Itisallgreek2me

Old Harbour, Spetses (Peloponneses mainland in the distance)

Following so many late nights out and our time away with Ray and Heather, life has taken on a more leisurely pace.  The weather patterns too have changed … although it is not yet cold and wintry as it was at the same time last year, a high percentage of the days have been overcast and every passing week sees the temperatures slowly dropping.  Our level of social activity has wained to a trickle, especially now that Ray and Heather have left the island, as they do every year, to return to Aberdeen for the winter. 

Sunday, a week ago, the day after we returned home from Galaxidi, Ray telephoned inviting us to lunch at their home.  Costas was over socialising and did not want to go, however, I went to enjoy the afternoon … late in which I hopped on the quad with Marilyn and together with Ray and Heather we headed down into the town for a couple of drinkies.  Costas joined us early evening, we played Pool, then just as the night before, we were in bed by 2230 hours.  The next day I cooked one of my special English breakfasts with everything … in the afternoon Costas walked with the boys whilst I decided wisely to stay at home and that evening, we lit our first fire for the season – lovely!  Our night together at home was interrupted at 2030 hours when Antonis from The Poseidonion telephoned … Costas went out to meet him, coming home with two black and white framed photographs of himself and Chris’s dog Surita running in the Spetses Mini Marathon.  It had taken place the first weekend that I was on Crete … next year I hope to be here so that I can also take part … from all accounts, this annual event is a lot of fun.

Tuesday afternoon we both decided that we would walk up in the mountains with Panayiotes, Christos and Dimitris … all younger than ourselves and each one over six feet tall.  It was to have been a walk of an hour and a half’s duration … ended up two and a half hours for us door-to-door.  The day was gloriously sunny and as we trapsed along what were often no more than steep goat trails, I was sweating profusely and at the same time, I could feel the cool breeze on my skin … a potential recipe I thought for a chill, however, I wished to believe otherwise.  That evening was to be our last opportunity to spend time with Ray and Heather before their departure on Thursday … again Costas did not want to go but I was feeling okay and so I met up with them and other friends in Votsalo Bar around 2000 hours – home by midnight.

Late the following day I had developed a sore throat and my body was aching.  Thursday morning Costas met Ray and Heather at Filippos to farewell them as we usually do.  I stayed in bed all day, being told if you want to get well, you must eat, that’s all there is to it!  My idea of what I should eat and Costas’ idea were not one and the same, however, I won on the day, being served chicken soup for lunch and rice pudding in the evening.  Friday, once again I stayed in bed all day … we had a lunch date with Antonis, I did not go, however, Costas went early to Spetsiotiko, bringing me a takeaway of my much loved Barbounakia (small red mullet) and Horta (edible wild greens).  In the evening Costas met up with Panayiotes for a few quiet drinks … by Saturday he was also full of a cold.  Feeling a need to leave the confines of the house, that night we walked to Paxni for dinner, home by 2200 hours in time to watch the movie “True Grit”.

On our walk on Tuesday, we passed Gorgoepikoou Monastery, one of two working monasteries on the island.  Here the nuns follow the Old Calendar – the slightly inaccurate “Julian Calendar” that the Western World ran on until the 16th and 17th Centuries and which is now 13 days out of alignment with the sun.  Nowadays it is only used by some parts of the Eastern Orthodox Church and in a few Berber tribes in North Africa.  The rest of us use the new “Gregorian Calendar” that was first introduced in 1582.  I now understand why most years, Easter (Pascha) in Greece is celebrated at a different time to the Western World … the Eastern Orthodox Church still use the “Julian Calendar” for calculating the dates of movable feasts.

I will finish this Blog with a reference to an article which appeared in the New York Times recently titled “The Island Where People Forget to Die”.  It is about the longevity of many of the residents of the Greek Island of Ikaria (I was there for a short stay in 2010), including a Greek War Veteran, now 97 years’ old, diagnosed in America in his mid 60’s with lung cancer.  He declined treatment, returning to Ikaria where funeral costs would be minimal as opposed to thousands of dollars in America, leaving more of his precious savings intact for his wife.  Initially confined to bed, slowly he became more active, planting a vegetable garden and surviving to harvest his produce.  Stress free living on an island where the elderly follow a simple diet of goat’s milk, wine, coffee, bread and honey for breakfast … pulses, wild greens and vegetables from their gardens at lunchtime cooked with lashings of local olive oil, goat’s milk and bread for their evening meal – meat consumed mainly on feast days and shared with family and friends.  A place where wearing a watch is not necessary, even their clocks tend not to show the correct time … they rise when they wake, work in their gardens, vineyards and olive groves, take naps in the afternoon and in the evening enjoy a little wine with family and friends.  Being a very mountainous island, by necessity they must walk a lot every day, breathing in clean air and drinking clean water.  When, after some 25 years, the Greek War Veteran decided to return to America to ask his doctors why his diagnosis of lung cancer had not taken his life within the nine months’ time span they had given him … there were to be no answers – the doctors were all dead.  If by now I have wetted your appetite, then I encourage you to Google this article to read much more.

Galaxidi on a Sunny Day

Wednesday 7 November 2012 – Our planned holiday away with Ray and Heather had arrived.  We had booked two rooms at the Art Hotel Archontiko in Galaxidi (near Delphi) for a three night stay.  Just before 1000 hours we all met on the jetty to catch the sea ferry “Katerina Star” over to Kosta on the mainland.  There we would load up the car and get on our way … first stop at a bakery in Porto Heli to buy breakfast delights.  The day was rather overcast, however, not cold … second stop for coffee high up in the hills above the new town of Epidavros.

From there we headed north, then west until we reached the Rio-Antirrio Bridge.  The world’s longest multi-span cable-stayed bridge and an engineering masterpiece … the piers can slide on their gravel beds to accommodate tectonic movement.  Opened on 7 August 2004, this bridge is 2.88km long, with six lanes and the car toll is Euro 13.20.  The bridge crosses the Gulf of Corinth near Patras, linking the town of Rio on the Peloponneses to Antirrio in mainland Greece.  We would stop at Nafpaktos (meaning boatyard) – a town with a population of approximately 20,000 and situated on a bay on the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth.  Costas new of an excellent restaurant called Papoulis … we would go there after a stroll through the town and around the lovely tiny port, having lunch on a balcony directly over the water.  We shared various plates of wonderful food … the Kalamari being especially outstanding and a very good wine too.

Our travels then continued east along the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth until we arrived in Galaxidi … a distance of some 325km from leaving Kosta in the morning.  Galaxidi is a very picturesque small town with a population of approximately 3,000 … it looked so attractive even on a cloudy day.  Situated on a natural double harbour surrounded by mountains, the deeper main harbour provides docking facilities for yachts and small fishing boats and is lined with restaurants and bars.  The smaller harbour is more residential and it was near here where we found Art Hotel Archontiko where we would stay.  Some rooms have round shaped beds, others have boat shaped beds … we looked at four then chose two rooms next to each other upstairs with conventional shaped beds, stone walls, balconies and views of the Gulf of Corinth and Parnassos Mountain.  The owner Argyrula was very charming and nothing was too much trouble.  Breakfast was enjoyed sitting in the sun in a lovely stone-paved courtyard … on leaving we were given a pot of her homemade jam to take away with us which I thought was a very nice gesture.  Once checked into our accommodation, we decided to take a walk to the main harbour … it was late afternoon, we slipped into the first establishment we came to, had a drink or two, left there and moved on to a restaurant called “Memories from the Ports” for dinner, back to our earlier watering hole then a rowdy walk home in the rain at an hour I cannot recollect. 

During the night the wind howled and I thought the next day would not dawn with favourable weather for our excursion to Delphi, however, although it was a little windy, the sun was shining in between the clouds and in fact, it was a perfect day for taking photographs.  The drive from Galaxidi to the Archaeological Site of Delphi is a splendid one.  Acres upon acres of olive trees, a silvery pale green, stretch across the valley like a carpet.  As the road winds up the mountains it is such a wonderful site to look down upon, with the Gulf of Corinth and the town of Itea further in the distance.  Best known for The Oracle at the sanctuary which was dedicated to Apollo, Delphi was thought of by the Greeks as the centre of Earth.  We decided to walk through the archaeological site first, doing our best to avoid all organised tour groups then after a refreshments break at the cafe on site, we visited the Archaeological Museum.  Lastly, it was a walk to The Oracle a little further down the road.  When I first visited Delphi back in the early 1970’s, I felt very much a sense of belonging there … that same feeling I had nearly 40 years’ on.  Immediately west of the archaeological site is situated the modern town of Delphi … a perfect place to stop for a drink and to share an amazing platter of mezes.  Returning to our hotel for a siesta, that evening we again walked to the main harbour for dinner, finishing up at a more modern bar for drinks … what a fabulous day.

Friday we awoke to the most glorious day and Argyrula suggested an excursion to Trizonia.  The only inhabited island in the Gulf of Corinth, we drove the half hour or so there, found we had just missed a boat and so telephoned for a sea taxi to take us across from Hania.  The island is incredibly green, it has a beautiful natural port with a marina for luxurious yachts … we strolled around the port and coastline where sea urchins were clearly visible on the rocks, before sitting down at a seaside cafe to drink the island dry – they only had two beers!  Once back in Galaxidi, we set off to walk around the town, returning to “Memories from the Ports” for lunch then back to our hotel for a siesta.  There is only one restaurant in the smaller harbour … built in 1800, Art Cafe Liotrivi is an old olive oil press now turned into a gallery/taverna by owner/artist Giorgos Minas.  We ate there that evening before heading around once more to the main harbour for drinkies.

On Saturday it was time to leave and the weather once again could not have been nicer.  On the road by 0930 hours, an hour later we were back in Nafpaktos, ready to explore the Venetian Fortress archaeological site which towers above the town and with wonderful views of the Rio-Antirrio Bridge in the distance.  After sitting in the sun for a coffee break at a cafe on the side of the hill, we set off yet again, stopping next in Rio to photograph the bridge.  It was getting well on in the afternoon when we finally made it to the taverna where we had planned to stop for lunch.  Once back in Porto Heli, we visited a bakery to buy bread and for Costas, what he called some ‘light’ sweets … he cannot say no to them.  It was also in Porto Heli that I captured the amazing sunset … a sea taxi from Kosta to Spetses and back in the house a little before 1800 hours feeling very satisfied with our time away.

“Happy Birthday Dear Helen”

Monday 5 November 2012 – the Closing Night Party now over, Costas arranged for Tea to meet us at the Bar at 12 noon to begin the massive cleanup from Saturday night’s celebration.  Part way through the exercise Costas said – Helen, come with me.  The day was, of course, also my birthday … I was taken to a jewellery shop and left there to choose a ring – what a lovely surprise.

The evening came and by 1930 hours we had walked to Paradise Beach on the outskirts of the town to witness a fireworks display scheduled for 2000 hours.  We were the first to arrive … we sat on the beach and waited for the rest of our party to get there.  Last year we had our fireworks on the beach by Nektarios Restaurant, however, this year Ray and Heather had purchased fireworks direct from the wholesaler and they were far too big to let off in a built up area.  Unbelievable!  On a par only with something I have seen before in organised shows put on for the public and these had been bought back from Scotland by Ray and Heather especially for the occasion.

For six of us it was then a walk back to the Old Harbour and like last year, dinner at Nektarios’ Restaurant.  The other eighteen people all mounted their bikes and quads … naturally, we were the last to arrive.  We all shared plate after plate of yummy Greek dishes with house wines until there was room for no more … except a slice of cake.  Yes, once again, just like last year, Costas had ordered for me a wonderful birthday cake … with seven candles, six for each decade and the seventh I pushed in further as after all, it counted for only two years, not ten!  Inscribed “Happy Birthday Dear Helen” … after everyone sang Happy Birthday, most of us found room and devoured a piece of what was a very nice cake.

Not yet ready to go home, a few of us headed back into the Dapia for a few drinks at Votsalo Bar … Costas and I going on from there to Boggi for our final drinks of the night.  This is where we both so enjoy listening to Greek music, especially songs of Nikolaos Xylouris, to which Costas is always compelled to sing along … a wonderful end to the evening and a perfect birthday.

The following night we met Ray and Heather, also Andy and Lesley, for a quiet meal at Filippos.  Andy and Lesley would be leaving to return home to the UK on Thursday and we, of course, were setting off with Ray and Heather the next morning for a three night stay in Galaxidi near Delphi.  This had been our fourth night out on the trot and there were another three to follow … it makes my life back in New Zealand look rather boring by comparison, however, I feel blessed to be able to live as I do in two countries on opposite sides of the world.

Balloon Man – Costas

Saturday 3 November – first task of the day … take the cats to the Vet for their vaccinations.  Costas’ first trip with Oliver, the biggest one alone in the cat cage.  Second trip with Bob and Sydney … alas, the elusive, timid one Larissa was nowhere to be found.  She would go the following morning.  I cooked and we sat down to eat a substantial English breakfast of bacon and eggs, sausages, mushrooms, onions and tomatoes … fortification for the night ahead.

Costas went to the Bar at the usual time of 2000 hours … I followed sometime before 2100 hours and wow – the Bar looked absolutely amazing.  Ray and Heather, together with a couple of others had spent two hours decorating … all in silver, of course, as this was after all a celebration of the Silver Anniversary, 25 years of the business.  Every bottle had been wrapped in tin foil, not to mention all other items they could find to treat in the same way, including the telephone and oranges in a bowl.  Silver streamers covering the walls, the magic number of 25 displayed in many places, as well as on all the helium balloons perched just below the ceiling.  Party hats, including a very special Happy Birthday Cake Hat for Costas.  Laminated photographs from over the years displayed around the Bar, as well as a slide show on a small computer.  A tiny birthday cake for one, complete with silver firecracker, which was lit out on the windowsill of the Bar.

Familiar faces, too many to mention … some who have frequented the Bar since it’s inception 25 years’ ago.  The biggest surprise of the night for Costas was when Andy and Lesley walked in – two of his first customers from the early days.  They had just arrived from the UK and came especially to be with the Greek on this very special night.  After all, it was his night and we were all there to enjoy the occasion with him … unbelievable!

If I remember correctly, we made it home around 0430 hours.  The following day was pretty much spent recovering from the night before then in the evening we went for a quiet meal at possibly my favourite taverna on the island – Paxni.  Costas and Niki, the owners there, have a wonderful garden which you see as you walk up the driveway … the food is fresh, organic and simply to die for.  Wonderful salads and meats cooked on charcoals … I had the lamb cutlets which were superb. 

Decided we would go to Votsalo Bar for a couple of drinks before heading home.  On the walk there we saw Andy and Lesley dining at Spetsiotiko … Costas invited them to join us after their meal.  What a wonderful ending to one of the most amazing weekends I believe I have ever had in my life.

Lunch at Ray and Heather’s

It is Friday and the end of another week of fantastic weather here for this time of year.  Whilst in Britain and most of Europe temperatures are down, here we are basking in sunshine under glorious blue skies … when we left the  house today at 1400 hours to enjoy lunch at Filippos, the temperature in our garden was 28 degrees C.  I brought with me clothes expecting cooler temperatures similar to this time last year … most have yet to be worn, however, in 7-10 days’ time they will probably be needed.

On Tuesday afternoon we joined friends Panayoites, Carol and Dimitris for a walk up in the mountains, my first time up there since returning to the island.  At this time of year there are very few wild flowers, crocus and cyclamen being the exception with an abundance of the latter.  The panoramic views from the ridge are breathtaking and the sound of silence is wonderful.  We returned via a path I had not taken before, allowing me to discover another part of the island.  Once the Bar closes tomorrow night for the season, we will have more time and the freedom to take walks together.

On Wednesday we were invited to Ray and Heather’s for lunch in their garden … Haggis (surprisingly tasty) with “neeps and tatties” (mashed swedes, known as turnips to some and potatoes) for starters.  Main course was a chicken, mushroom and leek pie, served with roast potatoes, carrots and cauliflower.  Dessert apple and sultanas with a sponge topping, custard sauce and ice cream.  Costas left early to return home for a siesta, I was next to leave to make my way down to the harbour to meet my Canadian friend Anna arriving on the 1625 hours Flying Dolphin.  Anna had emailed me the day before from Hydra, a neighbouring island and it was decided that she would come to Spetses for an overnight stay to see me and meet Costas.  It was so lovely to have her as a house guest … late afternoon we enjoyed a stroll together to the Old Harbour then an evening walk before going to Bar Spetsa.  The next morning Costas bought us Bougatsa (a Greek breakfast pastry with custard) then a chat over coffee at Filippos before fare welling Anna on the 1255 hours Flying Dolphin bound for Piraeus where Anna would take the 20 hour ferry journey to the island of Lemnos.  It was there where we met in 2010 when her friend Themis met me off the ferry from Chios.  He was touting cheap rooms for 20 Euro per night, I took up the offer and the rest is history. 

Last night in the Bar we joined our friend Roland to celebrate his 35th birthday.  Costas had bought him a cake … we all sang happy birthday, Roland blew out the three and a half candles then the cake was shared amongst friends.  In a few days’ time, Roland will leave to do 3 months’ National Service … he is Albanian and this will assist him to gain his papers to stay in Greece.  Ráy and Heather’s present for Roland was a brown bag labelled “Red Cross – National Service Survival Pack”.  It contained an assortment of items including a toy pistol, frisbee, a bottle of ouzo, chocolate bars, cigarettes and a box of matches.  We all had a lot of laughs.

No blog would be complete if I did not make mention of some of the yummy food we have been making and enjoying.  Fakes – brown lentil soup, Briam – oven roasted vegetables and Revithia – chick pea soup … simple and healthy Greek dishes.  Today we ate out at Filippos … a wonderful green salad, so light and fresh and slightly sweet with the addition of prunes, followed by two Pasta dishes – Amatritciana for Costas and Carbonara for me.  With very large portions, we ended up bringing two doggy bags home.

Tomorrow night the party at the Bar, my birthday to celebrate on Monday before going away with Ray and Heather to Galaxidi on Wednesday … clearly there are many more good times to come with friends.   

Helen, Costas and Panayiotes in “Boggi”

A week today since I arrived back on Spetses and life is a very happy and relaxed one.  We are blessed with continuing unseasonably warm weather.  Some days we meet at Filippos for coffee after Costas has finished his daily chores.  Other days eating lunch out at Spetsiotiko or Bouboulina overlooking the sea … enjoying Horta (edible wild greens) and/or Pantzara Salata (beetroot salad), both of which go down a treat with Barbounakia (small red mullet).  At home we have made two meze, to be enjoyed with fresh crusty bread … Tsatsiki – yogurt with cucumber and heaps of garlic (rather hot) and Fava, a puree made from yellow split peas.  The orange tree in our garden is laden, the fruits providing us with wonderful freshly squeezed juice everyday.  The garden and courtyard have also had a tidy up thanks to yours truly … something I like to do when I am here in my second home.

As tempting as it is to take myself off to Bar Spetsa every night of the week, good sense sometimes prevails and I enjoy a quiet night at home with the four cats keeping me company.  On the nights when I do go in, we generally end up moving on to Balkoni or Boggi, sometimes just the two of us, other nights with our friends Ray and Heather, Roland and Panayiotes.  On Saturday night, we went first to Balkoni, then on to Boggi where the Square was filled with motorbikes and scooters … Boggi was pumping, the young ones were dancing and generally having a ball.  I recognised many of them as guests at a wedding we had made an appearance at earlier in the evening.  Costas likes to request they play “Itane Mia Fora”, a song from Nikolaos Xylouris, a singer and Cretan lyra player.  Costas sings along very loudly in my ear, then we make the short walk home, from where we can still hear the music continuing into the wee small hours of the morning. 

Yesterday was Oxi Day, a national holiday in Greece, commemorating the rejection by Greek Prime Minister Ioannis Metaxas of the ultimatum made by Italian dictator Benito Mussolini on 28 October 1940.  Every year this day is marked with street parades and seemingly the entire community are out and about.

Many years ago I read “Attic in Greece” by Austen Kark, a book about his love affair with Greece and the Greek people and his ultimate retirement with his wife Nina to Navplion, where they purchased an almost derelict house and faced the Greek bureaucracy.  The other day I came across a copy of the book amongst Costas library … shortly I will retire to bed and read a few more pages.

Costas and I in Boggi

My last few days on Crete were quiet and relaxed happy ones, just as they had been since I first arrived.  On Thursday I went walking along the seafront and into town.  I had forgotten there was to be a general strike in Greece that day … alas, everywhere was closed, even the periptero’s (kiosks).  Later in the week when Katina said she was going to visit the cemetery, I decided I would go with her.  As we were cleaning up around the family tomb, including weeding the pot plants that are there, I came across a frog with only the top of his head and eyes protruding as he rested in the cool, damp earth.  On our way back down the hill we searched for horta (wild edible greens) – a mainstay of the old Cretan diet and very delicious!  With much needed rain, we found only a few radikio (dandelion), however, later in the day Katina went out to search once again, bringing home enough for our evening meal … a real treat.  As were the sika (figs) we picked and ate straight from the tree on our way home from the cemetery.  Free food and all to die for!

I do love so much the Greek food, especially that which I have when staying with the family in Kastelli.  One day Katina made Boureki (Greek vegetable pie) using mizithra (a soft cheese rather like cottage cheese, only nicer) made from their own goat’s milk.  One evening we had something I had never tried before – tiganites – kind of like a fritter made from flour and water with a little salt and fried.  Over these we drizzled petimezi (a grape syrup made from boiled down grapes only) – one of the oldest and most ancient recipes going back thousands of years, topped off with sprinkled sesame seeds.

Sunday came and it was time for me to move on … with some sadness, of course, however, I was very much looking forward to getting back to Costas and Spetses.  The wild mother cat and her two young had returned before I left and each day were coming a little closer to the house to eat whatever Katina had put out for them.  Hopefully they will eventually become part of the household.  My friends Antonia and Vassiles from Hania were visiting Kastelli on Sunday so it was arranged that I would catch a ride with them back to Hania for an overnight stay and early start on Monday.

Up at 0545 hours and dropped off by Antonia at the bus station in time to catch the 0700 hours bus to the airport.  A pleasant flight to Athens with Olympic Airways and just enough time to be served a chocolate croissant and coffee for breakfast.  Arriving in the capital at 0915 hours, I then caught the X96 bus to the Port of Piraeus.  It was an overcast and chilly day with a lengthy wait for the next Flying Dolphin to Spetses at 1400 hours with the rain coming down just as we were boarding.  First stop Poros, then Hydra and Ermioni, finally reaching my destination around 1630 hours where a very happy Costas was awaiting me on the jetty.  A nice meal with a glass of wine, siesta and off to Bar Spetsa in the evening.  Back there again last night to catch up with a few familiar faces including our very good friends Ray and Heather, moving on to Boggi after closing … it was a great night.  Today, Heather and Ray came to the house in order for us all to arrange a trip away in a couple of weeks’ time.  We will stay in Galaxidi, a very picturesque small town near to Delphi … I know we will have a wonderful time and looking forward to it.

Great to be back … actually, it really does not feel like I was ever away from Costas and this beautiful island.

Family home – Kastelli Kissamos

The reward for all those weeks of long hours, working towards making yet another spell in Greece possible … with the weather here unbelievably warm, day and night and still suffering lower back pain from the onslaught of Shingles within days of leaving New Zealand, I have not moved too far from the house. 

As I am reminded from time to time “then eesay xeni” – you are not a stranger, the hospitality extended to me by this family I have known for 31 years, is second to none.  Wonderful meals made from produce grown in our garden or sourced locally, accompanied by divine, chemical free wine.  My days begin with a mug of Greek coffee, Paximadia (barley rusks) and Graviera (a Cretan cheese made from sheep’s milk).  As Vassiles broke his leg recently in a motorbike accident, he is given a large mug of fresh goat’s milk, from our own obliging goat, to help the bone mend.

Greek Salads, the likes of which I can never duplicate back in New Zealand.  Cucumbers, red onions, peppers and basil all freshly picked from the garden … only the large, plump, red tomatoes need to be bought at this time of the year.  Dressed with the finest olive oil, vinegar or lemon juice … served with fresh crusty spread, by now you will all be salivating!  Should the postman arrive during lunchtime, he like anyone else will be offered food and wine.  When he declined both the other day, it was because he had already had a wine and two tsikoudia elsewhere!  After lunch on Sunday, the hot coals, over which our delicious chops had been cooked, were then used to roast freshly harvested chestnuts.  If you have never tried these, it is a must if ever you visit Greece.  This morning I sampled freshly shelled walnuts, the likes of which I have never tasted in my life.  It is all about fresh and local, produced without the use of chemicals … just as nature intended.

I don’t know what it is all about, however, everyone here seems to have become obsessed with dog ownership.  Ioanna and Antoni arrived from Hania on Sunday with their poodle pooch “Letta”.  Yesterday I visited Vanna where her mother Thespina has a wee dog called Leon and Vanna’s son Manolis has a pit bull puppy.  We have the adorable Billy, as well as Bin Laden and another addition, the latter being tied up for most of the day.  This I don’t understand, however, he is just outside in our yard with plenty of human contact, unlike Bin Laden who has been tied up in the same place by the rabbit hutches (the lives of seven rabbits ended yesterday, the carcasses now either in the fridge or freezer for later consumption) and chicken coup for as many years as I can remember … this is beyond me.

There are presently no resident cats, however, up until yesterday, Katina was feeding a wild tabby and white moggy and her two young offspring, who would appear early morning and again in the evening to eat whatever she put out for them.  Alas, they seem to have disappeared, perhaps frightened away, who knows.

This afternoon at 1600 hours,  in an attempt to escape the warmth in the house, we sat outside under the grapevine to drink our afternoon coffee … something we do every day, that is Anna, Katina and I around this hour.  However, today was a little different to most days as Anna launched into reminiscing about what was, what is and what will be.  Stories about when at the age of just 15, when she had nothing, not even a pair of shoes and Vassiles took her to be married.  Other stories about her three sons … Stratis the eldest, who passed away just 23 days after first becoming ill.  Yannis who suffered for a long time before he passed and of course, her youngest Costas who was my partner back in the 1980’s.  Costas died in Germany in 1996 at the age of just 39 … all are buried here in Kastelli.  These conversations that we have from time to time bring tears to our eyes but they are very healing.  They are also a great test of my knowledge of the Greek language.

A German friend emailed me yesterday, referring to following my dreams and keeping my spirit high … yes, I believe I am doing all of that.  Sorry I have no images to upload as yet … perhaps tomorrow I will remedy the situation.

Mum, Dave and I at Wanganui Airport

Mama Mia!  1130 hours Sunday morning and already the thermometer is reading 26 degrees C inside the house.  At the same time last year, the days and nights were considerably cooler … it would have been a good idea to have packed more summer clothes.  Never mind, I arrived safely, albeit extremely weary at 1930 hours Friday – 42 hours door-to-door.

Farewelled at Wanganui Airport by my mum, son Dave and his girlfriend Kayla.  First hiccup, our wee pencil plane was diverted to Hamilton due to a “minor” mechanical problem.  All passengers were offered a $6.00 complimentary refreshments voucher which I used to purchase a large bottle of water.  Another aeroplane was supplied and we continued on to Auckland, greeted there by a beautiful day, encouraging me to walk over to the International Terminal.  McDonald’s for lunch … fries (very salty, I’m not accustomed to eating such takeaways) and a fillet of fish burger.  An enjoyable glass of Pinot Noir before boarding my Emirates flight to Melbourne, departing at the slightly later time of 1930 hours.

My choice for dinner was the lamb, very tender.  With three seats all to myself, I was able to put my feet up and lie down whilst I listened to music and relaxed until the Fasten Seatbelts sign came on … a short spell of turbulence I can only liken to an earthquake in the air as the plane was shaken about in the sky.  Twelve hours after leaving my home, we were on the ground in Melbourne.  The usual security checks to go through on the ground, then once again airborne, bound for Dubai.  Unfortunately, no longer with the luxury of three seats to myself, in spite of taking a sleeping tablet, I managed only sporadic dozing during the long flight.  When we arrived in Dubai around 0500 hours, the outside temperature was already 28 degrees C.  Once inside the terminal I had plenty of time to freshen up and shop amongst the throngs of people until takeoff bound for Athens. 

Watching the screen countdown the “Time to Athens” – how good can that possibly feel as I listened to Sam Cooke’s “A Change Is Gonna Come” and “You’ve Really Got a Hold on Me” amongst others.  The loveliest of crews moving like poetry in motion as they tend to our needs, including a very charming Greek steward and a black guy, full of humour and the joys of life!  Out the window all I could see was blue sky, clouds and from time to time, the sand of desert lands.  Flying through a neutral zone, however, on a sobering note, very much aware of the conflict taking place down below, especially in Syria.  Then, 90 minutes out of Athens, the wonderful blue Mediterranean Sea below.  Of course, from time to time, I would remind myself that this journey from Auckland to Athens return, was compliments of Emirates, for which I am very grateful.

Scheduled arrival time in Athens 1400 hours on Friday, 1625 hours departure with Aegean Airlines to Hania, Crete – caught a bus into the Centre,  just in time to hop on another, the final leg of my journey, arriving at the family home in Kastelli around 1930 hours.  A light meal of hilopita (noodles made with their own eggs and milk) and in bed by 2130 hours, not moving from there until 1630 hours Saturday.  Today I am feeling human again, just as well as we are expecting a number of the family to turn up this afternoon.

Anna, the family matriarch is now 93.  When I first became acquainted with the family in 1981, Anna was the age that I am now.  Back then the family spanned three generations … with Anna’s first great great grandchild due soon, a fifth generation will begin.  How privileged and blessed am I to be accepted as one of them. 

Costas and I – moments before saying farewell

My thoughts had been, not to bother writing a Blog about my journey back to New Zealand, unless there was something extraordinary to tell … and there is, so here goes.

Tuesday, my last day in Spetses with Costas … aside from getting organised for my departure, we had lunch out together at Filippos and I arrived in Bar Spetsa before 2100 hours.  As expected, Ray and Heather came in to see me, also Debbie – after enjoying four 5 Star Metaxa’s with ginger ale, I was home before 0030 hours, supposedly for a night of slumber.  Unfortunately, sleep was not too forthcoming and Costas late arrival home at 0540 hours did nothing to help the situation, but … never mind.

Wednesday morning out of bed at 0820 hours … made ready for my journey, said farewell to the cats, then Costas and I made the short walk to Filippos for coffee – but first, freshly squeezed orange juice and a toasted sandwich.  I had no idea when the next refreshments would be as my schedule was a tight one.  Joined by Ray and Heather …  a sad but controlled departure on time at 1045 hours, arriving in Piraeus at 1330 hours.  Anxious about whether or not the bus would get me to the airport on time, I had pretty much decided to take a taxi.  Ready and waiting to be one of the first off the hydrofoil, I was swamped by taxi drivers looking for business.  Knowing the cost should be no more than 50 Euro, I went with Ioannis in his Mercedes Benz … he quoted 45-46 Euro, seemed honest and has been in the business 28 years.  Ioannis had me to the airport in 45 minutes and I paid 46 Euro.  Thank goodness I took a taxi.  Had I not, I doubt that I would have been in time to take advantage of what was about to be offered to me.

Proceeded immediately to Emirates economy check-in desk.  Was asked if I had booked and paid for my ticket myself … yes, strange I thought but I had for the first time booked myself online.  Anyway, after a 5 minute wait and an attempted telephone call, I was told to go to Desk 35 – apparently there was a “message” for me.  As I waited, Costas telephoned … told him to phone back as at that point, I did not know what was going on.  Others ahead of me were taking some time to process … after a long wait, my turn came and very soon I was to realise the wait would be worthwhile. 

Due to over sales, Emirates were asking me to accept re-routing with Aegean Airlines to Larnaca, Cyprus and then on to Dubai with Emirates, arriving just a couple of hours later than I would have done on the flight I had booked.  In return, I was offered and of course, accepted an Options Voucher … valid for one year and the reason for issue being Denied Boarding Compensation – A COMPLIMENTARY TICKET FOR A ROUND TRIP – Auckland/Athens/ Auckland!  Thank you very much Emirates – I will certainly be able to use it come October.

So it was a frenetic hour and a half at the airport … from Desk 35 to the Emirates ticketing and reservations – to the far end of the terminal to check-in my luggage with Aegean Airlines – Costas called again as I raced back to Emirates ticketing and reservations – quickly told him of my good fortune and felt guilty that I had not the time for a decent conversation – passport control – duty free purchases of Metaxa 5 Star x 2 for me and a Metaxa 7 Star for my son Dave – through security check , then on to Gate A13.  Flight time to Larnaca 1 hour 10 minutes during which time we were served a Baguette with Turkey and Edam Cheese – also a Yogurt with Honey and I had a coffee.  Waiting time at Larnaca Airport would be about three and a half hours during which time I would sit in a Bar with a pint of Amstel and write this Blog thus far.

Eventually up and away on an A330-200 … it had come from Malta and would take us all on to Dubai.  Before boarding I spoke with a lady from Perth who together with her husband, had been visiting family in Greece, as well as two guys from Sydney who were part of a television crew … they too had received complimentary round trips and were as ecstatic as I was.  We were served dinner which I had with a red wine – all very nice and with a spare seat next to me, a little more room to spread out and relax.

Arrived in Dubai 0100 hours local time (midnight Greek time) – made it to my hotel by 0230 hours and in bed by 0330 hours.  Knowing my wake up call would be at 0700 hours, I didn’t sleep all that well, afraid I may not hear the call and miss my flight … I needed to catch the shuttle bus back to the airport by 0800 hours.  Checked in luggage weighed 25.2kg … hand luggage – well, that would be any one’s guess and added to further with duty free shopping.  Settled into window seat 49K on the A380-800 with a spare seat between me and a very pleasant lady travelling from London back to Sydney.  Lunch went down well, then settled in for the long haul … as always I enjoyed listening to music such as Sam Cooke and Eric Clapton to name but two and I watched some eight episodes of “Fawlty Towers”.  Dozed a little, served pizza sometime during the night and breakfast closer to arriving in Sydney.  At the airport brushed teeth, washed face and all that stuff which makes one feel a whole lot better.  As we left Sydney, the views of the city were just stunning.  Served another breakfast … smooth run all the way to Auckland – 1525 hours flight on to Wanganui – back now with family and friends.