Itisallgreek2me

No ordinary Sunday in Greece, it also happens to be the day all eligible Greeks are supposed to vote in the triple elections for the European Parliament as well as regional and local elections. Where can someone escape to in Athens to avoid the crowds? Today I found the answer.

Very close to where I am staying is the First Cemetery of Athens… official cemetery of the city of modern day Athens and the first to be built. It opened in 1837 and soon became a prestigious cemetery for both Greeks and foreigners. A large green space with pine trees, cypresses, olives and oranges. Numerous notable internments including Archbishops, Prime Ministers, Politicians, Archaeologists, Actors and Actresses, Composers, Singers, Poets and Painters… the reason for so many tombs with such impressive and striking sculptures.

Interestingly, in Greece you are only allowed 3 years in your grave then they dig you up and put your bones in an ossuary to make room for the next person, that is unless you have your own mausoleum as many families do. Also of note is the fact that the Greek Orthodox Church does not allow cremation.

Today I discovered a hauntingly beautiful, peaceful and tranquil place to visit where the birds were singing… I encountered very few humans, no ghosts and many moggies.

Overnight Thursday it occurred to me that it is possible to see much of ancient and modern Athens for free! If you care to view all the images I have uploaded, on this Blog and the previous one, you will understand what I mean… pretty amazing, don’t you think?

Out and about early Friday morning to walk to the Acropolis Museum. Registered for the 6.00pm free guided tour with an Archeologist… only paying the usual E10 entrance fee. Numbers limited to 40. On to Oionos Cafe in the Plaka for a necessary double cappuccino… didn’t sleep so well.

A very pleasant day for walking… not so hot. From the Plaka, I headed around the Acropolis to Monasteraki and on to Ermou Street, hoping to hear again the street musicians from the previous day. However, a different group playing and although it featured one of the guys from the day before, they simply weren’t the same. Picked up a Souvlaki for lunch from, in my opinion, the overrated O Kostas shop near Syntagma Square where I sat to eat and watch the world go by. Around 1 o’clock, a large group of mainly young Greek “greenies” arrived demonstrating and chanting “There is no planet B”.

The Acropolis Museum Tour ended up being of 90 minutes duration. Maria, our Archeologist Guide was extremely knowledgeable but, unfortunately, at times it was difficult to hear her over the voices of other visitors to the Museum. However, definitely worth considering if you’re in Athens on a Friday.

By the time we finished I was feeling a little peckish so carried on to the Plaka. Lured in by the Happy Hour beer and wine prices at Byzantino Taverna, I sat down and ordered a glass of white wine and Pastitshio. Ended up being overcharged for my food and when I questioned the waiter he denied it. So I paid up then posted an extremely poor review of them on TripAdvisor.

It’s the early hours of Sunday morning here and I have not long come in from an evening out with a very dear friend… another Helen! I gave her a lovely surprise when I sent her a message a couple of days ago. We had had no contact at all for 3 years… wonderful catchup.

48 hours into my Athens visit and I am well settled into what is the Eilissos Theatre during winter months and an Airbnb for the remainder of the year. A really cool space with artwork on the walls and the cutest little courtyard. My bed is in the stage area with a piano. The only drawback is that it is in close proximity to a very busy road. Day and night the traffic noise is unrelenting.

I have spent much of the past 2 days strolling around central Athens… Syntagma, Monasteraki, Plaka and the Acropolis areas. Many of the archeological sites which used to be free entry are now charging admission. Since I have pretty much visited them all over the years, I have decided to view from the outside looking in and I’m surprised at just how much I can see.

Walked by the Odeon of Herodes Atticus where I will be at the Jethro Tull concert mid June. Other places of note which are all in my photographs… Hadrian’s Arch, The Stadium, The Zappeion, Tower of the Winds, Parliament with the Evzones and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, National Gardens and the Flea Market. Went up to the 5th floor of a building to look down on and photograph Syntagma Square.

I remember how Athens was when I lived here in the early 1970’s… it has changed in so many ways but you know, I’m still captivated by it! The little periptera, or kiosks/newsagents where you can buy just about anything. Street sellers, street musicians… the latter have me under their spell.

After our big day out on Friday, took things slowly on Saturday and did not leave the house. On Sunday the weather wasn’t so nice, mainly overcast and windy, however, Anna and I set off mid morning to walk to the village of Thanos and back. Lunch that day included some of the mulberries we collected on Friday, served with Greek yogurt and maple syrup… yummy!

In the evening we went out to eat at Ouzeri To 11, a traditional Greek taverna in a little side street off the main beach front drag. Wonderful restaurant, great atmosphere, delicious and fresh food, good wine and all at a very good price… I would highly recommend it and the bag of fish scraps we took home made our family of cats extremely happy.

On Monday the wind continued to blow, not particularly to my liking but nothing one can do about it. Another quiet day, although Anna and I had a lovely walk along the beach front around sunset. What is disturbing here in Greece, at least certainly over Lemnos, are what I believe to be “Chemtrails” in the sky. A quick Google search informed me that this is also occurring in New Zealand and probably worldwide. I strongly recommend you all do your own research and form your own opinions.

Since a taxi to the airport yesterday was going to cost me 30 Euro and a “mate’s rate” rental would only cost 25 Euro, we decided to hire another car for my last day and see a little more of the island. First stop Amoothines – sand dunes, a 7 hectare desert, arguably the only one or one of two deserts in Europe.

A walkabout Moudros Bay was also interesting. During the Gallipoli Campaign in the 1st World War, the town and its harbour were used as a base for the allied forces. 148 Australian and 76 New Zealand soldiers who died during the Campaign are buried in the Commonwealth War Graves Commission cemetery there. During WW2 Moudros Bay was a base for German ships controlling the Northern Agean Sea. Visiting the remains of a tower and buildings allegedly built by the Germans and used to house and torture prisoners was a moving experience.

During the course of the day we passed through numerous villages, with Themis choosing Andreas Taverna in Kaminia as our lunch spot… lingering and relaxing over several small plates of food and a couple of ouzos each. When we returned to the car – shock, horror – it wouldn’t start! When Sotiris eventually arrived from Myrina, all was revealed… Themis had left the lights on and our battery was completely dead.

Lack of time meant that I then needed to be dropped off at the airport for my flight to Athens, arriving around 9.00pm. Caught the Metro to Syntagma Square, changing lines for the one stop ride to Acropoli station. Cutting a long, weary story short, I managed to get lost on the walk to my lodgings, thus ending a very long day. But, one could say, well worth the journey. When not being used as a theatre space, it is an Airbnb… unique, quirky, cool, I like it, but, neither the owner nor any of the reviews I read mentioned the nonstop traffic noise from a nearby busy road, including maniacal speedsters throughout the night. Pity, as it will most likely put me off ever staying here again.

Never mind, I have another 9 nights in Athens to rediscover the city I’ve not spent time in on my own for a very long while.

On Thursday evening, a unanimous decision was made… I would hire a car for Friday and Themis would be our driver and guide. My only stipulation was that I very much wanted to visit the chapel of Panagia Kakaviotissa. The only roofless church in the world, it is located inside a rock cavity at an altitude of 260m on the top of Kakavos Mountain. Founded in 1416AD by monks who managed to escape the Turkish invasion of the small island of Agios Efstratios, it used to be a shelter for monks and hermits.

For us it was about a half hour relatively easy walk up, rewarded with the most striking and breathtaking views and once there, I certainly experienced a feeling of spiritual enlightenment. For a very long time I have held great expectations for that excursion. Those expectations were met but not exceeded.

Lemnos is known as the homeland of the Amazons and home to the God Hephaestus. Due mainly I would guess to the distance from Athens, to date, Lemnos has been spared from mass tourism. Themis knows every little nook and cranny of the island so after visiting Panagia Kakaviotissa, Anna and I were more than happy to let Themis decide where we would go.

Some of you will be aware of my long standing interest in herbaceous plants, particularly from the Mediterranean region. Themis is very knowledgeable about such things too and knows exactly where to go on the island to find what he is looking for. Yesterday, much to my delight, we made three stops to gather from nature. The first stop was for the Curry Plant (Helichrysum italicum) a little of which was gathered, however, Themis and I agreed that it probably needed at least a couple more weeks before harvesting. Later on our travels we stopped to pick Chamomile in a field where it is growing like topsy! Then there was the Kritama, a wild edible plant that grows along the rocky coasts of Greece and other Mediterranean countries. Naturally salty, it is rather a shame that it is hardly ever harvested these days as I believe it makes a wonderful pickle.

Another highlight of the day were the fields of blood red poppies, sometimes mixed with other wild flowers of many colours. One field, in particular, which I only got to photograph from a distance, looked incredibly like an artist’s palette. Seeing these fields of flowers raised my excitement level to its maximum… wonderful!

A day excursion during my first visit to Lemnos in 2010 included what was then the ghost village of Palaio Pedino. After a major earthquake in 1968, it had been mostly abandoned by the then inhabitants. Over the past 9 years much has changed with the wealthy moving in and restoring some of the homes, mainly to rent them out on Airbnb. The purpose of our visit yesterday was to raid the mulberry trees… filled our tummies and bought a bag full home. Our other sweet delight was a lemon liqueur made by Maria, a friend of Themis whom we visited. Elsewhere our thirst quenched with water from one of the many natural springs on the island.

Started our day as the only pilgrims to Panagia Kakaviotissa. Finished our day as the only patrons at a Taverna in a nearby village where I befriended and fed cheese to a beautiful grey cat.

Unforgettable!

On Tuesday morning I woke to the sound of the dawn chorus, gusty winds and decidedly warmer temperatures. An unexpected feeling of sadness though as the bus pulled out of Anogeia. I felt so much at home there and was blessed with beautiful sunny days in which to explore and soak up the atmosphere. Perhaps in the winter months I would feel differently… not so flash coping with the cold.

The old men and shepherds sitting in the Kafeneia, the women selling their handicrafts, the musical culture and small things to amuse small minds, like the high percentage of vehicles in the village bearing no registration plates. I guess one can get away with such practices when living remotely. The small utilities and vans driving slowly through the village with a loud speaker advertising their wares for sale… literally everything from plants, fruit and vegetables, clothing and footwear to hardware.

A full day of travelling lay ahead. Once arriving in Heraklion, a second bus to the airport… finding out where to catch it and actually getting there, a story in itself. Oh the joys of travel! Eventually my flight to Athens, another lengthy wait then a second flight to Lemnos, my final destination. It was quite late when I arrived by taxi to a very warm welcome at Themis and Anna’s home which is located on the slopes of the ancient Kastro in Myrina. That evening we had a wonderful meal out… a lovely start to my week on Lemnos.

I first visited Lemnos back in 2010. On that occasion I arrived by ferry, expecting to find several accommodation proprietors touting for business, which wasn’t the case. However, there was Themis in his little old jalopy of a car, offering a room at a very good rate. I took up the offer and Anna and I have been great friends ever since.

Yesterday the weather wasn’t the best but I had a good walk around Myrina, did some shopping and as the sun was setting, we girls ventured out for a walk around the bay. Today has been stunning, encouraging us once again to walk… this time to the village of Plati where Themis joined us for a drink in the little Square. By the time we had walked back to Myrina, we were starving. Lunch followed by the customary siesta… life isn’t too bad.

Tomorrow we have arranged for a hire car and Themis will drive us to places around the island… very much looking forward to what should be a memorable day.

Bearing in mind it is not yet summer here in Greece and Anoyeia is located at an altitude of approximately 750m above sea level, the nights are still rather chilly. Being aware that there was a cultural event taking place on Saturday evening in the Square, right opposite my accommodation, I donned my warmest clothes and went to check it out.

Performances included a choir of young people, singers and various dancers… the latter I enjoyed most of all. Sadly, the cold weather got the better of me, forcing an early return to my room, frozen to the bone! I will admit to sleeping in all my clothes, including a hoodie on my head… must have looked a sight!

In the morning my feet were still cold but nothing a nice hot shower wouldn’t fix. Then out to explore more corners of the village and of course, back to Cafe Michalos for lunch. Having no wish to feel so cold again, last night I stayed in but could easily hear the music reverberating from the Square… another night of celebration, including fireworks around 11.00pm. I went to sleep listening to the wonderful Cretan music… no base going thud, thud through my pillow.

Today is my last in Anogeia. Started out soaking up the sun in the Square, with a large Greek coffee made exactly to my liking. Moved on to Cafe Michalos for lunch, ate far too much and felt extremely lethargic and lazy about moving on. Sat for the greater part of the afternoon people gazing. From time to time, tourist groups arriving and moving on almost as quickly as they came. Many French among them, the one nationality who seem to despise speaking any other language. It is not unusual for establishment owners to call on me to assist with translating, however, as is often the case, the patrons are French and speak neither Greek nor English so I’m of very little help.

Tomorrow I leave Anogeia on the 10.00am bus to Heraklion with a flight to catch in the afternoon, via Athens to the island of Lemnos in the northern part of the Aegean Sea. Scheduled to arrive there at 7.45pm so pretty much a full day travelling. Why would I fly you might ask and not catch a ferry? Well, the reality is a ferry leaving Piraeus, port of Athens at 4.00pm tomorrow doesn’t arrive in Lemnos until 3.15pm the next day… 8 stops on the way, 23 1/4 hours travelling and costing 60 Euro. I’m flying from Crete to Lemnos via Athens for just 77 Euro… a no brainer really!

I left my accommodation in Rethymno around 11.00am yesterday. With 3 hours to wait for my bus to Anogeia, walked to Cafe Galero next to the Rimondi fountain. A great place to pass the time people watching… enjoying a club sandwich with fries and a beer.

Approximately 2 hours for the bus trip to Anogeia, a traditional Cretan village located some 750m up on the north face of Mt Psiloritis, the highest mountain of Crete. Anogeia has two aspects… old Anogeia is the lower part, I’m staying in the upper part.

Anogeia has a history that is powerful and tragic… burned by the Turks in 1822 and again in 1867, then by the Germans in 1944 as reprisal for kidnapping German General Kreipe. The Germans also rounded up and shot all the men they could find in the village and within one kilometer.

There is everything to love about this village. The air is mountain fresh, the locals are warm and hospitable. Last evening after exploring the upper area of the village, made my way down to Perahori Square. Fans of the legendary singer and composer Nikos Xylouris (known as the Archangel of Crete) will know Anogeia is his birthplace. Sadly, Xylouris died in 1980 aged 44. His house in Perahori Square is now a small museum and open to all… I visited there yesterday and will go back again before I leave.

Also located in the Square is Cafe Michalos… my chosen venue for every time I wish to eat and/or drink during my stay in Anogeia. Sat there last night with a 1/4L of the house red wine and a plate of meze… a predominantly male domain, of course, the men mainly dressed in black, many wearing the traditional clothes. I absolutely love hearing the old dialect still spoken here… the only other sounds being the clicking of worry beads, “a viva” as the tsikoudia (raki) is about to go down and the wonderful music of Xylouris playing in the background.

On my return to upper Anogeia, met up with Aristea (Yiayia – grandmother) from my accommodation. Aristea had told me earlier in the evening that she would be going out to a celebration. There were people everywhere and a very long table laden with food. I think, but I’m not 100% sure, that it was put on by the political party Nea Democratia. Yiayia insisted that I return to my room with a plate of food.

This morning after more exploring, I returned to Cafe Michalos for my morning Greek coffee. Later a good hike up to a small church high above and overlooking the village. With my current left hand disability shall we say, I needed an able bodied person to open and close gates on the way. I approached a couple from France and we made the ascent and descent together.

For me, it was then back to Cafe Michalos for a late lunch… lovely Greek salad, potatoes cooked in the oven with lemon and oil, toasted bread and a beer.

I’m not long up from a 3 hour siesta… it is a Greek tradition. I know there is going to be something happening in the village tonight and I want to be a part of it.

Up yesterday before the crack of dawn and on my way to the bus station by 6.30am. I had purchased my tickets the day before and assumed the bus would depart from the Ktel Bus Station. Fortunately, just before 7.00am I thought to ask which bus would take me to Maroulas, to be told I needed to flag it down at the stop on the road up above us! I made it in time and we arrived in Maroulas 20 minutes later.

From my research online, the best description of the historical village of Maroulas I can find says it is a real time machine that takes you back to the Middle Ages, Renaissance and the Ottoman Empire, with many stops in the middle and countless lost memories.

The story of Maroulas probably starts somewhere in the Minoan Period. The remains of the Minoan settlement have been lost and the only proof that the Minoans were there is the Minoan cemetery just 700m west of the village. They say one thing is for certain: there was a settlement before the Venetian period and specifically from the second Byzantine period and on. Along with the Venetians came the towers, palaces, army barracks and wine press factories. The Ottomans bought an Eastern touch to the architecture and naturally it all meddled up with the elements of Cretan tradition.

My main reason for making the journey was to visit Marianna’s Workshop. A lady after my own heart, Marianna… born in Athens, educated in Paris, for the past 20 years, living in Maroulas, collecting all the aromatic medicinal herbs from the mountains, preparing teas, oils and creams. For me, her lifestyle is enviable!

I visited Marianna’s Workshop, made some purchases and had an amazing time exploring every corner of the village. I had wanted to eat and drink at Armos Restaurant, however, I walked the 400m up to where they are situated, only to find the gate locked. Yes, it was only 10.15am but when they advertise open from 10.00am, I would expect that to be the case, so it was a disappointment. However, walking back into the village, I came upon a shepherd herding his flock of sheep… I do love the sound of their bells ringing. I quickly snapped a couple of photos then thought to switch to video, including capturing the one wee lamb coming up the rear. I have posted the video on my Facebook Profile page as a measure to perhaps encourage more people to Like and visit my It Is All Greek 2 Me page and website.

Ultimately, late morning I walked into Taverna Katerina, announcing I was hungry. What would you like to eat and drink they asked? I said I would be happy with a Greek salad, French fries and a beer. I was served a wonderful salad of tomato, cucumber, lettuce, red onion, olives, walnuts, pomegranate seeds, cheese and croutons. With Taverna Katerina’s high position facing the sea, lovely people and delicious food, I managed to kill a couple of hours there.

Returned to Rethymno on the 1445 hours bus… the only passenger. It was a memorable day. Today I move on to the very traditional Cretan village of Anogeia for a 4 night stay.

I left Chania yesterday following a very brief stay. In the morning, managed to check out the Farmers’ Market, locally known as “Laiki Agora” which literally means the People’s Market. These markets are very common all over Greece, mostly weekly and sell fruit, vegetables, fish, flowers, cheese, olives etc.

I had received via email, very clear instructions on how to get from the bus station to my accommodation at KATRINA HOUSE in Rethymno, where I have a standard Ground Floor Studio… good value for money, comfy bed and location, location, location! In the Old Town close to everything, however, tucked away in a quiet corner.

Venturing out in the afternoon to explore many of the narrow streets and alleys, I also visited the Venetian Harbour and Fortezza Fortress which towers over the city. It was built in the 16th Century by the Venetians who occupied Crete (1204 – 1669) in order to protect its citizens from Ottoman invasions. There was a lady feeding the stray cats and I spoke with her. She said there are currently 24 resident within the Fortezza Fortress and she feeds them every day… God bless!

In the evening I dined out at a restaurant called To Parastratima. Located behind the Rimondi fountain, it came highly recommended in Trip Advisor reviews and I wasn’t disappointed.

Early to bed knowing I had an early start this morning… set my alarm for 5.30am in order to catch the 7.00am bus to Maroulas. Another Blog about today will follow.