos arrived too and a table was laid.  The evening’s conversation centred mainly around Yanni who relished in telling us stories of his time doing compulsory military service. 

This evening Katina is busy making Kalitsounia – small pastries made from rolled dough, not phyllo and depending on how they are folded, baked or fried.  Sweet Kalitsounia are stuffed with fresh soft Myzithra, a whey cheese (made from milk from the family goat) and eaten drizzled with delicious thyme honey.  Savoury Kalitsounia are stuffed with spinach, wild greens and herbs and are equally delicious! 

It’s not quite the same without Anna here – most likely she will return from Hania sometime tomorrow and I very much look forward to seeing her.

View towards Rodopou peninsular from family home, Kastelli, Crete

Yesterday’s exhaustion, bought on by my overnight sleepless ferry journey from Piraeus to Crete, has today left me, for which I am most grateful.  Any thoughts I had of visiting Vanna and Roma last evening – there is always an open home policy in force there for family and friends to pop in on a Saturday night, to eat, drink, talk, laugh a lot and listen to music – well, I was much too tired and retired early around midnight.  This morning I was woken by loud shouting and much to my surprise, the time was 1045 hours … I had slept well. 

It has been very quiet here – with many of the younger family members now working and living in Hania and none returning to Kastelli this weekend.  What I am really enjoying is the food, not that I have had food elsewhere that was disagreeable but rather – Katina quite simply prepares the very best from the freshest of ingredients … food to die for!  Yesterday when asked what I would like for lunch I said “Mia Salata” (a salad) which made Katina laugh.  She cooked Biftekia (meat rissoles) and made an amazing salad, the best I have enjoyed ever.  Not just your basic Greek salad, it had tomato, cucumber, red onion, small black olives, pickled green peppers, chunks of potato, purslane and fresh basil, tossed in an unforgettable dressing.  Today for lunch, Katina, Katerina (a grand daughter of hers) and I had chicken in sauce with Hilopita (homemade noodles).  Back in the days when I lived here, all the women in the family would come together for an afternoon and we would make copious amounts of Hilopita, enough to see us through the winter months.  Recently, Katina on her own made 8 kilos of flour into Hilopita – no woman I know works harder than she does.  At the moment we have green seedless grapes – so, so sweet and delicious! 

Of all the cats who were resident here in May, only one remains – the rest have perished as many do, one way or another they meet their deaths on the road or mysteriously die, their tiny bodies found in the garden.  I suspect many are poisoned.  There is, however, a new addition, rescued from a rubbish bin in Hania by Yani and this cat and Billy the family dog love to play together. 

When I moved on in May the goat was pregnant.  Within days she had given birth to two kids – one died at birth, the other was eaten on 15 August, the day when all Greeks celebrate and commemorate the Assumption of the Virgin Mary.  

Today after lunch I made my way down to Kastelli beach which is not the most amazing beach in Greece but I love it.  Kastelli sits in the bay between two peninsulars – Rodopou and Gramvoussa.  The beach is somewhat stony, however, the sea is wonderful – still very warm once you are in it and the sun still has the ability to burn, even though along with the crowds, summer has gone and supposedly autumn should have arrived.  I will definitely return to the beach every day that I can, making the most of it until I must move on … at the moment, I plan to do so next Sunday.

Anek Lines ferry boat "LATO" - Port of Piraeus

It was with a degree of sadness, that after sixteen fantastic days I said my farewell to Spetses and Costas yesterday, in order to make a return visit to Crete to see the family in Kastelli and my friends in Hania. Leaving on the 1700 hours hydrofoil, allowing time to catch the 2100 hours ferry from Piraeus to Hania, it was a ride when my feelings were engulfed with thoughts of – why did I have to leave now when I was so happy and content there?  But it is okay, I have so many wonderful memories of our time together – such as occasions at Spiros’ bar after closing of Bar Spetsa, sitting out on the balcony under the stars with the lights shining and shimmering on the water.  Leaving there for me to make the short walk home, with Costas riding ahead on his bicycle singing “Raindrops keep falling on my head …” – he would often pass by the bakery to buy fresh Spanakopita which we would devour before retiring, so yummy! 

These days one’s only choice to travel from Spetses to Piraeus is by catamaran or hydrofoil – both expensive at 35 Euro for a two hour trip.  Yesterday it was a quiet and peaceful ride as far as Hydra, then hordes of rather noisy people boarded, almost filling the vessel to capacity.  I have never much liked Piraeus, it can appear grey, dirty and always the traffic is chaotic, however, I set out on foot to walk from Gate 8 to Gate 4.  I was almost there when I remembered there exists a free bus service to cover the distance but it was too late and I had a blister.  Purchased my ticket for Anek Lines ferry boat “LATO” – 28 Euro for an 8 1/2 hour journey – we would arrive in Hania at 0530 hours this morning, Saturday.  No shortage of passengers who were mainly Greeks, including one disagreeable moron who decided he wanted a particular seat someone else had already claimed and he continued to be obnoxious.  The final straw – click, click with his worry beads when everyone wanted to try for a little sleep! 

Thankfully I had packed a jacket in my day pack as where I sat in the lounge reading, the air conditioning was freezing cold.  Also grateful to have a book to read – “Greece On My Wheels” by Edward Enfield – which I had picked from one of Costas’ many well stocked bookshelves.  I am enjoying reading another person’s travel writing.  When the hunger pangs arrived in my tummy, I headed off to the self service restaurant for a plate of Fasolakia me Patates (green beans with potatoes) – overly oily and costing 6 Euro, I did not much enjoy them.  As midnight approached, I found a space on the floor to curl up, with a magazine over my head to partially keep out the light and protect my neck and shoulders from the cold air conditioning.  Having recently become accustomed to late nights, i.e. retiring early morning, as well as the hard floor, meant very little sleep was forthcoming.

When the announcement came that we were only a few minutes away from arrival in Hania, the passengers began making their way to the exit.  Forced to wait at the top of the stairs down to the lower deck, I could sense the impatience building up in these weary travellers and for a time, feared there might be a stampede once the gate was opened.  By the time I realised Anek Lines were offering small glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice, there was no way I could forge my way back through the crowd so went without.

Assuming I would have no choice but to take a somewhat expensive taxi ride from the port to the Hania Bus Station, once off the ferry I was overjoyed to find a local bus operating the route at a cost of only 1.30 Euro.  When I arrived at the bus station it was 0615 hours – perfect timing to catch the first bus of the day to Kastelli at 0630 hours.  Lucky enough to procure a front seat directly behind the driver, I stood up just before we reached Kastelli and asked “Please, can I get off at Kamara?” – which I did, the bus stop located near the family home.  It was 0730 hours and Katina was awaiting me for coffee and breakfast.  Now it is midday and lunch will soon be served.  Anna the family matriarch is in Hania at present so it feels somewhat strange without her here.  This morning I saw Katina’s son Vassilis and an old friend of this family’s Costas.  He has lived in Sweden for the past 20 years but remembers me well from when I lived in Kastelli back in the early 80’s.

It is now 1800 hours.  This afternoon I spoke briefly with Costas who told me around 0400 hours this morning, unbelievably, another deluge hit Spetses, similar to the one 2 weeks’ ago on the evening of the Armata.  He has mud in Bar Spetsa and flooding in the house – I wish I was there to help him.  He will telephone me again in a couple of days.