Itisallgreek2me

The Wedding of Antonio and Johanna

Saturday in Kastelli Kissamos … the weather could not have been better for the Greek Orthodox Church Wedding (o gamos) Ceremony of Antoni and Johanna.  Scheduled for 1800 hours, in the late afternoon extended family members began to congregate at our home, the bride (h nifi) arriving from Hania around 1700 hours – hair and makeup all done, however, she would get dressed in her wedding gown at the house.  A more relaxed bride would I think be difficult to find … lots of photographs then off to the church.  The groom (o gambros) arrived first with his best man (koumbaros) and family, awaiting his bride at the front of the church.  Holding his bride’s bouquet, he presented it to her as she arrived and they walked into the church together. 

Soon after the start of the ceremony which was to take around 45 minutes, the priest blessed the rings and placed them on their right hands.  Then the wedding crowns (stefana) which were joined by a ribbon were placed on the bride and groom by the best man, who then stood behind the couple and interchanged the crowns three times as a witness to the sealing of the union.  Then the couple both drank from a goblet of wine – the “Common Cup”.  The wedding ended with a ceremonial walk where the priest, bride, groom and best man joined hands and walked around in a circle three times … the bride and groom’s first steps together as a married couple.  As they began the ceremonial walk, the guests showered rice and rose petals over them. 

At the end all the guests filed past the bride and groom in the church to congratulate them, the parents and best man standing alongside.  The best man is guest of honour and just as important as the bride and groom.  It is customary to say “na zisete” (long life to you) to the bride and groom and “na zisoun” (long life to them) to the head members of the two families.  This was also the time for the guests to drop an envelope of cash (fakelaki) into a special container – the guests’ wedding present.  I chose to be different and took them a gift from New Zealand. 

The wedding reception with some 500 guests was held at a Centre at Maleme, between Kastelli and Hania … with life Cretan music and a feast of local food, wine and tsikoudia.  As dictated by custom, the bride would dance for much of the evening, with guests taking turns to dance with her – beginning with the groom, then the best man and his family.  Anna, grandmother of the bride and family matriarch (90 next month) had been saying all week that she would only be going to the church, however, she also came to the reception, showing her normal remarkable stamina.  When we eventually arrived back in Kastelli, I assisted Anna down our little road to the house and by 0230 hours, up the completed new staircase to bed. 

As well as taking home Xerotigana, all the guests took a Bomboniere … a bag made from tulle and satin, filled with five white sugared almonds symbolizing health, wealth, happiness, fertility and long life. 

I feel great satisfaction, that I made the journey to be with them all on this very memorable occasion – Johanna’s wedding … the wee girl I have known for some 30 years.

Thespina and Katina - making Xerotigana

When I left Hania on the 1100 hours bus Monday bound for Kastelli, it was still raining.  Arrived at the family home shortly after midday to a warm welcome … I would never expect anything less.  A hive of industry as everyone here helped in the making of the traditional Cretan wedding sweet – Xerotigana.  Into their third day of labouring to make approximately 1,000 from 18 kilos of flour.  Once the dough (which contains no sugar, eggs or butter) is rolled out, cut into strips and formed into spirals, it is quickly fried in hot oil then set aside to drain.  Tomorrow the spirals will be dipped in a hot honey syrup and sprinkled with sugar, cinnamon and ground almonds.  500 will be taken to the church and the other 500 to the reception.

With everyone hard at work, there was no room for any quiet, sombre mood … to the contrary, much merriment and laughter. When the job was done, the table was set for a late lunch which included dolmadakia (stuffed courgette flowers) and kalitsounia (pastries filled with horta and sprinkled with sesame seeds) and as always, a glass or two of wine.  Such an abundance of wonderful food, you have a right to feel jealous of me.

That evening, among others, Vanna and Roma came to see me and naturally, another table full of yummy things to eat.  Vanna has been walking six kilometres every morning and spending time in the Gym.  As a consequence, she has shed 23 kilos to date and is looking great!  Well done Vanna.  They were very late leaving, however, I managed to hang in there.  Very grateful to finally get into bed, albeit an uncomfortable one.  It never ceases to amaze me how all the beds in Greece can be so hard and yet no one ever complains.  My body clock still struggling to adjust to the time zone change.

By yesterday the rain had left us.  Awoke to the bluest of skies that one only experiences in Ellada with bright sunshine and today is no different.  The hive of activity continues inside and out as the two Vasili’s work honestly to complete work on the external staircase.  The country is in the grips of a 48 hour strike – everything is closed and transport thrown into chaos … hopefully my travel plans on Monday will not be disrupted.  Yesterday I went to top up my mobile phone with a 20 Euro card only to learn I would get 12% less credit as there is a new tax on mobiles.  I guess the Government now have to do whatever they can to control and reduce the country’s debt.  All Europe is struggling, however, no more so than here in Greece … a pity they ever joined the European Union.

The long range weather forecast is looking good for the weekend and Saturday’s wedding.  Although 500 guests have been invited, this is not a lot by Greek standards.  Antoni and Johanna will marry at a church here in Kastelli at 1800 hours with the reception to follow at a function centre in Maleme – on the coast between here and Hania.  There is still much to be done to make ready for the happy occasion.

Helen and Antonia at entrance to Diktaion Andron cave

Suffering unbelievable fatigue, how wonderful it was to finally lay down in my bed, however, my sleep was erratic … of course, it can take many days for the body clock to adjust after such a lengthy journey.  Never mind the beds in Greece – nearly always as hard as nails, they have always been like this … I do miss the comfort of my own. 

On Saturday around 1430 hours I ventured out to make the short walk to a Supermarket nearby.  To my surprise, the temperature was 32 degrees C – exactly what I ordered!  Alas, it was not to last … by 1630 hours when Antonia and I left the house to go and watch her grandson Constantinos playing soccer, the temperature had dropped to 19 degrees C and heavy rain had arrived.  Rain – oh my God, you cannot imagine what a deluge it was but surprisingly, the boys played on, only to lose 2-0.  We stayed and watched in amazement from the relative comfort of a covered stand, as they tried to move the ball around on a field completely covered with water.  With Antonia’s daughter Mary, other son Billy and a vocal crowd of supporters drinking Raki and eating chestnuts – only in Greece can one experience such an atmosphere. 

My plans had been to leave for Kastelli on Sunday, however, Antonia asked me to join her on an ekthromi (trip) to the Lassithi Plateau in eastern Crete.  At 0720 hours on Sunday, undeterred by the rain, Antonia’s husband Vasilies took us to await our bus – a few people had opted out, however, those remaining were to experience a great day.  Listening to and singing along to music as we made our way east past Rethymno and Iraklion.  Joke telling and mantinades … the Cretan mantinada is a rhyming couplet in Cretan dialect.  Each mantinada is complete in itself in spite of its short length, like a limerick.  The mantinada is the unique way in which young and old in Crete can express their many and varied emotions:  sorrow, joy, hope, desire, love, anger, revenge, nostalgia.

After a morning coffee stop along the way, we reached the Lassithi Plateau in sunshine.  A large scenic plain located 70 kilometres from Iraklion and at an average altitude of 840 metres.  Famous for some 10,000 white sailed windmills used for decades to irrigate the land, most abandoned nowadays in favour of modern diesel and electrical pumps.  Also famous for the Diktaion Andron cave which according to Greek Mythology was the birthplace of Zeus.  Alas, the cave was closed due to another strike.  Nevertheless, some of us made the 20 minute walk up to the cave entrance and back down.  Following a round trip of the Plateau, our bus stopped at a Taverna for lunch.  Sharing an outside table with others and ordering our plates of food and wine the Greek way – verbally, not from reading a menu … surrounded by serious tourists, partaking of for example, a Greek Salad with a cappuccino – very strange! 

With the clouds fast rolling in, we boarded our bus for the descent and return journey, stopping once to visit a Monastery and later for our afternoon caffeine fix … back to Hania in darkness and rain.  Our itinerary was to have included a side trip to the small hillside village of Fodele, reputedly the birthplace of the Renaissance artist El Greco, however, weather conditions being such, we did not go there.

In spite of Greece’s dire economic situation, Greek spirit prevails … very evident at the soccer game and again on our bus trip.

Telephoned Costas that evening who was to inform me of the All Blacks win 20-6 against the Wallabies – fantastico!  I have every confidence in our boys winning the Cup next weekend in the final against France.  GO THE BLACKS!

Helen and Vivienne

0530 hours 13 October 2011 NZ time … too late to worry further on issues concerning work, time to rise and make ready for yet another journey to Greece.  Johanna and Ewart in the Unit below me (I sold them the property recently … you could say I picked my new neighbours and what a great choice I made) together with family, will take care and keep watch of home whilst I am away.  Enjoyed a coffee at The Yellow House with mother, Dave and Kayla before heading out to Wanganui Airport … my dear sister Janet pulling up beside us, having just arrived from Taupo.  Next surprise … thick cloud would prevent our flight departure from Wanganui – the alternative being an hour’s bus ride to Palmerston North where we boarded our ”pencil” plane for the flight to Auckland.  The worst aspect of that particular part of my journey – a young girl sitting close by, sobbing hysterically the entire way, I cannot imagine what could have been so upsetting.

Arrival in Auckland an hour behind schedule but still plenty of time to once again meet with my long standing friend Vivienne to catch up and share a bottle of wine.  Farewelled and time to move on to board my Emirates flight on a B777-300ER – window seat, 2nd row in Economy, not bad!  Soon dinner would be served – I was rather hungry and so really enjoyed my meal.  After commencing our descent into Brisbane came the announcement “20 minute delay due to a thunderstorm in the area”.  Arrival 1830 hours local time, temperature 23 degrees C. 

12 hours after arriving at Wanganui Airport, we were still sitting on the tarmac at Brisbane Airport.  At last, take off for the long flight to Dubai some 12,000 kilometres away!  Yet another dinner to be served, snacks throughout the long night then breakfast and finally touchdown in Dubai where the temperature was 30 degrees C.  Approximately 6 hours later, departure from Dubai on the daily flight to Athens with interestingly, the passengers being predominently Asians.  Perhaps they are better off financially than the rest of the world in this time of global crisis.  Somehow it felt satisfying being able to identify some of the Greek islands as we flew over in mainly clear, blue skies – touchdown in Athens 1400 hours local time on Friday 14 October.  I was extremely happy to be back once again in Ellada.

More time to wait before making the final leg of my journey to Hania, Kriti.  Athens Airport appeared to be extra busy and so I allowed plenty of time to make my way slowly downstairs to pass through the security checks and on to departure Gate B31.  In Dubai, among other duty free goods, I had purchased a 200ml bottle of Paco Rabane for Costas.  I never gave it another thought until security pounced on it, applying the 100ml rule and telling me I could not keep it.  Still sealed and with receipt meant nothing … they seemed hell bent on taking it from me.  There was only one action for me to take – a race back upstairs to check in where I wrapped the package in my black coat, stuffed it into my carry on bag and checked it in, followed by a race back, again through security check and on to the departure Gate.

Feeling more exhausted by the minute, then came the announcement … due to an Air Traffic Controllers strike, our flight was delayed, finally arriving in Hania 2 hours late!  As things tend to unfold in Greece, it was not without surprise that I learnt the last bus into the Centre had already gone, no thought given to waiting for the late arrival of our flight.  Had to take a taxi instead at a cost of 23 Euro.  With my friend Antonia out babysitting, she had left me a key – a key and a large metal door which I knew had beaten me in the past and yes, you guessed right.  Fatigued to the max, I had no luck with opening the door, waiting until 2315 hours for Antonia to arrive home and let me in.

Finally, 52 hours after getting up in Wanganui, I had reached my destination – for now, anyway.   The trials and tribulations of travel!

Costas and I, Bar Balkoni, Spetses

One week ago today, I left Spetses to make the journey back to New Zealand.  My last few days with Costas were as precious as all the others … good times continued in Bar Spetsa as well as Bar Balkoni after closing – on Thursday night with Raymond and Heather too, as on my last evening there, I would go home at midnight, knowing I had a long way to travel the next day.  A group of French people were back in the Bar on that last evening until late, resulting in Costas not arriving home until after 0500 hours.  Never mind, business is business!  Unfortunately, every day of that last week, our sleep was disturbed from 0800 hours onwards by workmen using a pneumatic drill to dig out a cesspit at one of the neighbouring houses.

Wouldn’t you know it … a bright, sunny day, albeit with a chill in the breeze, on the morning I departed.  Left the house in time for a coffee out – Raymond and Heather showed up too, then around 1035 hours I was reluctantly on my way.  With three more stops to pick up passengers, by the time we arrived in Piraeus, my suitcase was well buried, however, not too long to wait for the X96 Airport bus, with just enough time to do all the necessaries and telephone Costas before departure.  Too tired to think much about anything … reality hit at the time of takeoff – I was leaving Greece yet again.

Had a nice meal – Taramasalata with a stuffed vine leaf as a starter followed by chicken for dinner.  With a tail wind, we made Dubai in good time and two hours later I was at the Copthorne Airport Hotel, five minutes bus ride away.  Much to my surprise, when checking in I was given complimentary vouchers for dinner, a snack and breakfast.  My interest, however, was only in getting to bed and asleep as soon as possible, knowing at 0700 hours, the wake up call would come and by 0800 hours I would be on a bus back to the airport to check in for the long haul back to Wanganui, via Sydney and Auckland.  Remembering only too well how I had my duty free alcohol confiscated last year at Sydney airport, this time it was again purchased in Athens then safely packed away in my checked in luggage in Dubai.

Past experience on these long hauls has been – by the time I arrive back in New Zealand, I have heartburn or indigestion from eating then sitting all those hours on the aeroplane.  So, this time I decided to change from the Standard Meal to Vegetarian option … never again!  My first meal consisted of Noodles and Veges in curry sauce – I had to pick out all the red chillies to make it edible and still it was way too hot!  Very sweet stewed boysenberries for dessert … not impressed!  Breakfast on the Sydney/Auckland leg was chunks of potatoes, again in a curry sauce – hardly a breakfast affair!  Oh well, at least now I know to stick with Standard Meals in the future.

For the Dubai/Sydney/Auckland sector I was once again on the A380-800 Airbus in my favourite seat number 50K … with the two seats next to me vacant from Dubai to Sydney, I was able to have my feet up all the way and even managed to curl up for a few hours and doze – this was truly a bonus.  As always, I listened to a stack of music – from the Essential Albums and UK No.1 Hits from the 50’s, 60’s and 70’s.  Unusually for me, I also watched a couple of movies I had missed seeing at the Cinema … “The King’s Speech” which I thoroughly enjoyed and “Eat Pray Love” with Julia Roberts.

So it was that I arrived back in Wanganui late on Monday afternoon, to be met by my Mum, son Dave and his girlfriend Kayla.  There is nowhere else I would rather be than Spetses right now, but for the meantime, I will create a life in two places.  I am back at work and quickly adjusting to life here … my plan is to head back to Greece in October, attend the wedding of Joanna and Antonis in Kastelli on Crete on 22 October, then return to Spetses for another visit of about five weeks’ duration.  Now that is truly something to aim for!

Costas, Raymond, Heather and I - Sunday lunch, Liotrivi, Old Harbour

A year ago today, I first met Costas.  Who would have thought then, that I would be here now in this relationship?  Today, for the first time in many years, I cooked Fakes (pronounced fah-kes) brown lentil soup … a classic Greek dish, both economical and nutritious – it was yummy!

The days are slipping by rather too quickly now … on Saturday I will begin my journey back to New Zealand.  Most evenings I leave home for the Bar around 0100 hours then stay until closing around 0400 – 0500 hours.  Yesterday was an exception … we had a lunch date with Raymond and Heather at 1400 hours, the venue “Liotrivi” in the Old Harbour.  With no taxis waiting, we took a ride on a horse and cart – the afternoon weather was perfect.  Roland the Chef, as well as his work colleagues Peter and Dimitris, are all frequent visitors to Bar Spetsa … I had been told Roland’s food was simple and delicious – I was not disappointed.

We sat at an outside table, on a platform jutting out into the harbour – Heather and I in the glorious sunshine.  A fishing boat came in with a delivery of fresh tuna and swordfish for George, the restaurant owner.  With his Bar to open, Costas left early, leaving we three to stay on talking and drinking until around 2000 hours when we piled on to the bike, our last drinks in plastic cups in hand, for the ride to Bar Spetsa.  Most nights business there has been very good … last night I walked home around 0100 hours – tired but happy, it had been rather a long day.

Here at home, we mostly watch the BBC News channel and of course, last Friday along with billions of people all over the world, we were able to follow the pomp and pageantry of the Royal Wedding.  Today the news is all about the killing of Osama Bin Laden – in Costas’ words “Barack 1 – Osama 0”.

Once again, it is going to be difficult adjusting to life back in New Zealand but with a goal and an aim to be back in Greece come October, there will be plenty of incentive for me to work hard, enjoy my family and friends and cope with the impending winter.  Meanwhile, expect another blog or two before this journey is over.

My time for turning the spit - Easter Sunday

Megali Paraskevi (Holy Friday) – a day of mourning.  In the evening, like all good Orthodox Greeks, Katina and Katerina would go to one of the local churches, however, I stayed back at the house, not wanting to leave Anna on her own.  My friends from Hania are here too – I would visit Antonia after Katina returned home.  At 2240 hours, Vassiles arrived to assist Anna upstairs to bed – made my way to Antonia’s … no one home.  Since I was late, they too had gone into Kastelli … never mind, we would catch up sometime on Saturday.

Saturday morning I purposely rose late, knowing full well that the sheep grazing in our yard was to be slaughtered and within 24 hours would be roasting on the spit – a scenario being repeated the full length and breadth of Ellada (Greece).  With butchers in high demand on Easter Saturday, although he did not much like the job, Vassiles had done the deed and the carcass was hanging from the clothesline.  I distracted myself by going to see the young goats, rabbits, chickens and Bin Laden … all very much alive!

The morning passed quickly with a visit to see Antonia, the arrival of Yanni and Joanna from Hania, also Kostoula and her daughters Maria and Katerina.  Gorgeous weather saw me sitting in the sun reading, until it was time to begin making Kalitsounia – sweet or savoury pies made with rolled pastry, filled with anthotyro (a soft fresh whey cheese, usually made from sheep’s milk) and sometimes spinach and herbs, then either baked or fried.  We made at least 150 which were taken to the local bakery to be baked as our oven was playing up, plus a smaller quantity for frying – to be eaten drizzled with thyme honey.  When the baked ones were brought home from the bakery in a large basket, we covered them with Faskomilo (wild Sage) from the mountains – the smell simply divine.  Vassiles and Yanni had prepared the pit for spit roasting the lamb. 

I remember well, Easter in Kastelli in the early 1980’s when the family consisted of 22 members … including me.  At that time, Costas’ four siblings and their families all lived in Kastelli, within walking distance of our house and it was easy for us all to get together.  Now the family are spread out with one branch in Germany, another in Hania and two remaining in Kastelli.  As Vanna and Roma’s branch would be celebrating Easter Sunday at their house with family and friends, Roma and Despina called by on Saturday evening.  At midnight, most of Greece would be out on the streets and in churches to celebrate The Anastasi (Resurrection of Christ).  Then church bells tolled, pistols were fired and fireworks lit. 

Sunday morning arrived and with favourable weather, by 0900 hours the roasting of the lamb on the spit had begun.  Everyone takes a turn at sitting by the embers of the fire, turning the spit and enjoying the company and camaraderie.  We would be joined for the meal by Joanna’s fiancee, Antonis, his brother, parents and grandmother.  Joanna and Antonis are to be married in Kastelli on 22 October … I will be invited and plan to be there!  No sooner had we sat down to eat and drink when a neighbour called by to tell Vassiles about a swarm of bees nearby – beekeeping happens to be a hobby of his.  Without eating he went off with a jar of honey to coax them – returning jubilant … the job done.  What a feast we had … then as is tradition, cracked our red dyed eggs to see whose would be the last undamaged – the lucky one.  A visit from big Vassiles – always enjoyable company, with his marked Cretan accent.

Monday, another lovely day … I walked to Vanna’s to have coffee, then back via the garden shop to buy a plant (this time, a white carnation) to leave at the cemetery for Costas.  Last October I had left a Gardenia and to my surprise and joy,  it is still there, looking healthy and well.  Tuesday morning, an early lunch of Horta (wild greens), broad beans and hard boiled eggs … the usual sad farewells and aboard the 1230 hours bus to Hania.  Walked to Antonia and Vassiles house, later in the afternoon into town for a little shopping and to buy my ticket for Anek Lines ferry boat “Elyros” departing 2100 hours for Piraeus.  A brief moment of despair in the ticket office when I was told the ferry was full, however, a telephone call to somewhere, then a ticket for me produced – phew!  Antonia drove me to Souda Bay, boarded around 2000 hours, a massive ferry and rather posh compared to the one I had gone down on, found myself enough space on a seat where I could later curl up and doze, arrived in Piraeus shortly after 0500 hours this morning.  Dark and with persistent rain, no wet weather gear, I stayed on the ferry for another two hours, eventually setting off with a plastic bag on my head (looking like a complete idiot) to walk to Gate E8 and to catch the 0800 hours hydrofoil to Spetses.  Arrived here around 1030 hours, walked again in the rain to the house, oh am I so happy to be here.

Travelling is not always plain sailing!

Preparing Tsoureki - sweet Easter bread

With Easter still a few days away, business in Bar Spetsa indicates a busy time ahead for Costas … an ideal time for me to travel south and visit my family and friends on Crete.

Riding on the hydrofoil yesterday from Spetses to Piraeus … as I see any small island jutting out from the sea, I realise I am in love with the  rawness of the Greek landscape.  A walk under grey skies from Gate E8 to Gate E3 and a fairly normal for Greece queue-less wait to buy my ticket for Lane Lines ferry boat “Vitsentzos Kornaros”.  My observations over many years show Greeks do not believe in queues – they go to the front of the line – create havoc, or – stand in the queue and still, create havoc!

A hydrofoil ticket from Spetses to Piraeus currently costs Euro 37.50 for a 2 – 2 1/2 hour ride.  By comparison, a ferry boat ticket from Piraeus to Kissamos (Kastelli) currently costs Euro 26 for a 10 1/2 hour journey – good value!  I boarded nice and early then found an agreeable posy for people watching, should I feel inclined to do so and a very full ferry departed at 1500 hours.  The on board self service Restaurant opened for lunch a short time later, as it would open for dinner later on.  I made a start on Nikos Kazantzakis’ Freedom and Death – a fitting read for Easter week on Crete and a constant reminder of the strength and pride of the island’s people. 

First stop – Diakofti on the island of Kythira at around 2145 hours, saw an almost total disemboweling of passengers and vehicles with a skeleton number remaining – less weight – more rolling of the vessel.  0130 hours, tired and still a way to go – we would be late arriving.  Finally, the call came to make our way down to the Garage and be ready for disembarkation.  This was followed by at least 30 minutes of the crew desperately trying to dock the boat parallel to the wharf and to lower the massive garage door, allowing us to leave safely.

I became aware of my next challenge even before making land … I could see there were no taxis waiting – how would I make my way to the house, at this hour, with a rather nasty cold wind blowing and only a handful of people to target?  With no choice, I began to ask around “Excuse me, are you going to Kastelli?”  Fortunately, a lady being met by her nephew to be taken to her village of birth nearby – her nephew was happy that I could go along for the ride and be dropped off later in Kastelli. 

Now off the ferry but still unable to move on … my first experience of Police – meeting a boat, talking with various passengers and checking passports, then using a German Shepherd to sniff all our baggage but nothing found.  At last, free to go and my heartfelt thanks to the young man who dropped me off at 0245 hours where Katina was patiently waiting, surrounded by all she had made ready for a 0530 hours start today – Megali Pempti (Holy Thursday).  A large quantity of dough was made this morning, shaped later in the day into loaves of Tsoureki, a sweet Easter bread … eggs dyed red, symbolising the blood of Christ, placed carefully atop each one.  Anna, Katina, Maria (17) and Katerina (15) Katina’s grand daughters, had all been to church too and returned home before I made an appearance.

Tomorrow is Megali Paraskevi (Holy Friday) … a day of rest and fasting for the faithful.

Open fire at Costas 17 April 2011

Halfway through my stay and I feel very grateful to be here … the one and only dampener – the frustration of not being able to overcome the cold, flu, bug or whatever it is I have that has refused to leave me for two weeks’ now.  Today I started a course of antibiotics – I hope to be feeling better than this before Wednesday when I make my journey to Crete.  Rest assured, I’m being incredibly well looked after.

With many late nights out in the bar, I like to walk whenever I can in the sun and fresh air – camera in hand, looking for any photographic opportunities.  On one such day, starting on the waterfront road by The Poseidonion and statue of Bouboulina – the island’s heroine – heading out of town past The Anastis Church by the sea and the Anaryirios and Koulayanios College, the only working public school in Greece with numerous very large buildings, set amidst partially neglected park like grounds.   The narrow streets of Spetses would be a town planner’s nightmare, however, they offer so much with the wrought iron gates and window grills and wooden doors and shutters … homes abandoned, others humble, standing alongside mansions.

Our lunch date on Thursday to meet Raymond and Heather went ahead but not at The Poseidonion … still not organised to open for lunch there and so it was we ended up at Phillipos for salads and pasta.  Friday saw me taking a little excursion at 1055 hours on the Flying Dolphin XXIX  hydrofoil to Hydra to meet my Canadian writer friend Anna.  We enjoyed lunch at a quiet and peaceful Taverna a short walk up from the harbour to the back of town then said our farewells as she boarded the Flying Cat 2 catamaran, the beginning of Anna’s journey to Lemnos.  Within an hour I was back on the same Flying Dolphin returning to Spetses around 1600 hours. 

It is almost impossible to describe the atmosphere that prevails at Bar Spetsa.  Friday evening I went there early, planning to come home early – jokingly Costas said, “What, 0430 hours?”  It was one of those nights with a party atmosphere … kept company with Alex and two young Athenian women, here for a weekend stay at the Poseidonion and looking to have a good time.  They had no prior knowledge of Bar Spetsa, walked by, came in and so it was Costas finally closed at 0510 hours and we came home to sleep.  Last night being Saturday we expected things to be much the same, however, to the contrary, it was far more subdued … quiet drinkers, heavy smokers (the Greek Government’s latest bid to ban smoking in public places as of 1 September 2010 failed miserably) much conversation and as always, fantastic music.  I left early around 1230 hours and tonight I’m at home.  It seems winter has returned  … as I sit by the open fire, it is very cold and wet outside.

Wednesday I leave on my journey to Crete to stay with my extended Greek family in Kastelli … probably my friends from Hania will also spend Easter there.  Right now I plan to rest, keep warm and hope in another three days I will be feeling a great deal better and up to the task.

Spetses

Actually, the beauty exists here at any time of the year … it’s just that I particularly love the wild flowers of Spring as my images testify.  A couple of days’ ago I enjoyed an afternoon stroll to the Old Harbour – very few people or scooters to dodge during what is traditionally here, siesta time. 

Yesterday the weather was so glorious that in spite of having had a very late night out in Bar Spetsa – home around 0430 hours, I was determined to take a walk up in the mountains.  Left the house at 1500 hours, returning some two hours later.  At one point on my way up, as I emerged from a spot off the track, a Greek man stopped to ask me “Have you seen any snake?” “No and I’m not afraid” I replied.  “No, no” he said, “At this time of year, they are coming out to lie in the sun so be careful”.  I thanked him for his cautionary advice.  In fact, the only scary moment I had was as I walked along the ridge, suddenly I could hear dogs a little further on.  Reminded of the scare I had early one morning last year as I walked along a quiet road in Northern Greece and the humongous dog which confronted me there – I took an about turn and headed back to the fork in the road from where I had come.

Occasionally, as is the case tonight, I am staying at home for a quiet one.  The last two evenings business has been brisk in Bar Spetsa where I mostly find someone to keep company with.  Raymond and Heather arrived back on the island this week from Aberdeen and will stay here until well after the summer.  Alex from the New Forest in England is here with other family members for a couple of weeks’ stay – he has been visiting the island for 30 years … there is something very special about this place and people fall in love with it.

Costas closed the Bar last night at 0300 hours – we piled on to Panayiotis scooter, heading for the Old Harbour and the Music Club “La Lus” for a couple of drinks and to listen to live Greek music.  With dozens of scooters parked outside, inside the place was positively pumping – the music incredibly loud but very good, encouraging a few to get up and dance, including a young exhibitionist woman wearing a well fitting dress and stilettos … many of the customers also customers of Bar Spetsa.  Around 0500 hours, Panayiotis delivered us back home, taking great care along the way to look out for other wayward scooter riders.

The food – glorious Greek food – as always I am loving it!  As well as the usual fresh crusty bread Costas brings home from the bakery daily, he has taken to buying Bougatsa, a breakfast pastry consisting of custard or cheese filling between layers of phyllo pastry – yummy!  Today we had lunch out at Bouboulina Restaurant next to the fish market.  Fava (a creamy dip made from yellow split peas, sprinkled with olive oil and lemon juice, garnished with red onion and parsley), Calamari (squid), Kolokithakia (long strips of zucchini dipped in a light batter and deep fried) and of course, the usual Psomi (bread) and a shared bottle of Amstel beer.

On Tuesday morning my Canadian writer friend Anna will be arriving in Athens and moving on to the nearby island of Hydra for a few days stay – I am looking forward to catching up with her some time during the coming week.  On Thursday, Costas and I will have lunch out at The Poseidonion with Raymond and Heather.  My stay here continues to be enjoyable, relaxing and all positive.