Itisallgreek2me

Kastelli Kissamos – Crete

The long hours and hard work preceding my time away are not forgotten … nor will my precious few days here in Kastelli Kissamos with my Greek family be forgotten.  Building on memories we share which go back over 30 years, yesterday morning I made my pilgrimage up the hill to the cemetery, carrying a new Gardenia … sporting four beautiful blooms and an abundance of buds, promising many more flowers to come.  The Gardenia was, of course, Costas’ favourite flower … with unprecedented rainfall here this past winter, almost all of our plants at the graveside have rotted and died.  Walking back down the hill, in the far distance could be seen the snow capped Lefka Ori (White Mountains).

Following Easter celebrations and the departure of family members to their homes and work in Hania, the week has been mainly a quiet one … time spent here in the house with Anna and Katina, interspersed by the unexpected arrival from time to time of extended family members and friends, generating lively conversation and much laughter.  Such gatherings always lead to one thing – coffee, sweets, or more food and wine … what they have, they share – for sure it is an enviable lifestyle.  The state of the Nation will not move them from their traditional ways and the need to be hospitable.

Venturing out from the house, immediately one becomes aware of the intensity of the light here in Greece.  The sight of a yard full of Calendula Officinalis flowers, bright orange in the late morning sun … if only I could have picked all those flowers – what a wonderful, healing ointment they would have made, like I used to make before my time in Real Estate.  Springtime brings forth an abundance of wild flowers, wild herbs and edible plants too.  Yesterday for lunch we had a selection of these, including tiny asparagus shoots, as well as broad beans from the garden.  Anna and Katina enjoyed snails with their meal … I was quite happy to settle for plant matter, a glass of wine and the delicious crusty bread.

Late afternoon saw the arrival of Kostoula with her two beautiful daughters, Maria and Katerina, followed by Vanna and Roma who invited me for dinner.  A quiet affair compared with most Saturday evenings at their home … only family and of course, I am one of them.  Roma drove me back to the house early around 2300 hours.

It is late morning here … Johanna, Antoni and Rula have just arrived at the house – a possible lift later in the day back to Hania, otherwise another bus ride.  As Antonia cannot guarantee they will be at the house before 1900 hours, I will not be rushing to get back to Hania.  Tomorrow will be an early start, however, as my flight to Athens departs at 0825 hours … and I have just realized, it will be exactly two years since I left New Zealand to spend 6 months backpacking all over Greece – little did I know then where I would be now.

The last leg of my journey just hours away … then 6 weeks and two days to spend with Costas on Spetses – what more can I say!

Anna – Family Matriarch

Thursday, 12 April 2012 … out of bed at 0530 hours with many last minute chores still to complete before departing once again for Greece.  Picked up my mum, meeting Dave and Kayla at The Yellow House for coffee etc, then leaving home in a taxi to meet up once again at Wanganui Airport.  Luggage checked through all the way to Athens (a little scary – would I ever see my trolley case again) … sad farewells then airborne, on time at 1245 hours, bound for Auckland.  The usual catch up over a bottle of wine with my dear friend Vivienne, before boarding the A380-800 which would take me all the way to Dubai, via Sydney.   

On this first sector, the worst crew I have ever struck travelling with Emirates … no sense of urgency for anything and very poor service.  At drinks trolley time, I indicated I was waiting for a nice cup of tea.  At meal tray clearing time, I asked again “Would there be tea and coffee?”  The reply “If there is time”.  “Okay, if there is not could I please have a glass of water”.  Half an hour later I had to ask again for a glass of water.  

On such journeys, it is always interesting observing human behaviours.  I had conversed with Viv about who one might get in the adjoining seat … on this first leg it was a continually sniffing, occasional knuckle clicking male!  I also realised that Row 66 was much too close to a toilet (I won’t make the same mistake again).  As we touched down in Sydney, I remembered that I had forgotten one very important chore … I had not changed the messages on my answerphone at home, or on mobile, or at work!  All in all, it had not been a memorable sector … if I had been flying Emirates for the first time, I would not choose them again.   

Sitting in an airport, going nowhere, can be incredibly frustrating and needs much patience.  12 hours after leaving my home, we were still on the tarmac in Sydney.  Finally airborne, it would be 14 hours and 20 minutes flying time to Dubai … the secret to this length of journey – don’t worry, don’t stress, relax, relax, relax!  The two blokes sitting next to me were not a problem … with minimal conversation, I made myself as comfortable as I could and dozed as much as possible.  Once in  Dubai, a minor shopping spree then spent the last of my Dirham on a coffee to die for.  On the flight to Athens, I realised that although tired, under the circumstances, I was actually feeling pretty much okay and I had two seats to myself.  With mainly Greeks on board, I was feeling at home.   

Any apprehension I had felt about potentially not seeing my trolley case again proved to be unfounded … it was on the carousel for me to collect.  It would be a long 5 hour wait in Athens  on a cloudy, cool day.  At last, the 1900 hours departure for the short flight to Hania on Crete … a taxi to Antonia’s home, arriving 2030 hours (0530 hours Saturday NZ time – 48 hours from rising, 42 hours from leaving my home).  Being Good Friday in the Greek Orthodox calendar, Antonia was at church – Vassiles would let me in.  A Green Tea and into bed – I would catch up with Antonia in the morning.  Freshly squeezed orange juice at breakfast, the fruit from their own trees.  It had been raining overnight, the day was overcast but mild … I was feeling cold, however, and still very tired.  A day of rest, interrupted only to organise myself, partake of lunch and be re-introduced to the wonderful wine.  

At 2330 hours on Holy Saturday, Antonia and I, carrying unlit candles, walked on what was a very cold night to a church nearby for late night Mass and the celebration of the Anastisi (the Resurrection of Christ).  When the clock struck midnight, the priest announced “Christos Anesti” (Christ Has Risen) followed by all the worshipers lighting their candles from the church’s Holy Flame …   with church bells ringing and fireworks all around.  When we returned home, Antonia made a sign of the cross on the house threshold with the soot from the burning candle, to protect the home and it’s inhabitants during the coming year.  A feast meal with daughter Mary, son-in-law Vagilles and grandsons Constantinos and Vassiles was to follow – including the traditional soup Mayiritsa (containing lamb or goat intestines) … not for me!   

Easter Sunday morning , feeling human again at last, Antonia drove me to the newly refurbished Bus Station in time to catch the 1000 hours coach to Kastelli – not running today and therefore, a wait until 1100 hours, arriving in Kastelli at noon.  In Greece, Easter Sunday is a festive day, rejoicing with family and friends.  The traditional meal of roast lamb, symbolizing Jesus Christ, the Lamb of God, was already turning on the spit.  The meal was followed by the cracking of red dyed eggs, known as Tsougrisma.  Cracking our eggs against one another’s, whoever ends up with an unblemished egg is deemed the lucky one.  

Life here in my Cretan home, as always, is wonderful!

Costas and I - last night out in Delfinia

Following our return from Hydra last week, our time has been spent mostly in quiet solitude … with the fire burning, enjoying reading, the cats, watching movies, a little shopping, chores at the Bar and at home and some nights, venturing out for a few drinks.  It is difficult to realize that Thursday will herald the official beginning of Winter here … both days and nights have been relatively mild for the time of year – not a great deal of sunshine, however, only light winds and  no rain to speak of. 

Last evening being our final opportunity to dine out, I chose to go to Taverna Paxni (meaning a place where sheep only were kept during the winter).  Serving traditional Greek cuisine, our other option was Liotrivi, however, there they serve curries and European fare … I can have that anywhere in New Zealand and so, therefore, I wanted to eat food I cannot find at home.  Left the house to make the 15 minute walk up the hill … it is not a place tourists would find easily which is how we like it.  Located up a long concrete drive with vegetable gardens either side, it is indeed a gem.  The owner makes his own wine (white only) which is stored in large barrels inside the Taverna.  When the wine runs out, the season ends.  Superb atmosphere and food to die for … we ordered a salad which contained a mixture of greens and tomatoes, dressed with olive oil and lemon juice – Fava – toasted bread spread with olive oil, salt and herbs and naturally, a kilo of wine.  For mains Costas had the grilled chicken and I had grilled lamb cutlets, both served with delicious potatoes and rice.  The entire meal one of the best I have ever tasted – this place is truly a hidden secret. 

On leaving the Taverna, we walked on down to the Old Harbour and into the small Kafeneion where Costas goes on occasion during the winter months to keep company and play cards with a handful of his friends.  Typically a male domain where the conversation can be about food, football or politics and where each individual appears hell bent on having an opposing opinion to all the others.  

From the Kafeneion we made our way back to the Dapia (main town), finishing our night at Delfinia Bar, over a couple of drinks and listening to predominantly blues music.  Wherever one goes at this time of the year, it is very quiet … no tourists at all and with the current economic climate in Greece, most of the locals are forced to stay at home.  Along with Bar Spetsa, Balconi has also closed for now, however, Rendezvous, Delfinia, Destino and Mayo, among others, all stay open until the wee small hours, catering for the likes of The Greek and The Antipodean.      

Sadly, tomorrow I must begin the long journey back to New Zealand.  Tonight I will retire early … with the alarm set for 0500 hours as by 0615 hours, I will farewell Costas and Spetses before catching the early hydrofoil to Piraeus.  From the Port, a bus to Athens Airport and hours to kill until my Emirates flight to Dubai – departing 1550 hours.  Fortunately, for me, the next general strike is scheduled for the following day – Thursday.  With a 12 hour stopover in Dubai, I have a room at the Millenium-Airport Hotel (compliments of Emirates) which should allow me a sleep of maybe six hours or so … flying out of Dubai at 1010 hours on Thursday 1 December, bound for Auckland, via Melbourne.  Finally, an hour’s flight on a ‘pencil’ plane to Wanganui … all things being equal, I will be back there around 1625 hours on Friday 2 December where my Mum and son Dave will be awaiting me – I look forward to seeing them again.  The time frame for the journey – just a tad under 48 hours! 

Present thoughts are to return to Greece some time in April next year, perhaps in time to spend Easter once again (Greek Orthodox Easter Sunday 15 April) with my family on Crete, then move on to Spetses and Costas until around late May/early June.  Come October, I shall return again for a stay of similar duration as the one about to end now.  It is not easy creating a life in two countries on opposite sides of the world, however, it is how I believe it must be for now.  I feel very lucky and blessed with my current lifestyle.  As to the future – we will see how things pan out.

Harbour scene - Hydra Town

Saturday midday and yet again, blessed with glorious weather … bought ‘The Guardian’, enjoyed a coffee at Philippos then caught the Flying Dolphin XXIX at 1305 hours to Hydra, via Ermioni.  I spent time on Hydra last year, early in my travels, in fact, it was from Hydra that I travelled on to Spetses in early May … Costas had visited the island before, however, had never stayed over until this past weekend. 

A very tranquil and serene place with a total ban on motorized transport … when people or goods are unable to be moved on foot, then there are always the donkeys or the small hand carts to move things around.  We had made a booking at the Piteoussa Guest House, enjoying a walk there in brilliant sunshine, under a cloudless sky, to check in to our room on the 1st floor – with a balcony.  Yanni the owner was awaiting us  … full of information and recommendations of the best places to eat and drink and it was one of these places – Isalos Cafe in the harbour that we headed to for a late lunch of omelette’s and a couple of beers.  Time then for a casual stroll around the coastal road, to work off our lunch, on such a beautiful day.  It was late afternoon when we returned to the town to stop off at another of Yanni’s recommended places – Papagalos … a quiet drink before retiring for a late siesta. 

So far, so good … left our room rather late to find Ostria Taverna where we would have dinner.  A small, intimate and cosy wee place … quickly we learnt that it was to be their last night before closing and therefore, the menu was a little limited.  Ordered a Green Salad and Tzatziki to share, followed by fried Shrimps for Costas and Grilled Prawns for me, with the usual lovely crusty bread and white wine.  A table of eight or so were celebrating a birthday and so we finished with a piece of yummy birthday cake which they offered.  Now replete and of course with it being Saturday night, we headed back to Papagalos.  DJ, dancing and very loud music … almost too much for this mature couple!  Leaving there in the early hours, it was outside The Pirate Bar that we spoke to James, an English guy … together we went to a small cafe/bar in a side alley where we stayed until 0300 hours.  Needless to say, no complaints about our first night on Hydra. 

A late rising on Sunday as was to be expected then out once again to make the short walk to Isalos Cafe for a full English breakfast … more than we could eat.  Setting off this time in the other direction, to walk the coastal path … making the most of more photographic opportunities.  Our siesta later on somewhat interrupted, however, as there was a soccer game in progress near our accommodation and the Greeks certainly know how to make a din on such occasions.  The other restaurant recommended by Yanni was Annita Taverna … when we found it I quickly realised that I had stopped there for lunch one day last year – we would not be disappointed with the food we ordered.  Fava and Horta to begin followed by Fish Soup for me and Beef and Kritharaki in Red Sauce for Costas, bread and white wine.  Very generous servings and absolute tops in taste, just like you would expect to eat in some one’s home … we really enjoyed it.  Not wanting to subject ourselves again to loud music, we then went to Sinialo Cafe/Bar in the harbour.  A couple of quiet drinks, good conversation and back to our room before midnight, 

Today, surprise surprise, it was back to Isalos for brunch … Costas forced down another full English breakfast while I ordered a Club Sandwich and fries.  Taking our time whilst reading ‘The Observor’ … what I could not eat of the fries, I fed to two or three of the local moggies and I know they were most appreciative.  Actually, there could be more cats than human beings living on Hydra … at least, that is the feeling one gets.  Some are in very good condition while others are not and you cannot help but feel for them.  In particular, one we first saw on Saturday night … “our wee girl”.  White, tiny and with incredibly short legs – we both fell in love with her.  When we returned today to see her, among her companions was a big, darling old moggy I had befriended last year and it was so nice to see him again.  We enquired from a local shop owner as to whether or not “our wee girl” had an owner.  She replied “No, take her” and I can tell you we came very close to doing so.  However, the logistics of getting her back to Spetses on the hydrofoil and the ongoing task of blending her into the family and her ultimate acceptance by the existing four … I believe Costas probably made the right decision and we left her there. 

After an enjoyable walk up a path into the hills behind the town and returning for a shared cold beer at Isalos Cafe, we caught the 1440 hours hydrofoil for the 30 minute ride and return to Spetses and home.  It is evening now and rather cold outside but the fire burns … I have just nine days more and I know I must continue to enjoy every one of them.

Night out in Rendezvous - Spetses

There are days when I never leave the house … it is quiet and peaceful here and I always find something to do.  Last Friday, the day after returning home from our trip away, we were invited to Raymond and Heather’s for lunch at 1300 hours, along with six other friends.  The weather was beginning to change, however, with jackets on it was just warm enough to sit outside in their garden for our meal.   A delicious ham cooked in coca cola, haggis, neeps and tatties (mashed swede and yellow turnip, mashed potatoes) and veges – followed by Portokalopita (Orange Pie) bought from the cake shop in Dimitsana and Plum Pudding.  Moved indoors for the afternoon and drank shot after shot of various cocktails mixed by Raymond, leaving at 1930 hours to make the short downhill walk home … their last guest Irish Mike not leaving until around midnight.  Yet another great day!   

By Saturday, the weather had turned cold … that evening lighting our first fire for the season.  Sunday was even colder and wet, however, we made the effort to go out for a few drinks at Balcony … there being just three other patrons in the Bar.  Thought we would move on to Mayo … alas, it was closed, but not Bodgi on the Square – ended our night there in the company of half a dozen Greek youths, listening to the usual extremely loud Greek music.   

Monday was a busy day, what with tables and chairs to be moved from the house and put in storage at Bar Spetsa, awaiting next year’s summer season, plus many other chores.  At 1900 hours we met Raymond and Heather at Clock Restaurant for an early supper … then a walk in the rain to Rendezvous, where we were joined by Irish Mike and Yiorgos for a few drinks.  Our last night out with Raymond and Heather for a while … Tuesday they left the island to make the ten day journey through Europe back to Aberdeen for the winter.  We will miss their company as we always have good times together and a lot of fun.   

Tuesday and Wednesday saw the weather taking a turn for the better … fine and warm once again for this time of the year and an opportunity to get outdoors.  I have made an excellent start on cleaning up Costas’ garden and on Wednesday, he had three tonnes of firewood (olive) delivered and stacked for the winter.  Needless to say, there will be plenty of wonderful fires to look forward to … one of the niceties of cold days and nights.  Most evenings when staying in, we have been lucky enough to find a good movie to watch … “Welcome to the Rileys” and “Remember Me” being two of them.  I am also thoroughly enjoying reading “Birds Without Wings” by Louis de Bernieres, author of Captain Corelli’s Mandolin … look for it in your local library.  

Today it is Friday … we have been out to lunch at Spetsiotiko – now back in the house with the fire lit.  Tomorrow we will catch the 1305 hours hydrofoil to the nearby island of Hydra for a 48 hour break.  Needless to say, we are both looking forward to our time away … just the two of us.

Dimitsana - mountain village in the Peloponnese's

It is now almost three days since our return from holidays, however, with Internet woes, up until now I have been unable to write and post a Blog about our travels so I trust my memory will serve me well. 

Left the house around 0900 hours last Monday to meet Raymond and Heather for coffee at the harbour … we were catching the 1000 hours ferry to Kosta, from where we would set off in their black metallic Jaguar on our journey – travelling in real comfort and style.  First stop – the Cavernous Churches of Ayios Georgios – Metamorphosis, where you enter what is like a caldera through a cave and inside the caldera, are two little churches … an amazing place.  Our next stop would be for a late breakfast – hilltop location high above New Epidavros with spectacular views … a pity about the haze on an otherwise beautiful day for this time of the year. 

Our destination that day was to be the old city of Nafplio … the first capital of modern Greece, a seaport town in the Peloponnese’s, overlooked by the castle of Palamidi.  After finding a Parking lot down by the waterfront, we walked with our luggage to check in at the Ilion Hotel located on the hill just beyond Syntagma Square.  The former residence of a 19th Century Mayor, the hotel now filled with antique furniture from the owner’s personal collection.  A unique and quirky place … each room with a theme, painted in bold, warm colours with murals, paintings, prints, objets d’art, curios and collect-ables everywhere. 

That afternoon, looking out to Bourtzi Castle, we sat having drinks in the sun on the waterfront.  After an early evening siesta, we ventured out once more … this time to Alaloum Restaurant for dinner, where the portions were huge and the food delicious.  In the Chef’s Salad – of particular note, the tastiest of tomatoes … Grilled Mushrooms to die for … Soutzoukakia (spicy oblong meatballs in red sauce) and much more – we definitely over ordered, however, it was a meal to remember.  Then a walk to ‘O Lathos’ (Mistake) Bar which Costas had been to before … almost impossible to describe, full of junk and memorabilia collected I would imagine over many years by the rather sombre, stony faced owner/operator.  Many of the bits and bobs were somehow remotely controlled and would move at the press of a button … including a table which moved just as a patron was about to pick up their drink – unbelievable stuff!  I want to take my son Dave there one day – I know he would love it!  Finished our evening off at Allotino … my friend Doreen and I stayed in the Traditional Pension above in 2004. 

Tuesday morning, after a soak in our Jacuzzi, Costas and I had Room Service Breakfast on our balcony.  Delivered to the room on a trolley, everything from Rose Liqueur made by the hotel owner, orange juice, yummy bread, ham, cheese, hard boiled eggs, yogurt and honey, homemade preserves and coffee.  It was another beautiful day and following a walk around the old town, by midday we were once again on the road … through Argos and Tripoli and the mountains, heading for the small village of Dimitsana.  We had made a booking at the Koustenis Village Resort … an assortment of stone buildings, our rooms were side-by-side, upstairs, fireplaces and with balconies overlooking the Lousios Gorge.  A little further out from Dimitsana than we had expected, however, the family owners were more than happy to drive us to the village … we would walk back in the early hours. 

That first afternoon, our first lift up to the beautiful traditional village of Dimitsana … with its stone built houses and at an altitude of 1000 metres.  We walked around the cobble-stoned streets taking photographs and the other three (not for me) climbed up the spiral staircase of the Bell Tower for even greater views.  A delicious lunch at ‘Sto Kioupi’ Restaurant followed by drinks at the only place we could find … a cake shop come cafe (both with fireplaces) then a ride back to our hotel for an early evening siesta.  That evening we returned to ‘Sto Kioupi’ for dinner, back to the cake shop for a drink or two and discovered their Portokalopita (Orange Pie) which was simply out of this world!  The light of the moon helped us find our way home, laughing or singing for most of the way. 

Wednesday dawned … we could not believe our luck – yet again, gloriously sunny and warm weather.  After breakfast we checked out the family’s animal ‘zoo’ and the nearby Open-Air Water Power Museum.  In the 18th Century, Dimitsana was a commercial centre and it flourished during the years, up to and including the Greek War of Independence in 1821.  It’s position on the Lousios Gorge meant that water was available to power mills that were involved in the production of flour, animal skins, metal works and most importantly, gunpowder, without which the Greek freedom fighters would have been doing a lot less.  

Back to the hotel and into the Jaguar for a tiki tour, stopping first at the village of Paliohora where we saw a Lotus Tree.  Continuing down into the Lousios Gorge along a winding road, the autumn colours were stunning … across the Lousios River and up the other side, on to the Monastery of Panagia Tou Filosophou.  After a while, a monk came out to greet us, inviting us into the reception area for a drink of water and loukoumi (Turkish delight) sweet.  Unfortunately, he had a pronounced speech impediment and as he spoke to us in his very best English about the history of the Monastery, I had an uncontrollable fit of the giggles.  I could not stop … Costas was telling me to go outside, however, I thought that would be even more insulting – I was so embarrassed!  The Lousios Gorge hides a number of secluded monasteries along it’s walls … they became centres of resistance and education during the years up to the Greek War of Independence.  After travelling down, up and around the mountains, we eventually arrived back in Dimitsana for a light lunch, back to the hotel for a siesta followed by a repeat of the evening before … ride up to the village, dinner at ‘Sto Kioupi’, drinkies at the cake shop and a walk home – singing and laughing along the way. 

Thursday morning following breakfast (another amazing day – 32 degrees at 1100 hours) we set off via an alternative route heading back to Spetses.  While the car was being washed and cleaned, we had lunch in Porto Heli, drove the short distance to Kosta, caught a sea taxi at 1630 hours and back to the island.  A great time was had by us all … yet more wonderful memories I will have forever!

Surprised Birthday Girl after blowing out the candles

Saturday, 5 November – My Birthday!  The day spent quietly at home … the evening was to be otherwise.  Late morning and Costas was off on foot to the Vets with two of the four cats – Larissa and Sydney in the cage, due for their annual shots.  When he returned for the other two, Oliver was nowhere to be found.  So, second trip with Bob alone then a third time with Oliver.

During our late afternoon siesta came a knock at the gate … the florist delivering a beautiful bouquet of flowers for me from Raymond and Heather.  What a lovely, lovely surprise!

By 1930 hours we were ready to walk to Nektarios’ Taverna in the Old Harbour … everyone else in our party travelling there by motorbike or scooter.  Eighteen of us in all … the Greek, the Antipodean and sixteen others from England, Wales, Ireland and Scotland.  A couple of drinks then coats on to go outside and watch the fireworks display – unbelievable!  Back inside to the warmth and a spread of wonderful, simple Greek fare was very soon to be on the table.

Around 2200 hours, Costas asked how to use my camera.  I had no idea what was going on.  Then, out from the kitchen came my Birthday Cake alight with candles … I was quite simply, blown away.  Everyone sang Happy Birthday to me, I blew the candles out in one breath, then we all devoured a piece, it was wonderful.

Next stop, Liotrivi nearby … Costas and I, Raymond and Heather, Penny, Anna and Marilyn.  Still the night was not over … Costas and I walked back to the area of Dapia to meet Raymond and Heather in our favourite watering hole – Balkoni Bar.  We would finally be home around 0300 hours … what a memorable birthday!

Property belonging to the Embiricos family - Spetses

Freedom, Time – for now we are enjoying life without the pressure of opening Bar Spetsa every night at 2000 hours.    

Monday evening we stayed at home.  Watched the movie “You Will Meet A Tall Dark Stranger” starring Anthony Hopkins … brilliant!  Tuesday evening, after a drink in the Dapia near where we live, a pleasant walk to the Old Harbour to meet Raymond and Heather with Yogan and Kimberley…  married in Scotland 10 days’ earlier, Raymond had given Kimberley away.  Dinner at Nektarios’ Taverna – Nychthimeron (Night and Day) … a very traditional Greek restaurant by the sea.  Ordered an array of dishes in which we all shared and a couple of litres of white wine – it was lovely.  Saturday will be my birthday … we are to return to Nektarios’ for dinner and I understand a table has been booked for 20 people.  Being Guy Fawkes, fireworks are also on the menu – I will write more on this in a later blog.   

After dinner Costas and I, together with Yogan and Kimberley walked back to the Dapia area of town, whilst Raymond and Heather used their usual mode of transport – a motorbike, all meeting up at Balkoni Bar.  I have come to expect all such occasions will be memorable ones and this was no exception … joined in the early hours by Takis and the bar owner/operator Panayiotis, these two and Costas entertaining us as they sang along to Greek songs from their youth.   

Thursday I decided it was about time that I went for a decent walk and so headed off around 1300 hours, out of town and up into the hills along a mostly uneven road.  In New Zealand we pay good money for a cyclamen in a pot to decorate our homes … here in the hills they are growing wild, mainly under pine trees.  When you arrive at a crossroads on the top of the ridge, you come to Kafenethaki (little Kafeneion).  Freshly painted in green and white, it appears never to be open, however, I have learnt from Costas, there are those (such as hunters) who know where to locate the keys.  Once inside they find a small gas burner, briki (the pot used to make Greek coffee), water, coffee and sugar and so can then enjoy a small cup of their favourite brew.   

Taking the fork in the road to the right, I eventually arrived at Profitis Ilias, the highest point on Spetses at 285m … from here the views are spectacular.  (Refer to a photograph published late on my Blog Title “Together Again” – an image of a three legged table outside the small church – I love this one).  The photograph used on this Blog is of a property belonging to the Embiricos family, a well known name in Greek shipping.  I arrived back at the house two hours later (1500 hours), just in time for a full homemade breakfast of eggs, bacon, sausages, onions and tomatoes.  The evening saw us back at Mayo for a few quiet drinks, the only ones sitting out on the veranda which, of course, is closed in at this time of the year with clear plastic blinds, still allowing for a view of the waves crashing in on the jetty nearby.   

Friday, a relaxed lunch at Spetsiotiko … Horta (wild greens), Kalamari, Patates Tiganetes (french fries), a shared Amstel and crusty bread.  Around 1515 hours we walked up to Raymond and Heather’s house – on Monday we four will set off for a break away … first night in Nafplio, followed by two nights in the mountain village of Dimitsana, both on the mainland of Peloponnese’s.  The purpose of our getting together was to decide on and book our accommodation.  Both hotels chosen look amazing … I will write about our journey later in the week, probably not until returning to Spetses.

Helen and Costas - Closing Night Party - Bar Spetsa

Friday dawned with the kind of weather most would expect to find on a Greek island … mild, a light breeze, blue sky and plenty of sunshine.  A Public Holiday for “Ochi Day” which is celebrated every year in Greece on 28 October  to commemorate Greek Prime Minister Ioannes Metaxas’ rejection of the ultimatum made by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini on 28 October 1940.  I did not venture out, however, until 1400 hours, to meet Costas at Bouboulina Fish Restaurant for lunch.  Bar Spetsa closed at 0230 hours in the morning, we walked up a very quiet main street to the Square.  Wow, full of motorbikes and scooters belonging to the younger fraternity … all the riders packed into a very noisy, bustling Bodgi Music Bar where a hens party and a stag party were in progress.  We two oldies joined them for a couple of drinks, watching as they danced to full volume Greek music – my ears were ringing, however, it was a very enjoyable interlude.   

Saturday night saw the Closing Night Party for the season at Bar Spetsa … this year the theme being Christmas!  Raymond and Heather returned to Spetses last week from a brief stay in Scotland, bringing with them a suitcase full of goodies for the Party.  Christmas Mince Pies, Chocolate Santa’s, Sainsbury Nuts and Shortbread, along with an array of Christmas decorations and Christmas Crackers.  Even a Santa Suit for the owner/operator, however, it was left to hang on the wall.  Balloons had been ordered on the island … Bar Spetsa looked amazing!  The music more Rock and Roll than on other nights of the year and as is the custom, drinks were all on the house for regular patrons.  There were no problems at all … everyone having a wonderful time.  For us, home and happy at around 0445 hours.   

When Costas returned to the house Sunday night from Socrates Bar where he had gone to meet friends to watch his team Tottenham play on the tele, we were able for the first time ever to go out together for an evening meal … no Bar to open at 2000 hours, instead relaxation and quality time to spend together.  At the “Clock” Restaurant in the Square, we ordered and enjoyed a Chef’s Salad, two Chili Burgers and a half litre of white wine.  Then on to Roussos for a drink or two by the sea, a short distance down the road to Mayo for another one or two, then back home by midnight to watch a movie.   

Today, Monday, a couple of hours at the Bar sorting records and files … tonight will be spent quietly at home.  Another four weeks or so of this lifestyle … it is going to be hard leaving.

Three legged table outside Profitis Ilias - Spetses

Sunday – a quiet day and my last in Kastelli for this trip.  All packed and ready to catch the 1730 hours bus to Hania … fortunately, I telephoned my friend Antonia and learnt they were in Kastelli for the day so a ride home with them around 1800 hours.  As always, very sad farewells with the family … would I be coming back?  No, not this trip.

After speaking with Costas, an early night for me – up at 0630 hours yesterday to make ready for my departure to Athens and on to Spetses.  We had given some thought and discussion as to whether or not the hydrofoils would be running on Monday, what with the strikes here in Greece, however, the general concensus was that it would be okay and I gave it no more thought.  Antonia delivered me to the bus station around 0800 hours, arriving at the airport in Hania in good time for my 0935 hours Olympic Airways flight to Athens.  Seated in 4B between two businessmen dressed in suits, the flight was a pleasant one.  Read the airline magazine, served a large chocolate chip cookie with a drink and in no time, we touched down at Athens Airport.

A long wait for our luggage to come through then walked outside and purchased my ticket for the bus ride to the Port of Piraeus.  Then, Costas telephoned with the news … NO hydrofoils operating!  I should check to see if the trains were running to Corinth, which they were.  Arrived in Corinth around 1300 hours.  Took a taxi to the bus station.  Next bus to Kranidi not until 1720 hours.  Too late then for the last bus to Kosta on the mainland where I could take a water taxi to the island.  So, no alternative but to take a long taxi ride from Corinth to Kosta.  One and a half hours duration, however, along a very scenic mainly oceanside road.  I could pay by the clock or the driver would accept a flat rate of 100 Euro … I chose the latter.  Telephoned Costas when I saw a sign 14 kilometres from Kosta.  He came across from the island, arriving in Kosta within a minute of each other … wonderful to see him.  By 1530 hours we were both back home on Spetses.

Went out last night to Bar Spetsa … very quiet everywhere, the tourists have all but gone now that summer is over.  A few familiar faces in the bar and it did not feel like I had ever been away from here … now with five weeks ahead when I do not have to move on anywhere – what a great feeling.  I have had enough of travel and strikes for a while.  Today we went out for lunch at Spetsiotiko – a bowl of Fasolada (bean soup) each, followed by half a kilo of babounakia (small red mullet) – possibly my favourite fish.  A shared beer and the usual crusty bread – yummy!  This afternoon, tiredness consumed me and so I have stayed at home tonight.  Costas was to telephone me if our friends Raymond and Heather turned up at the bar and I would get ready and go down.  It is just past midnight, I have not heard from him so it looks like I will be stopping in with the four cats keeping me company.

Only another four nights then Bar Spetsa will close for the season.  From next week we can choose to eat out in the evening like normal people here, go for walks during the day or whatever.  Five weeks to enjoy a real holiday – it is going to be like heaven!