Itisallgreek2me

Over the weekend, the weather on Crete changed somewhat from perfect late Spring sunny days, to overcast skies and a gradual increase in wind intensity. By the time I ventured upstairs to bed on Saturday evening via the external stairs and during the night, I wondered just how much stronger the wind could blow.

I have witnessed this phenomenon before on Crete, when hot winds blowing in from the south transport billions of particles of red dust, known as the Sahara Dust… creating a suffocating atmosphere and surreal scene. If it rains at the same time, it rains mud! The Sahara Dust contains a whole list of hazardous metals, capable of impacting on human health and the environment. Fortunately, this time it wasn’t too severe and today it appears to be over… climate change.

My plans were to return to Chania today for a 2 night stay with my friends Tonia and Vasilis. However, Tonia is in Heraklion and the family member I was going to visit is unwell so I made the decision to stay one more night in Kastelli… enabling me to enjoy another meal of Katina’s Yemista – various stuffed vegetables, vine leaves and courgette flowers, delicious!

For me, a visit to Kastelli would not be complete if I omitted to purchase a Gardenia plant (Costas favourite) to take to the Parthenona (cemetery) on the hill to leave at the tomb of our men folk who have passed… and light the small oil-fired lamp in the glass fronted cabinet. It is always an emotional time and very much appreciated by Anna who is no longer able to make it up the hill. Today I bought a second Gardenia for Anna which she has already transplanted into a larger pot.

Tomorrow, Tuesday morning, I will catch a bus to Chania and on Wednesday move on to Rethymno.

Although I first visited Greece in 1973, it was in 1981 whilst travelling on an Around the World ticket, that I first came to Kastelli. I arrived by ferry very early in the morning from Gythio in the Peloponneses, found a room to rent then walked to the beach. Unbeknown to me, on the way I was noticed by Costas. We met later in the day… 5 days on and I had moved in with him and his mother Anna. Bear in mind, this was not common back in those days. At the time, our neighbours on one side were arranging the marriage of their daughter. In the house on the other side lived a retired fisherman with his wife, their home was without electricity and still had dirt floors. Sadly, Costas passed away in 1996 aged 39. I had left long ago, however, the extended family will always consider me to be one of them and when in Greece, I always make a point of visiting.

Today on my walk around the town, I stopped by the historical Holy Metropolis of Kissamos & Selinon Church of the Transfiguration of Jesus & Saint Spyridon. A lovely woman by the name of Mika was there busy preparing the church for a wedding this afternoon but she still found time to converse with me and explain much of the history of the church. Mika remembered that Costas had a foreign girlfriend, however, she would not have recognized her as me.

Back in the 1980’s our house consisted of two rooms down and two rooms upstairs. After Costas passed, Anna’s son Yani, together with his wife Katina and their family moved in with Anna and quite major alterations were carried out to the family home. Tragically, Yani passed away in 2001 aged 58. Katina and their eldest Vasilis continue to live here with Katina taking wonderful care of Anna.

I lost count long ago of how many in the extended family, however, I do know in the old days we were 22. At the age of 98, Anna’s mind is still sharp and if she was not having her siesta right now, she would be able to tell me exactly how many grandchildren, great grandchildren and great great grandchildren there are.

I know I’m running the risk of repeating myself, however, let me say once again how blessed and privileged I am to be considered one of this family.

May the 1st is International Labour Day and in Greece it is called “Protomagia” (literally meaning the first day of May). It is a National Holiday and people traditionally go to the countryside for picnics, to fly kites and to gather wild flowers. Wreaths made from these flowers are hung on the doors of many homes to welcome nature and all good things.

May is the last month of Spring and the wild flowers are no longer at their best, however, I have been on a long walk this morning around Kastelli to photograph some of nature’s blooms, including chicory, borage, mallow, honeywort, thistle, dandelion, rocket, statice and red poppies.

This is my tribute to Protomagia.

No matter when Easter falls in Greece, somehow the weather gods always manage to turn it on… this year being no exception. 90% of Greeks are Orthodox and every year, Easter is the biggest religious festival. Family and friends gather to celebrate… eating, drinking, with music and dancing like there’s no tomorrow. This year we joined family and friends at Yani and Maria’s, eventually moving on to Vanna and Roma’s. While Anna and I retired early, others continued into the wee small hours.

There was a time earlier in the year when I thought I may have to postpone my trip. Whilst out on my early morning walk around the bridges on 23 February, I tripped on flax, hit the ground hard, fracturing my left wrist in several places! And, I’m left handed! Six weeks in a cast, still with a compression sleeve and brace, I suspect it will need further investigation upon my return to New Zealand.

Stunning weather today and yesterday, perfect for doing very little. There’s still snow on the mountains, the sea amazingly blue, our 50 plus budgerigars and zebra finches happily chirping away and the 7 dogs all sleeping in the shade.

I will never tire from strolling around the Old Harbour area of Chania… an extraordinary place to see and photograph. However, as much as I enjoyed my stay at Fivos Pension, leaving yesterday was made easier knowing my next stop would be in Kastelli Kissamos, where I will stay with my Cretan family for the next 10 days. Needless to say, it is wonderful to be back here. Anna, 98… the family matriarch, never ceases to amaze me with her strength and zest for life. Anna’s grandson Mihalis visited yesterday with his wife Ariana and their daughters. Mihalis remarked that he expects Anna to be with us for another 10 years which wouldn’t surprise me. Anna would have to be the finest woman I’ve ever known. I feel blessed and privileged to be accepted here as one of the family.

After touching down in Athens last night, made my way to departure gate 15B for the flight to Chania, Crete. Normally I would catch a bus into the city, however, they have stopped running by that hour at night so took a taxi then walked the last 10 minutes to my accommodation at Fivos Pension in the Old Harbour, arriving just on midnight. Excellent choice found on Booking.com, perfect room for me, comfortable bed, fantastic shower, quiet and location, location, location! 30 Euro per night.

After a much needed good night’s sleep, this morning I ventured for a walkabout… changed my Sim Card over to a Greek number, bought my ticket for the bus tomorrow to Kastelli Kissamos and enjoyed a chicken Souvlaki for brunch… great value at 2.70 Euro (about NZ$4.50).

After, what has been for me, a lengthy absence from Greece (I was last there in 2016, however, regrettably during that visit I only used my Facebook profile and not my website), on 23 April I will commence my journey back to the land where I left my heart when first visiting in 1973.

The plan is to Blog and Publish Images on my website www.itisallgreek2me.com which will be linked to my newly setup Facebook page It Is All Greek 2 Me

Let’s now see if everything is going to plan!

Monday 3 August – my last night in Kastelli Kissamos for now.  Tomorrow I will return to Chania for an overnight stay before commencing the long journey back to New Zealand.  Yesterday morning I went down to the beach, just as I have done so everyday for the past week … not the most beautiful beach in the world but it suits me to have it pretty much all to myself.  Lying on my towel on the stones soaking up the sun, floating in the sea … the same sun, the same water as you will find at any of the nearby beaches where hundreds flock to during the summer months.  Balos, Falasarna, Elafonissi … three beautiful beaches on Crete’s west coast, however, I prefer my solitude.

It is very much expected on a Sunday that family members will visit and yesterday was no exception … around 1430 hours we all sat down to a feast.  Sadly, Anna left later in the afternoon with her grand-daughter Kostoula for Chania where she is staying with her daughter Kiki for a while.  We had had our last meal and wine together for now.

Vanna had invited me to their house in the evening for yet another meal … unfortunately, I find the food here hard to resist, not to mention the wine (last night Roma served an extra nice red) and Tsikoudia, 10L of which can be bought for E30.  One meal I particularly enjoyed last week was Horta (vleeta from our garden) with potatoes, beans, courgettes, sweetcorn and fresh fish.  When I discarded the head of my fish, Anna said to me in Greek “give me the head, it would be a crime to waste it”.  Nothing goes in the rubbish, if we don’t eat it, then there are the dogs, cats, chickens, rabbits to be fed.  Between meals I have been indulging in the first fresh figs of the season … the best I have ever tasted.  Apparently, where Katina goes early each morning to pick them, there are several trees, however, the local women all pick from the same tree which is known to produce a variety of exceptional taste.  Oh how I will miss them.

I have very little left to do now in Kastelli, only in the morning I will make my pilgrimage up to the Parthenona (cemetery) on the hill, to pay my respects to Costas, just as I do every visit.  If there is time then perhaps I will also take one last walk down to the beach.  A bus to Chania some time in the afternoon, an early night I hope then on Wednesday at 0920 hours my flight back to Athens, continuing on via Abu Dhabi, Perth, Auckland to Wanganui … to my home and family.

 

Monday morning at 1000 hours signaled my departure yet again from Spetses and Costas … the end of eight and a half wonderful weeks together on the island.  Making the most of those last days, saw me everyday at Agios Mamas beach. Just when I thought it could not get any hotter, it did the last week … thank goodness for the meltemi (the strong, dry, north winds of the Aegean Sea which blow in the summer months).  That last week on Spetses, I also made the best of the evenings, going many times to Bar Spetsa.  With my dear friend Helen on the island from Athens with her twin boys Constantinos and Stefanos, Anna and Motty from Norway (annual visitors to the island for 19 years), as well as many of the usual suspects including Ray and Heather, Suzie and Steve … there was always someone for company.

It is never easy saying our farewells, however, as Costas once said to me in the early days … it is not like I won’t be back, only this time I am not sure when that will be.  I was tired from a relatively late night and had not slept all that well.  The Flying Cat 3 arrived in Piraeus just before 1200 hours, having stopped at Hydra only so a quick trip at a cost of E38.50 (approx. NZ$64), the ticket now reflecting the new increases in taxes.  Found a shady spot to sit and eat my Bougatsa (custard filled pastry) which Costas had bought for me at the bakery, on his way home from the bar in the early hours.  Just missed one bus to the airport, waited half an hour for the next, then a long wait albeit in air-conditioned comfort for my Check In to open.  The 50 minute flight to Chania painless, caught the bus into town, then walked to my friends Antonia and Vassiles’ house … concluding a journey of 9 hours duration.

When I left Chania yesterday morning, Antonia was working in the bakery downstairs so once again, I walked to the bus station in time to catch the 1100 hours bus to Kastelli Kissamos and my other home in Greece.  Since living here in the early 1980’s with Costas No.1, I have returned whenever possible to spend time with my Cretan family who see me as one of them … how blessed and privileged am I to have this association and acceptance.  Anna the family matriarch is now 95 and is quite possibly the finest woman I have ever met … I have so much admiration for her.  Anna, Katina and Vassiles were at the house to greet me.  It was not long before we were sitting down for lunch … Tzatziki (yoghurt and cucumber dip), Kokoras me Patates sto founo (rooster with potatoes, baked in the oven with lots of lemon), fresh, crusty bread and as always, a glass or two of wine.  Then, I could not resist a walk down to the beach … in the evening came Vana and Roma, Katerina and Yani with his son Yani, just 10 months’ old, Anna’s youngest great-grandson.  In typical Greek style, we sat around the table in the garden until late, eating mezes and drinking Tsikoudia (a very potent alcoholic drink, made from the pieces of grapes that were pressed for the winemaking process) and Krassi (wine).  With the heat and a beach party in full swing nearby until some ungodly hour this morning, sleep did not come easily to me.

However, today I went early to the beach … Vasilles told me of another road down there where I had no one within earshot of me.  The only sound, the lapping of the sea at the water’s edge … as I floated around in the warm, clear water with small fish in my company, I looked back towards the town and the mountains, reminded of how much I love Crete.  Of course, Spetses has a special place in my heart too, mainly because that is where I share my life with Costas, but for me, nowhere I know in the world compares with the north west corner of Kriti.  I love the people, the lifestyle, the climate, the landscape, the food and the wine.  Katina made Yemista (stuffed tomatoes, courgettes, capsicum, vine leaves and courgette flowers baked in the oven, served with a dollop of Greek yoghurt) for our lunch today.  So yummy, to die for … with many of the ingredients coming from the family’s own organic garden, there really is nothing to compare.

One week from today I will have commenced my long journey back to New Zealand … look for one more Blog in a few days’ time.  Now I am off for a short siesta … one can expect visitors again tonight.

 

Friday 10 July was the night of Gerald’s barbecue … the day before Vivienne and Dave were to come from Athens.  One of the first to arrive there just after 1800 hours, we sat in the downstairs courtyard drinking Moscow Mule’s, then just before sunset, Gerald summoned us all to the upstairs terrace to view the sunset and devour an overly large leaf-shaped platter of canapes, eventually returning downstairs for our main meal … Kondosouvla (imagine a large souvlaki, wrapped in paper, slow roasted on a spit over an open charcoal pit – extra crispy and extra tasty meat) accompanied by an assortment of delicious salads.  I left earlier than most that night, knowing that I would have an extremely busy eight days ahead of me.

The following day, Saturday, I went for my usual dip and sunbathe at Agios Mamas beach.  It was busier than normal down there that weekend with a three-day Regatta for youngsters aged 7 to 17 years.  At around 1620 hours the Flying Cat 6 arrived at the quay from Piraeus … I was there to meet Vivienne and Dave, along with Filippos who would take their luggage to Villa Marina, allowing us to stroll along the seafront … were they really here with me on our island paradise, it was hard to believe.  Their time in Athens had gone well, the only negative being the loss of Dave’s backpack.  They had arrived late on Monday night in Athens after a long journey, took the bus heading into Syntagma Square, got off near the Crowne Plaza Hotel where they were to stay and unfortunately, did not realize until they had reached the hotel that they had left the backpack on the bus stop seat before taking a taxi the final leg.  The loss of Dave’s passport necessitated visits to the New Zealand Consulate and police stations … this was not in their itinerary!  A new passport is now awaiting him at their airport hotel in Athens where they will stay tomorrow night (Tuesday) before commencing the long journey back to Auckland.

Before they arrived on the island, I had given some thought to what we would do their first night here.  In the afternoon they had gone for a swim at Agios Mamas beach, a mere 30m from their accommodation.  Bar Spetsa too is even closer and we arranged to meet there around 2000 hours to see Costas.  A walk through the town to The Poseidonion Grand Hotel for an aperitif on the terrace, then on to Akroyialia Restaurant in Kounoupitsa for dinner where the tables and chairs sit right on the sand (a scene from Shirley Valentine maybe).  It was 2200 hours by the time we arrived and unfortunately, I had not made a booking, however, we sat at a table inside for a while until an outside table was free … a wonderful meal, well worth waiting for.  From there, of course, it was back to Bar Spetsa for a nightcap then off to bed.

The following day, Sunday, around midday we took a horse and buggy ride down to the Old Harbour … a small mishap on the way when a horse and buggy in front clipped a roadside Moped.  Our buggy driver was not too happy and he had to quieten down his horse … fortunately, in the end, the incident amounted to very little.   We walked around to the Church of Panagia Armata and on to see Natalia Mela’s sculptures, including the wonderful mermaid, then up to the lighthouse, through the suburb of Pitioussa with its collection of expensive homes, by Garyfallo Bay, finally ending up at Agia Marina (Paradise Beach).  After a well-earned cold drink at the bar (for Viv and I it was freshly squeezed orange juice), a swim before retiring to sunbeds on the beach then when we were hungry, sat down to a shared platter of cold meats and cheeses with a salad.  A lovely walk home, meeting up in the Bar in the evening where I was able to introduce Viv and Dave to many of our friends.

On the Monday they decided to hire a Moped to go around the island, leaving me to have time out on the beach and a catch up of things at home.  Early that evening we ate wood fired pizza at Quarter in the Square then into Bar Spetsa, naturally, however, I was home by 2200 hours to take a telephone call from my mum but also very much aware that we had an early start the next day.

Tuesday saw me up at 0500 hours, meeting Viv and Dave on the quay at 0600 hours, in time to catch the 0610 hours Flying Cat 6 to the island of Poros … the start of what was to be a very long day.  After walking for a while, Dave came up with the idea that we could hire a quad bike but no, three people on one is not allowed.  Okay, then two Moped’s, Dave would ride one with me on the back and Viv would ride the other.  Alas, that was not to be either as Viv, having never ridden one before, took off a little too fast and the bike hire proprietor said no, sorry, you are going nowhere.  So we walked up to the clock tower and through the narrow streets, eventually arriving back down in the town where we had brunch before ordering a taxi to take us to the nearest beach … the taxi returning at 1415 hours to go catch the Flying Dolphin to the island of Hydra.  Once there, our first stop … for a nice cold beer, sitting in the beautiful harbor.  A do love Spetses so much, however, a great thing about Hydra is there are no motorized bikes which on Spetses, there are too many of and they annoy me to hell.  On Hydra, only donkeys and hand drawn carts.  After our beer, I took Viv and Dave on what was to be a very hot walk up into the hills to view Hydra from above.  Once back down at sea level, they had a swim off the rocks just around from the town, then we walked along to the village of Kamini where we had dinner at Kodylenia’s Taverna whilst watching the sunset … amazing!  Later that evening as we waited for our hydrofoil back to Spetses, it was a joy to watch the children playing in the street and then when the boat arrived, to witness their incredible excitement as they greeted their cousins/friends.  At 2315 hours, I finally walked in the door at home.

Wednesday, as we were going to have an early dinner at Spetsiotiko, lunch consisted of a coffee and toasted sandwich at Klimis before spending time at the beach.  That evening I introduced Dave to the “boys” who meet weekly to play Pool at Point of View.  Dave made eight of them in all and he had a ball … thoroughly enjoying his time with them.  Viv and I sat outside for a quiet drink before moving on to Bar Spetsa and I was home relatively early by Greek standards at 0130 hours.  By now Dave was saying “This has to be the best holiday of my life”!

Thursday was another very early start with Viv and Dave coming to meet me at the house at 0630 hours … I had planned a long walk for us up into the hills.  Our first stop was the bakery where I bought pastries for us to eat when we arrived at the top near the Hunters’ Refuge … a Spanakopita (spinach pie) for Viv and a Bougatsa (custard filled pastry) for Dave and I.  On the way up I pointed out to them the little house and allotment that one day I would love to own … it’s location is amazing.  Also John and Penny’s house near the little pink church of Panagia Kapsodematousa.  After a walk along the ridge, we came to the Hara Estate, a property which has always fascinated me.  As far as I can ascertain, the home was abandoned more than 50 years’ ago.  Owned by the Botasis family, the last inhabitants were the poet sisters Maria and Irini Botasis and Irini’s husband Herman, after they retired from living in Switzerland.  Also on the Estate is the small church built in 1901 in honour of Virgin Mary the Myrtle Bearer.  It is a replica of a church in the French Alps where the family often vacationed.  I am never quite sure of the path from there down to the Gorgoepikou Monastery and church, however, we found a way.  I chatted with one of the nuns who was extremely nice and friendly.  After looking inside the beautiful church, we then appeared to upset three other nuns … I think they thought we were taking pictures of them and they do not like it.  By the time we arrived back in the town, we had been walking for the best part of four hours.  Visiting the beach was then a priority before having lunch with Costas at Bouboulina Restaurant, that night time spent in the Bar, capping off another wonderful day.

On Friday Vivienne and Dave decided to hire bicycles and pretty much do their own thing, leaving me free until 2030 hours when we met with Ray and Heather and Beverley at Bar Spetsa for pre dinner drinks before going to Paxni Taverna for dinner.  Possibly my favourite restaurant on the island, it is not easy to find, located in a residential area about a 10 minute walk up from the town.  The garden setting is amazing and in the winter sitting inside where the wine (their own) is all stored in barrels … the vegetables too are from their own organic garden.  We started with mezes … Saganaki (fried cheese), Gigantes (giant beans), Fava (split yellow pea dip), Kalokithakia (courgettes) and Horiatiki Salata (Greek salad).  Then shared a kilo of barbecued lamb chops … Costas specialty being his delicious barbecued meats.  Not surprisingly, we returned to Bar Spetsa where I stayed until closing at 0415 hours (early for the time of year).  Costas and I then went to Abari Bar … Spiros was closing but he sat with us outside whilst we had a drink and we were home by 0500 hours.

Saturday was Viv and Dave’s last full day on the island.  They decided to keep their bicycles for another day and headed down to Paradise Beach with goodies from the bakery.  Just before 2030 hours they passed by the house and we walked to The Poseidonion Grand Hotel to meet once again with Ray and Heather and Beverley.  It was pretty much Moscow Mule cocktails all round, the other three went on their bikes, while Viv, Dave and I took a horse and buggy ride to Liotrivi Restaurant (The Old Olive Press) for dinner on the water’s edge.  Fine dining but, unfortunately, windy and a little cold for me … nevertheless, I enjoyed my Fish Soup, followed by Grilled Salmon.  It was the eve of Viv and Dave’s first wedding anniversary … when a rose seller came by, Dave bought a red rose for Viv and a yellow one for we other three girls.  From Liotrivi we walked to Asteria to hear what was very loud, live Greek music, ending our night as one does in Bar Spetsa.

Like they say, all good things must come to an end and yesterday I was down on the quay to see Viv and Dave leave on the 1000 hours Katerina Star ferry.  I did feel sad seeing them go, however, we have so many happy memories.  It was such a joy and a pleasure to be their “Tour Guardian” … I will miss them.