Itisallgreek2me

Friday 28 June-Sunday 30 June 2024

Once again, on Friday, I enjoyed my time at Agia Marina Beach. My last opportunity for a dip in the warm waters of the Aegean Sea and to soak up the sunbeams.

Saturday morning at 1120 hours, the AERO 2 HIGHSPEED whisked me away from the island, back to the chaos of Piraeus. Walked to the Metro Station to catch the train into central Athens, getting off at Evangelismos, about 800m from the Zappion Hotel where I stayed overnight. In order to sort out what to check in and what to carry on, unpacked and repacked everything. I only ventured out to eat before a very early night.

Late on Sunday morning, my very good friend Helen, who lives in Athens, came and picked me up from the hotel. It had been 5 years since our last get-together, and we spent the day having an awesome catchup at her home until she dropped me off to take the Metro to Athens Airport. From the time I left my hotel in Athens on Sunday morning, until I arrived at my home in Whanganui on Tuesday afternoon, I had been on the move for 44 hours 🙃

I know many people have enjoyed following my journey. Since 1973, a big part of my life has been spent in Greece. This was just the latest chapter. THANK YOU, GREECE, AND FAREWELL. 🇬🇷💙❤️

Tuesday 25 June-Thursday 27 June 2024

Getting to Agia Marina, Aegina, was no mean feat. In fact, it took 24 hours from checkout on Schinoussa until checking in at Agia Marina. The most trying time was the 6+ hours in Piraeus. The initial 2 hours were in darkness, and the entire time, I felt I needed to have eyes in the back of my head. After a coffee, food, and locating a toilet, I went to sit at Gate E8, under the shelter provided for waiting passengers. In recent years, such places have become refuges for the homeless, who were all in various stages of waking when I arrived. There was one woman who stood out. I could see that she was doing her best to maintain dignity. Later in the morning, amidst the bustling crowd, she sat there and plucked the hairs from her chin and eyebrows before getting out scissors to trim the hairs in her nose.

As the morning went on, the hawkers… mainly African and Indian, with their persistent ways, kept coming up to me. The beggars, too, were doing their rounds. With the temperature rising, I tried to remain relaxed, watching the world go by. From the grossly obese to the incredibly thin and everything in between. Something else I noticed that I have rarely seen since the 1970’s/80’s was a large number of braless women. I wonder, is this a new trend in Europe?

So here I am on Aegina, the very first Greek island I ever visited back in 1973. I chose to come here, mainly because of its close proximity to Athens. In the event of a strike by ferry workers, I would hope to find some other way of getting to the mainland. In any case, I’ll return to Athens on Saturday for an overnight stay, with my imminent departure from Greece scheduled for late Sunday evening.

We’re into the next heatwave with every day, the temperature here rising to around 35°C. That has meant early rises with my inclusive breakfast delivered to my room around 0830 hours. Mornings spent at the beach, which isn’t anything spectacular, but I have been able to find myself a spot under the trees beyond the crowds who favour sunbeds and umbrellas. Afternoons have been wisely spent enjoying a siesta, venturing out again in the ever so slightly cooler evening.

Thursday was very special as I took the 0900 hours MAGIC 1 Sea Ferry to the island of Hydra for the day, arriving back in Agia Marina at 1840 hours. During the years that I spent a great deal of time on nearby Spetses, I became quite familiar with Hydra, and as there was a special same day return fare on offer, I thought it would be great to go and do a little shopping. Unfortunately, the shops in Agia Marina mainly offer tacky, souvenir type shite. There are souvenir shops on Hydra too, but also upmarket boutique style. Jeff Bezos and his fiancé recently visited Hydra on his $500m yacht. They will have kissed goodbye to a far greater amount of Euro than this intrepid traveller.

Friday 21 June-Monday 24 June 2024

Friday, and another beach day lay ahead. I did consider one of the many beaches on the southern coast of Schinoussa. However, with the scorching heat, I decided to revisit nearby Gerolimnionas, and I wasn’t disappointed.

As I was leaving Hárama, I noticed Glistrída (purslane) growing in pots. This is a herbacious plant with many health benefits. In NZ, we treat it as an annoying weed. In Greece, it is added to salads and many other dishes.

Again, at Gerolimnionas, when not sitting in the shade of the rock, if I wasn’t in the sea, then I was mostly walking the beach, looking for Sea Glass. I picked up considerably more pieces than the day before, but overall, tiny. I plan to create a piece of art with only the glass I have collected from this stunning beach.

That evening, I dined at Hárama.  Imám… an oven baked vegetarian dish with eggplant as the main ingredient and topped with cheese. It was served with delicious crusty bread. It was a very generous portion, and to be perfectly honest, it was the best Imám I have ever tasted.

Preloading before going out definitely helps the budget. I enjoyed an ouzo as I was getting ready, and then, after dinner, I sat out on my terrace and had another. Above me, an almost full moon… just hours away on 22 June at 4.07am.

Saturday I spent in a similar way to Friday. The only difference being, I returned to Psilí Ámmos beach and found just 4 pieces of Sea Glass, and there was no full moon to light the night sky.

Sunday, my day for once again, moving on. I was grateful for being able to secure my room until midday and then leave my luggage at the restaurant. I headed off to walk to Chora. A young Greek guy stopped and offered me a lift. He was from Boston, but his father was from Schinoussa.

I left that evening at 2040 hours on the Blue Star NAXOS, arriving at the Port of Piraeus early. To be exact, 0417 hours, Monday morning. Believe it or not, on the big ferries, I always have a problem with the aircon. I find it much too cold. In complete contrast, by 1040 hours, when I left Piraeus on the AERO 3 HIGHSPEED for the 30-minute trip to Agia Marina, Aegina, the temperature had climbed to 31°C.

It was a long afternoon/night/morning. When I ventured out mid afternoon for water and something to eat, the thermometer was sitting on 35°C 🔥 Although Agia Marina is more touristy than where I would normally choose to go, I like what I have seen so far of the town. There are loads of restaurants and shops and the beach is nearby. It is my last week in Greece so I have shopping to do. I will fit in as much beach as I possibly can because on Sunday evening, I will begin my long journey back home to New Zealand.

 

Tuesday 18 June-Thursday 20 June 2024

I am happy to have had my brief stay on Naxos, which really came about because of ferry schedules. 2 years ago, while staying on Koufoníssia, I visited nearby Schinoussa for a day and vowed I would return sometime for a longer stay. These two islands form part of the Lesser Cyclades or Small Cyclades group.

The f/b Blue Star NAXOS, due to depart Naxos at 1210 hours, was running late, which is quite unusual. Waiting to board, I got chatting to a lovely family from Queenstown, New Zealand, who are travelling for a year. They were heading to Amorgos, then Kalymnos, the latter well known to rock climbers, and that is something the dad likes to do. The two children, Oscar and his 8 year old sister Asha, were absolutely delightful. They’re having such an amazing adventure.

Travel time from Naxos to Schinoussa was just 1h 20m. On arrival, I was picked up and driven to Harama Guesthouse, my home for 5 nights, close to three northern beaches. Although still extremely warm, late afternoon, I made the 20-minute walk  to the main village of Chora and returned. Thankfully, there is an excellent restaurant at Harama, where that evening I enjoyed Kounéli Kokkinistó (rabbit in red sauce).

Wednesday morning, I left my room quite early to walk the 1km to Psilí Ámmos (fine sand) beach via Mesariá. A small settlement of maybe 8 houses, a church, and a restaurant, To Petrino, where I returned for dinner that evening.  Shortly after my arrival at the beach, an emergency alert came through on my phone. A wildfire had broken out somewhere on Naxos, and of course, I was there until yesterday. It is still only June, with the hottest months of July and August still to come, which must be worrying the authorities.

Sun, sea, and sand. Is it possible to have too much of a good thing? Yes, I believe it is, so after around 4 hours at the beach, I returned to my room for a siesta.  

On Thursday morning, I set out to walk to Fikio beach. Unsurprisingly, it was deserted. Probably because of the presence of seaweed in the water and on the beach. So, I set off again and walked to Gerolimnionas beach. Where the road ends, there is no clear path down to the beach, but it is so worth the journey. OMG… absolutely stunning! When I first arrived, I had it all to myself, and then Eddie, a guy from the UK, appeared from another route down the hill. Eddie is quite well travelled in Greece, although not as much as me. We got on well, and I enjoyed his company. During my time there, a handful of other people came and went. Mainly, nudists, but I have no problem with that. By the time I arrived back at Harama, I figured I’d earned a Kaiser 🍺

That evening, I waited until the sun was going down before walking to Chora. Picked up a few more provisions and then had dinner at Októ Adélphia, another very good restaurant. However, I’ve become so accustomed to peace and quiet that I found the music and level of conversation there was almost too much for me. Once away from the village, I was happy, a solitary figure walking in the darkness by the light of almost a full moon, back to my room.

Sunday 16 June-Monday 17 June 2024

Talk about a lazy Sunday. I had nothing in particular to do whilst waiting for BLUE STAR 1’s departure at 2130 hours. I very much wanted to break my rule that is not to buy anything to take home until the final week of my trip. I was in quest of a hand knocker such as you see on many of the doors in Ermoupoli. Perhaps a replica as I imagine an original, which could be as old as 150 years, if for sale, would cost a pretty penny. Unfortunately, I found nothing like that for sale.

Anywhere there was shade, I sat for a while and watched the world go by. Walking the streets, I came across the Holy Cathedral Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour Christ. The fifth magnificent church I have seen on Syros.

Arriving on Naxos shortly after midnight, I then made the 20-minute walk to my apartment. The time of my arrival being no deterrent to my host Marios meeting me there. Two clear instructions about my stay… no putting paper in the toilet bowl. That goes without saying all over Greece. The plumbing pipes are too narrow to cope with anything other than human waste. A bin is always provided for the paper. The other instruction surprised me… no drinking the tap water. It is only for washing. Of course, I always buy bottled water for drinking, but normally, I would use the tap water in the kettle. On Naxos, this is a no, no.

I have been to Naxos on countless occasions en route to other islands. However, I can not recall ever staying here until now. Although I only had 36 hours, I had such a fabulous time. Exploring the area of the Venetian Castle, the Portara, the alleyways, the harbour, by day and around sunset. The Chora, Naxos is such a vibrant, bustling town, but at the same time, it feels relaxed and stress free. It’s a really fun place to be and highly recommended.

Wednesday 12 June-Saturday 15 June 2024

Exactly as planned, Wednesday was a carbon copy of Tuesday. Rest and relaxation at Kerame Hotel. By the pool, on my terrace, or in my room.

Every day became hotter than the day before. Thursday morning, I had a small quantity of ouzo left in a bottle. I decided to drink it in the hopes that it would give me the courage needed to make the walk back to the village. I believe it did help. A long, hot wait lay ahead through the afternoon, Blue Star MYCONOS not departing until 1820 hours, my destination Syros. In the meantime, I swear to God I almost melted 🥵🥵🥵

Already familiar with the way up to my lodgings was particularly helpful when arriving after dark. Dimitrios had messaged me to say my room key would be in the door. It was midnight before I got into bed.

Except for airfares, accommodation, ferries, and insurance, I try to keep within a budget of 25 Euro, say NZ$45 per day. That has to cover my phone, transport, food, entertainment, sightseeing, etc.

Friday morning, I went shopping. 3L Water, Ouzo, Rizógalo (rice pudding) x 3, Bananas x 3, Spanakópita… with parmesan (spinach pie) x 2. A large container of Spanakórizo (spinach rice) and another container of Yemistá (stuffed vegetables and potatoes). Enough to keep me happily fed and watered for at least 3 days. Total cost 26.50 Euro.

Later that day, I ventured out for an amble through the streets and alleyways. It is one of my favourite pastimes in Greece, especially in Ermoupoli, where there is such a diverse range of fascinating architecture.

With the worst of the blistering heat over for now, on Saturday, I decided to catch the first bus of the day to the small fishing village of Kini. 5 years ago, I spent 2 weeks there before moving on to Ermoupoli. I enjoyed a lovely walkabout before setting myself up for the best part of the day, semi shaded under a beach umbrella. The sun was out, and the sea had warmed to a very pleasant temperature.

Of the countless number of Greek islands I have been to over the past 50+ years, I have to say Syros would have to be one of my favourites.

Saturday 8 June-Tuesday 11 June 2024

Allowing plenty of time to catch the ferry Blue Star MYCONOS at 1110 hours, I left my room around 1000 hours to walk down to the Port of Syros. Another hot day, but with a very welcome breeze, I settled in on the top deck for the 3h 10m journey via Mykonos to Evdilos, Ikaria.

One of 5 Blue Zones in the world, a place where the environment is conducive to old age, on Ikaria residents are several times more likely to reach 90+ compared to normal. The secrets to giving Ikarians a chance of a long and healthy life are a combination of factors, including diet, social life, and exercise.

Little or no stress, maintaining a home vegetable garden, looking out over the bright blue Aegean Sea, walking in nature, picking and eating fresh fruits, vegetables, and nuts, drinking wine with your friends and family, sleeping well and taking an afternoon siesta.

The first time I came to Ikaria was in 2010, and I stayed in Agios Kirikos on the south coast. This time, I am staying just outside the picturesque village of Evdilos in the north. My hosts don’t offer pickup from the Port. I considered a taxi, but you are best to pre-book, and I hadn’t done that. So I walked the 1.6km to my hotel in searing heat, arriving looking and feeling a little worse for wear.

After a very early night, Sunday morning, I was up before sunrise and out to begin exploring. I made the walk back to Evdilos, along the way enjoying the incredible scent of various aromatic wild herbs growing by the roadside. I strolled around the harbour, up steps, and through the narrow lanes of this traditional village built upon a small hill. Very noticeable were the vegetable gardens on terraces, in fact, wherever space will allow. I came across an apricot tree roadside, where the fruit was rotting on the ground. I filled my tummy and my bag with whatever fruit I could reach from the tree. Sweet and honey like, I have never tasted better.

The facilities at Kerame Hotel, where I am staying, include a swimming pool. The location offers stunning views of the surrounding countryside, mountains, and the sea. It was a perfect haven for relaxing after all the walking earlier in the day.

After breakfast on Monday, I went to see up close the little nearby church of Ágios Ioánnis then carried on to Kerame beach. It being a pebble beach, I thought I might find some sea glass, but I only found three small pieces. I made use of some old sunbeds that were there and had a swim in the sea.

Bearing in mind that a heatwave is expected to “toast” the country over the next four days, Evdilos may reach temperatures of up to 38°C. For that reason, late afternoon Monday, I walked to the village, had dinner, and returned to my hotel with enough food to last me until I leave on Thursday. I had not realized that the summer bus timetable wouldn’t be operating, and you really need a hire car to go exploring.

Today has been one of complete rest and relaxation. My time spent either at the pool, on my terrace, or in my room. I plan to spend tomorrow in much the same way.

Thursday 6 June-Friday 7 June 2024

What a difference a day can make when you’ve been able to sleep in a bed… actually, sleep at all!

Since my mishap in Kastéli, when the ATM swallowed up my CashPassport Card, I have been reluctant to make an attempt to withdraw cash. However, yesterday morning, I decided to give it a go during the bank’s opening hours. Woohoo… I made a withdrawal without incident.

When I was in Ermoupoli 5 years ago, I discovered ‘To Kastri”, a restaurant offering dine in or takeaway and run by a local women’s co-operative. They make the most delicious, authentic Greek dishes from local ingredients, using recipes handed down from their grandmothers. I went there and bought a half portion of broccoli and Pastitsio… a pasta dish with mince meat and béchamel sauce, enough for 3 meals, all for 10 Euro.

It was another extremely hot day, but in the afternoon, I was determined to walk up the zillions of steps to the top of Vrodados hill to the Anástasis (Church of the Resurrection of Christ), disappointed to find it closed. From there, looking over to the neighboring hill of Ano Syros and the Catholic Cathedral of St George, I remembered the beautiful atmosphere of that hilltop village, and so I set off to descend and then climb some more. Built around 1200 AD, this Venetian settlement was designed amphitheaterically to protect it from enemies. Finding the cathedral open made it well worth the journey, and I rewarded myself with a cold beer overlooking Ermoupoli. The arrival and departure of a Champion Jet reminding me that I had hoped to be meeting and greeting my good friend Anna from Montreal that day. Disappointingly, she was unable to find a way of moving on from Syros to Lemnos, and so had to cancel.

Today, I have been grateful for the slightly lower temperature, aided by a refreshing breeze. I have walked the footpaths, steps, and streets in Ermoupoli, most of which are made of marble. Enjoyed the best ever Spanakópita (spinach pie) from Ntanos Bakery as I sat on a bench in Miaouli Square, admiring the Town Hall. Designed by Ernst Ziller, building began in 1876 and wasn’t completed until 1898. Then a quick stop at the magnificent Apollon Theater before walking on to the beautiful Church of Agios Nikolaos.

Nearby, with its neoclassical mansions, is the picturesque neighbourhood of Vaporia. There is no actual beach in Ermoupoli, but you can walk down steps here to where people go to swim and sunbathe in an area adjacent to the sea. Just as I was reading a sign warning bathers of the potential for big waves, it happened, and everyone scrambled to reach higher ground. It was then I decided to forgo the idea of sunbathing today, settling instead for a rather expensive 7 Euro Stella Artois at a seafront establishment.

Tonight, I have packed and organized myself as best I can, ready for tomorrow mornings departure to the island of Ikaria. One of the Blue Zones of the world, it is a place where the environment is conducive to old age. In 2010, I stayed in Agios Kirykos on the south coast. This time, I will be in Evdilos on the north coast.

Tuesday 4 June-Wednesday 5 June 2024

Yet again, thanks to a change in ferry scheduling, Tuesday became another grueling day of travelling in temperatures reaching 32°C. Leaving Roulas Apartments around 0830 hours, I caught the 0915 hours ferry DODEKANISOS EXPRESS to Kos, via Tilos and Nisyros, a pleasant enough 2h 20m journey.  

Kos is definitely not an island I would visit by choice. Too big, too busy, too touristy. Sorry, Kos fans, the island doss nothing for me. However, I had no choice but to spend 9h 20m there, awaiting my ferry connection. For 3 Euro, I left my trolley case at the Blue Star Ferries office before setting out to visit Neratzia Castle. Alas, it was temporarily closed for restoration. Moved on to the Ancient Agora… closed Tuesdays. Damn… I headed back to the harbour, spending a prolonged amount of time over a beer at Blues Brothers and enjoying the music, eventually leaving to eat something.

How to kill time when it is really too hot for anything? Somehow, I was drawn into Almanac Cafe Bar. The loveliest people, they allowed me to sit inside where it was cooler for 3-4 hours. Charged my phone and slowly sipped green tea with honey. 

I felt such a sense of relief when, at 2055 hours, the ferry Blue Star 2 departed Kos. First stop Leros, then Patmos. Finally arriving at my destination, Syros at 0410 hours, I was completely knackered. With the help of Mrs Google, somehow, in the dark, I made it up several flights of steps to my booked accommodation, who prior had agreed that I could drop off my luggage early. My host has said, “OK, I wait you.” I rang the doorbell, obviously waking up the disheveled woman who met me at the door, took my case, but wouldn’t let me inside. She said they’d contact me when my room was available.

Other than me and the local cat population, there was no life on the streets at that hour. Eventually, I found a Diner/Burger type joint open by Miaouli Square where I was able to sit awhile, sipping a double cappuccino. Used their facilities before wandering off to find a bench where I could rest. Couldn’t believe my eyes as I watched a cheetah like street cat stalk a flock of pigeons, then accelerate and chase, leaving with a pigeon held firmly in his jaw. The flock stood still and silent for some time, as if in a state of shock.

When I first visited Ermoupoli 5 years ago, I loved it, and I love it now. Tired as I was, I couldn’t resist an early stroll through the center of town, ending up in Plaza Cafe, which overlooks the harbour. I was there when the message came through that my room would be available at 1030 hours. 26 hours since I left my apartment on Chalki and no sleep. The day was becoming hotter by the minute. Took my time navigating my way back up to my room. Showered, settled in, and went to bed around midday.

There’s nothing worse than when you are so over tired, you can not sleep. That is precisely what happened to me today. I managed a couple of hours and then, at best, only dozing. I needed to eat something but didn’t feel much like getting ready to go out for a meal. Fortunately, I found O Gýros tou Kósmo Online, only 160m from my room. I walked there for a Kotópoulo Gýros takeaway. OMG… so big and delicious, I have half  in the fridge for tomorrow and only 5.50 Euro. Tomorrow, I should be ready to face a new dawn.

Saturday 1 June-Monday 3 June 2024

Kaló Mína… Good Month. The traditional greeting in Greece on the first day of a new month. Geeez… here I am past the halfway mark of this trip galavanting around Greece.

Saturday was yet another day in paradise, the temperature slowly creeping upwards with each day that passes. I returned to Ftenagia beach, stopping on the way to light a candle in the tiny wee church of Agía Aikateríni… St Catherine. My thoughts and feelings reaching out to all those dear to me. Otherwise, just another day of sun and sea, interrupted only by the need to eat something. I did have thoughts of venturing out in the evening for an ouzo and meze, but nothing eventuated.

I begin every day here with breakfast on my terrace. Greek yogurt and a fresh peach or banana, drizzled with delicious thyme honey. Sunday morning, it was a little overcast but extremely hot, as I went on a walkabout around town. I spoke with Mihalis, capitainios of the water taxi to Kania beach. He said he remembered me, but I’m not sure about that. He certainly knows my friends Mandy and Curly. Eventually, I sat down at Apostolis Cafe Bar for a cold beer and a club sandwich, returning to my apartment for an afternoon of R and R.

That evening, around 1915 hours, I ventured out, back to Apostolis Cafe Bar, for an ouzo with meze. I couldn’t believe that it was almost a full house, then I realized there was a quiz night in progress for the English speaking. One of their questions was… how many stars on the New Zealand flag? 🤣 After dark, a stroll around the harbour before returning to my apartment for an ouzo nightcap on the terrace. 2130 hours and still 23°C and not a breath of wind.

I’ve enjoyed the last full day of my stay here on Chalki, relaxing on my terrace, catching up with washing and self-catering in the apartment. Thanks to another ferry schedule change, tomorrow will be another long day and night travelling on to Syros. I would be very happy to linger longer on Chalki. However, my schedule dictates otherwise.