Itisallgreek2me

Back In Our Garden after lunch at Roussos

With very little time remaining, we have managed to make the last few days memorable, just as every day has been since my arrival back in Spetses six weeks’ ago.  I had hoped to make one more long walk last Friday … alas, I did not manage to gather enough motivation, instead sunbathing at home then cooked yet another yummy full English breakfast for the ‘boyfriend’ and I.  This year, three new businesses have opened on Spetses selling Greek Frozen Yogurt … Costas came home with a pottle – it is so delicious!  Early evening I thought it was time I began my shopping for a few bits and pieces to take back to New Zealand then off to the Bar around 2200 hours.  Saw Ray and Heather and Ian … he is from London and visits Spetses regularly for 10-12 days at a time.  We first met in 2010 on a day when the sea was so rough, we could not embark from the hydrofoil, were taken back to the mainland and shared a taxi to Kosta and a water taxi over to the island.   

On Saturday – sun, shower, then off to meet Costas at Filippos for coffee.  Returned home for our siesta until we were hungry … ordered takeaways from ‘Clock’ – two chili burgers with chips and a Chef’s Salad.  Realising that night would be a late one, did not go to the Bar until midnight, spending time with Ray and Heather then later with Helen from Athens (we first met a few weeks’ ago) and David from Norfolk in the UK.  David works as a gardener, however, currently he is living his dream, just as I did two years’ ago when I journeyed all over Greece for six months – totally free.  However, David is into his third month of a three month journey which saw him begin in Kathmandu, on to other places then Istanbul and now Greece.  It was the music which drew him into Bar Spetsa and he was back again last night for more … David is a fan of The Rolling Stones and as I recall, he has been to no less than eight live Stones concerts. 

Yesterday – sun, shower, then off to meet Costas at Spetsiotiko for lunch.  In the evening, waited at home for a telephone call from my Mum then yes, you guessed it, off once again to Bar Spetsa.  Ray and Heather were there with Christos from Paradise who was celebrating his birthday.  Helen too and David and Patrick – an actor from Detroit, Michigan … we had so much fun and shared laughter – one of the best nights ever in the Bar, coming home just as the sun was rising!  Although the Bar was not as busy as last year – almost certainly due to Greece’s current dire situation and the impending elections, it was busy and a whole lot of fun.  

Today – up too late for sunbathing, however, shower, then off to meet Ray and Heather at Roussos for lunch … such a busy social schedule which does not look like easing up but tonight I will stay at home.  Tomorrow there will be last minute shopping to do and the dreaded packing.  I will go into Bar Spetsa early for one last time this visit then home by midnight as on Wednesday I must leave Costas and the island on the 1045 hours hydrofoil bound for Piraeus.  A bus or taxi if I must to Athens Airport, at 1640 hours my flight will leave for Dubai.  A hotel room there, compliments of Emirates, departing the next day for Wanganui, via Sydney and Auckland.  I am in a state of disbelief that I must once again leave Costas and my island home.  Naturally, I am very much looking forward to seeing family and friends, however, the thought of returning to work and grey winter skies is a little daunting.  Never mind, I have my goal and aim to be back in Greece sometime in October for another two months’ stay … my life in two countries on opposite sides of the world will continue.

Birds Eye view of Spetses

I began the week on Monday with another of my lovely long walks … leaving the house around 0830 hours and once again heading up the mountain.  Helped along by a refreshing breeze, the aroma of the pines, wild thyme and other scented herbs … with only the occasional bike coasting down (no need to run the motor going in that direction) to interrupt my peaceful state of mind.  Admiring the magnificent properties on the way, however, given a choice, I would pick the little old house with its rambling garden … fruit trees – potatoes, corn, courgettes, aubergines, beans, tomatoes and much more and with stunning views over the town and the Peloponnese’s in the distance, separated by the bluest of seas. 

On reaching the top, had my first stop to partake of a little of my Spanakopita and a drink of juice, then on to Profitis Ilias … I was 5km of the way.  Carried on along the ridge, blown away by the panoramic views to both sides of the island, then the long and winding road down, coming out just a little short of Vrellos.  My plan was to find a quiet beach on which to relax for a couple of hours … I found one between Vrellos and Ligoneri – not easy to access, however, that added to it’s appeal.  Braved a quick dip before setting off on the final 4km … back home at 1345 hours.  Costas had bought our first Peponi (sweet melon) of the season … the cool, sweet taste was just what I needed.  I left him making Briam (oven roasted vegetables) and I went off to bed for a siesta and to rest my aching feet and legs.  That evening went to the Bar at 2300 hours … at 0200 hours it looked promising for an early night – alas, late arrivals meant it became another 5.00am’er! 

On Tuesday, once again we had the two Doctors – Dimitris and Yanni, here for lunch … a lettuce, tomato and cucumber salad with Briam to start, Spaghetti Bolognaise then fresh fruits to finish.  When the shops re-opened for their evening trading, I went to search for a new bikini … back home in half an hour with a gorgeous bright red one – I never expected it would be that easy to find.  Off to the Bar once again around 2300 hours … kept company with Ray and Heather, Gerald and Sophie – when they left, met some guys off a boat – the Bar closed early at 0145 hours … an opportunity for us to go to Balkoni for a few quiet drinks – home around 4.00am’ish.  Last night, back in Bar Spetsa at 2230 hours, however, home by 0200 hours as today the plan was to go out with Ray and Heather on their boat.  Alas, the boat trip was postponed, as two friends of ours have split and Ray and Heather are dealing with the fall out.  However, they will definitely try to make it happen before I leave next Wednesday. 

So, Costas and I had a very enjoyable lunch out today at Bouboulina … Marouli (lettuce) Salad, Yemista (stuffed tomatoes) and our favourite fish Barbounakia (small red mullet) – delicious!  Tonight I will stay in as I hope to have one more long walk tomorrow, then this weekend should be a very busy one in Bar Spetsa.  With Sunday being 50 days after Easter, everyone will be celebrating the Pentecost … I want to be at the Bar, Friday, Saturday and Sunday nights, to join in the fun, especially as now I have just a very few precious days to go before I must leave my Greek and this wonderful island home.

Fare-welling Ken & Anita in Bar Spetsa

With the departure last Friday of Ken and Anita, returning to the UK after 10 years of living in Spetses and my impending return to New Zealand in 10 days’ time, this seemed to be an appropriate Title – “Nothing Lasts Forever”.

In contrast to Wednesday night when I did not arrive at the Bar until 0100 hours, Thursday evening I was there early, together with a number of other friends, to farewell Ken and Anita … a sad and tearful affair after which we drank a toast to them both.  Ken’s daughter Sarah and son-in-law Rob had arrived earlier in the week having travelled overland, delivering the much needed van which would take Ken and Anita, their three moggies and much of their belongings on a 5 night, 6 day adventure journey through Europe.  Had a text from them today … so far, so good – they have made it to France.

Yesterday saw me rise early … left the house at 0750 hours to walk to Anargyri on the other side of the island.  First haul up the mountain … it was a very calm day with not a cloud in the sky, when I reached the ridge, I decided to take the old road going straight down to the other side, meeting up with the asphalt road and right turn onwards to Anargyri, arriving at the beach at 0935 hours.  Spent a couple of hours just lazing in the sun … apart from the arrival of a fishing boat, no one else was around.  Enjoyed a Spanakopita (spinach pie) which I had bought at the bakery before leaving town.  Thought I would brave the ocean – alas, I had thought about it for too long and managed only a paddle. 

Time to begin my return journey … I would take the path Paddy and Wendy had told me about, from Anargyri to Profitis Ilias, the highest point on the island and yes, I needed a stick too – waving it up and down in front of me, doing my best to avoid all the spiders and their webs stretched across the path.  But the most spectacular, panoramic views made it all worthwhile and I was back at the house by 1315 hours feeling very pleased with myself … mentally and physically healthier for having done it.  Saw an amazingly large bright green lizard … unfortunately, he was camera shy.  There have been endless sightings of snakes too on the island recently … I saw none, but then perhaps that was a good thing.

After a well earned siesta, it was off to Bar Spetsa early in the evening … with the Eurovision Song Contest (the Greeks love it) screening live on TV last night, Costas thought things might be rather quiet for a Saturday night and so I would be there to keep him company.  Actually, it turned out to be rather busy but then Debbie finished work early and sat down to have a drink with me, Ray and Heather arrived and when Costas closed, we all went off to a new bar which opened last evening – another late night. 

It has been something of an interesting week in Bar Spetsa … a billionaire; Sophie Barker – a singer from London who has just completed a tour of the US; met again Antonis – top dog at the Grand Posedonion Hotel; Caroline – an artist whom I had not seen since 2010; Costas introduced me to Arthur – a chef and kiwi born and bred in Wellington, he has not been in New Zealand for 20 years, speaks fluent Greek and our friend Chris – she is back following just one month’s teaching in Libya, the kids were uncontrollable and she simply had enough.

Tomorrow I am hoping to take another long walk … up the mountain, right along the ridge, past Profitis Ilias and on to Vrellos where I will look for a quiet beach on which to spend a couple of hours, returning to Spetses town via Ligoneri.  With only 10 days remaining now, I must make the most of every precious day.

Costas and I at Ray’s 40 12th Birthday BBQ Party

Socialising and sun … it is true, you cannot have too much of a good thing!  For me, it is fine – I am not working … for Costas, it is not so easy, with the Bar to run every night and a run on social engagements.  I have nothing to worry about … most days soaking up the sun for an hour and a half, happily doing a few chores around the house and yes, socialising!

Friday we had lunch out with Ray and Heather at Filippos … the one and only day when the weather blotted it’s copy book – cool, overcast and a pathetic attempt to rain.  That evening I was in the Bar by 2100 hours, staying until closing at 0400 hours … the two of us then heading for Boggi, where the music is always Greek and deafeningly loud.  The young Greeks dance and sing … as always, I really enjoyed our time there.

After such a late night/early morning, there was a need on Saturday to rest and relax a little … Costas brought home takeaways from the Square – Bakalaros (deep fried cod) with Skordalia (garlic dip), fries and warm beetroot salad.  A meal I always relish.  Again, that night in the Bar … kept company with John and Julie, Ken and Anita – home at the more sensible hour of 0100 hours.

Sunday, the weather was glorious … sunbathed, then by 0200 hours we had arrived at Ray and Heather’s where, together with many friends (mostly ex-pats) we celebrated Ray’s 40 12th (52nd) birthday with an impressive BBQ lunch.  Costas, of course, left very early … I left around 2030 hours, also early but by that time, with almost everyone present having downed countless shots of various cocktails, the party was indeed in full swing. I went on to visit Costas in the Bar, spent time with Paddy and Wendy, John and Julie, coming home to sleep around 2300 hours. 

Monday, 21 May, was Costas’ Name Day – mine too.  Met up with Ken and Anita for lunch at To Nero Tis Agapis (The Water of Love), a well appointed seaside Restaurant.  Ken and Anita have had the privilege of living and working on Spetses for 10 years, however, with work now not being so easy to come by, they have made a decision to return and live in the UK and will leave on Friday.  All very sad really, however, they will have so many wonderful memories to take with them which no one can take away.  Since Sunday I had had a bit of a tummy upset and feeling a little nauseous, stayed away from the Bar that evening, unfortunately missing out on seeing Paddy and Wendy for the last time as they flew home yesterday.  However, Paddy is a GP and when Costas told him about my unwellness, Costas raced home briefly to bring me some tablets which worked a treat and I made a speedy recovery (alas, I missed out though on celebrating my Name Day).

You could say though that I made up for it last evening … in the Bar early, home around 0130 hours for a long chat with my sister on the telephone, then back to Bar Spetsa to have a drink with Costas, staying until closing time.  With just 2 weeks remaining until I must commence my long journey back downunder, I intend to continue enjoying and making the most of every precious moment in time.

Agia Paraskevi Beach – Spetses

Yesterday, 16 May 2012, my desire since first visiting the island of Spetses – to walk the 26 kilometres around the island, became a reality.  Retiring early the previous night, I was out of bed and away just before 0700 hours, unfortunately, having missed the sunrise about 0620 hours but never mind.  Heading east past the Old Harbour and Agia Marina Beach – on to Kouzinos.  The day could not have been more ideal … with a sunny, cloudless, brilliant blue sky, perfect for taking photographs, my only concern was that it would become very hot before I completed the circuit. 

The sound of silence – yes, interrupted from time to time by the sound of a lizard scurrying into the under growth from it’s roadside sunbathing position.  The colours of the sea … from turquoise through to aquamarine blue, contrasting with the green of the pines – it was so good to see the reforestation after decimation by fires of so many of the island’s pine trees.  

Points of interest along the way … Spetsopoula Island off the coast from Kouzinos – privately owned by the Greek tycoon Stavros Niarchos.  A little further on, two fabulous properties side by side … the one complete with helicopter pad belonging, I understand, to the owner of Folli Follie Group, a Greek based international company which designs, manufactures and distributes jewellery, watches and fashion accessories.  Nearby, another house which I am told was depicted on the cover of some editions of John Fowles book “The Magus”.  However, apparently the actual house is cube shaped with a flat roof and overlooks Agia Paraskevi but this I cannot confirm. 

Xilokeriza Beach – very impressive with it’s beauty … there is a path down the hill which I did not take, staying on the main road and on to Anargyri, from where I telephoned our friends Ken and Anita at 0930 hours.  Anargyri is roughly halfway, I had done well to make it thus far in two and a half hours.  Ken gave me directions to the dirt road up the hill to the house they live in but sadly, will be leaving soon to return to the U.K.   After 10 wonderful years on the island, the decision has been made … there simply is not enough work here for them now to stay, but for sure, they will have many precious memories and will return for holidays. 

From Anargyri, the road leads on to Agia Paraskevi, considered by some to be the most beautiful beach on the island.  There is a quaint wee church there amongst the trees and I sat nearby on the jetty, with my feet in the cool waters, partaking of pizza and a banana, taking in the beauty of my surroundings.  Then, time to move on as the day became hotter – past the splendid Korbi Bay … the silence interrupted by the call of a bird.  My ears and eyes followed the sound to a pair of Rock Partridges nesting on the bank roadside.  I took a photograph, slowly moving closer in for another and even closer until eventually, alas, I frightened them away … undoubtedly, a highlight of my day. 

With no shade and very little breeze now, the kilometres slowly ticked over, past Zogeria, Vrellos and on to Ligoneri by which time I could stand the heat no longer and just knew I had to brave the cold and take a dip in the wonderful blue sea I had been admiring all day … ouch, as expected, it was somewhat cold, however, it certainly refreshed me.  Back on the road and a walk around the little church of Panaghia Elena, then onwards, eventually reaching Kaiki Beach on the outskirts of town and home by 1440 hours … feeling very pleased with myself that I had done it and what is more, it had been a wonderful day. 

After a long, well earned siesta, made it into Bar Spetsa in the evening.  Ken and Anita were there … I came home around 0200 hours.  This afternoon saw a change in the weather to overcast skies and quite windy – it would not have been an ideal day for my walk around the island.  We met Nikos, a friend of Costas’ for lunch at Spetsiotiko – delicious fresh fish, fries, vleeta (garden greens) and a salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onions and olives … as always, I thoroughly enjoyed.  Tonight I am more than happy to spend a quiet one at home.

Dinner with Wendy and Paddy at Paxni

Apart from the occasional morning when I have stayed until closing in the Bar, my days begin with a lovely walk of at least an hour’s duration.  Staying clear of motorbikes and scooters until I reach the outskirts of the town … they are treacherous and perhaps the only negative here in what is an otherwise peaceful environment.  With the weather continuing to oblige, an hour of sunbathing is also achievable most days, then it is time to think about food.  

A Greek meal would not be complete without the wonderful crusty bread … my first port of call in the mornings takes me to the local bakery to buy a loaf called Carvelaki which costs just 80 cents.  I have become very adept at making a full English breakfast which for me, when we have it, becomes the main meal of my day.  Costas had invited Dimitris and Yanni, the two young doctors on the island, for lunch on Friday, however, it was postponed until Saturday … the Beef Burgers were a joint effort, I made my special Roast Potatoes (cooked in oil, lemon juice, mustard, garlic, rosemary, salt and pepper) and Costas made a lettuce, spring onion and cherry tomato salad dressed with balsamic vinegar.  With the bread and an excellent white wine, it was very well received.  Yesterday we ate out at Bouboulina’s – primarily a fish and seafood establishment, I chose Moussaka … made with slices of potatoes, aubergine and courgette, it was possibly the best Moussaka I have ever eaten – absolutely yummy!  Tomorrow we will have my tomato, onion and basil (freshly picked from our garden) soup. 

Thursday was a big day.  Caught the 1000 hours boat Katerina Star to Kosta on the mainland in the company of Ray, Heather and Tony.  Picked up Ray’s car, the black metallic Jaguar (one of only 50 ever made – 25 black, 25 white) and headed off to Ermioni and the weekly street market.  Bought wonderfully fresh and very cheap produce there, a few other stops including Lidl’s to buy Costas favourite German sausages,  then on to Taverna Maistraki by the sea for lunch where we stayed all afternoon.  A shared lunch of Garden Salad, Fries, Saganaki (fried cheese), Maistraki special chicken with caramelised onions, Keftethakia (meat balls) and grilled stuffed squid.  1700 hours boat back to Spetses.  At 2000 hours I met my Irish friends Paddy and Wendy at Bar Spetsa … they had invited me to join them for dinner at Paxni.  Unbeknown to me, it was Wendy’s birthday and they wanted me to share the occasion with them.  Took a takeaway back for Costas … when Bar Spetsa closed, we went on to Balkoni for a drink before heading home … what a fabulous day! 

During daylight hours, Costas always has plenty of chores to do, needing to be sure everything is ready for opening the Bar in the evening.  In the garden we have stacked the first half of an order of 1200 glasses needed for the coming season … by summer’s end most will be gone, not broken but rather they ‘walk’ – to other bars, the beach and wherever.  I have again been busy with the Bosch electric lemon squeezer.  With another 18 litres in the freezer, as I said to Costas, it has to be one of the best investments he ever made (I suggested the Antipodean could be another). 

I have finished reading a book I bought on Crete – ‘Fly Me To The Moon’ by Juliet Green who lives in Crete.  Now I need to choose another from Costas’ extensive library.  Occasionally he will buy a copy of The Guardian but mostly I keep up with the news online, including the English edition of a Greek newspaper Ekathimerini.  Recent items of interest have included the fact that Greece is at risk of finding itself isolated in terms of air connections as airline carriers strike the country off their itineraries.  Hotels are slashing their prices in a bid to attract more visitors.  On the island of Mykonos, authorities will soon begin planning the demolition of illegally built homes, following the use of satellite photographs to identify properties constructed in violation of building regulations.  With such difficult times, the Greek people had something to celebrate yesterday when their basketball team Olympiakos, the underdogs, upset a Russian team in the Basketball Euroleague final to be crowned European champions.  I was at home but could clearly hear the cheering around the town as the game was avidly watched on television. 

It is now coming up to 2200 hours – time for me to get ready and head off to Bar Septsa.  Cheers!

May Day Flowers on doorway – Spetses

An entire week since last I posted a Blog … some of you will be suffering withdrawal for which I apologise.  Having so much fun, the days and nights come and go very quickly.   

Last Tuesday – May Day –  a public holiday in Greece for workers.  Families make wreaths of flowers to hang on their doorways whist in strong contrast, others protest and hold strikes.   

Wednesday was the 2nd Anniversary for Costas and I … went out at 1330 hours to Filippos for an English breakfast – yummy – yet another glorious day and a very pleasant outing.  In the evening I went early to the Bar.  Costas’ team Tottenham were playing and John and Jerry were making regular telephone calls to update him.  It was one of those nights when I stayed until closing.  A late night not conducive to an early morning walk … never mind, I go out whenever I can and hope one day this week to walk the 26 kilometres around the island if there is a day which is not going to be too hot, however, with some sun to assist with photographic opportunities.  Saturday’s walk took me by Blueberry Hill … long since abandoned, it was once an open air disco where people danced under the stars.  On Thursday I may go with Ray and Heather on the boat over to the mainland … a chance to give their car a run, visit the market and so on.   

Lemon trees are a very common sight here in the island homes’ gardens …Costas needs around 100 litres of juice to see him through the summer months in the Bar and at this time of the year, people bring him bags of lemons to squeeze and freeze in 500ml plastic water bottles.  On Thursday I made 9 litres, today another 6 litres … I quite enjoy the task, productive but non stressful.      

Friday we met Ray and Heather at Bouboulina Restaurant for lunch at 1500 hours.  Costas had asked the cook to make Beef Stroganoff for us … we started with a selection of salads, followed by what was an enjoyable main meal, however, it was not a traditional Beef Stroganoff.  Furthermore, one of our salads was Agria Horta (wild greens) and Costas asked for another portion to take home.  After discovering the next day that we had not been given Agria Horta, he went back to voice his disappointment on two counts.    

It has been a full on weekend … Friday, Ray, Heather and I went from Bouboulina to Mayo for a few drinks, then on to Bar Spetsa where I was delighted to see Paddy and Wendy.  We met during my first week on the island in May 2010 and until now, our visits to Spetses have not coincided.  On Saturday I decided to go early to the Bar as I enjoy the opportunity to sit and chat with Costas until it gets busy and did it ever get busy!  He was working alone and the Bar was pumping … he unwound after closing at 0230 hours when we enjoyed a few drinks with Roland and Eleni at Balkoni Bar until 0500 hours in the morning.   

Of course, yesterday saw the Greek elections and as predicted, the two big parties who have dominated politics for decades,  took huge cuts in the vote counting … now Greece faces an even greater uncertainty for the future.  It is not clear who is going to govern the country and the people have made it clear they do not want anymore cuts.  The Neo Nazi party Golden Dawn received 7% of the vote … where will all this lead?  No one knows.  We were to meet Ray and Heather for lunch at Paradise … I set off in the heat of the day to walk there and got lost trying to take a shortcut, the little streets being something of a maze.  Ray had been dispatched on the bike to look for me, coming all the way to the house but to no avail – silly me.  A pleasant lunch after which Costas left to return home and watch Tottenham on the tele … we three stayed on, finally leaving on the bike at 2200 hours and on to Bar Spetsa – home shortly after.  During the afternoon, Debbie, Michelle and Panayiotis were in our company.  But, best of all was the moon rising as yesterday it was the closest and largest full moon of this year.  In short, the earth, moon and sun all in a line with the moon in it’s nearest approach to earth … amazing!   

Today, as with every day, I sunbathed for an hour around midday, my tan coming along very nicely thank you.  Looking up into the bluest of skies, watching the seagulls gliding through the air – I thought to myself, I wouldn’t mind coming back as a seagull in my next life.  Met Costas for lunch at Spetsiotiko, partaking of one of our favourite meals … Barbounakia (small red mullet).  Sitting there on the seafront in Dapia, I said how blessed we are to be living on this island – it truly is a Paradise!

Costas and I – Liotrivi Restaurant – Spetses

With the media reporting all doom and gloom, in the eyes of the world, Greece does not look flash … riots, poverty, high unemployment, suicides and even bankruptcy looming.  However, here on Spetses, I live a dream life, where there are no outward signs of any of the above … with the exception perhaps of many businesses closed and fewer people around and about enjoying what island life has to offer.  For me it is still the good old Greece I first came to know many years ago – a country and it’s people both possessing irresistible beauty. 

This coming Sunday, 6 May 2012, will see a General Parliamentary Election.  With five years of recession and continuing Government cuts and imposed austerity measures, the polls have shown a decline in support for the two main parties – PASOK (Panhellenic Socialist Movement) and ND (New Democracy).  Seen as crooks and liars, many Greeks plan to abstain whilst others will make protest votes by voting for one of the many smaller parties that oppose the harsh reforms imposed by the European Union and the IMF. 

I have been back on the island for a week now.  Of course, it is Springtime and the weather is a dream … my days and nights filled with gathering memories.  Yesterday afternoon we had a rendezvous at 1500 hours for lunch with Ray and Heather at Liotrivi Restaurant in the Old Harbour.  Sitting at an outside table under an umbrella right on the seafront, partaking of the most wonderful, delightful food prepared by chef Roland, together with a first class wine.  With Bar Spetsa to open, Costas left early for home, leaving we three to pile on the bike and head for Paradise Bar/Restaurant at Agia Marina beach.  Joined by Mike and Debbie, a few drinks there then shortly after the sun went down, back on the bike and off to Bar Spetsa.  Took a call there from my son Dave … the first time I have heard from him since leaving Wanganui – we chatted for well over an hour. 

Today the weather has been more akin to a hot summer’s day.  Costas and I lunched at Bouboulina Restaurant – Barbounakia (small red mullet), patates tiganetes (fries), marouli (lettuce) salad, bread and a shared Amstel.  Tomorrow we will eat in … I have prepared fakes (brown lentils) which we will have with a broccoli salad.  For anyone who may see Greek food as uninspiring … such thoughts could not be further from the truth.

Mansion of Sotirios Anargyros – Spetses

Determined to make the most of the opportunity I have to live in this island paradise and with the weather these past few days producing clear blue skies, a light breeze and warm temperatures, I leave the house early each morning for a walk.  I have options … from Dapia (the Port) – east towards the Old Harbour, west through that area known as Kounoupitsa and on past the Anargyrios & Korgialenios School of Spetses or uphill and into the mountains.  Back in Wanganui I walk carrying my mobile telephone, not wanting to miss any opportunity for business … here I walk carrying my camera, not wanting to miss any opportunity to capture the highlights of all that I see – beautiful old buildings or parts of, fishing boats, cats, wild spring flowers and more.  Around midday is my time for an hour’s sunbathing … hopefully the wonderful turquoise coloured sea will soon be warm enough for me to enjoy a dip in.

The island of Spetses most famous benefactor, Sotirios Anargyros, left for the United States penniless then returned as a millionaire.  His Mansion in the Dapia is a formidable sight … he also built the Poseidonion Grand Hotel, founded the elite boarding school Anargyrios and Korgialenios School of Spetses and organised reforestation to replace the pine trees cut down for firewood and masts.  In antiquity, the island was so green, it was known as Pityoussa – covered with pines. 

The Poseidonion Grand Hotel first opened in 1914 then after five years of restoration, re-opened in the summer of 2009.  Over the years it has been and still is a favourite destination for high society, royalty and wealthy Athenians among others.  The Anargyrios and Korgialenios School of Spetses, opened on 1 October 1927 to train future Greek leaders, however, sadly closed in 1983.

The Bouboulina Museum is housed in what was the home of Laskarina Bouboulina … born 11 May 1771, she died tragically on 22 May 1825 – murdered on the balcony of her home by an unidentified killer.  She was a Greek naval commander and a heroine of the Greek War of Independence in 1821.  Another beautiful old building is the traditional and historic Economou Mansion … built in 1851 by the famous Captain Michail Economou, it is situated on the seafront and now houses an upmarket hotel. 

Crete I have loved for a very long time … Spetses I have loved for 2 years now – how fortunate I am to be here.

Red Poppies – Anzac Day on Spetses

Arriving back here on such a glorious sunny day with the island looking at its best … now two days on, it is difficult to believe that I was ever away from Spetses.  Spent my last afternoon in Kastelli amidst loud, lively conversation – the young ones discussing politics and religion, two favourite topics amongst Greeks.  Poor Anna, she was not well and retired upstairs very early.  I hitched a ride with Antoni and Johanna, arriving at Antonia’s in Hania at 1900 hours.

 Monday’s journey went without a hitch … bus to the airport Euro 2.30 (my taxi in when I arrived 10 days earlier was 10 times that at Euro 23).  A good flight to Athens, then on the 0935 hours bus to Piraeus.  Purchased my hydrofoil ticket, a Spanakopita (spinach pie) and a bottle of water then settled down to wait for our 1300 hours departure.  Costas telephoned … could not sleep and so was going out and would be at the jetty to meet me. Arrived on time at 1525 hours … extremely happy to be here.  A warm welcome from Costas and all four cats.  Reintroduced myself that night to Bar Spetsa … back there again last evening catching up with Ray and Heather – we passed a very pleasant evening.  Yesterday was overcast and so, with no need to venture out, spent a relaxing day at home.  Today has been absolutely glorious … a walk to the Old Harbour and returned zig-zagging my way through back streets, there are so many beautiful homes and gardens.  This is a wealthy island … many of the children have gone on to education at top university’s around the world – there is no outward recognition here of the current crisis gripping the country.  Enjoyed lunch out at Spetsiotiko … when we came home at 1400 hours, the thermometer in the garden was reading 30 degrees C! The clock is now nearing midnight … a good night’s sleep needed so that tomorrow I can again enjoy the day – another walk and perhaps I will even manage my first efforts to sunbathe.